ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: BenderEmf on October 05, 2018, 12:06:36 AM
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Hey guys, I just finished designing, printing and installing a fender eliminator / license plate bracket / tail tidy for my 2017 SR. The major difference between mine and the existing R&G solution is that mine puts the plate deep under the tail, where theirs still extends out from the brake light.
I'm pretty proud of it. It's a perfect fit and reuses all the hardware that came with the bike. My only concern would be whether the plate is angled a bit too aggressively, but since it's still clearly visible and readable from behind sitting in a vehicle, I think it's alright. Certainly open to feedback, or if anyone else wants to tweak the design, have at it. :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3136698
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I like it, I might remix it to an European size that is a bit less angled because that angle will not pass over here.
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Hey guys, I just finished designing, printing and installing a fender eliminator / license plate bracket / tail tidy for my 2017 SR. The major difference between mine and the existing R&G solution is that mine puts the plate deep under the tail, where theirs still extends out from the brake light.
I'm pretty proud of it. It's a perfect fit and reuses all the hardware that came with the bike. My only concern would be whether the plate is angled a bit too aggressively, but since it's still clearly visible and readable from behind sitting in a vehicle, I think it's alright. Certainly open to feedback, or if anyone else wants to tweak the design, have at it. :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3136698
You aren't the hero we deserve, but you're the hero we need!
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Thank you for the kind words!
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This didn't deserve to die in obscurity, I'm bumping it to the top.
My friend printed this out for me and I installed it today, it looks great. He used 60% infill and it took 19 hours (and barely fit in his printer!). I sprayed some clearcoat on the resulting piece to keep upsplash from soaking into it. It reused all original hardware, except I had to buy new bolts for the license plate to fit the lower clearance.
My only concern is the plate angle, in the photo I've bent my tags to an angle I think I can get away with, but I need to print or build some spacers to hit the same angle with actual plates.
Thanks again for this great design! You really nailed it.
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That looks nice, but it wouldn't be legal in California, where the license plate needs to be at the very end of the vehicle.
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That looks nice, but it wouldn't be legal in California, where the license plate needs to be at the very end of the vehicle.
That may well be true but it sure isn’t enforced if it is CLEARLY readable. It seems HD license plate rear chain guards fly to my amazement as do trailer fenders. For over 35 years I’ve had DIY fender eliminating “brackets†with fairly radical license angles and never a mention even when pulled over for a “chat†over something else. I’m pretty certain here in California it would just be a fix it ticket anyway. Maybe only true here in nor. Cal.
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Luckily Colorado doesn't have that requirement, only:
- horizontal over 12" above ground
- clearly visible
- free of foreign material
- at the approximate horizontal center
Only question on this is number two, I think. Given how many times I see moto plates mounted vertically on a bobbed tail, or car plates with illegal tinted plastic covers, etc, I'm going to make my best effort and then see what I can get away with!
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For anyone else who tries this in the future: I've solved the plate angle problem to my satisfaction by bending some 1" corner braces in a vice to the angle that I wanted. It looks a little hinky but it gets me on the road until I make custom spacers for my friend to print. Hopefully the quality is good enough for someone to follow what I've done. Thanks again Bender!
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Two simple 2 inch extensions on the bottom part of the plate would bring it perpendicular and more visible. Also, a thick rubber bottom for the plate so your tire doesnt get chewed up when you hit a massive pothole
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I am happy that my design is getting some attention! :)
I hear you all saying the plate angle is just too much. Although I'll personally stick with the original, I don't mind posting a new model with less of an angle for everyone else who might want it. I'll use the image that sync posted with his improvised braces as a guideline.
I should be able to have it done over the coming weekend, or hopefully sooner.
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Ok, turns out I had some spare time tonight and was able to knock this out sooner than I anticipated! Sync's photo showed a roughly 25 degree difference between his plate and his print, so I worked that into the model and uploaded it to the original Thingiverse link as v2.
Note that I haven't printed it personally to check the fit, but this was a simple enough change that I can't imagine why the new model wouldn't work just as well as the original.
Anyway both models are available so everyone can choose for themselves if they want the sexier v1 or to play it safe and go with the less risky v2. I know what I'm picking, but I won't judge. ;)
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Thanks so much for the revision. Now... Can you find a way to break it into 2 pieces that would fix on a "mini" printer with 120mm bed? Note that's about 110 useable when you print with a raft.
I'm thinking break in the middle with a 'key' type connection. If I had the source in a format I could put into OnShape, I would try this myself.
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Thanks Bender! My buddy-with-a-printer keeps offering to print a cleaner one, he'll be glad to have an excuse to start it up again!
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Caleb, I use DesignSpark Mechanical for my modeling. The bad news is that they don't let you export files into a neutral format that can be loaded into other tools, but the good news is that DSM itself is free of charge, so if you're open to trying a new tool, you can try splitting the model however you like. My concern would be that if you do split the model, the prints would break apart during a ride after hitting enough potholes, but I can't say that it would definitely NOT work so if you're willing to try it then I have my fingers crossed for you! ;D
Sync, if you wind up printing and installing the r2, I'd very much like to see a followup picture of it if you don't mind!
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Thanks so much for the revision. Now... Can you find a way to break it into 2 pieces that would fix on a "mini" printer with 120mm bed? Note that's about 110 useable when you print with a raft.
I'm thinking break in the middle with a 'key' type connection. If I had the source in a format I could put into OnShape, I would try this myself.
Another reason to split it into two pieces might be for people who actually want to extend it backwards either for compliance purposes (california regulation above) or to relocate turn signals so they clear the cargo area better (I think my bags block my turn signals a bit). In two pieces, one could add extension blocks. Also, might make for more convenient printing (assuming a flat cut point, with holes for bolts to align).
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> ... I sprayed some clearcoat on the resulting piece to keep upsplash from soaking into it. ...
Let us know how that lasts.
I'm thinking to dip mine in some UV-blocking two-part epoxy to strengthen the carbon-PLA I intend to use and prevent it from photodegrading.
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Ok, turns out I had some spare time tonight and was able to knock this out sooner than I anticipated! Sync's photo showed a roughly 25 degree difference between his plate and his print, so I worked that into the model and uploaded it to the original Thingiverse link as v2.
I printed v2 ($90 delivered from Print A Thing) and tried it out on my 2017 DS. It looks amazing and fits perfectly, but on extreme shock usage it does hit the tire. Just by a tiny little bit. I'm thinking there may be sweet placement between the original and the 25-degree version. I've bent my plate a little to give it a better gap (not looking to spend another $90 on this at this time).
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Very nice. I also would like to 3d print accessories for the zero, but I made my fender eliminator the old fashioned way. With a saw. Cut off all the excess, and used abs glue to reattach the licence plate bracket. And attached the licence plate light to the Zero rear rack.