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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: remmie on June 16, 2020, 03:47:03 AM
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The SR/F and SR/S have a cruise control feature. and that is a great thing. I personally do not use it much but every time i do the feature itself is fantastic, giving your right hand a well deserved rest :)
However, the button to engage the cruise control is in a (how shall i say this nicely) horrible position. When normally gripping the "gas"handle my thumb is far from long enough to reach the button. I physically have to move my hand to the utmost left of the handle and then reach with my thumb, twisting my right arm. Not very pratical or even safe when you want to turn it off (it will also turn of when engaging the front or rear brake or the kill switch by the way)
So with a little experimenting with a 3D cad program (Solidworks) and a 3D printer (cheap Anet-A6) and 4 itterations I think I now have a working cruisecontrolbuttonextensionarm (triple word value for scrabble :) )
In the attachments there are some photo's of the extension arm and also the STL file to 3D print it yourselves. I have not tested it on the road yet but sitting in the garage I can easily power on the cruise control by keeping the button pressed for 1 second. Actually engagin the cruise can only be done when going at least 30 kph.
The install is pretty simple, just unbolt the lower bolt of the mirror/brakehandle retaining bracket. this is a black M6x20mm bolt which will be too short for the 3D printed extender. So you will also have to get a M6x40mm bolt and secure the extender so that the little blob on the back of the extender lines up with the dimple in the cruise control button. That's about it for install. Now you can test whether it works by switching on the bike, putting up the kickstand (don't forget to sit on the bike or have it on a stand LOL) and press the extender arm.
With my bike i have made it so the button is already about a mm depressed in the resting state of the extender. That way when the extender is depressed i have about 1 mm clearance on the back before it touches the throttle housing when it engages the cruise control button fully. If you print the extender yourself you may have to fiddle (or rather file) a bit with the blob on the backside to properly engage the button.
Do NOT print this extender in PLA. it will go brittle and deform in sunlight. I have used (black) PETG but i supposed you can also use ABS. It does need some flexibility but I think the PETG will do fine. Having the luxury of owning a 3D printer helps if it shoiuld break prematuraly, Ill just print a new one :)
Hope this helps some people deal with the awkward placing of the cruise control button. I think I'll test it out some evening this week to know for sure it handles well
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Here's the preview in the Cura App (slicing app for 3D printing)
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This is the STL file (in a ZIP)
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What an interesting idea ; thanks !
The current location of the cruise control button is simply horrendous.
What should be a no-brainer (as one is expected to keep his/her attention to the road) always results in a - in my case - unsafe action, as I usually need to engage the CC with my left hand, reaching out to the far right.
Trying to find the button, hold the handle bar steady, and keep an eye on the road is not an easy thing to do.
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Great solution! I also don't like the position. I almost never use it just because it's literally painful to get my thumb on the button not to mention to press it on the right moment while still holding throttle.
BMW has it on the other side and on top of the controls cluster. Close to where the high beam is on the SRF (maybe a bit higher). Now that I think of it I rarely use it on that bike also... but if I do it won't hurt me.
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What is the big space between the controls and the grip? That's like some huge thumb wasteland.
-Crissa
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What is the big space between the controls and the grip? That's like some huge thumb wasteland.
-Crissa
It is where the potmeter houses that measures the position of the throttle. Also the return spring is in there.
The same big space is also present on previous models like the S, SR, DSR and FX? (see the link below). But with those models you don't notice it because it is the mode button. You rarely change mode while being on the throttle. With setting cruise control you have to hold the throttle to set the cruise control speed. Especially if you have the neutral regen turned up high (i Have it at 100%, it's almost like one "pedal" driving).
If the neutral regen is high and you would release the throttle to engage the cruise control the drop in speed could be as high as 10-15 kph, that is not very safe and also not practical if you want to set it at a certain speed.
I think this lever will also be very helpful when disengaging cruise control. Because I have the neutral regen set high, if i press on the button to disengage the cruise, the regen is so strong that it is like braking quite hard. That is very annoying for my girlfriend on the back and it is also not safe because with neutral regen the brake light does not come on (another topic for discussion)
With this lever i can give a little throttle and then disengage the cruise control without that big deceleration much more easily. I CAN do it with the standard button but then my hand is in such a weird position that I eventually have to let it go to reposition my hand and then the big decceleration still happens. But hopefully that is all in the past now :)
https://www.testmotor.nl/images/stories//getest/2015/Zero/SR//Test_2015_Zero_SR_4.jpg (https://www.testmotor.nl/images/stories//getest/2015/Zero/SR//Test_2015_Zero_SR_4.jpg)
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Yeah, it looks like it would make it far safer.
