ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Doctorbass on June 26, 2017, 09:14:30 AM
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Hey guys let say you want BOTH of these options ;)
But only have ... in fact: ONE tank ???
So... It is way too complicated to Split the Battery in two half and to put it under the bike... So the powertank MUST remain inside the tank....
And... this leave only ONE option: Where the hell to put the Diginow SuperCharger on the bike and keep it "hidden"
I know Luke had fit manu 3.3kW modules around the bike.. but I still dis not found any images left ...
Doc
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remove factory charger.
make custom aluminum skidplate that doubles as heatsink.
mount 4 supercharger modules in place.
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remove factory charger.
make custom aluminum skidplate that doubles as heatsink.
mount 4 supercharger modules in place.
You will never get 4 in the place of the onboard unless you double stack and you are willing to lose a lot of ground clearance. Three will fit but if you want the third to sit flush with the other two you will need to mill some heatsink fins on the motor.
Luke has three in tank and three in place of the onboard. If you have side cases you can mount on the inside of the mount rack. I don't think there are any other options for hiding chargers.
Pretty much the only reason Luke can get away without active cooling on chargers in place of onboard is that he is charging with so much power he finishes before any of the charge modules go into thermal cutback....and he is right on the border....with "only" three modules in place of the onboard and no active cooling thermal management is going to be an issue.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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remove factory charger.
make custom aluminum skidplate that doubles as heatsink.
mount 4 supercharger modules in place.
Thanks for your suggestion. However is the 1.3k charger the ony one that is controlled by the BMS?
The 8KW or more charger need to be connected on the controller with the key ON to work as i understood..?
And higher than about 80A charging on the port on a 100A fuse is not recommanded) and as well charging thru controlelr connections is not controlled by the BMS ( with the BMS ON signal and throttle engage signal) or something similar?... or make charge current to not be protected for HVC, high temp battery and other safety that the regular 1.3K charger is?
So I tought that the base 1.3kW cahrger needed to remain there for the signal and CANbus to be detected etc...?
Can someone confirm?
Doc
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You don't need onboard. You have two options to start charging.
1. Plug in onboard and once Contactor is closed plug in DigiNow.
2. Key bike ON, plug in DigiNow, once charging starts (fans turn on) the bike can be keyed off.
The DigiNow uses enable signal so it can keep contactor closed but it can't initiate closing. The Zero charge tank works the same way.
If you charge through controller terminals you are bypassing the 100amp fuse but you still have contactor between charger and Battery so the BMS can stop charging by opening the contactor.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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Yes , thats what i tought.
Thanks for confirming!
I just tought that without the 1.3kW charger present, that the bike MBB could detect the no presense and make error code that prevent the bike to not operate...
Doc
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remove factory charger.
make custom aluminum skidplate that doubles as heatsink.
mount 4 supercharger modules in place.
This is what I did.
I have both a powertank, and 4 superchargers under the bike. 13,200 watts of charging with a 45 minute run time before thermal power cutback, which is perfect to match my usual charge time
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I thought I had a better picture or one with the pan installed but this is the only one I could find.
Surely very very easy you could mount 2 superchargers down the middle and have the pan go deeper and still keep plenty of cornering clearance.
This is just 1/8" or 0.125 aluminum I bent and cut holes in for the wires to come out the sides
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Thanks Terry! that picture worth thousand words!
So you dont have the heatsink and fans as i see the white poting inside?
Doc
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Right the units are potted so I removed the top cover, although on 2017 long brick bikes the battery ribbing underneath isn't needed as the plate is stronger already because there isn't a bus bar under the long bricks which took up space on the 4 cell box version. Also the aluminum pan acts as my heatsink and can help pull heat for about 45 minutes before the chargers start to cut back. This is actually fine for me, but I will add some cooling fans and channel I can add when I stop if I will be charging many bikes back to back without riding to cool the pan down (as I did yesterday at Laguna - the chargers ran for 5 hours straight and got cooled with water running down the pan)
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I know I was there, but I missed the water cooling setup. Any pics of that?
One thing that is nice about the onboard is plugging into 110V when its convenient.
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I know I was there, but I missed the water cooling setup. Any pics of that?
One thing that is nice about the onboard is plugging into 110V when its convenient.
you just pour water on it. boom. watercooled.
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One thing that is nice about the onboard is plugging into 110V when its convenient.
Each charging module of DigiNow SCv2 will scale the load with the input voltage, i.e. approximate maximum 16A at 120Vac suppl and 32A at 240Vac supply. You would need to connect only one module, but it does what you want.
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Side view of 13,200 watt charger skidpan. Charging cables not hooked up yet.
