ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: princec on July 01, 2023, 11:01:33 PM
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Down to Davant Bikes again today to pick up the SR/F after having the chargers fiddled with once again (short version: Zero chap claimed to have replaced them both, but actually, didn't, and then fled :D). While I was there I had a go on the DSR/X demonstrator, attractively liveried in Avocado Toilet Suite. Seriously Zero. Anyway, at least you don't have to look too much at the colour while you're riding it.
I went out for about an hour, covering about 35 miles perhaps, using about 25% of the battery, with a mix of roads between 20-70mph but no sustained motorway travel, mostly around town. So I guess that means a usefully increased range over my 14.4 SR/F, extrapolating to about 120 miles or so (I get ~100 on the SR/F in the same sort of riding). Unsurprisingly the 20% increase in range tallies almost exactly with the 20% increase in battery capacity. Why this sort of reasoning seems so difficult for other people to grasp is beyond me. Anyhoo...
Size and weight wise, feels rather like a GS Adventure. It ain't light but the weight is pretty low. It is surprisingly large. The seat is surprisingly low. The demo bike had an official large screen fitted but it simply generated big turbulent noise no matter what height I set it at. The hand adjuster is good and easy to operate, even on the move.
It's got the nice new dash that I got fitted under warranty to my SR/F, so that's nice. This one was fitted with aux lights, a metal topbox, and crashbars too. I think the handguards are standard, not sure, but all standard fare and well made. Fit and finish is very good, much better than the original crop of SR/Fs. Same crappy switchgear though.
The seat and ride is plush - really nice, vastly more comfy than the SR/F and the suspension seems to waft over bumps brilliantly unlike the SR/F which batters you. You can feel that it's more gangly than the dense and compact SR/F, and it rocks on its suspension more when you brake. The rear brake is a bit better than the risible effort on the SR/F. It rides a lot quieter than my bike too - less weird noises from the belt, more consistent spaceship sorts of sounds, and quieter. I liked it.
Speed wise, sport mode was oddly muted compared to my bike. My SR/F is genuinely scary in sport mode over 30mph - it actually makes me swear and back off. Not so the DSR/X, which whizzed about well enough, but felt muted, almost like street mode on the SR/F. It's still properly quick mind, just not scarily quick.
Didn't get to test headlight or pillion accommodation of course and I imagine the heated grips are just as good as mine.
All in all... I'd say yes. It's something I'd buy if I was looking right now and it was under £20k and had a charge tank in it. Unfortunately I want to get another 30k miles on the SR/F, and it costs £25k or something daft like that, and there are no charge tanks available yet :P
I'll write to Santa.
Cas :)
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...All in all... I'd say yes. It's something I'd buy if I was looking right now and it was under £20k and had a charge tank in it. Unfortunately I want to get another 30k miles on the SR/F, and it costs £25k or something daft like that, and there are no charge tanks available yet :P
I'll write to Santa.
From a couple of trials I've done as well, I would add three things:
- The additional 12 volt power supply cigarette lighter socket on the front is nice. On my SR/F I had to route a cable from the SAE connector going behind the tank cover, since the built-in USB sockets are not powerful enough for my power-hungry smartphone, especially because of its brightness performance (S23 Ultra).
- My girlfriend told me that the passenger seat is a significant improvement from the SR/F.
- The luggage rack is significantly larger, thus really usable.
- The kickstand base plate is also significantly larger.
- The more upright sitting position will take me some getting used to.
Overall I liked it, and thus I also have to write to Santa ;D.
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As you get older and creakier, you will come to appreciate a more upright riding position :D
Aaron
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As you get older and creakier, you will come to appreciate a more upright riding position :D
Aaron
Amen to that
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Especially coming as I did from about 15 years of riding the ubiquitous GS in its various guises. One wonders what would happen if BMW suddenly have an epiphany on that front.
Cas :)
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I'm really enjoying my DSR/X. I had a 2016 SR and the changes are pretty substantial. Definitely a larger, more solid ride. Love the dashboard. And the fact you can quick charge with a J1772 plug. My dealer (San Jose BMW) says there's a tall (1" higher) seat available for us tall guys (6'4"). I also ordered the top case.
