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Topics - Doctorbass

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
I thought it would be interesting to have a thread related to the controller that are no more the Sevcon brand  since gen 3!
 
Controller brand: SME Group (SME group has been bought by DANA/TM4 in 2019) https://www.danatm4.com/sme-group/
Controller name: Tautronic or Smartmotion AC
Controller model number: HyPer-Drive X144 (similar to this one maybe the same but with proprietary ZERO features)
interesting fact: This controller is also offered in some DIty kit from Netgain motor.

24V / 36-48V / 72-80V / 80-100V / 120-144V ?
75A– 1100A ? ( Gen3 is rated 900A phase and 82kW)
Asynchronous and Synchronous motor control?
System or Slave Softwares
Up to 50% higher power density than direct competitors
High efficiency and long life power stage – DBC (Direct Bonded Copper) patented MOSFET multilayer power module technology
Field Oriented Control algorithm optimized for asynchronous and synchronous motors
Fully customizable I/O
Easy tuning with TAUTM Software

https://www.danatm4.com/products/inverters-2/tautronic-series/



There is a great review made by LogicalBlizzard from reddit here:
from r/electronics


Some technical details he observed:
1.   Each "power module" is a half-bridge with 6 MOSFETs in parallel "per switch" (6 on the high-side, and 6 on the low-side). Each phase is then composed by 2 power modules in parallel, resulting in 12 MOSFETs in parallel "per switch". Or 24 per phase, or 72 for the whole drive. You can see those thin wires from that "internal PCB" going to each MOSFET - they are the gate and source terminals. There is also one 1Ohm resistor in series with the gate terminals as a dynamic sharing resistor.
2.   I played around with it, to check their Rds,on, and yes, one pair of pins are the gate-source terminals for the low side, and the other for the high-side. Applying 15V in one of them connects the output to one of the rails (depending if low or high-side).
3.   Yup! It is from LEM. It is a hall-effect based closed-loop current transducer. I checked it again, but couldn't find any part number. Maybe it is on the side closer to the board. I know it is from LEM because the terminals are identified as "LEM1" and "LEM2" on the PCB.
4.   Each of those two "middle terminals" is a terminal for the DC link. At the bottom of the DC link board, they split into those two rails that extend to the power modules. They are overlapping each other, so instead of going side-by-side, they are top-and-bottom. The rail on the top (imagine the DC link board seen sideways, then we can define top and bottom rails better) is the negative. It connects to those 2 raised aluminum terminals on the power boards. The rail on the bottom is the positive one, and it connects to those 3 aluminium-copper contacts on the power modules. All power modules receive both rails, and the terminal on the other side of the modules (that post-like aluminium structure) is the "AC output". The AC output of two modules of the same phase are connected together through that weird aluminium structure that resembles a bridge in the DC-link board. It leaves the drive through those three raised terminals. Since both the positive, negative and AC terminals of two power modules of the same phase are connected together, they are in parallel.
5.   That's one thing that I would love to see. However, an experienced coworker told me that these are likely manufactured by SME (now Dana/TM4) themselves. There are no part numbers nor any identifier on the modules. All I can say is they are rated for 130Vdc max, and 162.5Arms continuous output current, or 350Arms output current for 2 minutes.

I also thought that 9kHz is not only a low switching frequency, but kind of a "weird number". Why not 10kHz? Well, it is their design hahaha
These drives can work with basically all machines that lie within that range. If you want to check the full details, just Google "TM4 Tautronic AC-X1", and the first result is the drive's datasheet. Or product sheet... Even though the original design is by SME, they were bought by Dana/TM4. So it is their stuff now. This one came from a Zero motorcycle, that has an air-cooled PM machine. I hope someday you get to disassemble one of these yourself! Maybe if one of these trucks get terminally damaged, you can try and ask to open them? Yeah, but big companies are usually really restrictive on having fun...
I must admit, it is quite fun to disassemble one of these things. At least to check their hardware. All the finer and funnier details, like control and modulation, as you mentioned, unfortunately stays as a huge question mark. I don't think we will be able to get those information, even if we ask them nicely.






