ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: JaimeC on May 03, 2016, 03:21:19 AM
-
Okay, as long as I'm on a roll asking "stupid questions," might as well go with another one.
I'd read the hollow tube in the rear frame is for storing the charging cord when it isn't in use. There are actually TWO hollow tubes, one in the frame under the seat, and one in the swingarm. Neither one has any kind of a "cap" to seal it off, so I can easily envision the cord sliding out and getting dumped on the road somewhere. Am I just being paranoid or is this a serious concern? Are there "caps" available to give me peace of mind?
Right now I just leave the cord in the garage plugged into an outlet. When I come home, I just plug the other end into the bike.
Thanks in advance,
-
The hollow tube has some bumps that have always kept my cord in place. But the design did change recently (15/16 model years), and I also have switched to just throwing the cord in either the tank storage bin or my top case so it doesn't bend so much/often. Once you decide to use a bin, just bring a secured spare if it bothers you. I've never had a cable get away from me, although I "retired" my 3-year old cable from the 13DS to the garage since it was getting a little softer from use.
The cord is very easily replaceable from Monoprice (25ft example, but shorter ones are available and nice alternatives): http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5295 (http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5295)
-
The tubes can be used for lots of things. I use one or both to pass a cable through to lock the bike. I also use them to pass the charging cord through to keep it off the ground if it's coming from the other side. I just realized I might be able to pass the lower strap for by bike cover through them because under the bike hasn't worked out. I didn't like shoving the charging cord into the smaller tube. It fits nicely in the swing arm tube, but on principle I don't want the added weight there.
-
The tube in the frame has very sharp edges and I actually sliced my finger in there. It also scraped some rubber off the charge cord. I store mine in the swingarm which is smooth and it sits there just fine. I also keep my cell phone in the gap between the storage container and the "bucket" or whatever they call it. It's in there good and tight and I can easily pull it out without having to search around in the container.
-
Since the cords are so cheap, just keep a spare folded up in the swingarm tube and leave it there. Keep leaving the other one plugged in at home to keep it quick and easy to plug in.
this way, you wont get stuck somewhere without it, and its not an additional hassle. well worth the $5 or so the cable cost.
-
Since the cords are so cheap, just keep a spare folded up in the swingarm tube and leave it there. Keep leaving the other one plugged in at home to keep it quick and easy to plug in.
this way, you wont get stuck somewhere without it, and its not an additional hassle. well worth the $5 or so the cable cost.
Now THAT sounds like a capital idea!
-
and if you're worried that the cord will fall out, you could also use something like this.
https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-verstelbaar-60mm (https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-verstelbaar-60mm)
or this
https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-60 (https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-60)
The diameter of the hole in the frame is 60mm exact, so these will probably fit
If you don't use the threaded one, be sure to have something around to remove the cap, otherwise you're still stuck without a charge cord ;D
-
Every way I've folded the power cord it's been so tight in the tube that it wouldn't ever come out without a good tug; and nothing other than pulling it out is going to generate that kind of force. Maybe some extreme accident, where you get destroyed going 70mph, but at that point a charge cord is the least of your worries, in fact you probably don't have any worries at that point.
-
But would it survive a 17 mile trip at 70 mph on our LOVELY, poorly-maintained highways... that's my worry. :P That generates an awful lot of vibration, especially on the swingarm that is working overtime to keep the fillings in my teeth from rattling out...
-
But would it survive a 17 mile trip at 70 mph on our LOVELY, poorly-maintained highways... that's my worry. :P
Yes, it does. None of that produces large lateral forces; pretty much the only lateral forces that could knock out the cord are also going to really ruin your day.
-
I bought a handlebar storage bag in the bicycle aisle of target. $10 and it fits the cord,brake lock,my neck garter, and still has room for other small things.
-
When I got my bike, I immediately removed the cord from the hole in the frame and have kept it in the tank bag ever since. I wasn't concerned about losing it, since the fit seemed quite tight (and as Brian pointed out the lateral forces on a motorcycle are very small), what I was concerned about were several flat spots that had already developed on the cable. I just can't imagine it's a good idea to cram the cord into a tight spot like that and vibrate it for thousands of miles over the years.