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I'm really enjoying my DSR/X. I had a 2016 SR and the changes are pretty substantial. Definitely a larger, more solid ride. Love the dashboard. And the fact you can quick charge with a J1772 plug. My dealer (San Jose BMW) says there's a tall (1" higher) seat available for us tall guys (6'4"). I also ordered the top case.
A few questions I have about the DSR/X:
1. Does it have a reverse?
2. Can hard sidebags be added?
3. Does it charge at 6KW with a J-1772?
4. Does it have a centerstand?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Yes to all.
Cas :)
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Yes to all.
Cas :)
Thanks. I am tempted to trade some of my gas bikes in. I want to have mostly electric bikes these days.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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I just purchased a new DSR/X yesterday. The $4,500 Discount from Zero was too good to pass up. Got it for $19,500. Total out the door. Took it for a backroad rip today and did 115 miles when I pulled into the house with 5 miles to spare. It rides and handles great.
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That's a good price for one I would say. It's a genuinely good bike.
Cas :)
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I just purchased a new DSR/X yesterday. The $4,500 Discount from Zero was too good to pass up. Got it for $19,500. Total out the door. Took it for a backroad rip today and did 115 miles when I pulled into the house with 5 miles to spare. It rides and handles great.
Yep! I did that today. Either 0 percent interest at the normal price or a $4,500.00 INSTANT rebate if paid for by cash. I traded in my Stevio, which they gave me 6K$ for.
Here in Reno Eurocycles:
Cash Price: $25,990.00
Trade:- 6,000.00
Net Sale: $19,990.00
NV Sales Tax 1,682.67
Reg Fees 28.25
Doc fees 369.00
Sub total: $22,069.92
Rebate: 4,500.00
OTD price: $17,569.92
They only had around 15% SOC on the bike. The shop has around 25 new Zeros in Stock here in Reno. I never saw so many in one shop before. I think Zero is a hot seller there.
I got a green one. I have it charging in my garage right now at 6.6 KW:
-Don- Reno, NV
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I just purchased a new DSR/X yesterday. The $4,500 Discount from Zero was too good to pass up. Got it for $19,500. Total out the door. Took it for a backroad rip today and did 115 miles when I pulled into the house with 5 miles to spare. It rides and handles great.
Yep! I did that today. Either 0 percent interest at the normal price or a $4,500.00 INSTANT rebate if paid for by cash. I traded in my Stevio, which they gave me 6K$ for.
Here in Reno Eurocycles:
Cash Price: $25,990.00
Trade:- 6,000.00
Net Sale: $19,990.00
NV Sales Tax 1,682.67
Reg Fees 28.25
Doc fees 369.00
Sub total: $22,069.92
Rebate: 4,500.00
OTD price: $17,569.92
They only had around 15% SOC on the bike. The shop has around 25 new Zeros in Stock here in Reno. I never saw so many in one shop before. I think Zero is a hot seller there.
I got a green one. I have it charging in my garage right now at 6.6 KW:
-Don- Reno, NV
I do wonder, why bother with a DSR/X when you already have an Experia? Less performance, less range, slower charging, more likely to have some sort of software fault, probably worse dealer support.
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It gives you something to talk about !!
Aaron
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I do wonder, why bother with a DSR/X when you already have an Experia? Less performance, less range, slower charging, more likely to have some sort of software fault, probably worse dealer support.
Faster charging when in the Reno area where there are J-plugs all over (and most are free) that can handle 7KW. Neither of my Energicas are here in Reno right now. They are both at my Auburn house. Energica can only do 3 KW on AC.
I think Euro Cycles can do a good job on Zeros. They must sell a lot of them. They must have around 25 Zeros in stock here in Reno, the most I ever saw in any shop. They had at least two Zero DSR/X I saw one white and one green and decided on the green.
Many places only have AC charging. Such as Fallon, MiddleGate, Virginia City for a few examples for herein NV. And you can only find AC charging in places such as Downyville, Markleeville, North San Juan, in CA and countless other places. The Energicas would be perfect if they could squeeze a 6 KW AC charger in there.
New bikes are a hassle in NV. I must go to the NV DMV by appointment to register this thing. But of course, they have free J-1772 stations in the parking lot there also. (https://www.plugshare.com/location/328530)
CA DMV does this licensing stuff of new vehicles a MUCH better way than here in NV.
