I fixed my kickstand sensor by putting some other Hall switch. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I think the kickstand switch has 3 wires.
- Power (5 or 12 V, can't remember) - Ground - Signal
The signal pin must be pulled down. I put a 1kohm resistor between the signal wire and my Hall switch, just to be safe.
Another option is probably to put a resistor right between signal and Ground, then it'll always be happy. Another option is to access the MBB via the UART console and deactivate the kickstand switch.
Hello, I don't remember exactly, but can't you go operational with DVT still connected? (or maybe it'll only do it at next startup, I can't remember). Very interesting you don't seem to see the input change in the I/O table, cause it should be visible. I had another friend do the same thing and it was visible I think.
I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want. Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.
Yes it has been done for the older batteries. You should be able to find some forum threads. For the newer batteries it's a lot more complicated, but I have a friend who is working on creating a small box that can interface to the BMS.
Well it's not really a problem if the radiator is broken. It's not a gas engine that'll overheat. The TCChargers have temperature protection, they'll simply turn off. (At least mine did). As doctorbass had one die from heat, it seems they don't like the heat but they definitely don't die from one time charging on a broken radiator.
very interesting work you've been doing here! I am interested in more info on how the communication works and what is actually needed. Which way do you think the communication goes on the charger attached and enable pins? Which one do you think makes the bike close the contactor?
Have you tried charging the bike fully without the CAN to the second charger? (I am wondering what voltage it will charge to)
Would be great if you could provide some more info on my questions, thanks!:)
The only thing I can add here, is that my bike (2013 S with a 2015 battery) keeps cell balance to 10-20 mV at 97 V, and only If I go lower it'll start to drift significantly. I think unfortunately at least one cell in your battery is dying..
Maybe this helps. I have also had to replace mine and couldn't find the right one. I ended up putting some hall switch (a 3 pin component) and a resistor. I don't know the exact setup but it's simple. You'll see 0 and 5V I think on two of the wires, and third one is to be pulled to ground by the switch or something.
I have a 2013 S. I use the kricket to set it to 20-30 like specified. I also have a pretty significant star-trek going on around 20 mph (not much below or above).
I tried the gates app but it does not seem to work well for me. If you don't have a kricket, I think it's reasonable to just set it to where you can rotate the belt 90° in the center between the sprockets with a moderate amount of force. Turning it 180° should be almost impossible/require very high force.