-
Since the cords are so cheap... Blah, blah, blah, well worth the $5 or so the cable cost.
Really? Where can I find cheap parts besides going through the dealer?
-
Since the cords are so cheap... Blah, blah, blah, well worth the $5 or so the cable cost.
Really? Where can I find cheap parts besides going through the dealer?
It's a standard PC or Kettle cord.. just be sure any replacement cable is 14awg or bigger (lower nbr) the 18awg 6ft cables get warm.
-
Thank you.
-
Since the cords are so cheap... Blah, blah, blah, well worth the $5 or so the cable cost.
Really? Where can I find cheap parts besides going through the dealer?
Here, at Monoprice (linking again): http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5295 (http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5295)
-
Thanks Brian, that's a great price.
-
What is the size of the stock power cord? 14awg?
-
What is the size of the stock power cord? 14awg?
Yes. Always use 14AWG maximum 25ft. At home I use a 25ft 12AWG extension cord and plug in a short 3ft 14AWG charge cable. The setup allows me to unplug the "wall" side first without walking over to the wall. [emoji1]
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
-
The other day, when visiting my daughter, I melted the plug end of her orange 25' extension cord that I was connected to with my 8' 14-gauge power cord. I had been using that power source for the past 2 years without any problems, but this time the connection plugs melted together and they had to be cut to pull them apart. (Fortunately there was no problem with the bike, though. It was fully charged when we discovered the problem.) I just replaced my power cord with one rated for 15 amps, which I assume uses 12 gauge wire. I guess I will have to give my daughter a 12 gauge extension cord the next time I visit. :-[
-
The other day, when visiting my daughter, I melted the plug end of her orange 25' extension cord that I was connected to with my 8' 14-gauge power cord. I had been using that power source for the past 2 years without any problems, but this time the connection plugs melted together and they had to be cut to pull them apart. (Fortunately there was no problem with the bike, though. It was fully charged when we discovered the problem.) I just replaced my power cord with one rated for 15 amps, which I assume uses 12 gauge wire. I guess I will have to give my daughter a 12 gauge extension cord the next time I visit. :-[
I remember you posting about that a week or two ago and I was gonna say something but since you said you had been doing it for years without a problem I figured you would be unlikely to take any advice I gave recommending to not do that...I'm glad you didn't do any damage to your bike.
A huge mistake that even experienced EE's make when working with electronics is assuming that just because something works it means its OK. This is definitely not the case.
The stock Zero charge cable is an IEC320 C13 to NEMA 5-15P. Most would recognize it as a "computer power cord" because this type of cable is heavily used for tower PC's. For the non engineer/electricians out there...C13 is the connector type on the side that plugs into the bike and NEMA 5-15P is the connector on the wall side. I have not been able to find a cable of this type longer than 25ft at 14AWG. I have not been able to find a 12AWG of any length for this cable type. Your 15amp rated charge cord means its a 14AWG.
The trouble you are going to run into is if you try to use an IEC320 C13 to NEMA 5-15P that is smaller than 14AWG (there are lots of those out there) or if you use a 14AWG but plug it into an extension cord that is 14AWG but longer than 25ft or is smaller than 14AWG. If you are using an extension cord (NEMA 5-15R to NEMA 5-15P...R for receptacle and P for plug) then I highly recommend using no smaller than 12AWG. In theory you could use a 14AWG cord as long as the combined length between your charge cord and the extension cord is no more than 25ft but I would just stick to 12AWG unless you are in a pinch and other options are not available. Even if you are using a 12AWG extension cord I wouldn't go as long as 50ft even if you are using a 3ft 14AWG charge cord. You should be OK with a 25ft 12AWG extension cord and an 8ft charge cord....I wouldn't go any longer than than 8ft on the charge cord if you are using a 25ft extension cable.
