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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: mdjak1 on March 29, 2021, 03:27:05 AM
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I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?
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My factory charging cable that I use to recharge my 2018 S gets warm at both ends of the cable, but only about 80 degrees F. You might want to make sure that all of your male and female connectors on both ends of your cable and at the power port on your bike are clean and free of any corrosion.
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Will definitely look into the charge plug. Maybe even try a newer, shorter, clean computer cable.
I was reading the thread about the FXS on board charger going bad and was wondering if that might be an issue.
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You might have a heat damaged plug connection like I did.
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10514.0
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You might have a heat damaged plug connection like I did.
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10514.0
I looked at the plug and it looks in perfect condition. The bike does have 12k miles. It has been ridden in the rain and stored outside. The plastics were badly faded but it doesn't look like there is any damage to the plug.
https://imgur.com/2WbB891
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I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?
if you have used that cable with 120 VAC a lot, try changing it to a new one of the same type. At many hours at 12 amps, there could be high resistance in the AC cord and that will heat up the cable as it reduces your charge rate. Those cables will age after a lot of use at 12 amps. If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?
if you have used that cable with 120 VAC a lot, try changing it to a new one of the same type. At many hours at 12 amps, there could be high resistance in the AC cord and that will heat up the cable as it reduces your charge rate. Those cables will age after a lot of use at 12 amps. If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.
-Don- Reno, NV
I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt. So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts. However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg. I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6ft-14awg-gauge-Heavy-Duty-PC-Printer-Power-Cord-Cable/293025781919?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Also, I think when I charge next time, I will unscrew the other portion of the plug from the bike and see if the wires behind it are getting hot too.
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I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt. So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.
Does your J-1772 plug into a 14-50R?
If so, another option is to make your own cable. 14-50P to your Zero cord. You could probably use the same cord that has been getting hot. Just snap off the 120 VAC plug and put on a 14-50P and plug it into 240 VAC.
No need to wire the neutral, (middle bottom flat pin of the 14-50P). You can leave that blade out of the plug. Just have both 240 VAC (left and right blade) and ground (green to the odd looking one of the four).
Your charger is more efficient at 240 VAC, so even the charger will work cooler with 240 VAC.
FWIW, I almost never charge with 120 VAC. Only when I have no other choice but I normally do have the choice.
-Don- Reno, NV
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...............
Also, I think when I charge next time, I will unscrew the other portion of the plug from the bike and see if the wires behind it are getting hot too.
In my case the plug wasn’t the (initial) issue but rather the the crimped wire connection on 1/4” Sta-kon (brand name) flag (90°) electrical connectors.
For me, the fix was to get away from these connectors as I don’t trust them past 7.5 amps.
The plug I found uses direct wire connection via built in compression terminals.
I believe Don is correct in that the built in chargers will run on voltages between 120-240 but at a set wattage so if applied voltage is doubled, amperage will half & connections will run substantially cooler.
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I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.
Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.
-Crissa
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I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.
Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.
-Crissa
The hotter they get, the more the resistance goes up. After so much of that, it's permanent high resistance, so then it even gets hotter and hotter the more it is used as your charge rate goes down as the power is lost in that heat.
But yeah, moving them around a lot probably adds to such. But it's mostly from the heat making the resistance higher than when the cable was new.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.
Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.
-Crissa
Where did you find a 12awg cord?
I’ve not found one & I think the reason is because both ends have connections only rated at 15amp so what’s the reason to have a cord rated higher (20amp)?
Might behoove us to source field installed connectors along with 12awg cord & make our own.
When I changed my IEC320 C14 socket I also purchased a new 6’ hospital grade C14x15-5 cord. A few thousand miles ago I noticed that the neutral side on the 15-5 has heat damage on the site to blade crimp connection so I’m not trusting the crimp connections & will eventually have to cut the plug off & replace with field installed type with screw clamp connections.
Also worth noting is I found that the contact patch on the C14 plug/socket can be increased significantly by shaving off the last few mm of rubber from the end of the C14 plug (also removing the same few mm from the plugs exterior where it insulrts into the socket.