I'm just surprised they kept the throttle housing separate.
-Crissa
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Brilliant!! Remmie you are a star.
I use the cruise a lot, mostly on boring dual/motorways to stop me zooming around the traffic. At the moment I have to shift my hand over the throttle potentiometer, to hold throttle with little two fingers and palm, and then press the button. The result is extremely jerky acceleration/deceleration which I know gives cars around me a opportunity to wake up. ( what is he doing? crazy motorbikes!). The point about the regen setting is useful too.
I had planned to simply glue an extension piece onto the switch, as a friend of mine has done on his BMW ( same issue !!), but your solution is much more elegant.
I dont have a 3D printer, but your ideas is priceless. Thank you!
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Thanks for the model. Printing one now on my Prusa (in black). The current placement does require a very agile thumb!
Installed and tested (in the garage anyway). I went with White since that's the only PETG I had (and Green in ABS, so, White). I'll give it a test ride today.
Steve
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Great thread. I use my left hand to work the cruise.
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Worked great on a road test. Thanks again for the model. Still just a little awkward, but 90% better. It's a keeper.
Steve
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You're welcome, glad it makes a difference. 8)
I have yet to test mine, unfortunately too much rain here :'( but it works fine in the garage.
I've made another itteration though. This time the blob on the back is gone altogether, and the lever is 4mm closer to the handlebar, making it that little bit more natural for the thumb.
With this version you will need an M6x35 bolt. The bolt for the original was M6x40 and that is just a tad too long and bottoms before securing the lever.
I also added a small cap to hide the bolt. This cap should also work for the original lever but then it sticks out a bit more.
STL files in the attachments
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Brilliant, thanks for doing this Remmie. :)
I'm going to print this over the weekend.
Commuting to the office three times next week. Always use cruise control on my way there and back, and I always mutter quietly under my breath as i streeetch my thumb to the button each time
Thanks!
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STL files in the attachments
Hi Remmie, do you plan any near-future improvements over V5 ?
As I don't have a 3D printer myself, I am in the process of ordering this through a third party printing service.
Thanks !
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No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)
For me and my body position the lever is in exactly the right spot, I only have to move my thumb to reach it. I also like that it is totally reversible.
With V5 there is no more room to position the lever any further towards the handlebar. With the CC-button fully depressed by the lever there is a 1 mm gap where you can push the lever further (it can do so because PETG is flexible enough) but bringing it any closer to the handlebar would mean that the CC-button will not be completely depressed. And it needs to be completely depressed to work I have found.
I've tested some more versions but they were more cosmetic and some didn't work at all. I've tried making the lever higher so that it obscures the CC-button completely but that resulted that the lever hit the CC-button housing before it fully depressed the button. The same happened when I made a version where the lever was positioned 3 mm higher.
So basically the only thing I would consider is breaking any sharp edges that are present but that may mean the strength is different and is purely cosmetic so I'm not going to do that any time soon. In black the button is hardly noticeable and the little bolt cap aids in hiding the solver colored bolt.
1 thing to emphasize is to have it printed with 100% infill (so basically a solid model instead of a partial hollow one). Obviously the part where the bolt runs through needs to be ridged to hold the bolt securely so your brake assembly stays in place (rather important 8) ) and also the lever part needs to be solid because it must not flex too much otherwise the CC-button will not be depressed enough. And off course do not use a non-flexible material or a UV compromised material to print it. I used PETG which is pretty flexible but strong and does not wear out with UV. PLA is therefore NOT to be used. I imagine that ABS or Nylon or similar may work as well.
If your ordered part comes in and the lever proves to be a little too flexible you can always take a file and make the beveled? edge (is that called a beveled edge?) on the tip of the lever a little more beveled, bringing the lever a little bit more to the handlebar. It already has a little bevel of about 5 mm. The lever is 4 mm thick so you would hardly compromise the strength of the lever tip.
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No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)
Thank you for the elaborate feedback ; much appreciated.