At home I use a 25ft 12AWG extension cord plugged into a 3ft 14AWG charge cord. Zero recommends unplugging the bike from the wall first and this lets me kinda do that. When I plug in I plug the small 3ft charge cord into the bike first and then plug it into the extension cord which I leave plugged into the wall. When I unplug I go in reverse...I separate the 3ft charge cord from the extension cord then unplug the 3ft charge cord from the bike.
-
One other thing that is common sense to me but I remember someone else on here posting about learning the hard way so it bears repeating...
DO NOT USE RETRACTABLE EXTENSION CORD REELS!!!
Technically you could use one as long as you make sure it is completely extended but I highly recommend against it unless you are in a pinch and have no other options. If you have to use one I would keep a close eye on it during the charge process.
No matter what size cable you are using that reel WILL overheat due to the cord being all bunched up without anyway to carry away the heat.
-
I thought I'd point out that the wire gauge isn't the only consideration. In fact, in Richard's case, where the connectors fused together after years of working properly, it sounds more like it was a bad connection that heated up rather than the wires themselves.
Try to avoid bending the blades of the male connector whenever possible. They're fairly well annealed brass but they will eventually fatigue. I like to see them bent inward slightly; that gives a little bit of pressure between the blade and the socket which helps provide a low-resistance connection. Also keep an eye on the strain relief on the backside of the connector, that's where I've seen most failures in my day, and where my SR's cord failed. If you see cracks starting to appear, you might want to replace the cord or at least get a backup so you won't be left without one when it fails. Be sure to always grab the molded part of the connector when disconnecting, rather than yanking on the cord. Especially when the cable is warm and soft, that's a great way of pulling it apart.
-
I thought I'd point out that the wire gauge isn't the only consideration. In fact, in Richard's case, where the connectors fused together after years of working properly, it sounds more like it was a bad connection that heated up rather than the wires themselves.
Agreed....this is a very good point. There are other factors such as connections...however, smaller gauge wire adds heat to the equation and although Richard's problem may have been from a bad connection it would have been made worse by using the smaller gauge.
Voltage is also a factor. If you are running off 120V then it's more important to use 14AWG charge cord. If you are running off 240V then you can get away with the smaller wire. Even the difference between 110V vs. 120V can cause the charger to require more current (at the lower voltage) and thus create more heat. It's possible that Richard's problem was because the grid was just taxed that day causing the voltage at the outlet to sag and the weakest link in the chain (the connection between charge cord and extension cord) paid the price.
Bottom line...the easiest way to mitigate these issues is to use a good cable. If you use a good cable of the proper gauge you are less likely to suffer the consequences of other factors like bad connections or low supply voltage.
-
Wikified/cited under "Common problems", since both stock and replacement cords need the same recommendations:
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Common_problems#Stuck.2FWarm_Charging_Cord (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Common_problems#Stuck.2FWarm_Charging_Cord)
-
I store the cable under the seat. There is room enough. But you have to convert your seat into a quick removable seat first
-
I am pretty sure that the problem was corrosion of the female connector on my daughter's garage extension cord. It has been hanging in the garage for years, although she keeps her 2012 Zero plugged into that cord all the time. It only gets disconnected when I visit and recharge my bike. (Of course her 2012 model draws fewer amps than my charger does.) I am a little concerned that her husband is insisting on cutting off the connector and rewiring it. I told him that I would buy a new extension cord for them, but he is not happy unless he can fix something that is broken and he loves to solder wire connections. ::)
The new power cord that I bought from Amazon is two meters long, was made in the UK, and seems to be of a heavier gauge wire than the one that came with my Zero that melted at the male end. In any case, I have several 14 gauge extension cords, one that I use for my 12 amp electric mower. Hopefully, I will be able to bring one of my extra cords over to my daughter before her husband starts using the repaired extension cord to power his circular saw. :o
One interesting thing is that my Kill-a-Watt meter shows that my garage wall outlet is putting out 122 volts. When I used it at my daughter's home, it registered 118 volts. Curiously, at my home my Zero will initially stop charging at an indicated 98% and then turn back on 30 hours later, when it will reach 100%. At my daughter's house, it hits an indicated 100% as soon as the bike quits charging. ???
