ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

That's what they did to me....  For using their own quiq chargers on my SR, and running into the equivalent issue on the older SR.  Refused to warranty my powertank, and then blocked me from the groups they could.

Yup.  For the first at least ~4 years, it doesn't seem to matter if they are a bit different.  If you are charging at Zero's charging rates, it will probably never make a difference.  If you are going to charge with three digi's, and the packs are mismatched, and they're getting old, and you have the PT going bad prematurely, and you have the faulty SOC firmware, you may see the PT disconnect.  Even then, if you have all of that go wrong, ...just charge with two.

As far as I have been able to tell, the 'tap method' just changes between the different profiles already loaded into the charger.  If you get a non-zero 96v QuiQ, they come with PbA profiles loaded by default and will almost surely not do what you want.  You need the programmer and profiles to change it. 
The part number that Zero uses is unique, so I've made sure that I always get ones that were originally from Zero to avoid that problem.  They also come with the right connectors, not that they would be difficult to crimp on.  Watch ebay, they come up every so often for a reasonable price; I just sold 3 of mine.

Previous discussions stated that algo '123' was what Zero was previously programming.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=2836.0

Most of my charging up until recently has been with the onboard and 1,2,3, or 4 QuiQ.  The more current you can push from outside the bike, the better for the temperature of the pack to not have it cooking on the onboard.

Hey guys, sorry to disappoint, but this is not how to initiate charging. In order to do it safely, even through the aux, you have to communicate with the bike. You also have to obey Zero's rules; I am sure you guys have seen photos of burned down bikes... I just saw someone's system burn down the other day because they were not following the rules.

I was under the impression OP was using a QuiQ external charger.  Rereading, I realize that wasn't clear.

Yes, if the question is about a generic dumb charger, then "everything EC said."  If you're purchasing new hardware, get the diginow.  If you already have the QuiQ, then I stand by my previous comments.

Also note that the weight limit for an 'accessory,' hanging attachment is also generally quite a bit lower than the tongue rating as well.  This is because the weight has a twisting torque to it rather than just straight down-force.  Maybe see if you can replace the hitch and the support structure that it connects to if you want to do this.  Otherwise, yes, you should use an actual trailer.

While I really like my Zero, and like what the company stands for, the truth of the matter is --
 * They do not support or engage end-customers directly in a useful manner.
 * Everything regarding support, parts, and warranty has to be proxied through a dealer.
 * You can't get access to the right tools & docs via their channels as an end-user.

However, there is a lot of support through the online Wiki and this forum.  Quite a bit can be done without special access.  Therefore, if I were in your location, I agree with Shadow -- get a recent (2015-) used model that is already out of warranty.

Just as a point of clarification, electrocution means death caused by electric shock. Since you appear to still be alive, I hope what you experienced was much less severe.

To your point though-  I’m struggling to figure out how you’d feel a strong shock through one peg and not the other, especially with the assumption that you would be wearing boots, pants, and gloves.  The BMS checks for isolation loss at the battery, so loss of isolation pre-controller would be detected reliably.  I’d expect some level of detection on the motor side for an amount of leakage as high as you’re describing, but I don’t know the controller as well as others here.  Did it feel like an AC shock or DC?



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