I am not a speed freak. I have not even tried out the Sport mode in my Experia.
Anyway, I am trying to have less ICE bikes and more electric as I ride electric the most.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Well I bought the Zero for several reasons instead of the Energica.
1. Price
2. Availability
3. 200 miles to the nearest Zero dealership and 600 miles to the nearest Energica dealership.
4. Faster level 2 charging. Where I live there are not that many CCS chargers and there are a lot more level 2. One of my favorite local destinations is 120 miles away and there are no CCS chargers there or on the way and there are level 2. I plan to add the option charging that will allow the bike to take advantage of the full 11 kw of the Tesla destination chargers.
5. The phone app gives you some geek things that I like too such as over the air firmware updates. With no local support for Energica a firmware update is a 1,200 mile trip.
I picked it up Monday and have ridden it for about 500 miles . So far I am happy with my decision.
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I do wonder, why bother with a DSR/X when you already have an Experia? Less performance, less range, slower charging, more likely to have some sort of software fault, probably worse dealer support.
Faster charging when in the Reno area where there are J-plugs all over (and most are free) that can handle 7KW. Neither of my Energicas are here in Reno right now. They are both at my Auburn house. Energica can only do 3 KW on AC.
Really? I don't know the ins and outs of public charging, only ever done it on AC once, but Plugshare shows a fair amount of Tesla chargers in the area and a few CCS. Do you really AC charge at 7kW that often anyway? I'd imagine if you're riding far enough to run down the DSR/X then having to wait 2+ hours to charge is gonna suck.
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Really? I don't know the ins and outs of public charging, only ever done it on AC once, but Plugshare shows a fair amount of Tesla chargers in the area and a few CCS. Do you really AC charge at 7kW that often anyway? I'd imagine if you're riding far enough to run down the DSR/X then having to wait 2+ hours to charge is gonna suck.
I use Tesla destination charge stations and J-plugs quite often. Places such as here, (https://www.plugshare.com/location/124842) and here (https://www.plugshare.com/location/479727) and here (https://www.plugshare.com/location/146827)where they have nothing else. And many places only have J-plugs and no CCS fast chargers for countless miles. Places such as Susanville, CA. Yes, a lot of these places have Tesla SuperChargers and nothing else.
I need to recharge almost every time I ride an electric motorcycle. Very rare on my EV cars. I do my longer rides on motorcycles.
I don't ever let it get down that far, I try to stay between 20-85% SOC or so and makes stops about as often as I can find a J-plug.
3KW is a pain. Six KW I can hack. I like to take several breaks while I am riding. I often even get on this forum when I am AC charging or having lunch or whatever in a place such as Fallon, NV (https://www.plugshare.com/location/98462)(the only fast charger there is permanently out of service).
Likewise, there are also many places that have CCS and no J-plugs. Such as BridgePort, CA. (https://www.plugshare.com/location/191333) But I see a new Tesla Destination charge station at the Bar & Grill that was not there last month. I don't know if they will let anybody use it. It does say "Tesla only", not sure if that really means what it says as I know it will work with any of my bikes. The 12KW units always work. I have trouble with the older 14KW TDSs. They often work for five minutes and go into alarm.
Where I am going can make me take a different electric bike.
It's the ICE bikes I want to reduce my numbers on, not the electrics, I ride the electrics the most of all.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Don.
As an owner of both the Zero DSR/X and the Energica Experia you should have a special insight into the comparison of these two bike. Outside of the charging and range differences how do the bikes compare in comfort, performance, handling, and overall riding enjoyment ? Do you prefer one over the other as a daily rider ?
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Don.
As an owner of both the Zero DSR/X and the Energica Experia you should have a special insight into the comparison of these two bike. Outside of the charging and range differences how do the bikes compare in comfort, performance, handling, and overall riding enjoyment ? Do you prefer one over the other as a daily rider ?
They are difficult to compare. I really enjoy them both equally but for different reasons. Between the two, which I take will be decided on the type of charge stations on the way and that is the main if not only reason for me to prefer one bike over the other.
Comfort is about the same, maybe just slightly better on the Experia--at least to me. I have not yet tried either bike in the Sport mode, I see no real need for it, so I am not the right person to ask for that type of performance. I enjoy the ride on each equally.