-
Just this week the c13 connector of the cable that I have been using for 4.5 years melted. I don't use an extension cord; just the cable that came with bike. I am guessing that the connector degraded after years of use. It got hot enough to damage the bike power receptacle.
-
Just this week the c13 connector of the cable that I have been using for 4.5 years melted. I don't use an extension cord; just the cable that came with bike. I am guessing that the connector degraded after years of use. It got hot enough to damage the bike power receptacle.
That sucks. Do you suspect an overcurrent or just wear on the contacts in the plug and receptacle?
-
I am pretty sure that the problem was corrosion of the female connector on my daughter's garage extension cord. It has been hanging in the garage for years, ...
A bad connection is the biggest thing, I think. I should have replaced my cable when I noticed it was touchy- it flickered a bit if you touched it. Later I found the outlet melted a bit. Immediately I threw the cable away, replaced the outlet, and it's been charging fine. But ever since then I always check for heat, and I take any warmth or connection touchiness seriously.
-
I posted this photo on the original thread, but I will attach it here too.
-
What is the size of the stock power cord? 14awg?
Yes. Always use 14AWG maximum 25ft. At home I use a 25ft 12AWG extension cord and plug in a short 3ft 14AWG charge cable. The setup allows me to unplug the "wall" side first without walking over to the wall. [emoji1]
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Check this cable out:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-PWD-401-Piggyback-5-15P-Power/dp/B002USI1GU/
If you only have one outlet, you can charge, e.g., a phone at the same time you charge your bike!
Says it's 15 AWG.
-
It's a bit short though, and with the exposed contacts I wouldn't recommend it for outdoors use.
I also ordered a new set of cables to replace the OEM cable with. Instead of providing a Schuko cable they give you a US pronged cable with an adapter, which was a bit of a disappointment to be honest. On the other hand using a C14 inlet for their bikes is really good, you can get kettle leads on about every street corner.
Anyway got a 5 and 10 meter cable, and because everything is 230V here I can settle for a 10A model which makes them less bulky.
-
and if you're worried that the cord will fall out, you could also use something like this.
https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-verstelbaar-60mm (https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-verstelbaar-60mm)
or this
https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-60 (https://www.rvsland.nl/meubeldop-60)
The diameter of the hole in the frame is 60mm exact, so these will probably fit
If you don't use the threaded one, be sure to have something around to remove the cap, otherwise you're still stuck without a charge cord ;D
Or something like this? They also sell MANY different stick on emblems for these, as well as blank ones without the center hole. Or maybe a threaded rod with a knob on each end. I'm definitely going to measure carefully and try this out with my FX coming in a couple of days. (Woot! Can't wait!)
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFnGZt2psCkDqunMApaPBuhdt69-K3Zj7mt4nbf2rvQjNxZU2ApXhzhLn1sCtX628TMFwxHhM&usqp=CAE)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-60mm-Diameter-Black-SUV-Car-Wheel-Center-Covers-Cap-Rim-Hole-No-Logo-Hubcap-/231739505150?hash=item35f4c039fe:g:zw4AAOSw5VFWNwpm&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-60mm-Diameter-Black-SUV-Car-Wheel-Center-Covers-Cap-Rim-Hole-No-Logo-Hubcap-/231739505150?hash=item35f4c039fe:g:zw4AAOSw5VFWNwpm&vxp=mtr)
and http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Lightning-Bolt-Wheel-Center-Cap-3D-Domed-Set-of-4-Stickers-/290757225607?hash=item43b27b2c87:g:U0kAAOxyjP1R4Bv5&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Lightning-Bolt-Wheel-Center-Cap-3D-Domed-Set-of-4-Stickers-/290757225607?hash=item43b27b2c87:g:U0kAAOxyjP1R4Bv5&vxp=mtr)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/U0kAAOxyjP1R4Bv5/s-l400.jpg)
-
Or something like this? They also sell MANY different stick on emblems for these, as well as blank ones without the center hole. Or maybe a threaded rod with a knob on each end. I'm definitely going to measure carefully and try this out with my FX coming in a couple of days. (Woot! Can't wait!)