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About once a year my daughter's stock charging cable welds its male contacts to the female contacts of the years-old 50 foot 14 gauge extension cord that she connects the cable to. Since her husband never likes to buy anything new, he just cuts off the end of the cables and attaches new male and female connectors to the cords, which works for another year. :o Eventually, I imagine that the cables will not be long enough to reach the wall outlet. ::)
I might add that when I visit my daughter I bring over my own heavy-duty 8-foot long Yung Li 12 AGW (3.3 square mm) rated for 300V and 105 degrees C charging cable that I purchased off of Amazon to recharge my Zero. :)
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Where did you find a 12awg cord?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplifier cable. But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.
I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.
About once a year...
This is why I put in this thing called a 'switch', to turn off the outlet so that won't happen. Ever. ^-^
-Crissa
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Where did you find a 12awg cord?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplified cable. But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.
I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.
..............
-Crissa
Well I’ll be!!
Per the discption I found, yes these are 12awg :D
But this discussion has me thinking of making my own plug again.
I think the 14awg wire will be Ok for what I need (6’ of cord) & that the weak link is the crimp connections.
I found these https://www.webberelectronics.com/product/pa130100rbk-right-left-iec-lock-locking-rewireable-iec320-c13-right-left-angled-connector IEC C13 “rewireable” plug that also feature a locking ground arrangement (not that it’s needed). They come it straight as well as 90° The screw down clamps can be checked/tightened from time to time unlike a conventional crimp type.
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Where did you find a 12awg cord?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplified cable. But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.
I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.
About once a year...
This is why I put in this thing called a 'switch', to turn off the outlet so that won't happen. Ever. ^-^
-Crissa
That D'Addario Bass Amplified cable as sold on Amazon is the one that I bought a couple of years ago to charge my Zero. It is definitely 12 gauge and works very well. :)
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That D'Addario Bass Amplified cable as sold on Amazon is the one that I bought a couple of years ago to charge my Zero. It is definitely 12 gauge and works very well. :)
I bought it before as well, I don't know why the description has conflicting info.
One recent review complains. But I can't read their photos.
-Crissa
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Where did you find a 12awg cord?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplifier cable. But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.
I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.
-Crissa
If the 14AWG cable I bought from eBay doesn't do the trick, then I will order one of these. As for the single place on the Amazon page where it mentions 18AWG, looks like a typical Amazon screwup. I went to the manufacturer's website and it is pretty clear they use 12AWG.
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They just came in the mail. Yep, 12ga as ever!
-Crissa
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I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm.
Yup, same here, when charging with 120 and OEM cable. Before switching to 240V I switched to 14 AWG, which kept the cable cold but plug warm.
If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.
-Don- Reno, NV
Ayup... that's the better way to go!
I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt. So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.
However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg. I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route.
For sure, go AWG 14 . No need for AWG 12 imho but the AWG 16 provided is just not good enough for the Amps needed.
If you have 240 in the garage, then you should use it.
I have two solutions for mine
A) I installed a NEMA 6/20 outlet, and put a 6/20 plug (actually the ( - - ) low amp variety on a 14 AWG cable.
B) I fabricated my own J1722 adapter. There are several topics on this in this forum. Search and you shall find!
My solution was an 1772 Female I ordered which I attached to a section of aluminum pipe I happened to have which i could slip snuggly into the empty frame tube in the rear fork. At the back end i just attached a short charging cable to plug into the existing input when used.
See pics.
Good luck!
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I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt. So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.
However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg. I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route.
For sure, go AWG 14 . No need for AWG 12 imho but the AWG 16 provided is just not good enough for the Amps needed.
If you have 240 in the garage, then you should use it.
I have two solutions for mine
A) I installed a NEMA 6/20 outlet, and put a 6/20 plug (actually the ( - - ) low amp variety on a 14 AWG cable.
B) I fabricated my own J1722 adapter. There are several topics on this in this forum. Search and you shall find!
My solution was an 1772 Female I ordered which I attached to a section of aluminum pipe I happened to have which i could slip snuggly into the empty frame tube in the rear fork. At the back end i just attached a short charging cable to plug into the existing input when used.
See pics.
Good luck!
Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug. I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.