Parts have been ordered (Dutch company, no less ;) ).
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No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)
For me and my body position the lever is in exactly the right spot, I only have to move my thumb to reach it. I also like that it is totally reversible.
With V5 there is no more room to position the lever any further towards the handlebar. With the CC-button fully depressed by the lever there is a 1 mm gap where you can push the lever further (it can do so because PETG is flexible enough) but bringing it any closer to the handlebar would mean that the CC-button will not be completely depressed. And it needs to be completely depressed to work I have found.
I've tested some more versions but they were more cosmetic and some didn't work at all. I've tried making the lever higher so that it obscures the CC-button completely but that resulted that the lever hit the CC-button housing before it fully depressed the button. The same happened when I made a version where the lever was positioned 3 mm higher.
So basically the only thing I would consider is breaking any sharp edges that are present but that may mean the strength is different and is purely cosmetic so I'm not going to do that any time soon. In black the button is hardly noticeable and the little bolt cap aids in hiding the solver colored bolt.
1 thing to emphasize is to have it printed with 100% infill (so basically a solid model instead of a partial hollow one). Obviously the part where the bolt runs through needs to be ridged to hold the bolt securely so your brake assembly stays in place (rather important 8) ) and also the lever part needs to be solid because it must not flex too much otherwise the CC-button will not be depressed enough. And off course do not use a non-flexible material or a UV compromised material to print it. I used PETG which is pretty flexible but strong and does not wear out with UV. PLA is therefore NOT to be used. I imagine that ABS or Nylon or similar may work as well.
If your ordered part comes in and the lever proves to be a little too flexible you can always take a file and make the beveled? edge (is that called a beveled edge?) on the tip of the lever a little more beveled, bringing the lever a little bit more to the handlebar. It already has a little bevel of about 5 mm. The lever is 4 mm thick so you would hardly compromise the strength of the lever tip.
I've done a few rides now with V5 installed (a 30mm M6 will work by the way, plenty of thread "bite", the hardware store was out of 35mm ones). Works great and very natural and responsive. Great design. I used solid PETG.
Steve
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Just fitted this, thanks again Remmie, only confirmed operation when switched on, will try for real tomorrow.
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I installed mine using an M6x40 that I grounded down to a little more than 35mm. Couldn't find a hex head M6 longer than 30mm in the local shops for some reason. And 30mm was just too short. The mirror on the other hand has 2x 30mm in case you want to try that.
Had to position the brake lever down a little from factory position for the piece to align with the button but other than that it just fits. And works great. Did a test ride and love it.
(https://i.ibb.co/cDpDWjd/DBA1131-F-30-BA-4957-9-DF3-57-B20262-E127.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D565BZn)
(https://i.ibb.co/DKcBJD9/8-AD7006-A-EE53-4358-A05-C-745-A25480-C93.png) (https://ibb.co/cTfWBc6)
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I printed and installed the V5 extender and after riding for a while I had a thought that Zero never intended the rider to reach across whilst all 4 fingers were on the throttle grip. So I removed the extended and tried this:
- move right hand towards the cruise control button such that three fingers are on the throttle grip and the index finger is on the throttle control housing (plastic between the grip and motor on/off switch). Move thumb to cruise control button.
I find this position to provide fine motor control over the throttle and the cruise control button.
Maybe just a preference thing.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ICghbSflMOlhM7_1ZbvxwgLZF5-ZXgm5rR_dpDNTM3Mtky6MPDatw0F4n7dEC-NELMhwbQN2L64nQ_LTjFVTMTcP2yi036gNiUsZWTw4yoxqr2xLAr4MkvC1vzbpj5PJVhm-_-soP36WMJRpGs5gYYGNB7xRyflevHR2qwDLk2UZvV-i4ZrkpGSIJHa3oBn98EaD0RVQRjK_lRPfDYfa39L2RbjoNfKLQom7FyKowpQI8isC88DHNU_4lv4BgsyXafyZiP8jQW91z43ZSIflpRRpjPQt1730p88MKYbTN8ZY3YE-LIHbBDRxazAOt9LDvEpxtXyBwRM37D4NJjBt1UEvqgvcECH8SqPA9HqRXtMZMCdDJLJDju6MV6XJEsOt5bbEOeILLCfcPcGUEaJY9uBOO6r2KZqqxGnGwJgsJVVrEjwJJTQ47p_T1CNZA_YqzufJ6N6Na2vJzbdGye-rKOubqlFpWPkT-_p0tAd_Cz3cAw4RUnpEIRAxhjkOrg0tPVAYTmU7yDtsvq5z9Y-DjEie9trt8uBOPYS3MfivUV70L6-UHAOPhueqsCdMGzxbSnAaLOQ3AiEcRqNYd9aV1BRox90FOu_UxeGO7mBu--114v2Frm8PhLTwGnMkZ3FIU13cTaL3gdA7M60exKhXiWbYMh7f3sBdtbqorS7JQuY_cTOZkpZNoF0zVsy73qQ=s1023-no?authuser=0)
Happily using it since now well over 500 km, many thanks for sharing that information Remmie, that is much appreciated, and greetings from Switzerland.