That is clever if you/we can make it fit. Do let us know!
-
Found these on Amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O)
Cheap enough, I ordered them and we'll see what happens.
-
I've had two 10' cables (the original and a replacement) fall out of the tube... I gave up and carry it in the bag. :)
-
Did they fall out of the frame tube or the swingarm tube, mine doesn't come out very easily (2013 s)
-
Did they fall out of the frame tube or the swingarm tube, mine doesn't come out very easily (2013 s)
Sorry, didn't see this. Out of the frame tube... the inside of the tube gets dusty and it lowers friction in the tube, is my theory. I blame California and the drought, in other words. :)
It's okay, I carry a 15' in the bag, I was never using the 10' anyway, it was just a spare.
-
Really? Did you have them sticking out of the tube? I just cant imagine a long folded cable ever just falling out of there.
-
Really? Did you have them sticking out of the tube? I just cant imagine a long folded cable ever just falling out of there.
Happened to me once on a hot day. Kickstand down, walked around town for a bit, and back on the bike just before I pulled away thought "weird someone left a charge cord on the ground looks a lot like mine."
It was mine. It had warmed up and slipped out of the tube 'cause of the angle of the bike with the kickstand down.
I still keep the cord in the frame tube but I roll it up a little different and check for its condition more regularly.
-
Well, my cord must have popped out on my way into work this morning...had been storing it in the swingarm hole like so many here seem to do...I'll have no trouble making it home on my current charge and have ordered a new cord which will arrive tomorrow, but in the meantime, my IT department has a drawer full of 18AWG PC power cords...could I get away with using one of those for a couple hours to top off today?
-
The cable should mention the max amperage.
-
Well, my cord must have popped out on my way into work this morning...had been storing it in the swingarm hole like so many here seem to do...I'll have no trouble making it home on my current charge and have ordered a new cord which will arrive tomorrow, but in the meantime, my IT department has a drawer full of 18AWG PC power cords...could I get away with using one of those for a couple hours to top off today?
18 gauge wire is much too light to handle a 13 amp current for very long. It will likely get very hot very quickly. But, if you have no other choice you might get away with using one in a pinch. Just have your asbestos gloves on and an electrical fire-rated extinguisher handy just in case you need to pull the plug and/or put out an insulation fire. :o It sounds like something that I might try, but not something that I would recommend that anyone else do. ::)
-
The cable should mention the max amperage.
It doesn't, as far as I can see. Prob not worth the risk since I can easily make it home on the charge I have and have a replacement cord coming tomorrow. The last thing I need to do is start a fire in my building's parking garage!
-
Oh snap forgot that you guys still run on 110V, doubling the current.
-
I've had two 10' cables (the original and a replacement) fall out of the tube... I gave up and carry it in the bag. :)
I lost my original cable yesterday on a ride from Hollywood Electrics (in pothole land) to Pasadena in rush hour, and I guess it fell out of the frame. I just ordered some spares from cableleader.com, a nearby company that has the 14 AWG cables in stock in multiple lengths so hopefully the package will arrive in a day or two (already shipped). Went on a futile attempt last night to find a cable from hardware and electronic stores last night but nobody had one thicker than 18 AWG.
Don't recommend frame storage any more. >:(
-
I've had two 10' cables (the original and a replacement) fall out of the tube... I gave up and carry it in the bag. :)
I lost my original cable yesterday on a ride from Hollywood Electrics (in pothole land) to Pasadena in rush hour, and I guess it fell out of the frame. I just ordered some spares from cableleader.com, a nearby company that has the 14 AWG cables in stock in multiple lengths so hopefully the package will arrive in a day or two (already shipped). Went on a futile attempt last night to find a cable from hardware and electronic stores last night but nobody had one thicker than 18 AWG.
Don't recommend frame storage any more. >:(
I have a 6-foot long 14 gauge cord stuck in my bike and it will definitely not come out of the storage tube no matter what size pothole I hit.
-
just to clarify the difference here...
