ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Hi,

I just bought the Sevcon interface, should be in my hands in a few days    (model 1.01.0088.XXXXX V 1.5) and was wondering if any of you are familiar with the RJ45-OBD2 cable/connections setting. I have also bought this cable, but I suspect it might not be set properly for the controller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251297969964?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have checked the forum information as well as from other members -Thanks evtricity- and there seems to be only information related to Serial DB9 to OBD2, not RJ45

Your help is appreciated!

I'm selling out a Zero MX 2010 Chassis.
The chassis is in good condition. It is located in Barcelona/Spain

Will email more pictures if you are interested.

These are not manufactured anymore, so it might not be a bad idea to have it as a spare

Price is $250 + shipping
Paypal

I was lucky enough to be invited to a dealer presentation and being able to drive the new S 2013, and the 2013 FX.

You may summarize this is one word:

AMAZING!

The bikes are all knew, silent, nicer, more powerful, practical, and far more efficient. Our friends have done a great job in the motor development -have not seen anything like this in the industry so far.

Undoubtedly Zero is becoming the worldwide choice in the electric bikes industry

I'm seriously thinking in purchasing the new FX, what it makes me worried is that the std. onboard charger is too small (around 600-700W), and it takes almost 7.5 hours to charge the 5.7Kw model . I believe it should get minimum 1KW, ideally the ones on the S line 1,3Kw...
Thoughts?

I know there was a discussion about this topic a few weeks ago, and I was wondering if any improvements have been made.

Offthegrid: Have you been able to get any improvement after the controller change/software twisting?

Hello all,

As I mentioned last week in a different thread I'm making a front braking upgrade. As a few of you pointed out the front brake system in our S models is "nothing to write home about" so I have decided to improve it myself.
I apologize for the technical words. It is very difficult for me to explain/describe the process in proper English. Sorry about that 

Current front brake-system weaknesses

- Stopping power is available at a very high lever pressure, confidence is limited...
- Brake lever has no adjustment (if you have a small hand...)
- Brake pads -although sintered- have a very small contact section on the disk and need a long break-in process.
- Disk quality
- Brake calliper & pump have limited power (low cost design)
- Brake calliper + pads have an annoying flexion/noise (a kind of "clock, clock) because of its original design which makes riding unpleasant.

Components Cost

- Brembo 16X18 Radial pump 190 Euros (long lever + brake switch)
- Brembo 4 piston Axial calliper 248 Euros
- Custom made 320mm disk 265 Euros
- Front suspension new spring + tuning 175 Euros
- Brake calliper bracket/support (around 200-250 Euros)
TOTAL    1.100 Euros aprox.

Challenges

- Will not change the front suspension to keep budget within reasonable (although it would allow us to install Radial callipers) -cost would be 3X of original budget-
- Front suspension has a "soft" feeling, will have to change the spring, oil, and settings.
- The new Brembo axial calliper will require a customized "bracket" or support to hold it properly/safely to the fork
- Almost custom made disk will be needed

This is a basic components picture (bracket/support not included -it will be made tomorrow!)


I will give you further details in the next thread (installation/mounting, achieved improvements)

Hello all,

I thought it was a good idea to start this thread. let's see if we can come up with some good ideas...

- Wear high quality and "motorcycle" design clothing whenever possible (not "loosing" jackets). Safety is also important...
- Tucking or wind deflectors...you decide
- Charging. Try to plan your charging as much as you can...although Zero recommends to keep always the bike plugged, I disagree with that...it is far better to ride right after the charge has finished -and you save some little money-
- Tires pressure. Check them before every ride. Manufacturer's max. tire pressure is 41 psi. I personally run them at 48 psi (cold), but this something you may do at your own risk.
- Avoid windy days 
- Try to ride at 50-55 mph as much as you can, anything above this will reduce range considerable.
- Keep an eye on the throttle. This is not a IC bike, and, your riding style, should change dramatically...just relax, and enjoy.
- I practically see no range difference between Sport/Eco mode, unless you are going downhill...then Eco mode should be the choice
- Coasting, versus braking? and yes, you save some money in brake pads 
- Try to ride at good warm temperature whenever possible. Lithium batteries -as other ones- do not appreciate cold weather. 68-77 Fahrenheit is a good number.

Any other ideas?

Do you know if Zero is experiencing any delivery delays on these models?

I have ordered one since quite a few weeks -In Spain- and still today the local dealer is not able to give me an specific date...which is not nice as I was told to be the first customer in Spain ordering one