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Go spend the afternoon at your local motorcycle shop making friends and test driving gloves. Most brands that fit my hand size don't provide enough space for my long fingers. Sizing is rarely standard between models of the same manufacture. Look for gloves that have external stitching for the fingers vs an internal seam should give you a bit more room.

I am a big fan or armored gloves for track or street use. Here are a few of the options I look for when shopping for gloves:
Slider for Palm & Ulna- Normally plastic, they provide a low friction surface to reduce abrasion.
Knuckle guards - I got nailed by a rock kicked up by another rider during a track day, direct hit to the carbon knuckle guard on my Revit gloves. The impact cracked the guard but saved my finger.
Pinky strap - Ties your little finger and your ring finger together. Reduces the chance of hyperextension in a crash.

I have no personal experience with this company but it might be an option.
https://bisontrack.com/collections/gloves

I originally typed this up last week right as the forum went down. Thankfully I always copy my messages before clicking post. 

So my chain, has about 8k on it, was extensively cleaned, and re adjusted (seems to be happening fairly often now) and it has a tick in it.  I can feel it when riding, tick tick tick every time it goes around the front sprocket.

I am aware this is probably a significant wear spot, the chain has a fairly large slop span, it can get tight to the point of barely making minimum clearance of 30 mm to over 50 mm at it's loosest spot when rotating the wheel to look for the loose spot to adjust from.

Thank you for identifying your chain has tight and loose spots and setting the slack at the tightest point. That is something that a lot of people overlook. If you adjust your chain slack at a loose spot this will result in an overly tight chain for a part of it's rotation. A tight chain will put excessive loads on the wheel and motor pinion bearings that may result in their failure.

That being said having a chain that is almost twice as loose for some of it's travel can cause excessive chain slap when accelerating. This slack allows the motor to generate greater pulling force before it is able to transmit that force to the rear wheel. If you punch an object starting with your fist 1" away from it the amount of energy you can exert is minimal, the further away from the object you start the more energy you can generate.
If the force applied to your chain is greater than its tensile strength this may result in a chain failure. A chain can store a lot of energy if all that energy is released in a short period of time (snap) it can do some serious damage.

Sprockets and chains tend to wear together. The chain rollers are in contact with various parts of a sprockets teeth during normal riding. The harder you accelerate the more this load is focused onto the left side of the front sprockets teeth and the right side of the rear sprockets teeth. During constant speed riding the load is focused closer to the root of the teeth. During regen there is a load (less than during acceleration) applied to the opposite face of the teeth. This is why bikes tend to sound different when you run them in reverse.

(yes it can go a lot faster but the Ribelle does NOT have the brakes the EGO has and coming that fast into turn 1 would be a nasty issue so I gotta play nice, plus I don't want to alter my riding style TOO MUCH between bikes.
Aaron

Upgrading the front brake pads to a more race focused compound will make provide a higher coefficient of friction (more total stopping power), less fade at higher temperatures and a stronger initial bite. The pad compound (Z04) used in the calipers that are part of the corsa kit are also available for the calipers (M50) found on production Energica.
https://www.af1racing.com/br107a48639-brembo-z04-front-brake-pads-br107a48639
In addition replacing the brake fluid to a higher temperature race product will reduce front brake fade.
Brembo LCF600, Castrol SRF and Motul RBF700 all have a much higher boiling point vs the fluid used from the manufacture.

I'll probably run the go pro setup. 
Aaron

I suggest you add a ND filter to whatever setup you decide to run on the bike. ND filters reduce the amount of light available to the sensor. This gives you better control over aperture and frame rate settings. This gives you more control over focus and motion blur.
This is a video shot with a ND32 filter on a DJI action 2 camera.

Vibrations will only be a issue if the phone you are mounting has a camera with "active" image stabilization. Over time the sensitive motors and sensors used in these systems will be damaged. I had 2 iPhone 7+ replaced under warranty due to this issue.
Apple actually made an official statement regarding this issue https://support.apple.com/en-us/102175.

I suspect the non consistent vibrations coming from the road surface would have a much lower impact vs the constant high frequency vibrations of a ICE bike.
With that said using a vibration damping mount from Quadlock or Rokform won't hurt. Plus they provide a secure connection the RAM X mount does not.

Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.

Although the process of rear wheel removal on Energica bikes is the same as most every other motorcycle with a 2 sided swingarm there are things that will make the process easier.

If you have a Pitbull rear stand I can not recommend their tire wedge accessory enough.
https://www.pit-bull.com/pit-crew-tire-wedge-f0102-000
It makes reinstallation of the rear wheel so much easier. Alternatively a 10" piece or 2x4 cut at a 20-30* angle will provide a similar benefit.