Richard you are putting yours in the center hole of the frame right?
Bikerscooby you are putting yours in the swingarm hole?
-
just to clarify the difference here...
Richard you are putting yours in the center hole of the frame right?
Bikerscooby you are putting yours in the swingarm hole?
That is right. I put my cable in the center hole of the frame. I have always had an aversion to adding any weight to an unsprung part like a swing arm - even if Buell thought that was a good place to contain motor oil. ;)
-
Yes, I was using the swingarm hole with the original 10 ft cable, which doesn't fit in the center hole. I did order a couple of 6 foot cables as spares so maybe I'll try using the center hole with one of those and see if it's more secure. I should get the new cables in today's mail.
-
Yes, I was using the swingarm hole with the original 10 ft cable, which doesn't fit in the center hole.
Sure it does. I have even been able to get a 15ft cable in there when folded right. 15ft is pretty tight. I only did that because most of my slow charging is done at home so I keep a cable at home so I don't have to take it in and out daily. I can easily get my 10ft cord in and out of the frame tube above the charge port.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
-
I remember when I was a teenager, just starting to ride, I would often place something I needed to carry on top of the gas tank if it didn't fit under my jacket (this was on my dad's CB100 which didn't have a rack, cargo net or any other way to carry cargo). I got a very quick lesson that things would easily slip backward off the tank when accelerating, or forward when braking, but it was amazingly stable side-to-side. As I've thought about it in later years, as my understanding of Physics improved, it made sense -- a motorcycle, being a two-wheeled vehicle, has to balance the vector force of gravity with the need for centripetal vector force to make a turn, such that the vector sum of the two passes directly through the center of mass of the bike and the tire contact patch with the ground. If those forces don't balance, the bike will simply fall over on the high side or the low side. If you place an object on the gas tank, that force vector will pass directly through it as well, and it won't have any tendency to fall to either side. The leaning of the motorcycle balances the load exactly as well as it balances the bike.
So it mystifies me a bit how the cable could ever "fall out" of the storage spot, especially since there's a fair amount of friction to secure it. I don't use the storage spot because I don't like the idea of the metal edges chafing on the wire, but I can't really see how the cable could fall out -- if forces got that imbalanced, the bike should crash.
I also prefer to put the cable in the trunk of my bike because it's secured with a lock. I worry about anything not locked down succumbing to a "drive-by" theft...someone sees it and takes it just because he can. Are you sure that's not what happened?
-
So you don't believe us that reported the cable fell out? It did... just takes some bumpy roads that cause vibrations in different directions, I guess. One time I went on a ride and when I got home the cable was half sticking out about 6 inches and I almost lost it that day. Wednesday when I lost the cable I'm sure nobody stole it as I didn't make any stops on that ride.
-
Sorry, I didn't mean to call anybody a liar, I'm just saying I wonder how it could happen. It does seem to me more likely that it got swiped than it fell out, but that's not at all saying it's not possible for it to fall out.
Maybe the spring tension in the cable provides some imbalance that causes the cable to work itself sideways, especially as vibration and bumps occur?
-
I'll just chime in and say I lost my cable from the swingarm hole on the way back from work a couple weeks ago. It definitely does happen. I could not for the life of me get it to fit in the hole in the body. The swingarm seemed like a nice stable place... until it wasn't.
-
Yes Doug, I agree with your physics. This is how my dog sits on my tank, through the most twisty roads and doesn't fall off. Yet she is tethered to me so she can't go forward when emergency braking, or go backwards if I accelerate full throttle because she just pushes off me.
But many times I saw the cord half hanging out the swingarm hole after a ride, so decided not to carry it there anymore. The bouncing vibration of the swingarm must do this.
It is possible to get it into the center hole on new bikes, but very hard. In 2014 and earlier bikes, it goes in real easy, but the bike got much stronger in 2015. Another one of the 100+ reasons to get a 2015 or newer as you will time and time again hear me tell everyone over and over. The upper shock mount got stronger with a thicker ring of aluminum right in the center of the center tube hole. If it were designed with the thought of putting the charge cord in there perhaps the design could have had tapered edges, but somehow this didn't happen.
