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[Richard230]

Where did you find a 12awg cord?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplified cable.  But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.

I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.

About once a year...

This is why I put in this thing called a 'switch', to turn off the outlet so that won't happen.  Ever.

-Crissa

That D'Addario Bass Amplified cable as sold on Amazon is the one that I bought a couple of years ago to charge my Zero. It is definitely 12 gauge and works very well. 

[Crissa]

That D'Addario Bass Amplified cable as sold on Amazon is the one that I bought a couple of years ago to charge my Zero. It is definitely 12 gauge and works very well. 

I bought it before as well, I don't know why the description has conflicting info.

One recent review complains.  But I can't read their photos.

-Crissa

[mdjak1]

Where did you find a 12awg cord?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplifier cable.  But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.

I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.

-Crissa

If the 14AWG cable I bought from eBay doesn't do the trick, then I will order one of these.   As for the single place on the Amazon page where it mentions 18AWG, looks like a typical Amazon screwup.  I went to the manufacturer's website and it is pretty clear they use 12AWG. 

[Crissa]

They just came in the mail.  Yep, 12ga as ever!

-Crissa

[hein]

I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm.

Yup, same here, when charging with 120 and OEM cable. Before switching to 240V I switched to 14 AWG, which kept the cable cold but plug warm.

If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.
-Don-  Reno, NV

Ayup... that's the better way to go!

I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt.   So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.

   However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg.   I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route. 

For sure, go AWG 14 . No need for AWG 12 imho but the AWG 16 provided is just not good enough for the Amps needed.

If you have 240 in the garage, then you should use it.
I have two solutions for mine
A) I installed a NEMA 6/20 outlet, and  put a 6/20 plug (actually the  ( -  - ) low amp variety on a 14 AWG cable.
B) I fabricated my own J1722 adapter. There are several topics on this in this forum. Search and you shall find!
My solution was  an 1772 Female I ordered which I attached  to a section of aluminum pipe I happened to have which i could slip snuggly into the empty frame tube in the rear fork. At the back end i just attached a short charging cable to plug into the existing input when used.
See pics.

Good luck!

[mdjak1]

I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt.   So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.

   However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg.   I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route. 

For sure, go AWG 14 . No need for AWG 12 imho but the AWG 16 provided is just not good enough for the Amps needed.

If you have 240 in the garage, then you should use it.
I have two solutions for mine
A) I installed a NEMA 6/20 outlet, and  put a 6/20 plug (actually the  ( -  - ) low amp variety on a 14 AWG cable.
B) I fabricated my own J1722 adapter. There are several topics on this in this forum. Search and you shall find!
My solution was  an 1772 Female I ordered which I attached  to a section of aluminum pipe I happened to have which i could slip snuggly into the empty frame tube in the rear fork. At the back end i just attached a short charging cable to plug into the existing input when used.
See pics.

Good luck!

Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug.   I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.   

I am curious about your J1722 adapter.   Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket?   Or is there always power available on the plug? 

[hein]

Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug.   I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.   

I am curious about your J1722 adapter.   Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket?   Or is there always power available on the plug?

No reason for an additional circuit, just an additional outlet on the 14-50 circuit ?
The Bolt charger is 7.2 KW - 30 Amps.
The OEM charger on the Zero will pull 5 or 6 Amps @ 240 V (for a longer time).

Is your circuit/breaker 40A ( = 32 A  max = 80% all the time) or 50A?
Just don't charge at the same time?

Yes the J1772 adapter I made for my zero has a resistor built in for proximity detector.
Circuits/specs are easy enough to search in this forum or on the wild web.

hth,
Hein


T

[mdjak1]

Unplugging the 14-50 charger and using that plug is a good solution for me because the plug is up high and is very difficult to plug and unplug.   I am not sure if I have any room left in my subpanel for another 240 circuit.   

I am curious about your J1722 adapter.   Doesn't the charger look for proximity or pilot signal when plugged in to a socket?   Or is there always power available on the plug?