I can charge my 2017 Zero SR at 7.9 KW (with my external chargers) with AC and can charge my 2020 SS9- at around 24 KW with DC. I keep both of those bikes at my Auburn house.
I keep the Zero DSR/X and my Energica Experia here in Reno. So at either place, I can decide which to take by the type of charge stations in route. Seems to me we are getting more J-1772 stations, more Tesla destination charge stations as we have less CCS, mainly because they often do not work and are never repaired from what I can see. More of a problem in Nevada. Broken CCS stations include Incline Village, Hawthorne, Rye Patch, Middlegate. All of these have been broken for more than six months. But all of these places have an AC charge station there or reasonably close.
IMO, reasonable charge rates on a trip start at six KW.
And say if I want to go to say Chico, CA from here, it is 165 miles. My Experia can only make it with slow AC charging. My DSR/X can charge twice as fast on the way there. No CCS on the way.
Both bikes handle great, IMO. The Experia has better range than the DSR/X even when charged to 120%, but even the DSR/X can go farther than I want to take my breaks.
Charging to 120% takes forever, of course, so that is somewhat useless during most trips, but helps a lot when you leave from home for a long trip.
I have the sidecases, travel trunk, centerstand and crash bars on order for the DSR/X, so that could reduce my range a little. The Experia has better range than the DSR/X even with all the luggage on the Experia.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Thanks for your insight. So it still just boils down to charging. Like you, where I live there are a lot more AC chargers. I plan on adding the additional charger to my DSR/X this winter to increase the charging speed.
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Thanks for your insight. So it still just boils down to charging. Like you, where I live there are a lot more AC chargers. I plan on adding the additional charger to my DSR/X this winter to increase the charging speed.
I have mixed feelings about doing that, based on the low number J-plugs that can do more than seven KW in this area, I will often be charging at 6.6 KW anyway. But there are some 70-amp (16,800 watts) J-charge stations around northern Lake Tahoe (https://www.plugshare.com/location/44582)as well as an 80-Amp (19,200 watts) J-plug charging station at Bridgeport,CA (https://www.plugshare.com/location/546564) and a few other J-plugs that can do 12KW AC or more, especially when Tesla destinations charge stations are included.
I also do not want to give up the extra storage space of the "tank". But if I could always charge at the 13.2 KW, I would go for it.
I looked online and I see the extra 6.6 KW charger for the DSR/X costs 3K$. More if a dealer installs it. I do not know if it requires a dealer installation or not.
There is also the issue of how the AC charging will lower on hot days. If extra hot, bike cannot be charged at all. I was stuck in Carson City for several hours last year on my 2017 Zero SR with a bike that would not charge at all when it was around 102°F outside. BTW, the very first symptom that this will happen is when the bike's BMS turns off all regen while riding. I could charge enough to get home when it started to get dark and cooled off a bit.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Yes I don’t want to give up the storage either but I have a top box for my gear. Around here I have more 11 to 16 kw chargers than the 7 kw ones so I am good there. I am also in a mild climate area so over heating is not a big problem and the winter is not to bad either as long as it not raining.
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Yes I don’t want to give up the storage either but I have a top box for my gear. Around here I have more 11 to 16 kw chargers than the 7 kw ones so I am good there. I am also in a mild climate area so over heating is not a big problem and the winter is not to bad either as long as it not raining.
Do you plan on installing the extra charger yourself or are you going to have a dealer do it?
BTW, where are you located?
-Don- Reno, NV
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I am going to have the dealer install it. Max Motorsports in Birmingham Alabama. I live in Mississippi and they are the closest dealer. Probably do in in January once the temperatures drop.
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I am going to have the dealer install it. Max Motorsports in Birmingham Alabama. I live in Mississippi and they are the closest dealer. Probably do in in January once the temperatures drop.
I think I will also get another charger, mainly because of the high current Telsa Destination chargers around. I just discovered the one I am using now while charging (https://www.plugshare.com/location/124842) my DSR/X here is 80-amps. And I use this one a lot. But I still have some mixed feelings because I enjoy these long breaks as I always find something to do, such as use this computer I always take with me. I am now sitting under a shady tree.
