ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

hello, another good and beautiful story to tell with this motorcycle.
It hasn't been very long since I noticed a clicking sound on the left side swing arm, when applying pressure with both hands.
today I removed the 2 sides of the so-called bearings, (I would say bearings), well not a bit of grease, on the other hand, on the oxidation side, it's average, I just cleaned everything and regreased it well, the noise has disappeared, that doesn't surprise me at all.
the suspension seems much more flexible and silent to me (you surprise me).
I really bought a Friday night motorcycle, or does Zero sell his motorcycles like that?
I hope they put some in the steering column bearings???
from surprise to surprise with this motorcycle
the photos of the construction site (the next one I buy, I will ask the question if the grease is an option too).

Hi
thanks for the info.
https://zero-cms-disco.cdn.prismic.io/zero-cms-disco/8204c2dc-0852-4458-ba70-0a4ebddb0f5d_Release+Notes+2.7.24+Cypher+III+MY24+MBB+REV+36_+BMU+REV+14+and+BMS+REV+25+%282%29.pdf

Hi, I had almost all of your problems.
To begin with, I replaced the brakes with EBC, the problem is permanently resolved.
for the insulation problems, I removed the controller, I found 2 anomalies, seals incorrectly replaced on a connector which had almost come out of its housing, trace of water in the bus bars.
every winter, I had to take it back to my bad mechanic, now it's over, the bike is no longer guaranteed, I do everything myself.
There is no risk of electric shock or short circuit if all contact fuse components are deactivated.
my bike has 40,000 kms, I just have the new CCM of the 2022 model to activate, I'm waiting for the nice weather to make a trip to the Tours dept37 mechanic in France.
really sorry for you

Since both Zero and Gates say that the app is a better way to tune the belt, why not do it that way?

yes it's true, I agree with you.
but when you break your belt even though you are sure of the tension and alignment, you ask yourself a lot of questions.
I even questioned all my mechanical skills.
but what did I do wrong??? lol
my bmw 1200rt has 150,000 kms, and for example, I rebuilt the gearbox this summer.
I never had any mechanical problems after intervention, except for this damn belt.
also I wonder if there really was a batch of poor quality belts.

I'm going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one.

For two years, my SRS had no problem in rain. And I rode in rain... A LOT. Probably as much or more than any one else, because of where I live. Recently, and shortly after warranty expired, after a heavy rain it had the Isolation Fault until it dried out, and I couldn't charge the battery. Then it happened again in very light rain. As a simple exploration as to what could be done, I stuffed grocery bags around the chargers power connections and particularly at the front behind the plastic cover that has the horn facing out of it, in case water thrown by the front wheel was going in where the chargers are, or perhaps down into where the BMS board is. This did not help so I took them back out. Last week it happened again and I was left at work with just barely enough to get home, and unable to charge there due to the pack being ineligible due to the faults. I had to ride all the way home at 40mph in heavy rain on a high speed highway to get back, ducking off into the emergency lane when cars went by to try to be safer. At home I aimed an electric leaf blower into the front of the bike where the horn is, and let it run for 30 minutes. Then I could clear the faults and charge. The way the faults manifested was I could clear them, and they might come back, but sometimes they didn't. Then when I tried to charge, after about two seconds of charging the fault would re-occur. Also curiously if I turned on the right blinker it worked fine, but the left blinker would set a code that a light was out or something, even though it worked fine. The light housing were dry inside and I also blew out the handlebar control with compressed air but it didnt help. I also made sure the fuses and wiring around the 12v battery were dry, and disconnected my accessories in case they were in issue. None of that was the problem.

So I'm thinking... what changed? What degraded? Looking at the exploded diagram of the battery pack I see there is a potential entry point where the cabling goes in to the BMS at the top front of the pack. At the back of the pack, there is a cable assy that enters the pack from the top too, I suppose connecting to the chargers as it goes out the top, and that brings charger power into the pack and out to the motor controller at the bottom of the bike. The part number for this cabling assy is 12-08163 "Power Bus Hardware Service Assembly".

Now... where it goes in from the top it passes through an aperture with foam as a seal, in the manner of weather-stripping. Foam degrades. Except for the drying potentially of some waterproofing grease that may or may not have been applied when the bike was assembled, nothing has changed or could have changed. But foam definitely degrades over time.

My theory is the water is entering from the top, at the back. The front I already tried stuffing that full of bags and it didn't work. I even set the code with a gentle rinse with a hose while washing the bike and didnt squirt water in that area at all.

If you have any ideas or input feel free to chime in. What Im going to do to test this is stuff as many plastic grocery bags as possible into this area at the back where the charger wires go down, so no water spray can get in there, and see what happens. If that works, I will probably follow up with a heavy application of silicon sealer all over the top seam of the battery at the rear.

Hi, have you solved your insulation problem?
the same for me, I drove for 6 months in the rain, the mechanic had changed the high voltage bus bars.
and there it starts again, I'm thinking of dismantling the controller and the 2 bus bars, and changing the seals and O-rings but certainly not zero parts.

hello, what is the recommended tension for an srs with the kikrit for the belt.
for those who tighten their own belts, do you do it with the wheel on the ground or on the central stand?
I think we have to do it with the bike on the ground, because I've already broken 2 of them.
however the belt has always been well aligned, and tensioned between 62 Hz - 82 Hz (70 Hz in my case).
Thank you for your advice and answers.

if I remember, there are 3 sons who arrive at the ccm.
I already thought about doing it, but my bike is still guaranteed grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
I have a pdf on the starcom module, and I think I have found the positive son +, it will only be tried when the time comes, as a last resort.
whoever finds the origin of the problem will make the engineers from zero look like dummies lol

attached the link of the pdf of the helios starcom module

https://transfert.free.fr/PUxKkp1

when i see the photos of the workshop and the mess that reigns there, i'm not surprised that my sr/s breaks down constantly.

in france at present, it is not possible to have a 3 k/w charger to repair mine grrrrrrrrrrr
super bike, but lousy sav