2
or.. I could translate : Adding a ZF7.2 Long brick to a ZF13 + powertank ZF3.3 SR 2017 !

DONE !!  and yes IT WORK and handling is still awsome!

I got a long brick with a low cell number 17 with higher internal resistance problem. it was no more usable as main battery on a ZERo but at lower power to contribute as a second power"tank" it work quite well!!

So... I removed the original BMS from the long brick and installed a aftermarket BMS from Jaibaida ( aka JBD BMS) on aliexpress that I know very well and use on all my DIY battery now. It is a 28s 100A continuous with bluetooth interface. The most complicated part was to connect it to the 40 pins 2.00mm spacing connector to monitor and and balance all the cells and also communicate with all 4 temp sensors.  I bought an adaptor for it. i even published the entire pinout of that connector. see pictures below.

I also had to build a rack for that battery on the passenger seat to be able to cary the 84 pounds and make it secure in place to avoid the battery to hit me in case of hard stop etc. I made it in wook with "L" aluminum etrusion all around it to secure in place the pack.

Now the interesting part!!

I have I think opened a new way of connecting SAFELY an additional battery to a ZERO WITHOUT the need to open the dog house ( the little box on top of the main monolith battery.  Basically what I have done is connecting that battery the same way as the powertank is done, meaning it is tied to the motor controller + and - BUT !!!  there is a contactor and a 100A fuse in serie with it. The contactor is a 100a contactor salvaged from a dead ZERO brick. I have used the coil signal from the powertank existing contactor  to pilot a the coil of small relay( used as a Buffer) that take 12V from the dc-dc  when the ZERO is powered ON or also from the chargers 12V fan supply line when the DC-Dc is OFF but the chargers are ON.  That relay take that 12V power and send it to the long brick contactor coil. I could have connected the 100a contactor coil directly to the existing coil of the powertank contactor but i was not sure the BMS could safely supply 2 contactor coil in parallel.

So.. the added long brick is only connected to the ZERo IF and WHEN the powertank contactor is ON, making that battery addition safe.  The main power harness from that battery  to connect to the bike is made fo gauge 4 and Anderson connector SB50 in a way that the total long brick internal resistance  plus the contactor resistacne and wiring resistance  is sharing the current following the same rule as ratio of capacity so all 3 battery are drained equally at the same time and there are no "circulating current" when the load vary.

Pictures comming soon!

Doc

3
After I have blown one of my 4  3.3kW chargers last years after overheating i decided it is time for adding up cooling solution!

The charger pan with 9.9kW of chargers inside  is pretty tight and have very little room for air cooling.

I have ordered an aluminum cold plate that i have installed on the bottom of the charger pan right in the middle to cover the area below all 3 chargers with it and also added thermal paste with epoxy seal around it to avoid rain to wash it all.

When I removed the broken cahrger unit I have by the same occasion cleaned everything, removing accumulated rock, sand and even insects and installed new fresh thermal paste to all 3 chargers.

The liquid cooling  system is made of a 130 PSI 12V pump that is supplyed by the 12V from all the chargers fan 12v supply that are all paralleled with serie diodes on each. there is also a overflow tank and 1/4" flexible hoses and a 120mm radiator with 12v fan that i have dissassembled to waterproof the brushless circuit.

The difference   of active cooling vs passive natural cooling is between 15 to 20Celsius which is enough to avoid the 90 Celsius that my broken charger had to deal with. The temperature i am mentioning is the highest measured using FLIR camera and high emissivity surface.

I used it now for 1 month and 4000km now and it is working like a charm!

