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Messages - hein

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Gates App vs Krikit for Belt Tension
« on: July 05, 2023, 05:46:26 AM »
Do we have some sample desirable frequency ranges for a 2013 S?

I just installed the Gates app and tried it with the bike on its side stand.
Should it be? Could it be? Should it be suspended or upright loaded with driver?
My User Manual page 5.15 - 5.16 does not specify.
It does specify 20 - 30 kg using an otherwise unspecified  'Tension Tester'
In the manual it does NOT look like the $17 Krikit but more like the $65 https://www.amazon.com/Gates-Carbon-Drive-Tools-Tension/dp/B003UP6AH4

I don't have enough space to rotate right now.
In a silent garage the Gates app showed 121 Hz and and sometimes 60/61 as if showing a base harmonic.

I also used the "audiotool" app (V8.2) which I use to check music venue loudness.
It showed a consistent 123 Hz plucking the belt.

It 'feels' tense to my fingers but I suppose it's been like this for thousands of miles
 (8000? since last rear tire replace, 16000 total).

I do have a low speed ( < 25 mph ) low volume star-trek whine which I wish was not there.

As I'm having my rear-tire replace soon, and if the shop is willing to play the game,
what would be a good target frequency for my Zero 2013S?

Thanks for any and all inputs.
Hein.


2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: modifications - J1772 charge port mounting locations?
« on: October 11, 2022, 05:32:16 AM »
Quote from: Kill3rT0fu on October 11, 2022, 02:52:33 AM
So this is only held in with friction?

Yes. Hasn't moved in the past 9 years 16000 miles.
A strand of insulated wire was all it took to commit.
You can see it in light blue in one of the pictures.
Just lucky on the tube vs hole sizing. ;-)



3
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: modifications - J1772 charge port mounting locations?
« on: October 10, 2022, 06:53:11 PM »
I put mine in the frame tube, but my only goal was to connect to the original IEC-320 C14 male power receptacle.
No holes drilled for me as I used a short C13 cord stashed in the  tube to make the hookup when needed.
I was lucky in that I happened to have just shortened an awning roller which had just the right size to fit snuggly in the tube.
I cut and folded one end to screw down the 1772 charge port to the tube.
Black electrician tape on the other end for scratch protection and a tight fit.
(I still have a 10" or 2x5" tube section left)
Hein

4
Tech Help / Re: 2018 Zero S - lights don't work
« on: August 17, 2022, 01:48:51 AM »
Well, it happened to me last night - unfortunately.
No 12V, Not a single light working - at dusk fortunately.
Just coming of the highway 2 miles from home - fortunately.
It's scary to drive home very carefully without lights right by police busy with an accident - fortunately.

It turned out all I had to do (2013 S, 15K miles) was re-seat the two big plugs under the seat, under the 12V fusebox. - fortunatly.
I don't know which one did the trick.

I was about to dig deep, get to the DC-DC converter, measure it out.
I had read about the control signal to the DC-DC converter sometimes not coming thru and hoped for the simple bad-contact failure mode and it was! In a 'doesn't hurt to try' I popped them and re-seated, turned on the ignition and presto!

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Loss_of_12V_Power

Boy I boy was I happy it 'fixed' it.
This machine is NOT designed for (internal) maintenance.
What a pain to get to anything at all.
Just to get the side-shield off you need to blindly get to a 'hidden' 3mm hex by the rear peg mounts.
I had started on removing the (break) side rear peg to get more working space but even that was nasty with a hidden 13mm bolt which I could only give a 1/12 turn each time with a 12-seat box wrench. Everything is 'from behind'. Bah.

Anyway... here is hoping it will not happen again.

Also I was thinking what if this had happened at a worse time, maybe with the DC-DC converter actually broken.
It made me wish there to be a little backup battery. But to run with head-light, brake-lights with would have to deliver more than 5 amps, so a 'normal' motorcycle battery (heavy!) would last only half an hour or so. Still some setup with LiIon, a diode or two and a hefty warning light on activation could give you 5 or 10 minutes to get to a safe spot.

Hein.


5
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Charge cable temperature question on 2017 FXS
« on: April 06, 2021, 02:30:31 AM »
Quote from: ESokoloff on April 06, 2021, 12:38:27 AM
Quote from: hein on April 05, 2021, 11:18:15 PM
Noop.
The breaker protects the wiring, not the outlets.

Please provide NEC  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Electrical_Code
documentation that states a 20 amp outlet can be installed downstream of a 50 amp circuit breaker?

