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[trikester]

Yeah, when I refer to "free coasting" I mean as close to free as we can get with the switch on. However, I find that since Harlan reduced my "no brake light" regen to 0% the bike (actually my trike because I haven't done this on my FX yet). is coasting much better.

I still plan to take the chain off if I ever have to push it any distance, because even with the switch off the motor still adds noticeable magnetic drag.

Trikester

[LiveandLetDrive]

It sounds like you have a very weird usage case, or at least imagine you do.  Who is doing a significant fraction of their distance on downgrades with no braking?  Why would anyone push for a significant distance?  Putting throttle-off regen to 0% and brake-on regen to 100% gives you real time control of regen but that seems like a silly hassle to handle a rare situation for the vast majority of people.  How much opportunity for regen are you missing in the rest of the ride's stops and gos?  What is with the coasting obsession, are you sure you aren't over-focusing on a tiny percent of your ride time?

[Marshm]

In mountain areas some times the ride is all up hill until you get to the top, then the second half of your ride could be a lot of coasting.  I have done a lot of mountain riding and some areas are like that.  Steep up and steep back down.  Or sometimes there is a dirt road way back down if you are all tired out from the trail and you can't even pull in the clutch anymore, you can take the road. 

[cloroxbb]

It sounds like you have a very weird usage case, or at least imagine you do.  Who is doing a significant fraction of their distance on downgrades with no braking?  Why would anyone push for a significant distance?  Putting throttle-off regen to 0% and brake-on regen to 100% gives you real time control of regen but that seems like a silly hassle to handle a rare situation for the vast majority of people.  How much opportunity for regen are you missing in the rest of the ride's stops and gos?  What is with the coasting obsession, are you sure you aren't over-focusing on a tiny percent of your ride time?

Actually, using that strategy just gives you more options when you ride. Instead of having to find the sweet spot on the throttle to "coast," it is automatically doable when you get off the throttle, then if you want regen, you just lightly squeeze the brake lever(s), if you need to use actual brakes, you then use the brake lever normally. Seems actually more intuitive IMO. Sometimes you may not want to regen, and instead of it being automatic, it is dependent on the rider. Really its just swapping automatic regen, for automatic coasting.

[trikester]

How much opportunity for regen are you missing in the rest of the ride's stops and gos?

I don't understand the question. I always use regen for the rest of the ride's stops and goes. Every time I put on the brake light I'm using regen to stop or slow down, so the question doesn't make any sense to me. Sorry.

No brake light = no regen coasting. Brake light = regen for slowing or stopping. Best of two worlds.

The Zero factory default programming for regen has it start reducing at 1000 rpm and cut out completely at 500 rpm. I had Harlan reduce those numbers to 500 rpm and 150 rpm respectively. That enables me to completely stop at lights etc., without using my mechanical brakes, I might need to just briefly tap the mechanical brake at the end to stop a slow roll.

On a mountain dirt road ride I had an altitude gain of 4300 feet in 16 miles. The road had sharp 180 degree switchbacks. Coming back down I did the entire 16 miles without using my mechanical brakes once. Coasting and regen braking was all I needed. Plus I gained a bar on the gauge by the bottom.

cloroxbb's statement says the rest for me. It is "spot on".

BTW - A lot of my rides involve a lot of climbing and then the return with a lot of descending but I even like the choice of - no regen coast or regen braking - in the city and on the short ups and downs of desert riding.

If I could get continuously variable regen from 0% to max % then that would be the perfect world! I'll bet that Zero will figure out that one sometime in the future, just as some car companies have.

Trikester

[kingcharles]

If I could get continuously variable regen from 0% to max % then that would be the perfect world! I'll bet that Zero will figure out that one sometime in the future, just as some car companies have.

There are rumours that Vectrix is going out of business again. Perhaps Zero should buy their patent for the multi function throttle. Because that provides the full regen control. (and slow speed reverse...)

[BSDThw]

Is there a patent?

The Sevcon provide this as standard. (Photo)

I love my step less regen brake using a clutch lever +...

I know Zero would like to do things like this, but every part will raise the price.
Doing it with the dual throttle needs a good adjustment.
As I remember you had a Vectrix, is that right? How was your experiences with that dual throttle?
I once read about adjusting the mechanic, you had to start a software procedure with some brake lever "code" and than setting the midpoint (mechanic) at the throttle...

[trikester]

How are you doing variable regen with a lever using the Sevcon? I looked at the throttle setting graph but don't understand how it is implemented?

Trikester

[BSDThw]

I did a different way. The Sevcon has a second analog input, there I use my brake lever box. It has a 5KOhm poti inside and a gear to twist it with the small lever movement.

I have attached a diagram Analog Input 2 is my brake input!

But there are some standards available but I had mine 1 year before I saw this
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3027.msg14912#msg14912
 

[kingcharles]

How was your experiences with that dual throttle?
I once read about adjusting the mechanic, you had to start a software procedure with some brake lever "code" and than setting the midpoint (mechanic) at the throttle...

The multi function throttle is the best thing about the Vectrix. I will really miss it on my next bike!
It is simply perfect.

The procedure you describe is for calibration, only needed if you have a problem after dropping the bike on the handlebars or some other reason to cause the setting to become wrong. It also involves opening the throttle and using a small screwdriver to adjust it.

My throttle assembly was replaced under warranty once after a firmware upgrade screwed it up. But other than that it worked flawless for 43.000 kilometres and counting. Knock on wood...

[Justin Andrews]

I did a different way. The Sevcon has a second analog input, there I use my brake lever box. It has a 5KOhm poti inside and a gear to twist it with the small lever movement.

I have attached a diagram Analog Input 2 is my brake input!

But there are some standards available but I had mine 1 year before I saw this
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3027.msg14912#msg14912

Does the sevcon require reprogramming to take advantage of this set up?

[BSDThw]

You need to reprogram the Sevcon and you need to add wires to your "35 way AMPSeal connector"

[trikester]

Thanks for the information. It's too bad I didn't do this while I was wiring the e-trike. It would have been easier to do during that process.

Trikester

[Justin Andrews]

Thanks. Looks like a modification that can wait till august then (Warranty runs out, plus I need time to study and learn the bike before I start hacking into it.)
I was contemplating fitting a brake lever on the left side and tying that into the brake light logic to enable braking regen, however your idea is a lot better. 

[NoiseBoy]

Trikester, are you not concerned about locking your rear wheel on loose ground or wet tarmac?  I imagine 100% regen is equivalent to pressing quite hard on the rear brake pedal?

Im with liveandletdrive on this one.  I can't imagine that approaching a stop light, for example, at speed and then slowing suddenly with 100% regen will recover more energy than rolling gradually to a stop with 25% regen (or whatever is standard.)