Here is the video of a resumé of my 4000km trip last month where I explain briefely the modifications I made: ( you can autotranslate in English with the CC button)    https://youtu.be/HRD66OCjMps?si=kZgiAnnO987_8fFq

4
I just got two charge tank that i want to activate stand alone if possible .

Can anybody help me with the pinout?  I had acces to the ZERO service portal in the past and had all wirring schematics  but it is no longer existing now.




5
Buy Sell Trade / Looking for CHAIN KIT for ZERO SR
« on: March 25, 2023, 12:48:48 AM »
I am looking for a new or used chain kit for my ZERO SR 2017

Please pm me if you have one

Could be ZM10-08127 or any other

Thanks

6
Parts, Mods And Hacks / 2013 XU to 50hp FX conversion
« on: April 24, 2022, 10:32:46 AM »
Hello guys,

New project  start: converting a old 2013 Zero XU to a FX with 50hp on it.

I plan running it on 72V just like my Sur ron X and using aASI BAC8000 controller capable of 90V max and 860phase amp.

I will rewind the motor to match the 72V by reducing the number of turns per tooth of the stator and will add more strands per tooth for higher current handling. Overall it should have about the same copper fill.

That FX will still run 16" rear tire and 19" front, but the front suspension will come from an FX as well as the rear shock will be repalced by a performance FOX.

I have checked and both XU and FX seem to have the same frame ans swing arm.

More to come!

Doc

 

7
Parts, Mods And Hacks / Using Monolith battery Stand alone
« on: April 05, 2021, 08:51:23 AM »
Hello guys, Long time no posting ah haa! io know i'm too busy and it,s my fault! ::)

I recently made a video that instead of posting on FB i decided to do both and also post it here. 

I have a trip project that will require driving on a single charge at reasonable speed for 381km as this is between the 50 to 53th parallel in the north of Quebec!!

The solution: building a range extender using one of the Monolith that i have in my garage!

but as well it involve being able to use it STAND ALONE!   yes.. a bit portable 12.5kWh energy source on a single wheeled trailer! well that's my plan from now!

I made a video to show you the update:





8
Pics and Vids / Zero SR 2017 stock vs Yamaha R6 (120hp)
« on: September 04, 2018, 09:21:53 PM »
My SR 2017 Virtual racing on a  drag Dyno system against a R6 (600cc)

(Starting at 25km/h.. not from 0km/h)



Doc


9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Zero Firmware history documents
« on: March 01, 2018, 03:31:17 AM »
Can someone confirm is there is any document ( usually these are in txt file)  that explain the past firmware and the bug they correct, the things that they are supposed to improove etc?

It seem it wold be very helpfull to understand the firmware various behavior people experience with it.

Usually firmware files are in combo with a text file that enumerate all corrected bugs etc...

Doc

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Dual Sport tyres on an SR ?
« on: January 30, 2018, 02:43:29 AM »
 I'm wondering if some of you guys ever installed Dual Sport tyres on your S or SR?

I.'m planning a 2600km trip this summer and will need to cross a about 900km of gravel.

Any good recommandations?

Thanks

Doc

11
Hello guys, i made a video showing the test i made to find what current each 3.3kW units are drawing at various AC voltages

I decided to do that after i had trip some circuit breaker when using dual unit( 6.6kW total)  on some charge station that operate at 208V and not 240V. My  2 units draw  at 208V  a total of 36A  witch exceed the rated 30A max... witch cause problem with some charge station...

I also posted all the data here so you can  select witch voltage you want to know the current or even the efficiency because i also measured and calculated the DC  power output!  (I did those measurement at 52% SOC)

Enjoy! 

Doc

12
Charger pan for Diginow 3.3kW modules

Hello guys I decided to make a custom built aluminum charger skid pan for locating my  Diginow supercharger modules under the battery where the actual oem charger is.  I was inspired by Terry that one built for his 4 modules,   however the orientation of the modules make that pan to be  wider by about 2-3 inch witch is perfect for the purpose that he want about traveling, but for people that want a little more sport mode and get the Zero to keep good tilt angle i think a narrower charger pan is preferable. So i decided to build my own version.