No reason for an additional circuit, just an additional outlet on the 14-50 circuit ?
The Bolt charger is 7.2 KW - 30 Amps.
The OEM charger on the Zero will pull 5 or 6 Amps @ 240 V (for a longer time).

Is your circuit/breaker 40A ( = 32 A  max = 80% all the time) or 50A?
Just don't charge at the same time?

Yes the J1772 adapter I made for my zero has a resistor built in for proximity detector.
Circuits/specs are easy enough to search in this forum or on the wild web.

hth,
Hein


T

Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it.  Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it?   I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?

[DonTom]

Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it.  Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it?   I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?

Of course you can. The 50 amps is the max capacity. If you're under that, you're fine.

Others plugged into the same circuit have a total of 30 amps they can use, if you're drawing 20 amps.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[mdjak1]

14 awg cable came in today.   Charged from 65% to 100%.   The cable stayed at ambient temperature.   The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher.  I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket.  The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%.   Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%.    For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.

[DonTom]

14 awg cable came in today.   Charged from 65% to 100%.   The cable stayed at ambient temperature.   The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher.  I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket.  The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%.   Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%.    For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.

Your OBC is more efficient with 240 VAC. That means less heat in the charger and it will then probably last longer.  I almost never charge with 120 VAC. But sometimes there is no other choice.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[mdjak1]

14 awg cable came in today.   Charged from 65% to 100%.   The cable stayed at ambient temperature.   The plug was only about 5 degrees F higher.  I also pulled out the socket to expose the wires from the charger to the socket.  The wires behind the socket were about 85-90 degrees F maximum about the time the bike was charged to 90%.   Then the wires cooled a bit I assume it was because the charger tapers down after 90%.    For now I will just continue on with 110 volt charging rather than switch over to 220 volt as has been suggested.

Your OBC is more efficient with 240 VAC. That means less heat in the charger and it will then probably last longer.  I almost never charge with 120 VAC. But sometimes there is no other choice.

-Don-  Reno, NV

Alright, you convinced me.   But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car. 

[DonTom]

Alright, you convinced me.   But I added a new 20A, 220V circuit to the subpanel in my garage rather than connecting to the 50 amp I use to charge my car.

I use my Tesla Wall Connector to charge my bikes. 48 amps capable at 240 VAC. I have charged my SR as high as ten KW with external chargers using  a Tesla-Tap with other adapters.

Why can't you use your 50 amp source?   But you don't need it if you don't run external chargers, And with your way, you can charge both the car and the bike at the same time. But I also have ways to charge both with 240 VAC at the same time.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[mdjak1]

Why can't you use your 50 amp source?   But you don't need it if you don't run external chargers, And with your way, you can charge both the car and the bike at the same time. But I also have ways to charge both with 240 VAC at the same time.

-Don-  Reno, NV

I realized that I had room in the subpanel for a 240v breaker.   I had to go to Home Depot to get the box, socket and plug, so why not buy the breaker and make it a separate circuit.  Seems cleaner than tapping off the 50 amp breaker than has some very thick wire going into the terminals already.   Extra $25 but I won't have to worry about overloading the 50 amp breaker should I (or someone else down the road) use both plugs at the same time. 

[ESokoloff]

Circuit has a 50 amp breaker on it.  Can I put a plug that is only capable of 20 amps on a circuit that has a 50 amp breaker on it?   I'm sure I won't plug anything in to it that would draw over 20 amps but how about if someone else does?

Of course you can. The 50 amps is the max capacity. If you're under that, you're fine.

Others plugged into the same circuit have a total of 30 amps they can use, if you're drawing 20 amps.

-Don-  Reno, NV

Don, can you please provide a documentation that states you can have an outlet that is rated less then the breaker that protects it.

It’s my understanding that the circuit breaker must protect the max rating of the lowest amp draw device (outlet), so that 50 amp circuit breaker would have to be replaced with a 20 amp breaker if a 20 amp outlet was installed on that circuit.