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Messages - electrictwowheeler

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SRF/ S drive belts.
« on: January 05, 2024, 12:45:30 PM »
I have a 2020 SR/S with 38,000 miles. The original belt got a hole punched in the middle by a small rock after riding about 10 miles on a muddy gravel logging road. I kept going to avoid backtracking 30 miles. The road turned back to pavement and I thought I had gotten away with it but on inspection later I saw the damage. It didn't break. That was at 4,000 miles. Then at about 25,000 miles I rode on fresh Chip Seal and rocks were flying furiously so turned around but the belt snapped before I got back to clean pavement. I had the old damaged belt as a get home spare and just rolled that on without loosening the rear axle nut and rode home. You only need to remove the inner fender and disconnect the inline connector to the rear tail light and remove a couple of wire ties. The third belt is still on there. My feeling is that the belts are strong enough but easily damaged by road hazards. The belt will not stretch so it snaps if anything hard gets under it. Avoid gravel !!

2
I did my 2020 SR/S a week ago and it is much easier to use the cruise control!! I opted to cut the wires and soldered them back together with waterproof heat shrink. The wires were black and solid blue and black and solid green but in the same position in the plugs.
Great mod! Thanks for the info

3
In the console you can get the lowest cell voltage under "status". Divide the pack voltage by 28 for the number of cells to get the average cell voltage and compare it to the lowest cell v. Sure, it's not like having the highest and lowest but it seems that's all we get. Good enough to get a general idea of cell balance. My 2020 SR/S with 28,000 miles is like 4 mv.

4
So, if I understand you right, you are saying that the bike will only go 25 mph. It seems to me that two things could cause that behavior. Either the low cell voltage is dropping very low and the BMS is cutting back power or the internal resistance in all the cells is so high that it can only supply enough current to attain 25mph. Is there a way you could get the cell voltages and pack voltage when the bike is actually being driven? That would tell you what is happening. The pack could be damaged beyond repair. It also seems odd that you would have an indicated SOC of 58% when the pack voltage is almost 114 volts. That voltage is more like 95% soc. If the pack has high resistance you will see allot of voltage sag when a load is applied. It would be easy enough to hook up a voltmeter to the pack and ride it. Worth a try.

5
Could you possibly just be hearing the normal buzzing of the drive belt caused by resonate vibrations at certain low speeds? Did your bike make this vibration since new? It happens at low speeds under 25 mph. When I accelerate there are two speeds that always cause this sound. If I speed up a little or slow down a little the sound goes away and above 25 mph there is just an even whine from the belt. This is perfectly normal and there is nothing you can do about it. Wheel balance usually causes a shaking and usually happens around 55 mph but can happen at other speeds. Do your handle bars shake? If you disconnect the belt the motor is almost silent and has no vibration. Ear plugs and a full face helmet are all you can do. Adjusting the belt to the lower end of tension might help but the belt will still make noise. Good luck.

6
My 2020 SR/S has 28,000. The stock tires lasted 9,000, the Dunlop Roadsmart 3 replacements lasted 17,000 thousand. I now have 2,000 miles on the second set of Dunlops.I have replaced two belts due to rock damage. The original had a small rock punch a hole through the center of the belt riding on a muddy gravel road and the second was from riding on fresh chip seal with tar covered gravel flying all over. Both equally dumb. I carry the original belt with the hole in the center as a spare. It got me home when the second belt snapped so I guess I am still getting some value out of it as an emergency spare.

7
If you get a bike that barely makes your trip you will be cycling the battery almost 100% every day. What do you do when you lose 5% of capacity? Or when it is 40 degrees, and your range is reduced? You will have to charge at some point during the day. If you are trying to avoid that why not get a bike that can do 120% of the milage you need? That way you could do the 90 miles a day for many years before the range dropped to 90 miles. You might pay more now but the battery will last allot longer! An Energica SS9 would probably work. I test rode one recently and liked it. Maybe someone with an SS9+ can chime in

8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: zero 11.4 2013 problems
« on: March 24, 2023, 09:28:59 AM »
If the battery voltage is at 95v the average cell voltage will be 3.39v but some cells will be higher and some will be lower. It only takes one low cell to shut things down. I would suggest getting two small cheap chargers made for a 48 volt SLA bike battery. One or two amp output would be fine. They will each put out 60v so wire the outputs in series and you can charge up to 120v. Use them to get the battery to something like 100v. Don't let the battery get near 116v because you can't know what voltage the individual cells are at and you are bypassing the contactor. Then try charging with the OBC. Good luck!