I am curious about your J1722 adapter. Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket? Or is there always power available on the plug?
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Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug. I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.
I am curious about your J1722 adapter. Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket? Or is there always power available on the plug?
No reason for an additional circuit, just an additional outlet on the 14-50 circuit ?
The Bolt charger is 7.2 KW - 30 Amps.
The OEM charger on the Zero will pull 5 or 6 Amps @ 240 V (for a longer time).
Is your circuit/breaker 40A ( = 32 A max = 80% all the time) or 50A?
Just don't charge at the same time?
Yes the J1772 adapter I made for my zero has a resistor built in for proximity detector.
Circuits/specs are easy enough to search in this forum or on the wild web.
hth,
Hein
T
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Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug. I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.
I am curious about your J1722 adapter. Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket? Or is there always power available on the plug?
No reason for an additional circuit, just an additional outlet on the 14-50 circuit ?
The Bolt charger is 7.2 KW - 30 Amps.
The OEM charger on the Zero will pull 5 or 6 Amps @ 240 V (for a longer time).
Is your circuit/breaker 40A ( = 32 A max = 80% all the time) or 50A?
Just don't charge at the same time?
Yes the J1772 adapter I made for my zero has a resistor built in for proximity detector.
Circuits/specs are easy enough to search in this forum or on the wild web.
hth,
Hein
T
Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it. Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it? I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?
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Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it. Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it? I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?
Of course you can. The 50 amps is the max capacity. If you're under that, you're fine.
Others plugged into the same circuit have a total of 30 amps they can use, if you're drawing 20 amps.
-Don- Reno, NV
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14 awg cable came in today. Charged from 65% to 100%. The cable stayed at ambient temperature. The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher. I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket. The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%. Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%. For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.
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14 awg cable came in today. Charged from 65% to 100%. The cable stayed at ambient temperature. The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher. I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket. The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%. Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%. For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.
Your OBC is more efficient with 240 VAC. That means less heat in the charger and it will then probably last longer. I almost never charge with 120 VAC. But sometimes there is no other choice.
-Don- Reno, NV
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14 awg cable came in today. Charged from 65% to 100%. The cable stayed at ambient temperature. The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher. I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket. The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%. Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%. For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.
Your OBC is more efficient with 240 VAC. That means less heat in the charger and it will then probably last longer. I almost never charge with 120 VAC. But sometimes there is no other choice.
-Don- Reno, NV
Alright, you convinced me. But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car.
https://imgur.com/ovOkzSg
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Alright, you convinced me. But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car.
I use my Tesla Wall Connector to charge my bikes. 48 amps capable at 240 VAC. I have charged my SR as high as ten KW with external chargers using a Tesla-Tap with other adapters.
Why can't you use your 50 amp source? But you don't need it if you don't run external chargers, And with your way, you can charge both the car and the bike at the same time. But I also have ways to charge both with 240 VAC at the same time.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Why can't you use your 50 amp source? But you don't need it if you don't run external chargers, And with your way, you can charge both the car and the bike at the same time. But I also have ways to charge both with 240 VAC at the same time.
-Don- Reno, NV
I realized that I had room in the subpanel for a 240v breaker. I had to go to Home Depot to get the box, socket and plug, so why not buy the breaker and make it a separate circuit. Seems cleaner than tapping off the 50 amp breaker than has some very thick wire going into the terminals already. Extra $25 but I won't have to worry about overloading the 50 amp breaker should I (or someone else down the road) use both plugs at the same time.
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Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it. Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it? I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?
Of course you can. The 50 amps is the max capacity. If you're under that, you're fine.
Others plugged into the same circuit have a total of 30 amps they can use, if you're drawing 20 amps.
-Don- Reno, NV
Don, can you please provide a documentation that states you can have an outlet that is rated less then the breaker that protects it.
It’s my understanding that the circuit breaker must protect the max rating of the lowest amp draw device (outlet), so that 50 amp circuit breaker would have to be replaced with a 20 amp breaker if a 20 amp outlet was installed on that circuit.
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Yeah, it's old behavior to expect loads to be split over more than one outlet.
However, it would be fine to charge the Zero off the EVSE. Or have EVSEs set to lower than the circuit rating plugged into the circuit (because they're not outlets, per se).
