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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: SebfromBE on October 10, 2018, 04:21:37 PM

Title: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: SebfromBE on October 10, 2018, 04:21:37 PM
Hi all,

Since I already snapped one belt with my S 2017 after 4500km, I was looking a bit at the options to buy a spare on the AF1 website here:
https://www.af1racing.com/

And it seems that the 2017 S (13kWh variant) is kind of an "in-between" model:
All other 2017 models (including the half battery 6.5kWh) seems to have upgraded to the wider belt
while the 2017 S model remained with the older 14mm wide belt.

Of course I kind just buy a few spare of that 14mm wide version (it is actually quite cheap!). But was wondering if exchanging the drive belt and sprockets to the new wide belt variant would be just a mater of swapping the pieces.

Would there be anything to reconfigure in the controller (since for instance speed is read out from motor rev, I could imagine changing sprocket size would change speed calibration. Or the old vs new gear setting lead to in fact an equal rotation vs speed relationship.


On the parts catalog on the website, both 14 and 17mm versions are listed for that model...

Anybody thought or did something like that?

Thanks,

Seb
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: DPsSRnSD on October 10, 2018, 07:13:35 PM
I suspect that whatever is the cause of the belt failure you experienced would not be fully prevented with a wider belt, unless you're doing jumps or hitting large pot holes. Make sure the new belt has been installed straight and with the correct tension. Make sure there is no debris in the teeth of the sprockets. If you are riding on gravel roads or in places with heavy road construction, check the sprockets for little rocks every chance you get. I've also had those little rocks jam the hard stops on my forks, preventing me from being able to lock the bike. Also look for debris if you follow or pass by large trucks with a visible wake and if you ride in the rain.
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: Shadow on October 10, 2018, 08:09:24 PM
Motor shaft is also different (?) so would need to swap that motor to use new wider design of pinion. Dealer needs to program and commission for 2016+. Can (and has by others I've seen) be done.

The old-style belt lasts longer than dealer-only program/commission service interval, which is more of a concern in my experience. Anyone can replace a belt and AF1Racing is easy to mail order parts from.

P.S. If you want to be certain about the motor shaft you should confirm what is on your own bike
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: SebfromBE on October 12, 2018, 04:03:37 PM
Thanks for your replies!

Well if motor shat is involved, then for sure that's a bit too involved for what I had in mind.

As you suggest => Just stock a few belt just in case :-)  will remain much cheaper than possible gain!
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: dennis-NL on October 12, 2018, 04:57:56 PM
Thanks for your replies!

Well if motor shat is involved, then for sure that's a bit too involved for what I had in mind.

As you suggest => Just stock a few belt just in case :-)  will remain much cheaper than possible gain!


And would be nice if new Zero's would have 1 side rear wheel mount so replacing is easy!
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: SebfromBE on October 12, 2018, 07:04:52 PM
A single swing arm would also look much cooler :-)

But typically this should go with a sizing up of the bike itself  ;D (previous owner of a good old Triumph speed triple here :-) )
Title: Re: Belt type change on a 2017 S
Post by: Richard230 on October 12, 2018, 07:49:06 PM
Last weekend I replaced the rear squared-off Avon Slipmaster II tire on my Royal Enfield with a new Dunflop K70.  (Who knew they still made those things?   :o  )  On that bike I was able to remove the rear wheel from its rubber shock vanes while the entire chain drive and rear brake assembly stayed in place on the bike. When replacing the wheel, no adjustment of the chain tension or fumbling with multiple spacers was needed and the entire process only took a couple of minutes to both remove and replace the rear wheel. Really easy. It reminded me of the similar setups that most motorcycles had during the 1960's - or in this case, the 1950's when the original design was developed. But you sure don't see that arrangement any more. I guess it is part of the effort to cut manufacturing costs and unsprung weight and has gone the way of grease fittings on swing arm bearings and steering bearings and oil drain screws on front forks.  :(

It appears to me that the modern motorcycle manufacturers' design concept is to have you buy a motorcycle, run it with little maintenance and then when it stops running just buy a new one and start over again.  ::)  Kind of reminds me of smart phones.  ;)