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Messages - Electric Terry

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 47
1
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/S front brake pulsing
« on: April 26, 2021, 04:10:43 PM »
I have a 2020 SR/S.  Last year I was 100% convinced my rotors were warped bad.  It would shake with even the smallest brake pressure.  However before I tried to replace them, I took the rotors off to experiment with some carbon wheel covers that went underneath.  To my surprise the vibration went away completely.  Even after taking the carbon covers off, the pulsing is gone.  So somehow the rotors weren't warped after all.  Not sure what it was.  But it is something with mounting or the floating rivets sticking or something else that was fixed by removing the rotors and reinstalling them (without paying attention to orientation or side).  At least it was for me and it's been perfect for over 10,000 miles now.  Glad I didn't replace the rotors themselves as it wasn't the issue.

2
I was just explaining the reason I was gone for 4 years.  There wasn't anything political to discuss, just the reason I was gone as I'm sure people wanted to know.  I was worried from the very beginning that douchebag would do something exactly like he did, and I was worried about it every day.  I mean, that just the facts.  And I was sure someone was going to ask me why I haven't been here in so long, so thought it was good to explain.

3
Hey Peter, I don't usually come on here, but a friend at Zero referred this to me as they knew I've been doing testing the past year, and while SOC isn't always accurate, at least before the latest firmware, the trip wh/mile is very accurate.  But because of the way it calculates, the further you go the more accurate it becomes.   As it only divides wh consumed by distance every half mile.  So the wh/mile will tick up and up and then take a jump down.  However after 40 miles this is unnoticeable.

Although it's pretty challenging to get the same number each time, even on the same route.  The more you work on it, the better you will get.  But I would suggest doing 10 identical runs and compare the results.  However put a piece of electrical tape over the dash so you can't see the result until you get home, so you aren't tempted to adjust anything along the way second guessing that you might have done something different the first half and want to make up for it.  Just don't let yourself see it until the test is over.   But I would be willing to bet that if you do 10 runs, that your results from highest to lowest are 10% off.  And because of that it will be impossible to tell the benefit of the fairing until you can get all your runs to be within 5% of each other.  Until those results are repeatable, don't bother changing anything.

I'll give some pointers I've learned.  Use the max speed in the ride mode, and then just hold the throttle wide open the whole test until you cross the finish point.  Do a highway loop and accelerate to the max speed by turning full throttle from the side of the highway where you start the test after you have reset the trip meter.  (if you don't like accelerating fast turn the torque down in the ride mode, but accelerate to max speed the exact same each time and then hold it there until you cross the same finish point and then hit the kill switch while you coast to a stop).  Make sure wind is less than 5 knots (use windy.com), even though you will be doing a loop to negate wind.  More than 5 knots will make the headwind trip use more energy than you gain with the tail wind and your wh/mile will be higher.  Make sure the temperature is within 3 degrees each time you do a test.  5 degrees colder will increase aerodynamic drag 1%.  Wear the exact same pants and jacket each time.  Tighter clothing will give better wh/mile than looser clothing that flaps more in the wind.

Good luck, I look forward to your results.  Someone tag me on facebook or post a link when there is a reply to this.  I haven't logged on to EMF in over 4 years I think.   Or at least since the narcissist-in-chief was elected in late 2016, I basically just stayed on facebook only, just in case he tried to do something completely nuts to try to destroy our democracy like he eventually ended up doing Jan 6th, and so I just got used to just staying on facebook to keep in touch with real time news which doesn't happen on this forum.  Although things are so much better and safer the past few months, maybe it's time to come back here again

4
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Hollywood Electric ZERO FAIRING KIT
« on: August 26, 2020, 09:15:47 PM »
It was hard to get exact numbers because my pup Charger went everywhere with me, but I estimated upright you will see ~10-15%, but if you are short on range and need a boost badly, the real beauty is to be able to tuck behind it in an emergency for a ~35% increase vs upright without it.

Since getting the SR/S with a similar fairing stock, I have had someone who can watch Charger sometimes, and the tuck range increase behind the fairing really helps when you need a boost.   Zero says a 13% range increase in a tuck, but without question I have seen it become much higher if you tuck tight, put your feet on the passenger pegs, fold in the mirrors, and rest your chin on your left hand.

5
I posted this to a different thread, but I'll post here also. 

https://www.gofundme.com/f/brian-t-rice

6
There is a fundraiser for Brian that I posted to facebook this afternoon.  The overwhelming support for Brian has been amazing!  Thanks everyone!  I know there are some here who don't use facebook so I'll post here also.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/brian-t-rice

**moderator edit Shadow 11-Aug**  Also for reference the thread at EMF here: A Fundraiser for Brian   was formerly set sticky and noted here for future reference.