You can force the stock charge cord in there, as long as you have a spare at home you leave plugged into the wall to charge. Cause once you force it in, you want to leave it there just for emergency purposes, as frequent removal will perhaps chafe the cable itself as it pushes past this center ring over and over, and you have to squeeze the cord very tight on the end you insert, and bending the cable to this almost 180 degree point surely isn't good for longevity of the cable.
I carry a 25' charge cord from monoprice.com coiled up in the bottom of my top case. Although when I am out I don't think I've used this charge cord but perhaps a few times in the last year. I always use J1772 if I need to charge and am away from home.
-
But many times I saw the cord half hanging out the swingarm hole after a ride, so decided not to carry it there anymore. The bouncing vibration of the swingarm must do this.
It is possible to get it into the center hole on new bikes, but very hard. In 2014 and earlier bikes, it goes in real easy, but the bike got much stronger in 2015. Another one of the 100+ reasons to get a 2015 or newer as you will time and time again hear me tell everyone over and over. The upper shock mount got stronger with a thicker ring of aluminum right in the center of the center tube hole. If it were designed with the thought of putting the charge cord in there perhaps the design could have had tapered edges, but somehow this didn't happen.
You can force the stock charge cord in there, as long as you have a spare at home you leave plugged into the wall to charge. Cause once you force it in, you want to leave it there just for emergency purposes, as frequent removal will perhaps chafe the cable itself as it pushes past this center ring over and over, and you have to squeeze the cord very tight on the end you insert, and bending the cable to this almost 180 degree point surely isn't good for longevity of the cable.
I carry a 25' charge cord from monoprice.com coiled up in the bottom of my top case. Although when I am out I don't think I've used this charge cord but perhaps a few times in the last year. I always use J1772 if I need to charge and am away from home.
Haha....I have been baffled as to why everyone seemed to be having such trouble getting the cord in the frame tube when I have no problem at all...seeing as I have a 2014 bike....this would explain it.
Is the swingarm tube a different size on 2015+ too? The 15ft cord I bought fits in the frame tube on my 2014 but it fits better in the swingarm tube....it isn't so hard to get in and out. On my 2014 the 15ft cord fits nice and snug in the swingarm tube and so far it hasn't come out at all. Just like you I keep a cord at home for charging so I don't have to take it in and out all the time. It's just for emergencies. I tried to fit a 25ft cord but it was too big. I have found 10ft to really only be useful at home since most of the time when I am out and about it always seems to be too short. 15ft gives me a little extra and I don't take up space in the top box.
Just curious if putting a 15ft charge cord in the swingarm tube would be a nice snug fit, but not too snug, for 2015+ bikes too.
-
Ordered a spare, 10 ft.14 AWG cable from Amazon. Now that I have that, I folded up the original cable and shoved it into the swingarm tube. Since the original cable already had the original "kinks" from the factory when they folded it up, it was easier to do that one rather than the new one.
I did notice that when rolling it up the way the factory did, it is a MIGHTY snug fit inside that tube. Not sure how it could possibly fall out, but I'll double check it every time I park it.
Now I'll have the cord handy if I should happen upon an available outlet while traveling, and still have a cable waiting for me in my garage when I get home. It'll probably prolong the life of the cable, too, if I'm not constantly rolling and unrolling it at the same "bend points" every time.
-
I remember when I was a teenager, just starting to ride, I would often place something I needed to carry on top of the gas tank if it didn't fit under my jacket
When I was a teenager, I found that the old paper "supersized" mcdonalds cups fit exactly in that "aircraft filler" style tank ring that most sporty Honda bikes used for 15+ years...
So I would wedge a drink in there, put the bag of food under my jacket and ride over to the park to eat lunch.
It worked excellent until one day someone cut me off and I slammed on the brakes... the soda went flying foward, hit the clocks, and the wind made it go everywhere. 2 blocks down from where it happened was a car wash, so I ended up washing my suit and bike with a pressure wand. lol.
heres a pic of the bike I did that on.. you can see how the ring of the cap lets you wedge a soda in there.
