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Topics - TheGap

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The belt of my bike is currently firmly rubbing the shouldered side of the rear sprocket.

I've found this helpful post which touched the exact topic in my question and where Doctorbass gave an excellent response in his last paragraph:
If your belt is too close to the rear sproket shoulder, then you can remove the motor sproket and remove one of the spacer behind it. this is about 1.5mm thick and there is 3 of these . Then your belt should be  1.5mm far from teh rear sproket shoulder.


I have one more question though and rather than necroing a thread from 2014 I thought I'd better start a new post.
--> does this fix still apply for the Zero 2017 SR?

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Stand alone J1772 signalling circuit
« on: February 12, 2018, 03:49:45 AM »
Hi,

Maybe this has already been asked/answered (I doubt I’m the first one) but couldn’t find anything relevant, so I’m sorry if this is a redundant post.

At my workplace they’re going to install charge stations, which is great news. Also, at several malls around my neighbourhood I’ve found free charge stations.
However, I don’t have a charge tank and all those stations use the European Type 2 plug aka Mennekes plug aka VDE-AR-E 2623-2-2 .
Zero does offer this or this solution but an SAE J1772 is the wrong type of connector for my region and for those prices I can get A LOT of kilometres just from payed charging at home (not to mention I’d still have to buy a cable too).

Only ready made after market solution I’ve found is this adapter cable … but again, for a little under €230 I can buy a LOT of electricity (and thus kilometers) at my place. So, to get a cheaper electric fix, I’m thinking to put my DIY skills to the test and want to make the same cable myself.


I’ve found a ‘relatively’ cheap Type 2 connector here.
Electrical connections from PE, N and L1 (don’t need L2 or L3) to C13 is straightforward.
Signalling used on the Mennekes plug is exactly the same as for the J1772 plug (see this Wiki and its references).
Proximity Pilot is easy enough to understand and rather irrelevant if I’m only using the onboard charger.


Now ...

The Control Pilot on the other hand is not yet completely clear to me.
It would seem I can build the whole thing out of only a few passive components.
Since I'm not using the latch for PP I can re-purpose it to tell the EVSE to switch from connected (State B) to charging (State C) and vice versa.
And I can ignore the whole duty cycle thing because I'm using the lowest rating anyway.
This all seems a bit too easy and I feel I'm missing something which could throw a spanner in the works … anyone else has any experience with this?

For the end result I’d like to integrate the entire circuit in the handle (with a few additional indicators and safety mechanisms).

3
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Flashing armed indicator
« on: January 23, 2018, 03:26:10 PM »
Hi,

This morning I wanted to leave for work and my display showed nothing but a blinking armed indicator.
0.6s very fast blinking, 3s off
Ignition key off or on made no difference.

Conditions:
I left the bike plugged in overnight
The bike was outside, not covered but it didn't rain (Bike was completely dry this morning)
Temperature outside this morning was around 7°C (44.6F)


I didn't find anything relevant in the troubleshooting chapter of the manual.
Anyone any idea what's going on?



Needed to get my car keys for the first time in several weeks  :(

4
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Which tires would fit
« on: December 07, 2017, 12:04:34 AM »
... on my Zero SR 2017


I really hope this isn't the umpteenth time this question has been asked. I couldn’t find anything else relevant in the search function.

The stock tires measure 110/70-17 (front) and 140/70-17 (rear) … but not all brands seem to have all size variants.
So I’m looking for the range of sizes which can fit.

Despite that the stock tires are Pirelli Diablo Rosso II, quite the reputable brand, I find that they have very poor grip on the road.
And now that winter is coming … I don’t want to brace myself.

So I’m looking at the Anlas Winter Grip Plus.
Unfortunately, their rear tires begin only at 150 and front tires at 120. And I don’t know enough about tires to just pick another size which can fit.

5
As mentioned in my very first post to this forum, I recently bought a Zero SR 2017.
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=8.msg55305#msg55305
Although (especially in Sport Mode) I’ve been giggling like a little girl on a swing while riding this bike I notice a few things are … off.

I’ve already uploaded the logfiles to Zero and created a support ticket with them. I also made an appointment with my dealer but additionally would like to get some feedback from people who don’t have any … how should I put it … “commercial conflict of interest”.

First of all, from day one I’ve noticed the same sound as mentioned in this post:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5785
Also, while driving at constant speed, the typical electric motor sound appears to be modulating.


When I unplug my bike from the mains after my batteries are charged to 100% (this doesn’t happen below 100% SOC) the Charging Indicator remains lit. Even after being unplugged for over 8 hours the indicator is still lit.


This happened only one time, but last week my turn signals completely refused to do anything:
While splitting lanes I turned on all four turn signals for safety (more visible to other drivers). Because I kept my eyes on the road I didn’t notice they didn’t turn on (reviewed it later, from footage on my helmet camera) and the whole ride home they never functioned, even when using the normal left/right turn signal switch.
Turn signals worked perfectly again the next day, a glitch perhaps?


Somewhat more annoying (as in: A LOT) is that very often and completely random the Charging Indicator lights up during my rides (This often even resets the Trip1 counter).
I’m already happy that this doesn’t trigger a safety which shuts down the bike while moving. Still there is a safety mechanism that (understandably) prevents the motor engaging when standing completely still and the Charging Indicator is lit up.
This means, of course, when I’m waiting at a traffic lights and for some odd reason the bike thinks that it’s plugged in, it refuses to move.
Resulting in a decent amount of honking going on behind me; such fun!  :(
The first few times I didn’t notice what was going on and the indicator went out while twisting the throttle … after which the motor engaged with quite the firm jolt. I’m sure that was very healthy for my belt.

Probably related to the previous issue is that almost each time I come to a full stop (75~80% of the time) the ‘armed’ indicator goes out for about one~two seconds. During that time, the engine won’t engage. If I didn’t notice and wanted to make a stop and go, I get a ‘High Throttle’ (error code: 1) error which even lengthens the duration I must wait until everything kicks in again.



Then there are some issues relating to the Zero app itself:
- Home View/Statistics mode: While the bike's model and year, SOC and other values are displayed, the "Time to Full Charge" is always 0:00 while charging.
- Home View/Riding Mode: All the available selections for the riding screen remain at their initial values as displayed when the Home View first switched from Statistics mode to Riding Mode. They never change when riding. Torque, kWatts and battery amps remain at zero (see also the video), temperature remains at the values when started and the same goes for time/distance to empty. Time only updates sporadically.
- When I remove the bike from the kickstand and set the killswitch to ON, the app switches correctly to Riding Mode. But switching back to Statistics mode I need to close the app, turn off my bike and !maybe! I’m back to statistics mode when I start them again. This usually takes several tries … if I get it at all. In case you were wondering: yes, killswitch is set to OFF and kickstand is down.
- I've set the units to metric in the Drive Setup screen; this displays the temperature correctly in Celcius but for torque the units are still displayed in Ft-Lbs instead of Nm
- I can’t easily set the ICE bike comparison values because the app only accepts a point as decimal symbol an refuses to accept my local setting of comma as decimal symbol


Are these upstart issues for a new model, all due to my ineptitude or did I buy a lemon?
I absolutely love the bike and wouldn’t want to trade it back to an ICE bike for the world, but some of these issues do dampen the enthusiasm a bit.  :'(

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