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I'm more in favor of the "Boxer" configuration with one module per side bolted to the lower frame, but SCv2 cabling isn't quite long enough to traverse the battery without strain risk, so I may put two on one side and SCv1 on the other to balance the weight somewhat.
In any case, a bunch of cradle aluminum brackets for mounting the SCv2 would be useful for a lot of users, for the under-belly or side options.
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One thing that is nice about the onboard is plugging into 110V when its convenient.
Each charging module of DigiNow SCv2 will scale the load with the input voltage, i.e. approximate maximum 16A at 120Vac suppl and 32A at 240Vac supply. You would need to connect only one module, but it does what you want.
That's good, but isn't 16A a little high for a 15 Amp circuit?
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16A would ... well, Should use a 20 amp plug
They do exist...
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I should say that the real question is whether, when installing a high-powered charger, if a Power Tank is already installed with large lugs attached to the battery-controller terminals, how to make room for lugs for the charger. They'll probably stack with sufficient threading, but the cables need room to route without strain or excessive bending.
Because you're going to need to exceed the Accessory Charging Port's limits to charge at more than 0.7C if you have a Power Tank.
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And what about the evtricity solution ?
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6781.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6781.0)
6.6kw external charger. No need to modify anything, it's plug and play...
Used it yesterday (stored in my topcase), it's awesome and very easy to use. Got 8kW from 0 to 90%
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And what about the evtricity solution ?
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6781.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6781.0)
6.6kw external charger. No need to modify anything, it's plug and play...
Used it yesterday (stored in my topcase), it's awesome and very easy to use. Got 8kW from 0 to 90%
In fact i used that solution since 4 years now ;) with 6.6kw meanwell on my 2012. that was nice.. but the fact that they are not waterproof and not ready to use is bugging me. I had severe rain during long trip and cahrging with so intense rain is not very safe with air cooled no IP65 circuit. Waterproof charger is a real advantage!
Doc
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You are right !
for waterproof usage, you have to make a box to protect the charger. Not so difficult with a small topcase (to simplify transport), but true, not ready to use out of the box ;)
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Last summer i have tried building a " waterproof" case for the 3 air cooled meanwell and I failed.
I built an aluminum box to stack all 3x 2000W Meanwell inside the tank area that had a calculated maze to trap and drain any water intrusion but to keep correct airflow but after an hour of full power charging, one of the PSU blown after overheating witch disapointed me alot!! I worked so hard and ingeneered everyting as i could and not laeving any doubt and kept a safe margin on all parameters with thermal management and airflow.
I spent like 5 days designing and building and testig it then the day just before to begin my trip it blew!! :o :-\
The idea was to not have to get all the 3 PSU out of the bag, make connections and watch for rain.. on every stop for charging.. I was dreaming of a simple J1772 plug on the top o fthe case to connect and that's it....
Doc
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didnt tried yet, but my idea was to take some commercial parts.
A simple givi topcase (because ive already the plate to mount it)
like this
https://www.motoblouz.com/vente-top-case-givi-b27-monolock-51327.html (https://www.motoblouz.com/vente-top-case-givi-b27-monolock-51327.html)
drill for in and out cables, add rubber to have a soft hermetic box
Add in the lower part a grid like this
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/grille-d-aeration-aluminium-anodise-l-17-x-l-17-cm-e18156 (https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/grille-d-aeration-aluminium-anodise-l-17-x-l-17-cm-e18156)
If not enough, i think about add a fan to extract hot air
but most important is that evtricity charger is fan cooled, so, i dont think its necessary
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Last summer i have tried building a " waterproof" case for the 3 air cooled meanwell and I failed.
I built an aluminum box to stack all 3x 2000W Meanwell inside the tank area that had a calculated maze to trap and drain any water intrusion but to keep correct airflow but after an hour of full power charging, one of the PSU blown after overheating witch disapointed me alot!! I worked so hard and ingeneered everyting as i could and not laeving any doubt and kept a safe margin on all parameters with thermal management and airflow.
I spent like 5 days designing and building and testig it then the day just before to begin my trip it blew!! :o :-\
For this reason, I'm a little wary of someone buying off the shelf computer power supplies and treating "non-weather-rated charger in a watertight box with a lid" as equivalent to a weather-rated charger. These are absolutely not the same thing.
There's enough variability in how owners install their chargers, route the cables, and secure the connectors to add risk to what we do that saving money on equipment not rated for the environment seems unwise.
To their credit, EVTricity's chargers are (seemingly) closer to off-the-shelf so might theoretically benefit from replacements in the field. But we should make sure not to mislead someone into a frustrating mid-trip breakdown or fault that damages their bike's systems.
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I would like to hear from anyone who uses both the Evtricity and Diginow systems, how these two vendors and their power charging solutions are compared?