I want to know if it is possible for me to install it myself or if special dealer equipment is required. Does anybody here know? I prefer to do it myself, if possible.
-Don- Portola, CA
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On the Zero website you can download the installation instructions. I have looked at them but didn’t read them thoroughly. I can’t imagine that there isn’t a dealer only firmware update needed. I will take another look.
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Looks like you need DIAG4Zero software on your computer and an OBD II adapter to program the chargers.
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So, effectively, no. We can't install it ourselves. Until such time as the charge curve improves on the upper end of 60+% SOC, then I find its effectiveness rather limited for the cost. Give me the storage, a large cup of coffee, croissant, and my sudoku puzzle book any day. I can wait.
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There is a post on Facebook of the charging curve of the rapid charge on the DSR/X and it took an hour and six minutes to change from 0 to 95%. It was still charging at 7 kWh at 95% too so not bad in my opinion.
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There is a post on Facebook of the charging curve of the rapid charge on the DSR/X and it took an hour and six minutes to change from 0 to 95%. It was still charging at 7 kWh at 95% too so not bad in my opinion.
That is one thing I do not understand about charging EVs.
IOW, if the charge must drop to 7KW @95% SOC, when starting with 12 KW, why does it need to drop at all @ 95% SOC when you start with a charge of 6.6 KW?
BTW, where I am charging right now, (https://www.plugshare.com/location/350518) the max this j-plug can do is 6.3 KW.
-Don- Truckee, CA
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IOW, if the charge must drop to 7KW @95% SOC, when starting with 12 KW, why does it need to drop at all @ 95% SOC when you start with a charge of 6.6 KW?
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BINGO! I'd like to know this as well.
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I want to know if it is possible for me to install it myself or if special dealer equipment is required. Does anybody here know? I prefer to do it myself, if possible.
I see the instructions for adding a 6 KW charger here. (https://learnerresources.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/113502/learner_resource_uploads/7a1131f00e458a9dad10b9b2e1/10-08376%20-%20%20FST%20ADV%20BCB%20NA%20Rapid%20Charger%20iSheet%20%2887-00157-01%29%20-%20NA%20ENG.pdf?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Credential=AKIAQZVLRHER6MLZQEAI%2F20230809%2Feu-west-1%2Fs3%2Faws4_request&X-Amz-Date=20230809T230829Z&X-Amz-Expires=30&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=host&X-Amz-Signature=dd3e03d60071327726faaf176a0f3c1e225bf7f2bbd30c56e804a7efff508e34)
It looks like the only issue is getting my hands on the "Diag4Zero USB to OBD cable" to activate it.
-Don- Reno, NV
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It's not just the software and cable (the easy part) that you need, but also the dealer level login which I believe is specific for YOUR bike. Gone are the days of a single "level 2" or "level 3", etc. password that works for all bikes. The FST platform is pretty locked down. A user can't even swap out for LED turn signals without this info. Someone please correct me if I have been mis-informed.
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And I just discovered we can order the Diag4Zero USB to OBD cable here, (https://shop.koups.com/products/zero-motorcycles-diag4zero-obd-communication-cable-special-order-86-08195) so I just did.
Looks like I will install my own additional 6KW charger to my DSR/X. When possible, I usually like to do my own work instead of dealing with shops.
When I start this project, I will mention here how it is going from start to end.
But I have not yet ordered the charge tank. I have a lot of other stuff to add first, that I will pick up any day now, such as the centerstand, crash bars, travel trunk, side cases, etc.
-Don- Reno, NV
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It's not just the software and cable (the easy part) that you need, but also the dealer level login which I believe is specific for YOUR bike. Gone are the days of a single "level 2" or "level 3", etc. password that works for all bikes. The FST platform is pretty locked down. A user can't even swap out for LED turn signals without this info. Someone please correct me if I have been mis-informed.
I knew that was a possibility.
I don't mind the $200.00 risk, but I want to know a bit more before I spend the 3K$ for the extra charger.
I was thinking that is a possibility, as my Triumph Trophy SE (TTSE) login is specific for my bike, with what they call the "dealer tool" which AFAIK, dealers do NOT use. But I do have the code for my TTSE, which I had to pay for by sending in some random numbers the tool gets from my bike. I used it to turn off my stock TPMS so I can use my own external TPMS and just let the stock one go dead. The stock internal TPMS sensors were a hassle, because the batteries in it would crap out well before the tire needs changing. And the stock TPMS sensors cost something like $300.00 each, as the batteries are NOT replaceable in the stock system TPMS sensors. The entire sensor needs to be replaced when the battery in it goes dead.