Thank you Eric,
This is all 2005 NEC. 210.21 Outlet Devices material correct?
I should not comment on that without thorough understanding.
Or as someone wrote https://www.bobvila.com/posts/82844-15-amp-outlets-in-a-20-amp-circuit more bluntly  "Don't listen to him unless you want to burn your house down. "
It seems a 20 Amp receptacle should be protected with a 20 Amp breaker.
The only exception being multiple 15 amps on a 20 amps circuit
I haven't found a perfect URL  for the exact NEX 210.21 wording.
This seems to come close: https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/code-focus-article-210-branch-circuits


Thanks,
Hein



6
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Charge cable temperature question on 2017 FXS
« on: April 05, 2021, 11:18:15 PM »
Quote from: ESokoloff on April 04, 2021, 05:18:38 AM
It’s my understanding that the circuit breaker must protect the max rating of the lowest amp draw device (outlet), so that 50 amp circuit breaker would have to be replaced with a 20 amp breaker if a 20 amp outlet was installed on that circuit.

Noop.
The breaker protects the wiring, not the outlets.
Think about your house.
How many outlets in the kitchen alone, each rated 15 Amps? 8+ ?
How many breakers? My guess is just 1 at 20 Amps, all outlets being fed from the same 12 Awg copper romex for sure.

 mdjak1>> "Alright, you convinced me.   But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car."

If you have to panel right there, and a spot for a breaker than yes for sure, add the breaker!
Well done.

7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Charging a 2013 battery with 110v/120v (instead of 220v/240v)
« on: April 05, 2021, 11:09:54 PM »
Quote from: Crissa on April 02, 2021, 09:52:14 AM
The heat is bad.  But the plugging and unplugging is worse.
Use a switch.  And the lower amperage of the 240v is awesome.
-Crissa

That's 4 times agreed by me.

For the plugging and unplugging I think it feels more natural (to me) to plug into the outlet first.
Don't do it!
Plug into the bike first, and go deep. It has smaller spades and you do NOT want it to spark (=polute) there.
Plug into the wall next, that's designed for plugging in and out, and it can all readily be replaced if need be.

I do love my 240 outlets, and the lower amps that come with that.

I rewired the compressor to run on 240 as well, and a small welder, and a drill press that came with my moving from Europe 30 years ago.


8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Charge cable temperature question on 2017 FXS
« on: April 01, 2021, 09:19:18 AM »
Quote from: mdjak1 on April 01, 2021, 05:08:49 AM

Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug.   I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.   

I am curious about your J1722 adapter.   Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket?   Or is there always power available on the plug?

No reason for an additional circuit, just an additional outlet on the 14-50 circuit ?
The Bolt charger is 7.2 KW - 30 Amps.
The OEM charger on the Zero will pull 5 or 6 Amps @ 240 V (for a longer time).

Is your circuit/breaker 40A ( = 32 A  max = 80% all the time) or 50A?
Just don't charge at the same time?

Yes the J1772 adapter I made for my zero has a resistor built in for proximity detector.
Circuits/specs are easy enough to search in this forum or on the wild web.

hth,
Hein


T

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Charge cable temperature question on 2017 FXS
« on: March 31, 2021, 09:49:36 PM »
Quote from: mdjak1 on March 29, 2021, 09:07:43 AM
I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm.

Yup, same here, when charging with 120 and OEM cable. Before switching to 240V I switched to 14 AWG, which kept the cable cold but plug warm.

Quote from: DonTom on March 29, 2021, 08:57:02 AM
If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.
-Don-  Reno, NV

Ayup... that's the better way to go!

Quote from: mdjak1 on March 29, 2021, 03:27:05 AM
I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt.   So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.

   However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg.   I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route. 

For sure, go AWG 14 . No need for AWG 12 imho but the AWG 16 provided is just not good enough for the Amps needed.

If you have 240 in the garage, then you should use it.
I have two solutions for mine
A) I installed a NEMA 6/20 outlet, and  put a 6/20 plug (actually the  ( -  - ) low amp variety on a 14 AWG cable.
B) I fabricated my own J1722 adapter. There are several topics on this in this forum. Search and you shall find!
My solution was  an 1772 Female I ordered which I attached  to a section of aluminum pipe I happened to have which i could slip snuggly into the empty frame tube in the rear fork. At the back end i just attached a short charging cable to plug into the existing input when used.
See pics.

Good luck!

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Making some new features for Dash
« on: September 29, 2018, 10:13:45 AM »
>> Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99

Thanks for the hint! I downloaded and tried today. Looks good - Clean, Clear.

I needed it yesterday, when I ran out of battery for the first time after 12,000 miles with my 8.5Kwh 2013 Zero-S

I knew I was pushing it, leaving @ 7 bars, needing 7 in eco doing 70 to get the 32 mile to work with 29 highway.
I was likely to get into the last flashing bar.

Somehow I thought there was a 'hidden' 12th bar as reserve, but no!