There is numbers of  advantages of locating the Diginow charger under the bike (instead of in the tank area) .
- It allow you to get the powertank option AND ALSO be able to charger faster with the Diginow modules with minimal apparence.
- The lower CG make the bike easier to handle at low speed
- It keep the great look of the Zero instead of having your nice bike look mad max with all those strapped cahrger everywhere on your bike..
- The charger have a permanent location and dont require you to proceed to a cabling job every time you need to charge
- The Diginow modules are in a safe place protected by 3/16" thick aluminum armor


The goal is to fix these properly to the motorcycle, keep suffisent protection under the it and sink the heat on a larger surface.  I plan to relocate the SCv2 original heatsink on the side of the pan to keep adequate clearance from the ground. These heatsink can be cut in half and installed on the side of the pan. The 3/16" thick aluminum  on both sides should conduct enouhg heat to fully charge the battery without any cutout.

The pan is designed to be  capable of taking up to 3x 3.3kW modules ( 10kW) and is in aluminum 3/16" thick. It have 10.25" wide witch is about the same width as the battery.

It will bolt directly on the Zero frame in the existing screw insert ( threaded holes of the frame)

The minimum fee to get these fabricated is 200$ and at that price they can make 4 of these. That come to about 50$ each.

Because i will only need one unit, I will be offring these 3 extra  in the FOR sale section soon.

I have the full CAD drawing and .dwg, .stp and .igs files if you want these.

The only thing you need to do is to drill holes on it  to install the charger modules and to fit it under the Zero frame.

Here is the drawing of the pan alone ( i also added a drawing of the unfolded metal sheet with 3 units on it):

Pm me if you are interested.

13
Hi guys i have found great source of power supply that can directly charge at 2000W at 116V.  I MUST SHARE THAT TO YOU!

Those can be programmed like the Eltek flatpakc S 1800W and Flatpack 2 2000W but you DONT NEED TO USE 2 IN SERIE... these Eltek Valere 241115.805  can direcylt supply the FULL VOLTAGE for your Zero!

at 115$ USD+ shipping  these are a very grat find for 2000W.

You put 3 of these for about 500$ and get 6000W charging and 30A level II charging!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eltek-Valere-241115-805/172862832654?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3D2194e023a7f14f2a98e467b0bbd2e3d3%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D263201541221&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%253A491ba898-aaa3-11e7-b73a-74dbd180fd32%257Cparentrq%253Af21ac45115e0abc052957deafffaefee%257Ciid%253A1

Doc

14
For the first time i noticed that on my 2017 SR the max power i get seem reduced following a perticular curve of the Battery SOC.

It seem to start somewhere around 75% SOC and reduce progressively.

Battery max current vary according to many factors like temperature, soc and age.

However  for those who have like me a powertank witch add 25% more capacity, i wonder if that limiting curve is adjusted accordingly as there is more energy availlable total in the battery so the max amp (max power) could follow a different curve.

When the power is reduced the reason is to keep the battery at a certain voltage and not drop to much. 

In other words, is the Zero with powertank have different readjusted power curve vs the SOC to take advantage of the more energy = max power that could be sustained on a wider range of SOC?

Doc

15
For the case where the charger  are not split in few units to share all the power seperatly  it will require a J plug with single 240v with more than 30A.  ex: new ultra power charger that might come in the future.

I just wonder if someone tried to parallel the AC output of two J plug together for a single charger unit that need more than 6.6kW (30A) ?


As well i know that it might be tricky as some L2 charge station are on 208v witch mean they are on one of the 3 phase.. And sometime two  charge stations at the same area might be on different phase witch mean they can not be paralleled as both are 120 degree out of phase...

But for the case where it only require to know if the two J plug are in phase or out of phase, a simple 240V coil relay could solve the problem and auto arrange phase for making paralleling possible.

Does anyone tried that yet?

Doc

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