7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: A Fundraiser for Brian
« on: July 12, 2019, 11:46:06 AM »
Thanks for posting this here Tom!

8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 12kW L2 Chargers
« on: March 06, 2019, 11:07:26 AM »
46 Amps lol!! (and it says 30 amps (rated max) below that hahahaha)  I will check them out! 

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 12kW L2 Chargers
« on: March 06, 2019, 10:35:15 AM »
I've used about 5000 J1772's (3300 alone according to ChargePoint, stat pic below) in the last 8 years (sometimes 4 at a time) and I've seen just 1 J1772 station that can do 12 kW located in Tucson, AZ (pic attached, and FB link below) but it is no longer on the map.  About 1 in 100 will do 8 kW, but 99% are 7 kW or less, and almost all Blink stations are about 5.5 kW or less.

But I've seen quite a few Tesla stations do over 16 kW.

And the easiest way to get 12 kW or more, (I have many times pulled 24 kW or higher), is using multiple J1772's at the same time.  I've used thousands of locations with 2 J plugs or more, many have 4 or more.

https://www.facebook.com/ElectricTerry/photos/a.487822534646889/510584192370723/?type=3&theater



When viewing the pic attachments, slide the viewer all the way to the right to see the whole pic

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: 2012 Zeros Recalled!
« on: May 09, 2018, 09:18:59 PM »
ColoPaul you were right, I see where he later made comments adding the cost of taxes title and fees to bring it to $5800.  Still a great deal for a 2017!!  If you're looking to just keep riding electric and don't care about the latest and greatest you look for a 2013 or 2014 S model, which will still be faster and more range than the 2012 S, so still a hell of a deal.

And true while this is unexpected and not a choice, someone made the comment that if you're driving a 20 year old Volvo around, and some distracted lady comes flying through an intersection and smacks you totaling your car, you don't really have a choice in the matter either, and the insurance will only give you what they think your car is worth, not what it was worth to you.   In this deal, they are giving you full KBB, which I think is on the high end of what many would decide to part with cash for another 2012 if you see what I mean, plus $1000 on top towards another Zero, so basically a 15%-20% bonus on top.

I see a 2017 S 6.5 asking price for $8400 on Cycle Trader.  Negotiate to $8000 and take the $1500 2017 coupon and that's $6500, minus the $1000 bonus and that's $5500, add in the trade in value and your within range of the taxes and fees and have a bike that's only 1 year old vs 6 years old!  I mean really, it's hard to be complaining if you think about it.  No one wanted this to happen.  But it did.  Look at it as a great opportunity to get on something newer.  Do you see Lloyd complaining about spending $5800 to get on a 2017 SR with 50% more range and double the power, ABS brakes, Showa suspension, better ergonomics, more informed dash readout, etc.  I mean stop to really think about this and look at the glass as half full instead of half empty and it will appear as a great opportunity. 

If its just about money, and not having the best bike, you can come out ahead.  Negotiate on a 2013 or 2014 FX and you will actually profit in the deal.


11
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: 2012 Zeros Recalled!
« on: May 09, 2018, 04:06:08 AM »
Did everyone see on Facebook?  Lloyd Reeves got a demo 2017 SR with 400 miles for $3760 out of pocket after trading in his 2012 Zero S!  He is so freakin happy right now!

Edit: he says in a later comment "plus taxes, tags, delivery etc"  In a later comment he says the total was $5800.  Still a damn good deal for a 2017 SR!!

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: 2012 Zeros Recalled!
« on: May 02, 2018, 09:02:06 PM »
Looks like I was too low in my estimation if the 2012 Zero customer is correct who messaged me this morning asking which model year Zero he should buy, in which I replied 2018 if you can for the biggest battery, or 2017 if power is mostly important to you and the biggest battery is not a priority, and if power is not important and can't qualify for financing the remainder of a 2018, to get a 2016, as it is the first year with a stronger frame for more confidence and less frame flex flicking the bike back and forth in the corners, and also has the suspension, bearing, brake, wheel and ABS upgrades that came with the 2015 model year, yet was the first year of the 13.0 battery which had almost 20% less internal resistance than the 2015 12.5 battery.

Everyone should be able to get something 2016 or newer as it looks like Zero is going above and beyond to really take care of their early adopters with a generous offer, and for that we all should be grateful.  If the customer who messaged me is correct it looks like it might be $6000 buyout, and $7000 towards a new or used Zero at a current Zero dealer.  For $7000, this means that adding perhaps $2k or $3k of your own money, you can get into the 2016 to 2018 range which i would love to see everyone do if they can.  I know at least 3 people who got used 2016 3 brick Zero S's this year for the $6k-$7k range so if you want an SR, for a little more it's totally possible.

Again i have no confirmation on this, just one single independent report, but i have been friends with this customer for 7 years and he has always been very reliable.