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Thanks Remmie, much more useful than the standard switch, which is frankly dangerous to operate.
I've made some slight mods:
-rounded the end to stop the corners catching my gloves.
-rotated the whole throttle/stop/cruise wing mirror mountings away from me to get a more comfortable angle. Note this means dealing with the Zero throttle location stud (mine was plastic and non existent, I now suspect this was me rotating and pulling the throttle off when fitting some Renthal 845 bars).
Anyway, I now use the cruise extensively, to the point that I now immediately switch it on at the start of a ride, and on and off according to road conditions. Bit of shame the function is a little basic, there is no "return to last set speed" or nudge up or down function. (well actually you can do the down by turning off and then on again with the bike naturally slowing slightly between each press..)
Brilliant Forum, Brilliant Members!
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what size bolt head did you guys use? This looks great but I got a standard philips head bolt and the head is too wide to sit inside the level. Sticks up and that makes the bolt too short.
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I have no access to a 3D printer. Would you consider making one for me and others and selling them ? I could acquire the bolt I suppose but if included I would like that too for a little extra in the price.
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Hey remmie, great idea as always! I'm going to steal the idea and try to design something for Energica's, which have the same problem ;)
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Hey remmie, great idea as always! I'm going to steal the idea and try to design something for Energica's, which have the same problem ;)
Totally agree! Saturday I rode a Energica Ribelle and can tell you that the CC switch is even WORSE positioned than on the Zero.
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I don't need that but that is a very clever solution. Well done!
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Thank you SO much for this STL and design! I used v5 as pictured. Had a friend print it in clear PETG - all he had on hand, at least it should be be even more UV stable. I might have him redo it in black at some point, but for now, I'm just happy it works so well. I had to rotate my brake lever down so that the bolt would be in the right spot, since AFAIK the throttle is indexed to the bars and won't rotate without modification. But it's ok here, still comfortable.
I ordered this set of M6 socket head black bolts, and used a 35mm one, from here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3RDYLL
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I registered a forum account to contribute this back. My thanks to remmie for sharing the design in the first place.
I made a V6 version of the lever. I added a rounded corner on the end as my thumb would tend to snag there when circling around to press down on the lever.
The stl can be downloaded from Tinkercad, or modified further if people are up to it.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0rQ7y4TiLu9?sharecode=bAEGpbofybI-vp14no-WRBpUeNVoomlWXOWK4ErVg64 (https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0rQ7y4TiLu9?sharecode=bAEGpbofybI-vp14no-WRBpUeNVoomlWXOWK4ErVg64)
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After some time with this improvement, I found another solution which suits me better: I’ve swapped the hazard and cruise switches round in the wiring behind the headlight. Now setting cruise is on left hand, so can keep throttle steady whilst setting.
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Got someone at work to print me the v5 and I'm so impressed. It makes the cruise control button so much easier to use. I'd considered rewiring and swapping with the hazard switch too but I have an SR/S and I dread to think how many panels I would have to remove to get to the wires.
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I just requested a friend to print this v5 for me and waiting on the part to get sent to me, excited to try it out. Brilliant work all!
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After some time with this improvement, I found another solution which suits me better: I’ve swapped the hazard and cruise switches round in the wiring behind the headlight. Now setting cruise is on left hand, so can keep throttle steady whilst setting.
Can you give some details on this? Are the wires obvious when you get the fairing off? This seems like a far more logical way to do it.
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https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11450.msg120570#msg120570