With 1/2 mile of highway left the last bar went blank and speed dropped rapidly 70 - 60 - 50.
Guess I forgot to take the slight uphill over the last mile into account.
I had to wait for a big break in traffic to somewhat safely cross 3 lanes @ 30 for my left exit, with still a mile to go.
Speed dropped to 20 .. 15 or so on the long exit ramp, but it seemed happier at 10, so that's what I did... scary!
Stopped at hotel with outside wall outlet and charged for 10 minutes before finishing the last 1/2 mile @40.

btw... going all out at 80 - 85 (along with traffic in 55 zone ?!) I use 9 out of 11 bars, with a minor heat warning on last slight uphill.
So I need to charge at work to get back home.  When the outlet at work was done for a few weeks I had to use side roads.
At 40 .. 45 Mph, I need just over 5 bars and I can make it out and back to work with 65+ miles and 1 or 2 bars flashing at me.

11
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Voltage transformer from 120v to 220v??
« on: June 23, 2016, 01:32:55 AM »
Wow, that's some seriously old stuff shown on that picture.
You may want to consider to update that for a variety of reason (including local economy :-)

There is a power max on the the standard charger.
For the charger it matters very little whether it gets say 110V x 14A, or 220V x 7A
For your cables/wires it does matter.
For 7A you can yse 16 guage, whereas 14A will warm up 14A wires and plugs
That signifies losses, and becomes a fire risk with marginal components.

Is the house wired for a STOVE or Electric Dryer?

I made my own 'converter cable' from US - Dryer to European 220 plug.

Cheers,
Hein



12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: New Zero S Owner with Some Questions
« on: May 21, 2016, 02:35:14 AM »
Ah, now I see what I was missing. Sorry.
Yeah, why waste electrons when you can simply hold the brake.
Hein

13
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 12V circuit goes down in cool weather, and is fine in warm weather
« on: May 19, 2016, 08:51:40 PM »
I live in NH as well, and fortunately have not have had lot-temp 12V issues.
There have been plenty of low-temps around to verify... In the beginning of this week the mornings started out in the low 40s.

I have had issues with the main battery refusing to charge when too soon, when temps drop under 40, but above freezing.
Not that I think freezing temps (32 F, 0 C)  is relevant for the Zero batteries, just lower is important.

Why can the bike not just limit charging (and driving) currents a bit (even down to say 20%) when temps are low until the charging/driving warms up the battery a bit and then increase the amps, making the temp come up faster and so on until into safe max load range?

This is my biggest annoyance with the bike.
I got to the office one day in near freezing temps, and the bike refused to charge.
I needed that charge to get home at the speeds I prefer.

Hein



14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: New Zero S Owner with Some Questions
« on: May 19, 2016, 08:42:12 PM »
>> When braking uphill, rather than apply the brakes, there have been a couple instances where I've just slightly engaged the throttle. That seems easier, but I'm guessing it's bad for the belt.

I don't understand. What am I missing here? Regeneration is supposed to be a big positive thing.
The system is designed to use that. How can it be bad for the belt?
Yeah the forces will go one way (driving, accelerating) one second and reverse the next for 'engine braking = re-generation', but why would that be bad for it? It is designed for that.
I drive avoiding the brakes, notably the rear brake to the max and let the generator (aka motor) do that job. I only use (tap) the rear brake for weight transfer to the front for heavy breaking.

fwiw,
Hein.

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: My LED Headlight
« on: November 19, 2015, 05:08:50 AM »
Quote from: BrianTRice on November 01, 2015, 10:53:08 PM
-
The locking ring has two tabs that face the lamp and this LED model fixture has screw mountings that collide with the tabs. You have to file off maybe 3mm of the tabs where they collide to get the assembly to lock in correctly.
-
Also, the rubber boot that covers the lamp has to be extended to cover the heat sink or forced inward. I went with extending it.

I also ordered the Astra Depot High Power 30W Xenon White H4 9003 HB2 XM-L2 CREE LED Hi/Lo to replace the H4. The low beam seemed a bit too low without adjusting, but I like the combination with the high beam, so I think I'll leave it. I like it.

Brian
1) I decided to only saw off and file down one of the tabs on the nylon lock ring. That did enough to avoid the annoying screws on the removable H4 base plate.

2) I don't think you want that boot to cover the heat-sink. With a bit of hustling I got the boot to slide over the larger diameter heat-tube, and fit between base-plate and heat-sink.

Others,
It was too much fumbling to get it sorted out with the headlight in place.
Decided to remove it for more work space, and put back once assembled. Highly recommended.
You need a 3mm and 4mm hex bit to remove the headlight assembly.  Why were they not all 4mm? Oh well.

I replaced the running light with LED also. It needed an intense tug to get the rubber out of the hole.
I got a bag full (50?)  general purpose LED's for $10 for that.

Tail/number plate needed more dis-assembly than I expected. Just 4 deep Philips screws. no big deal.

Headlight beam Adjustment screws seems awkward to get at.

Nothing is made for easy maintenance is it now?
Hein



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