I always remove the rear caliper and speed sensor first, this reduces the chance the wheel will get bound up.
After you remove the axle nut and washer the right side adjuster should be loose enough to pull off by hand. If it is not use a 13mm wrench to back the chain tension adjusters off a few turns.
Tap the axle with a soft mallet, then use the handle side to push the axle the rest of the way through the swingarm slot.
Adjust the Pitbull wedge, block of wood or use your foot to support the wheel.
Pull the axle out of the left side of the swingarm and remove the chain adjuster block.
Roll the wheel forward 1-2" allowing enough chain slack to disengage the chain from the rear sprocket. Lift the chain off the sprocket and rest it on the end of the swingarm (use a rag to protect the finish).
Roll the wheel backwards enough to clear the caliper support bracket. Remove the bracket, this provides enough clearance to slightly pivot the wheel towards the right side of the bike.
Remove the rear wheel. If you try to remove the wheel without doing this the license plate bracket will cause interference.

When it comes to installation use the same pivot procedure by in reverse. Do make sure the sprocket carrier and the wheel spacer on the right side are fully seated, if they are not the wheel will not go back in.
Once the wheel is clear of the license plate bracket reinstall the caliper bracket.
From this point on it is important to keep the wheel perpendicular to the swingarm. There are spacers on the wheel that fit perfectly into the swingarm opening, if the wheel is twisted it will bind up.
Pay special attention to the bolt heads of the rear rotor, if they are in the wrong position or if the wheel is too high or too low they will interfere with the caliper bracket.
You may need to turn the wheel slightly to allow the rotor bolts to clear the caliper bracket. This is where having something to support the wheel in position is important. Trying to support the wheel off the ground by hand and make fine adjustments can quickly lead to frustration.
Roll the wheel forward enough to allow you to reinstall the chain on the rear sprocket. Lift the chain up when you are doing this as it can get pinched between the wheel and chain guard.
Once the chain is back on the sprocket pull the wheel back slightly, reinstall the left side adjuster and verify the wheel is positioned so you can install the axle through the adjuster, swingarm and sprocket carrier.
*If your axle shaft is dry make sure to apply a thin coating of waterproof grease
Gently tap the axle into place. I normally use the palm of my hand for this, a mallet will also work. This should not require much force. If the axle is not sliding freely loosen the left chain adjuster a few turns as it may be binding.
You will need to position the caliper bracket so that it is in line with the wheel and the opening on the right side of the swingarm to allow the axle to pass through.
The tail end of the axle has 2 flats, one of these needs to index with the left chain adjuster before the axle will fully slide through.
Reinstall the right side chain adjuster washer and nut. *If the threads are dry apply some anti seize.
Adjust the chain, torque the axle nut to 70Nm, caliper bolts 25Nm, ABS sensor 8Nm

With a bit of practice you can do a rear wheel swap in ~10 minutes.
 

Oh nice! That would make my life much easier -- is there any documentation/common knowledge of the current rating (and individual vs shared?) for those?

Pages 101 & 102 will show how to remove the side panel required to get access to the fuse box and the 12v accessory connectors. You should see 2 unused 2 pin connectors labeled
 "aux" and one used to power the USB inside the trunk.

Huh, I wonder if Ego platform bikes have that, I looked into Android Auto devices a while back and was disappointed to see they all run off 12V.

There are no loose connections ready to wire up 12V accessories on the EGO. The best option is to tap into fuse #6 which powers the bikes USB port and heated grips (if installed). Alternatively power can be pulled from fuse #7 if you have a keyed ignition.

Has anyone tried to power heated gloves through this j109 plug ?
I wonder if the 12V from the J109 is available without the heated glove option?

J-109a will not output 12V unless it is enabled in software.
Fuse #6 (10A) provides power to both the USB port and the factory heated grips. You can tap into this 12V supply to power 3rd party grips.

Bleach for the Disinfection aspect?  There are other disinfectants that might work, I'd think, bleach would tear up the leather Id be afraid, even a cup to a gallon is a LOT.

I only suggested bleach as it is a radially available chemical that can kill both bacteria and mold spores. To minimize the chance at damaging the leather try a weaker solution, dry the gloves and if it did not work repeat with a higher concentration. 

What about an Oxygen based bleach?  Might that be milder?  (No not peroxide, that'd be a mess)

I suspect it would work similarly to chlorine based bleach.

I have some of the soap / conditioner I think it is that Dainese sells so Ill probably give them a good workup with that when I get them back from the cleaners just to make sure.

Their kit works great at getting dirt, grime and bug guts off leather gear. I don't think the cleaner is strong enough to kill mold. Also this will do little to kill anything growing on the inner cloth liner.

I have a UV disinfectant unit here, which ill use after to make sure they are disinfected.

Probably not a good idea as UV exposure is really bad for leather. If you go this route make sure you apply conditioner before and after treatment to prevent the leather from drying out.