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Clearly this is a charging profile although it may be much simpler to create than it looks. But the charger could decide to turn off current immediately when full voltage is reached. It does not. It let's the battery "soak" for a period of time, surely useful for cell balancing near full charge. Integrating the declining current would represent a significant amount of charge, perhaps 100Wh or so in this case. It is probably a very simple decision by the charger, stop when the current drops below ~2 amps (caused by the gradual increase in the battery voltage), and not a regulated current/time curve. But regardless, a profile is created. Would battery health be reduced if the full voltage soak time interval was not done? I think so. Would a more sophisticated profile be even better? Possibly, only a lot of real battery life cycle testing could determine that. And as a practical matter, the person wants to use the battery, not wait indefinitely while a reluctant cell (maybe, given more time or a different current) reaches its "ideal" voltage. 

Your relay scheme will probably work fine. The contactors can handle a lot of inrush current, but without precharge the initial current is theoretically infinite, limited in reality by the wire, inductance and capacitor imperfection. The Zero will close the contactor with a pretty large voltage difference, including between two modular packs which then equalize instantly.  So precharge doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to be.

Having the year ranges makes it much easier to know whether some salvaged parts might fit your machine, this is extremely useful, don't split them.

It would also be great to have information about equivalent interchangeable parts from other manufacturers, but that's going to be sparse and hard to find. For example I know this about the rear sprocket for my 2016 FX, don't know how I found it: equivalent to '03 - '07 KTM 85 SX (132mm diameter M8 4-bolt circle, 110mm center hole dia.)

I do hear two clicks on my FX, but they are sometimes so close together that they sound like one. I've had broken connectors and used my ears to reassure me that both packs are on. You'll know they are not if you get half the range or lose power at high speeds. It can also happen that the two packs' SOC are very unequal and that should cause the bike to use only one pack until the SOC's are close enough to be connected together. The harness connects the packs directly in parallel so the voltages need to be close or a large current will flow as they equalize when connected by the contactors.

Ah thanks. You've reminded me of my promise to write a more forgiving decoder. Not riding much lately so it could happen.

Alta qualified for front row, made it to check point 8 in the top 20, but ran out of battery before the planned swap, dnf. Still very impressive. Only 23 finished out of 500 bikes.

There was a series of bad errors on 05/05/2018 11:46 where the motor controller was upset and the MBB said "Contactor Welded". This "Bmvolts: 102125, Cmvolts: 132687" might indicate more voltage after the contactor than the battery had, but I've never seen that message before and I've looked at a lot of logs (I wrote the parser). But maybe something caused a voltage spike to remain on the controller while the contactor should have been open. That could freak out the MBB and cause it to shut things down. But there was no charging around that date. The charging on 5/10 might be what you describe but the log ends without any sign of trouble. Maybe something was lost in editing or due to the commissioning.

Anyway a BMS reset might have fixed the problem too, possibly easier than removing the fuse.