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[nevetsyad]

I’m not mechanical at all, but I managed to plunk in a two module SC 2.0 in my tank and run all connections. With the cables being run even easier from the pan, it seems like it wouldn’t take long. Especially if Brandon pre-wires and attached all hardware to the magic pan. Connect an inlet to it and connect it to th bike’s aux port. Done.

I can be wrong of course, but this is my understanding of the new setup.

[MVetter]

We actually run most of the chargers (assuming we're dealing with 3) to the bike's controller in the rear which is also the best place to mount the control board. Also we take the plug that was previously going into the stock charger and plug it into our control board. This is how our board is able to talk to the bike now, so we need it.

[nevetsyad]

No more AUX port fuse to pop. Very cool!

[heroto]

What is the weight penalty? Is some of the stock charging ballast removed?

[MVetter]

What is the weight penalty? Is some of the stock charging ballast removed?

I haven't weighed our 3-in-the-pan setup next to the stock Zero charger in their pan side by side. I should probably do that. Ours will be heavier undoubtedly but you are also getting about 10x the charging power. Also the more you add weight down there the closer your bike gets to becoming a Weeble!
 

[lenart11]

It would be very helpful if someone could post some pics of a finished 3.3 or 6.6 SCV2.5 pan installation. I am wondering what the pan looks like and how the charge port is mounted. Also, if I go with J1772, do you provide an adapter so I can still plug into a regular 110 outlet? Ideally, I'd like to be able to plug into J1772, Tesla Destination/wall charger, NEMA 14-50, and 110. Hopefully, all this info will be on your new website! Thanks.

[MVetter]

It would be very helpful if someone could post some pics of a finished 3.3 or 6.6 SCV2.5 pan installation. I am wondering what the pan looks like and how the charge port is mounted. Also, if I go with J1772, do you provide an adapter so I can still plug into a regular 110 outlet? Ideally, I'd like to be able to plug into J1772, Tesla Destination/wall charger, NEMA 14-50, and 110. Hopefully, all this info will be on your new website! Thanks.

Here's the thing: Our units won't be noticeable on the bike. They're in an enclosed belly pan. There's no way to know just by looking at the outside if they have 1, 2, or 3 units (unless there are 2 J1772 inlets which is a giveaway for 3).

This bike has a prototype pan with 3 units installed:

There's nothing really obvious to see which is a good thing for the bulk of customers who want to keep things looking stock.

As far as adapters, we can make a lot of modular adapters. The idea, for people who want a *lot* of different options available, is to have adapters that feed into a J Gun which goes into your chargers. Put the 14-50 plug on and attach it to the J gun. Need a 110? Unplug the 14-50 end and attach the 110 end, etc. You could run dedicated ones for each type but that adds up quick because J guns are expensive.

[Doug S]

You could run dedicated ones for each type but that adds up quick because J guns are expensive.

Question. I remember looking up the J1772 "connector" a while back, and found that it was just a plastic housing around an existing connector series from somebody....seems to me maybe Siemens?

If you got rid of the (worthless) plastic gun housing, the bare connector should fit fine and be both cheaper and smaller. It wouldn't look like a gas filler then, but as far as I'm concerned that's a good thing. You might also lose the mechanical lock, I wouldn't have too much heartburn about that either.

I've since looked for that connector again, but I can't find it. Does anybody know what that connector is? It would be nice to cut out some of the expense and bulk when you're carrying it around with you.

[lenart11]

MVetter Thanks for the info! That makes sense to just have a single J Gun with an adapter for Tesla, 14-50, and 110. Is the new belly pan significantly larger than the stock pan? Also, how is the charge port mounted on stock bikes without side boxes? Some good photos of the finished product would be super helpful, although I understand that you are just starting to roll this out and may not have many photos yet. Thanks again.

[MVetter]

The new pan isn't significantly larger than the stock pan, no. It is larger and sturdier, but I wouldn't say significantly. I will eventually want to put up side-by-side pics. For now here's a prototype picture: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10159539225675366&set=gm.1496048510464352&type=3&theater&ifg=1

As far as the inlet mounting that's really up to the user to decide; everyone has their own thoughts where they'd like it to go. I will say a popular location that is out of the way is next to the passenger pegs. It doesn't stick out, it's easy to get to. Brandon tends to mount his on the left which I'm not partial to only because when the bike is charging and, more than likely, on the kickstand the right side is more exposed and easily accessible. Really to each their own.

[Emtkopan]

Once you remove the old charging unit you will no longer be able to charge from a 110v without an adapter/ conversation unit. Mine cost about $130 I think on top of the new chargers I bought. That is something that’s not made known. Any other adapters/converters you want to buy will cost you at least that much or more. I looked at the NEMA (sp?) for camp grounds and it was $400-$500. I don’t even know how much a Tesla one is. While having multiple adapters would be nice just know they are costly. Also when charging at 110v you have to change a setting in the charging unit via an app. At least that’s my understanding. I’m waiting for mine to come in. Morgan has sent me pictures of an install and it looks fairly easy. I think the hard part will be cramming all that wiring back in where the wiring on the old charger was.

[MVetter]

I think we were installing the special switch in yours so you won't have to fuss with the app. But we're only doing the switch for a select few because it's extra work and time is precious.

[Burton]

Can run a dedicated C14 inline with the power supply for the j-plug to save the need to buy a more expensive JPlug adaptor?

JPlug > Inline Connector > power in
                                    > C14 (or another anderson connector for use a general aux port to be used with 5-15, 14-50, etc.)

Or does the JPlug need to send a signal to the CCU ?

[Scotchman]

I think we were installing the special switch in yours so you won't have to fuss with the app. But we're only doing the switch for a select few because it's extra work and time is precious.

So can you confirm that the normal operation is that to switch between 110v and J1772, you need to first configure the charger with an app? 

[MVetter]

I think we were installing the special switch in yours so you won't have to fuss with the app. But we're only doing the switch for a select few because it's extra work and time is precious.

So can you confirm that the normal operation is that to switch between 110v and J1772, you need to first configure the charger with an app?

Let me try and break this down in a way that makes sense because I promise there's a reason even if it sounds weird at first. So remember that our charging units are modular 3.3kW units by themselves. They can stack together into multiples of that number for charging purposes (3.3, 6.6, 9.9, 13.2, etc.)

It makes the most sense to tie the chargers together so they're all feeding off one inlet, and by that I mean plugging in one thing turns all the chargers on and starts feeding the bike power. HOWEVER. In the US, the most common EV plug is the J1772 or J Plug. EV stations that use these are notoriously inconsistent and a huge amount of them will trip if you try and take more than 7kW out of them. Well crap that's an interesting dilemma.

Oh, I know! What if we just tie two chargers together at a time (6.6kW) and each dual unit gets a J inlet! That way you can just pull from multiple stations every 2 units and never break the station. This is exactly how the US version of the 3 units in the pan is set up. 2 of the chargers are tied to 1 J1772 inlet, and one is on its own. We refer to it as Double J or 'Dub J' charging. This means that in both the 3.3kW single charger setup, and the 9.9kW Dub J setup there is a single SuperCharger on its own J1772 inlet pulling about 16A. If you run an adapter to this and plug it into a 110V wall outlet the charger will not pull enough to trip your breaker on its own. This makes life simple with both the single and triple units. Simple is good.

Turns out a lot of people want the 6.6kW setup where both chargers are tied into the same J1772 inlet. Plugging that into the wall will definitely trip your breaker. Crap. Oh, I know, what if we just have the customer issue a Bluetooth command to throttle the chargers' rate  so it won't trip the breaker? That works!

And that was more or less Brandon's thought process.