-
Ah yes I recognise that cap. Push to close, yeah right.
-
Did these fit nicely?
Found these on Amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O)
Cheap enough, I ordered them and we'll see what happens.
-
Did these fit nicely?
Found these on Amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Round-Insert-Blanking-Black/dp/B00XBGHY5O)
Cheap enough, I ordered them and we'll see what happens.
Afraid not. Just a tad too small, and I've been too lazy to send them back. Also, they're closer to the diameter of the frame tube, not the tube in the swingarm.
-
I confess, I do regret the loss of the cup holder on my Vulcan.
-
I originally tried storing my cord in the frame hole but I noticed that the cord rubber coating was getting shaved off. I reached in with my fingers like an idiot and cut myself. No more frame holing for me ;)
I use the swingarm hole and have never had a problem. Mine stays in perfectly. I also perfected the fold so I can wrap it up and store it rather quickly, and it doesn't protrude on either side.
-
It seems to me that the frame tube hole would be a great place to put a J1772 built in plug. I had a J1772 plug made up with a standard power point on the other end so it plugs into the normal charge cord and then into the bike. But I can also plug in my QuiQ charger as well via a 1 into 2 cord. I carry a 6 inch long charge cable in the tank bag (now carbon fiber top). The J1772 socket (as a stand alone socket) is too big to fit in the frame hole, but I think a custom job might just fit. It would need to be off center to have enough room for the catch lever on the plug end (attached to the charge station).
-
It seems to me that the frame tube hole would be a great place to put a J1772 built in plug. I had a J1772 plug made up with a standard power point on the other end so it plugs into the normal charge cord and then into the bike. But I can also plug in my QuiQ charger as well via a 1 into 2 cord. I carry a 6 inch long charge cable in the tank bag (now carbon fiber top). The J1772 socket (as a stand alone socket) is too big to fit in the frame hole, but I think a custom job might just fit. It would need to be off center to have enough room for the catch lever on the plug end (attached to the charge station).
have you seen this location/use? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=346816199051264&set=pcb.1236086479793891&type=3&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=346816199051264&set=pcb.1236086479793891&type=3&theater)
-
as cool as this looks... dont ever use this to charge.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html)
-
as cool as this looks... dont ever use this to charge.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html)
Could I use that as a bun warmer? ;)
-
as cool as this looks... dont ever use this to charge.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/usa-Standard-2Pin-laptop-computer-retractable-power-cable-Goods-type-3-hole-plug-1-2M-Length/714523_634376984.html)
Could I use that as a bun warmer? ;)
give it 15 mins and you could probably make toast.
that pic came up while searching for something else, and man.. i wish we could have something that tiny and portable. maybe once we start making that room-temp superconducting wire.. right?
-
Funny story, ended up buying my buddy a new self retracting extension cord (ceiling mounted) for his garage. Thought I had pulled it all the way out when I plugged in to charge. To avoid the coil of self heating doom.
I was wrong, it bound up and I thought I was fully extended. Didn't burn anything down because i only charged for a couple hours while at the bbq. When I rolled it up everything was fine. When he tried to use it a couple days later he pulled the sheath off on several sections. Yay exposed wire.
We laughed, looked into the specs on the unit and it wasn't even solid enough to run his miter box. I felt bad but he's safer now with the upgrade I helped him buy and install. Don't use retracting or coiled cables, they do heat up and if left may melt and arc if the conditions are just wrong.
-
Funny story, ended up buying my buddy a new self retracting extension cord (ceiling mounted) for his garage. Thought I had pulled it all the way out when I plugged in to charge. To avoid the coil of self heating doom...
I have a friend who's a contractor, and as you know they're not capable of working unless C&W music is bombarding the place, but there's not always an outlet nearby to plug the boom box into. He thought he was very clever when he used a 500' spool of Romex as an extremely long extension cord, until the day the outlet wasn't very far away, he left most of the spool on the reel, and he wound up wasting an entire spool of Romex.