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[rider7]

Brian,


Thanks for your reply on that.
I thought so.
Energy consumption is governed by energy demanded or output no matter how it is throttled.
Either electronically or mechanically well and then still electronically by my brain 


I was't sure if the algorithm has some other energy saving tricks involved, but couldn't think of any, since the only energy consuming items are speed and acceleration demand from the throttle.


It literally makes eco or sport mode redundant for me than.


I like my brain being my only governor then, and it's good to know that I don't have to bother switching to achieve anything I cannot produce manually.


Thanks again.


Rider7

[Rogercoulter]

I'm also unable to save my custom settings. Hoping that firmware upgrade tomorrow will fix it.  I gather they can also set the custom settings when they're directly connected to the bike.  Does anyone know what the settings are for the Eco and sport modes?  If I've only got one chance to set teh custom numbers, it'd be nice to know what the Eco and Sport modes do as a frame.

[Tony]

I have my top speed set to the max speed I can travel on the highway during my commute without getting a speeding ticket. It's like having a cruise control. I'm always in sport mode unless I am doing this or I need to conserve battery to make it to my destination.

What if you get in a situation where you have to go past this speed to get out of a dangerous situation? Like you are passing a car that suddenly starts to accelerate while you are next to it, then another car shows up coming towards you and the gap behind you got closed by someone else who also wants to pass... These kind of situations are rare, and I realize you are usually on the highway and might not have to consider meeting traffic like in this example, but incidents requiring more speed for safety reasons can happen. I would be careful limiting the top speed like that...

[hubert]

incidents requiring more speed for safety reasons can happen

This is the typical saying of all drivers/riders who never have enough power and want to show a "rational/socially acceptable" explanation for their need.

More power/speed might help get you out of a dangerous situation in which you would never have fallen if you haden't that excess of power/speed. In other words, the more you have, the more risky you drive/ride, and the more you need for trying not to die/kill.

If you set custom max speed to 130km/h, instead of 150 (sport), you will already be able to tackle or exceed the legal speed limit on most motorways in the world. Except maybe in Germany.... If you had a smaller bike topping at 110, would you feel less safe than with one that can get to 130? It's all a matter of riding style and knowing your limits and thoses of your bike.

[MrDude_1]

incidents requiring more speed for safety reasons can happen

This is the typical saying of all drivers/riders who never have enough power and want to show a "rational/socially acceptable" explanation for their need.

More power/speed might help get you out of a dangerous situation in which you would never have fallen if you haden't that excess of power/speed. In other words, the more you have, the more risky you drive/ride, and the more you need for trying not to die/kill.

If you set custom max speed to 130km/h, instead of 150 (sport), you will already be able to tackle or exceed the legal speed limit on most motorways in the world. Except maybe in Germany.... If you had a smaller bike topping at 110, would you feel less safe than with one that can get to 130? It's all a matter of riding style and knowing your limits and thoses of your bike.

you're thinking kind of stupid. Just because my last bike had 200hp, did not mean I was going faster down the road..  I was still going 65 with all the other traffic. Except when some dumbass did a hail mary across the lines of a merge, I just twisted the throttle (didnt even downshift) and he went into the spot I was in that was behind me.  I couldnt have slammed on the brakes, I would have been asspacked by the guy behind me. I couldnt change lanes completely, there was a car there... but having that additional power I just scooted out of the way. easy peasy.

I have had tons of situations where having overpowered bikes helped...and Ive also done tons of riding in the rain, some on ice/snow and never had a problem with it... The trick was hundreds of thousands of miles of experiance, a level head, and to actually work to be a better rider before you go buy the high hp bikes.

so while I wouldnt reccomend some kid go buy a high power sportbike, I can not support he blanket statement that more power is bad.

[hubert]

Kudos, you are a superman!

Me not, rather a guy who thinks that doing as well with less power and energy consumption is a matter of survival of humanity at the end. Therefore I try using the bicycle and not the Zero for daily commuting. And since nobody is perfect, when I'm late at wake-up, I choose the Zero and appreciate it. However, 200HP is the power needed for a big truck, completely overkill for a light individual means of transportation.

What I said about "more power = more risky driving", you may consider it as being stupid, but think that it is exactly what you can see in insurance rates. The more power, the more expensive your insurance plan.

Insurance companies are not stupid, they are just financial companies that calculate the risk out of road accident statistics. And compute the rates to get in any case about the same income/outcome ratio.

[Tony]

incidents requiring more speed for safety reasons can happen

This is the typical saying of all drivers/riders who never have enough power and want to show a "rational/socially acceptable" explanation for their need.

More power/speed might help get you out of a dangerous situation in which you would never have fallen if you haden't that excess of power/speed. In other words, the more you have, the more risky you drive/ride, and the more you need for trying not to die/kill.

If you set custom max speed to 130km/h, instead of 150 (sport), you will already be able to tackle or exceed the legal speed limit on most motorways in the world. Except maybe in Germany.... If you had a smaller bike topping at 110, would you feel less safe than with one that can get to 130? It's all a matter of riding style and knowing your limits and thoses of your bike.

Ok, set your bikes max speed to the speed limit of the local road as a cruise control if you think that is a good idea. I was just trying to give some friendly advice against it, and I surely have no irrational need for more power than what is necessary.

[Shadow]

Wide-Open-Throttle with the maximum speed as a cruise control I think it might waste some energy. Constant throttle less than the bike maximum speed limit setting, with throttle-off regen set to 0%, seems to be the most efficient for cruising. Speed will change with the hills and terrain and wind loading etc.

The "Cramp buster" is a very good way to avoid your throttle hand from getting tired and it helps for a smooth constant throttle. I have not tried any throttle-locking device, just the "Cramp buster" and it is good enough for me.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'll chime in to support using a real throttle control. I use a Crampbuster and an Atlas friction throttle lock, and the Crampbuster alone is good for smoothing out wrist motions to get a little better efficiency and not creep into a high speed situation. Basically you get a better feel feedback of the throttle position and it doesn't hurt that it's less strain.

An RPM or speed limit is very discomforting to me. Escaping a traffic situation on the highway seems like a critical scenario for me, and it's much more relaxing to just reduce or nearly eliminate wrist strain.

Throttle locks do have risks, but are easy to adjust while engaged if set properly. Spend $10 on a Crampbuster and you'll benefit one way or another.

[Doug S]

This would be so much more straight-forward if Zero provided an actual cruise control function. You could set your speed and maintain that without thinking about it (as opposed to a constant throttle opening), rest/move your right hand to avoid cramping, but still have full thrust available when you want it. All it would cost is a button and some firmware (and I'm an Electronics/Firmware Engineer, so don't get on me about how "firmware isn't free").

While you're at it, Zero, a very slow reverse would be quite useful too, for backing into/out of parking spots. Wouldn't even require another new button; when depressed at zero speed, the cruise control button could put you in reverse.

[togo]

BTR> I'll chime in to support using a real throttle control.

me too

Doug> While you're at it, Zero, a very slow reverse would be quite useful too, for backing into/out of parking spots. Wouldn't even require another new button; when depressed at zero speed, the cruise control button could put you in reverse.

I like that.