-Crissa
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It’s my understanding that the circuit breaker must protect the max rating of the lowest amp draw device (outlet), so that 50 amp circuit breaker would have to be replaced with a 20 amp breaker if a 20 amp outlet was installed on that circuit.
Noop.
The breaker protects the wiring, not the outlets.
Think about your house.
How many outlets in the kitchen alone, each rated 15 Amps? 8+ ?
How many breakers? My guess is just 1 at 20 Amps, all outlets being fed from the same 12 Awg copper romex for sure.
mdjak1>> "Alright, you convinced me. But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car."
If you have to panel right there, and a spot for a breaker than yes for sure, add the breaker!
Well done.
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Don, can you please provide a documentation that states you can have an outlet that is rated less then the breaker that protects it.
That is the norm everywhere, AFAIK. Ask any electrician about the 80% rule.
For an example, I had an electrician put in my Tesla Wall connector here. It is on a 60 amp circuit breaker. 60 amp wiring. The Tesla Wall Connector is rated at 48 amps max and no other equipment can be tied to that circuit.
60 amps times 80%=48 amps.
Same in one of my other houses where I had a NEMA 14-50R added. It's also on a 60 amp breaker, 60 amp wiring, 48 amp max at outlet.
I am not an electrician, but I do know about the 80% rule being code everywhere I have had any work done. And that includes CA as well as here in NV.
So can you should me documentation where it is allowed to draw 60 amps from a 60 amp breaker?
In fact, 120 VAC outlets in the USA. They are all on 20 amp CBs with 20 amp wiring. But the plugs are normally rated for 15 amps.
Again, 20 amps minus 80%=16 amps max allowed.
At my house in Cold Springs Valley, NV, I had a 14-50R installed by a licensed electrician. Also on a 60 amp breaker. 14-50R is rated at 50 amps, not sixty.
-Don- Reno, NV
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It’s my understanding that the circuit breaker must protect the max rating of the lowest amp draw device (outlet), so that 50 amp circuit breaker would have to be replaced with a 20 amp breaker if a 20 amp outlet was installed on that circuit.
Noop.
The breaker protects the wiring, not the outlets.
Think about your house.
How many outlets in the kitchen alone, each rated 15 Amps? 8+ ?
How many breakers? My guess is just 1 at 20 Amps, all outlets being fed from the same 12 Awg copper romex for sure.
mdjak1>> "Alright, you convinced me. But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car."
If you have to panel right there, and a spot for a breaker than yes for sure, add the breaker!
Well done.
Please provide NEC https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Electrical_Code
documentation that states a 20 amp outlet can be installed downstream of a 50 amp circuit breaker?
The OP elected to run a dedicated 20 amp circuit from the main panel but he could have installed a sub panel from the 50 amp feed & run a proper 20 amp circuit from it (protected with a 20 amp breaker).
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Don, can you please provide a documentation that states you can have an outlet that is rated less then the breaker that protects it.
I just looked it up, see here. (https://www.ecmweb.com/basics/article/20898940/sizing-a-circuit-breaker)
-Don- Reno, NV
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Don, can you please provide a documentation that states you can have an outlet that is rated less then the breaker that protects it.
I just looked it up, see here. (https://www.ecmweb.com/basics/article/20898940/sizing-a-circuit-breaker)
-Don- Reno, NV
While that info is helpful to me for reasons outside of this discussion (& I thank you for it), it has nothing to do with the Legality (code) of installing a 20 amp outlet on a 50 amp circuit.
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I think you can only do it if it's labeled.
But the presumption is that anything on that smaller amperage outlet will be protected by a smaller amperage breaker.
-Crissa
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Noop.
The breaker protects the wiring, not the outlets.
Please provide NEC https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Electrical_Code
documentation that states a 20 amp outlet can be installed downstream of a 50 amp circuit breaker?
Thank you Eric,
This is all 2005 NEC. 210.21 Outlet Devices material correct?
I should not comment on that without thorough understanding.