I don't know if I can pay for the passwords or numbers for my Zero DSR/X, but I should soon find out.
But the big difference here is the thingy I just purchased is made my Zero, unlike the "Dealer Tool" made by an Independant company that had nothing to do with Triumph. I assume that company figured out how to hack into all Triumphs. Zero, like Triumph, IMO, is a lot less likely to release such info.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I wonder if there's some sort of legal avenue you could go down to get the password, along the lines of right to repair and not being purposely locked out of something you own. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a legal precedent with computers coming with unknown BIOS passwords from the factory.
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I wonder if there's some sort of legal avenue you could go down to get the password, along the lines of right to repair and not being purposely locked out of something you own. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a legal precedent with computers coming with unknown BIOS passwords from the factory.
What would be rather weird is if they sell a device to the public that cannot be used because of Zero not making a PW available.
Anyway, I will soon enough find out how all this works when I receive mine.
And I will post here all about that, of course.
-Don- Reno, NV
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I'd imagine if you're riding far enough to run down the DSR/X then having to wait 2+ hours to charge is gonna suck.
Reading some older posts here.
I like to take a break about every hour or less, so if there is a charge station around, my charge time isn't all that long at each stop. A two-hour charge time from empty to full does NOT mean every charge stop will be for two hours. If possible, it's best to stay in the 20% to 80% SOC range and then the time to charge isn't all that long.
In most cases, I enjoy the charge stops.
-Don- Reno, NV
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IOW, if the charge must drop to 7KW @95% SOC, when starting with 12 KW, why does it need to drop at all @ 95% SOC when you start with a charge of 6.6 KW?
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BINGO! I'd like to know this as well.
For the battery to charge, you raise the charge voltage above the battery voltage. The more the charge voltage is raised, the more current is drawn from the battery. At some point when charging at high SOC, your charge voltage becomes the maximum allowed voltage for the pack and cannot increase (This would be where CC turns into CV). Voltage cannot continue to raise and draw more current, so the current falls as the SOC climbs. The BMS could also request to limit charge current at high SOC to accommodate differences in cell voltage, to protect cells with a higher voltage from going beyond their designed maximum voltage.
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Literally doesn't matter if you have the password. It requires a server handshake that only Zero and dealers have. Again: having a password doesn't do anything on FST bikes.
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Literally doesn't matter if you have the password. It requires a server handshake that only Zero and dealers have. Again: having a password doesn't do anything on FST bikes.
So why do they sell the thingy to the public?
-Don- Reno, NV
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For the battery to charge, you raise the charge voltage above the battery voltage. The more the charge voltage is raised, the more current is drawn from the battery. At some point when charging at high SOC, your charge voltage becomes the maximum allowed voltage for the pack and cannot increase (This would be where CC turns into CV). Voltage cannot continue to raise and draw more current, so the current falls as the SOC climbs. The BMS could also request to limit charge current at high SOC to accommodate differences in cell voltage, to protect cells with a higher voltage from going beyond their designed maximum voltage.
So it because of the switch to CV, based on the charge rate to start with.
To me that sounds like a design issue that can be fixed. Perhaps will be someday.
IAC, thanks for the explanation.
-Don- Reno, NV
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So why do they sell the thingy to the public?
I have no idea what you bought, and the page description is of no help.
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I have no idea what you bought, and the page description is of no help.
I assume you mean the description on this page. (https://shop.koups.com/products/zero-motorcycles-diag4zero-obd-communication-cable-special-order-86-08195)Well, I have no idea either, but I guess I will soon find out.
Probably a $200.00 OBD2 reader. I assume it must be good for something.
Anyway, I will post here what it is when I receive it.
BTW, I charged my Zero DSR/X in Reno to 110% and then rode it here to Auburn, CA 99.0 miles, driveway to driveway as measured on several different cars. But the bike says it is a few miles more on its odometer (103 miles). It used up 100% of the charge, I had 10% SOC left when I got to my driveway. This was all on I-80 around 50% uphill and then around 50% downhill.