13
Yes Mac20vt, get someone who speaks perfect English to read this thread and explain it to you.  This is serious, please do not make any plans to try to fix your 2012 ZF9.  This bike will be set for demolition by Zero soon.  You will be compensated for it, with also an incentive to get a newer bike that has potted batteries (so they will never corrode) and also has a new motor design with an IPM rotor if you get a Zero 2016 and newer, so both of the problems you have experienced you won't have anymore.

Have your English speaking friend read this link to you here:

http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7891.0

14
Range numbers listed are accurate for City, and also for highway if you ride in a tuck position.  Many choose not to, and that's ok, you just get about 30% more aero drag (30% less range) if you ride upright.   So the Zero highway number lists the potential range you can get, which is good to know what you can do if you have to, but many times we choose not to as it is more comfortable to ride in a way that is not the most aerodynamic.

Since the 2018 DSR 14.4 has a 78 mile range at 70 mph in a tuck position you have 4 choices if you want to make it the 70 miles home with some to spare.

1) Ride home on the carriage way in the slow lane behind a big slow truck for at least the first 35 miles hopefully at 60-65 mph, no more.  If you're halfway there and you have 60% or more left, you can pass the truck and ride home faster, but it's better to conserve the first half versus being forced to the 2nd half.

2) Ride at 70 mph, but do it in a full race tuck the whole way.  It helps to stuff a sweatshirt in the front of your jacket for padding and just lay on your belly with the sweatshirt as a pillow.

3) Pick a place 20 miles from your home you can stop for a warm coffee and some food, or even to do some emails or work calls on your phone for an hour or so parking your bike somewhere with a outdoor plug.  You can filter plugshare to show you where the 110 outlets are, but there are outlets in every building that has a light bulb, you just have to learn where to look.   With a 2018 DSR you will gain 1% battery every 360 seconds (6 minutes) you are plugged in.  So you can stay plugged in until you are sure you can make it.

4) Use google maps to choose a route home but under "options" check the box for "avoid highway".  Even if it is 5-10 miles longer, if the speed is 20 miles per hour less, you will be able to go almost twice as far.  You will learn how this works over time, but going just 10 mph slower at 70 mph, can boost range 20-25%.

So you have a lot of options.  And you can combine all 4 if you want.  After you have the bike for a week all of this will seem so easy, sorry if I made it sound complicated.  The easiest thing to always do is just when in doubt about if you'll make it, is ride slower the first half to be safe.

Also a pro tip:   If the bike at the dealer has been plugged in for a while unplug it.  then turn it on and connect your phone to the bike with the Zero app.  (have the dealer show you how to pair it by holding the mode button until the Bluetooth logo on the dash flashes) Go to the battery page and look at the volts.  If it doesn't say 116, (it probably says 113, 114 or 115 which is ok) then plug it in again and let it fully top off.  It's not good to keep a battery full full full all the time, so the bike doesn't continuously keep topping itself off so full it wants to burst, but if you will be riding it shortly, its best to pack up to 5% more range into the bike by topping it off to full full full right before leaving.  You'll know when its absolutely full as the green light on the dash will stop flashing and the Zero app will read 116 volts.

You're gonna love your new DSR!  If you're anything like me and others, you will enjoy riding it so much, some days you want to ride it 500 miles or more.  And you can, you just will need to get fast chargers.  But I'll let you learn about that later.  But on your 70 mph ride home, imagine riding as fast as you want, and then 10 miles from home you just plug into 2 J plugs for about 8 minutes while you take a pee, and then you can make it the rest of the way.  It's a game changer for sure.

Good luck Jeremy and let us know how it goes!  And congrats on your new bike!

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: 2012 Zeros Recalled!
« on: April 22, 2018, 10:11:53 PM »
I would guess that once picked up they will be discharged in a controlled location, then dismantled, and recycled (battery) and disposed of, crushed/destroyed (everything else) including chopping up the frame to ensue the salvage parts can never get used again.

If that happens, that is going to be a shame for anyone who wants to set up an electric motorcycle museum in the future.  The 2012 Zero range is worth protecting for historical reasons, even if the batteries need to be removed from the chassis.

Good point, It would be nice to get a blank battery box to preserve some of the bikes in excellent condition to go into motorcycle museums someday.   I know even if the battery is removed, they will want to ensure the bike never gets ridden again at least, so I don't know how to ensure this.  But I totally see what you mean.   The 2012 Zero is the bike that put Zero on the map.  First electric bike to get 100 miles range (city) and it would be worth preserving these for this purpose I agree.

Hopefully at Zero once the monolith is disassembled and cell bricks removed, it can be reassembled without the cells inside and many of these bikes kept somewhere.  However, someone has to store these bikes for perhaps 10 years before museums become interested enough in electric to want them.

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