Or as someone wrote https://www.bobvila.com/posts/82844-15-amp-outlets-in-a-20-amp-circuit (https://www.bobvila.com/posts/82844-15-amp-outlets-in-a-20-amp-circuit) more bluntly "Don't listen to him unless you want to burn your house down. "
It seems a 20 Amp receptacle should be protected with a 20 Amp breaker.
The only exception being multiple 15 amps on a 20 amps circuit
I haven't found a perfect URL for the exact NEX 210.21 wording.
This seems to come close: https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/code-focus-article-210-branch-circuits
(https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/code-focus-article-210-branch-circuits)
Thanks,
Hein
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While that info is helpful to me for reasons outside of this discussion (& I thank you for it), it has nothing to do with the Legality (code) of installing a 20 amp outlet on a 50 amp circuit.
Building codes can change from one town to the next. If any such rules cover them all, I do not know.
I am not an electrician and that is who you would have to ask for such codes.
I can only say drawing one amp from a ten amp outlet with a 50 amp breaker with 50 amp wiring is safe. I cannot say it meets any building code.
Such codes change year after year in different areas for whatever reason.
-Don- Reno, NV
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There's a reason why it's now called the 'uniform building code', Don.
-Crissa
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There's a reason why it's now called the 'uniform building code', Don.
-Crissa
In the city that I worked for every time the latest version of the "Uniform Building Code" was adopted by the city they would tweak it to suit the politics of the time. I can't recall if any changes were made to the electrical code, but the city definitely made changes to the grading and foundation sections of the code (because that was something that I had to enforce) and also to the plumbing section, where plastic pipe would come and go depending upon the local pipe fitter union or home and commercial developer demands. ;)
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I am not an electrician and that is who you would have to ask for such codes.
And the fact that your not an electrician &/or familiar with NEC codes you shouldn’t comment on what’s Expectable (code) in electrical distribution systems.
Codes were enacted for a reason & must be adhered to in-spite of what you or anyone else thinks SHOULD work.
Don’t give advice on what you THINK is Exceptable but rather pass on advice that you KNOW is correct.
Also it’s my understanding that local codes are based on NEC and the requirements generally can be greater but not less then NEC.
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Don’t give advice on what you THINK is Exceptable but rather pass on advice that you KNOW is correct.
I do KNOW what I said was technically correct.
I do NOT know if it meets code. Two different issues.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Don’t give advice on what you THINK is Exceptable but rather pass on advice that you KNOW is correct.
I do KNOW what I said was technically correct.
I do NOT know if it meets code. Two different issues.
-Don- Reno, NV
Technically you can breathe under water without any breathing aid (but I do not know if you will survive).
Care to test my theory? :o
Codes aren’t necessarily written for the probability but rather the possibility.
IE putting a 20a outlet on a 50a circuit will highly probable be Ok.
However the worse case scenario that I can think of is that a component in the device plugged into that 20a outlet starts to go bad & the device draws 45 amps.
The 50a circuit breakers not going to trip & the outlet WILL overheat & potentially start a fire.
I’m just asking that you use discretion when giving advice on power distribution as you wouldn’t want to give advice that could potentially cause any issues :P
Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it. Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it? I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?
Of course you can. The 50 amps is the max capacity. If you're under that, you're fine.
Others plugged into the same circuit have a total of 30 amps they can use, if you're drawing 20 amps.
-Don- Reno, NV
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There's a reason why it's now called the 'uniform building code', Don.
-Crissa
How uniform is it between different states? Not at all! Do a search on those exact words "'uniform building code" and you will quickly see it is not all that uniform between states as well as different counties in the same state.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Don, I'm not going to argue with you about building codes. ESokoloff is correct in this matter.
And I do not know of any difference to this across states.
-Crissa
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And I do not know of any difference to this across states.
You do now. See here. (https://www.nema.org/standards/Technical/FieldReps/National-Electrical-Code)
"The timing for code adoption varies by locale and may be amended by state and local jurisdictions. The result is that different electrical codes are being enforced in different parts of the U.S.
NEMA's Field Representatives track the adoption of the NEC in their respective territories and have developed a report that identifies which electrical codes are enforced where."
-Don-
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Nice! You've proven there's no difference across state bounds.
Thanks.
-Crissa