I am glad I do NOT have to see a useless (IMAO) miles of range left on the screen. This bike is 1% SOC per mile at freeway speeds.
BTW, anybody here know what happens at Zero SOC on this bike? Is there a limp mode? How many miles can I go when I hit zero SOC?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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I don’t know what happens at 1% but I have ridden mine down to 6% and nothing happened. Performed normally.
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I don’t know what happens at 1% but I have ridden mine down to 6% and nothing happened. Performed normally.
Yeah, I noticed no difference when I was down at 10% SOC. Unlike Energica, there are no warnings that the SOC is getting low. Or if there is, I have not yet seen it.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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On the SR/F performance drops off noticeably every 20% or so SOC. Which might be purely psychosomatic, it could be dead linear but you tend to notice the nice round figures I suppose. At under 20% giving full throttle in sport mode doesn't give any more than street mode and it struggles to get over 70mph. I tend to stick to street mode to avoid the inconsistency.
Lowest SOC I've had is 15% or so, after 100 miles of relatively normal riding (no motorways). The much-ridiculed YammieNoob took one down to 0% and managed 85 miles out of it before it went into a drastic limp mode for a couple of miles before completely conking out.
Cas :)
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I don't ride like a hooligan (no offense to anyone who does), but I honestly have never been able to discern any difference in performance at different SOC. I've only been down to 3%, but I've heard people say that you can get another 10 miles at 0%, though I find that a bit hard to believe myself.
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On the SR/F performance drops off noticeably every 20% or so SOC. Which might be purely psychosomatic, it could be dead linear but you tend to notice the nice round figures I suppose. At under 20% giving full throttle in sport mode doesn't give any more than street mode and it struggles to get over 70mph. I tend to stick to street mode to avoid the inconsistency.
Lowest SOC I've had is 15% or so, after 100 miles of relatively normal riding (no motorways). The much-ridiculed YammieNoob took one down to 0% and managed 85 miles out of it before it went into a drastic limp mode for a couple of miles before completely conking out.
Cas :)
That could explain why I notice no difference. I have yet to even try out the sport mode. The normal standard / street modes have more power & torque than I will ever want.
No need to ever speed on an electric bike, if any charge stops are needed. We make better times by riding slower. This is even true with so-called fast charging on an Energica, as well as with 12KW charging on Zeros.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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The acceleration on the SR/F in Sport is really pretty breathtaking though. Makes overtakes quite entertaining, but it sort of doesn't have the lovely throttle response in Street at small openings. The DSR/X isn't nearly so scary fast though - it seems to be more linear. Wonder if anyone's done any standing quarters yet.
Cas :)
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I don't ride like a hooligan (no offense to anyone who does), but I honestly have never been able to discern any difference in performance at different SOC. I've only been down to 3%, but I've heard people say that you can get another 10 miles at 0%, though I find that a bit hard to believe myself.
The rumors are true. On my 2017 SR I've done several miles at freeway speeds on US-101 in SF at 0% and then another several miles across the city at 15 MPH in the bike lane before it finally conked out on me two blocks from home. The freeway portion was scary, since the wild-guess-o-meter took me from a comfortable but close-shave SoC when I entered the Bay Bridge to 0% before I hit Treasure Island, but luckily for me the traffic was characteristically bad and my rapidly declining top speed matched the ~30 MPH average speed of traffic. I believe that trip came out to 77 mostly-highway miles on a 13.0 kWh nominal battery with ~18% degradation, which is much higher than I've ever managed on my Energica SS9 13.4. I think the FST bikes don't let you get away with quite that much abuse, but the S-platform bikes really used to let you treat the battery like a rented mule.
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The acceleration on the SR/F in Sport is really pretty breathtaking though. Makes overtakes quite entertaining, but it sort of doesn't have the lovely throttle response in Street at small openings. The DSR/X isn't nearly so scary fast though - it seems to be more linear. Wonder if anyone's done any standing quarters yet.
Cas :)
I have done a test ride on a SR/F in the sport mode, just after the bikes came out. It was very impressive, but that type of performance is not anything I look for. I am more of a slow touring rider, which means I can get reasonable ranges on my electric bikes.
-Don- Reno, NV