9
Energica / Re: Experia CCS Charging with ChargePoint
« on: March 10, 2023, 09:50:50 AM »
No, that's not me at the library. I have a blue SR/S. There is a pic of my bike at Don's Market in Santa Ysabel though.
I use an adapter I built to run external chargers on my Vectrix and on my previous Brammo Empulse and whatever. I have shut down a couple of charge stations also. There is always some level of anxiety when I use DCF chargers. I have had to resort to level 2 a couple of times and the Spark is only a 3000 watt OBC. Keep a book in the car, ha ha

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/S Rear Racks
« on: March 10, 2023, 08:35:00 AM »
I just used a piece of half inch marine plywood I had laying around the shop. I cut it the same shape as the GIVI snap on mount and used longer bolts to bolt through both the GIVI mount and the plywood spacer. Use 4 large nuts as spacers between the plywood and the bike where the bolts pass through so the plywood is not sitting directly on the plastic tail of the bike. The nuts need to be a larger size than the threads on the bolts, they should not actually thread on, just used as spacers. Painted flat black it looks fine even with the top case off. You could use thinner aluminum plate in place of the plywood but would be harder to cut out. Nice to see that there are some after market parts being offered.

11
Thanks for the pics! I'll be going near there in a couple of weeks and it would be fun to stop by for a tour. I'll give them a call.

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Reaaaaally slow charging to 110%
« on: March 05, 2023, 01:09:03 PM »
You were saying in another post that you might be getting a new 2023 battery replacement so I thought you might have gotten the new features also. Are you still waiting for the new battery?

13
Energica / Re: Experia CCS Charging with ChargePoint
« on: March 05, 2023, 09:58:20 AM »
On my Chevy Spark the silver metal thingy is the latch for the CCS handle when DC charging.  It should have nothing to do with AC charging. Maybe it was stuck or something. I'm in Borrego Springs and have been using that charge station at the library on my Zero. The Spark has had a history of not working on EA BCC brand chargers. They got that fixed but now it doesn't work on EVgo. There are EVCS level 3 chargers in Oregon that won't work on the Spark either so sadly, Energica isn't the only EV with compatibility issues. I think Level 3 comunication is much more complicated than Level 2. You can spoof a level 2 station with just a small diode and resistor. Some people say just the resistor will do it. I can charge my standup scooter on a level two charger, lol.

14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Reaaaaally slow charging to 110%
« on: March 04, 2023, 10:48:16 AM »
So, I assume you have gotten your new battery, Yes?
When I access info through the OBD port it says target voltage is 116.3v for 100% and max charge voltage 117.6 which would be a full 4.2 per cell. When I charge on 120v it charges at 1.3 KW right to the point where it shuts off. No tapering under 1.3 KW. Do you think the 110% is just charging to 117.6v max at a very slow rate to soak the battery? I have always been curious about how they could get 10% extra charge without going over the 4.2v limit. According to the MBB info the charge target for 90% SOC is 112.8v so 3.5v difference between 90% and 100%. So a 1.3v difference in charging voltage wouldn't give you 10% increase but if they charged really slowly for a long time and to a higher voltage they might do it. What was the charge rate? Are there any members out there with the 110% charging feature?

15
The Vectrix electric scooters did this all the time because of a poor design of the connection to the phase wires on the controller. Mine did it and I smelled the burning plastic before any real damage was done. I cleaned everything up and bolted it directly to the lug and it seems fine. I would just make sure the bolts are tight and that the connection is not getting hot and you are probably fine. Good luck!

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