ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Burton on June 21, 2014, 02:59:12 AM
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Disclaimer Disclaimer Disclaimer Disclaimer
I am not responsible for your ignorance!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S52pcmL2Lq8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S52pcmL2Lq8)
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In that case, I won't try it. :o
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Fortunatly i'm not ignorant!. 8) .I did that mod on my 2011 and 2012 and it work really well!
In case you dont need 30A at 12V but that about 5A is enuogh for you, instead of buying some of these expensive DC-DC, just buy a 12V 5A switching power supply on ebay for about 9$. most of them can take DC and sometime as low as 40V!... the rectifire inside become useless and the DC travel directly thru 2 of the 4 diodes.
i'm using that kind of "DC-DC" on all my ebikes for 8 years now and it work realy well!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-5-Amp-12V-5A-DC-Supply-AC-Power-Adapter-LCD-/200774923425 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-5-Amp-12V-5A-DC-Supply-AC-Power-Adapter-LCD-/200774923425)
Doc
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Doc, I got the question on where to find a 12vdc always on source from someone on the forums via a message. I would never imply you didn't know about this already ^_^
That stated your solution is a great idea. I have some of these sitting around which are pretty similar I will have to do some testing on :)
BTW I would love to see a webpage / blog of yours highlighting all your mods and adventures outside this forum if you have such a source.
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BTW I would love to see a webpage / blog of yours highlighting all your mods and adventures outside this forum if you have such a source.
Yeah, I know i receive alot of demand for that, but it's hard to find time for these things!
My previious youtube account was about 1.3milion view with over 200 video of ebike stuff. I lost it by mistake when i wanted to delete my google+ account i was not using and that i was tired of the two account choice i had every time i wanted to log in
I did not know that youtube anc google was together.. lol... Damn it !!
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I thought that when the bike was off that the battery was disabled to all devices. I know that the main battery terminals are off. Apparently, from what I'm reading here, there is 103 VDC going to the DC/DC converter input at all times. And the converter enable signal input is all that keeps 12 V off. Is that correct?
Trikester
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hi Burton , that's some really great info on the DC to DC converter . I'm trying to learn everything I can about my new bike. I look forward to see in the wiring diagrams , keep up the good work. Jim
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It appears I wasn't the first to find it just the first to share it ? idk
Anyway the wire diagram is largely complete. Now I have to refine it to fit on a canvas then test print it for those who want to print it. That said there are going to be somethings which are not stock but I think I have removed those from the diagram so we should be good.
I doubt whatever I release will be the final version so I will try to push it out asap. Might find time tonight to do some editing :)
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Great info, Burton. I can't for the life of me figure out what anybody wants to "turn on" with a remote, but I guess it's nice to know it can be done. It WOULD be nice to have continuous 12V for an alarm or the like.
Zero sales told me their accessory kit makes 10A available at 12VDC (of course, really 13.3V as seen on ICE vehicles), but they wouldn't (or couldn't) tell me if that maxes out the step-down converter or if it's just a limitation on the accessory socket, the wire gauge they use, or something else. Do you know what the converter is rated for, and what max load the bike puts on it? If there really is only 10A available, do you know if Sevcon makes a higher-capacity converter that would fit? I'm not going to go crazy right now, but I could see adding lighting, onboard cell phone recharging, a good horn, etc. to easily use up 10A.
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Great info, Burton. I can't for the life of me figure out what anybody wants to "turn on" with a remote, but I guess it's nice to know it can be done
I believe I was the one who originally asked Burton if he had info on how to wire up an "always on" 12V source for an RFID ignition. A key just feels like 20th century technology on what I would consider a 21st century bike. I asked Zero tech support for some pointers as well but they didn't want me sabotaging the warranty. It would be killer if my bike just "knew me" and all I had to do was get on the bike, put up the kickstand and go. Insert theme music from Knight Rider here ;)
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I posted a relevant response here: http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4006.msg24907#msg24907 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4006.msg24907#msg24907)
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Great info, Burton. I can't for the life of me figure out what anybody wants to "turn on" with a remote, but I guess it's nice to know it can be done
I believe I was the one who originally asked Burton if he had info on how to wire up an "always on" 12V source for an RFID ignition. A key just feels like 20th century technology on what I would consider a 21st century bike. I asked Zero tech support for some pointers as well but they didn't want me sabotaging the warranty. It would be killer if my bike just "knew me" and all I had to do was get on the bike, put up the kickstand and go. Insert theme music from Knight Rider here ;)
I'm thinking of powering a Raspberry Pi or an arduino using doc's solution. Both are easily powered by USB and both can interface to RFID.
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I'm thinking of powering a Raspberry Pi or an arduino using doc's solution. Both are easily powered by USB and both can interface to RFID.
(Youtube link) RFID lock with arduino tiny (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YttDmY8C1vA) Shows example, includes links to supplies and source code on github
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I have been using the simple RFID reader you can find at dangerousthings on my bike now for years ... it works ... and if wired right even if it doesn't work you can revert back to a single push button start if you like. I have a switch used to turn the power supply on so the 12vdc circuit isn't draining the battery at all times.
I know of some other people who have used this 12vdc always on source solution to power other things on their bikes as well ... just make sure you seal everything up when you branch off to your power supply. And you might want to put fuses in place for anything you attach to your new 12vdc always on source. It is good practice and will make things tidy when you start adding more than one accessory.
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Were you still planning to use a key for the steering lock? If the RFID reader is in addition to the key your supply would need to be always on.
The best way with RFID (or NFC) is to embed the chip on your hand. That way you'll never forget your key.
https://0xfred.wordpress.com/2014/05/23/my-nfc-implant/
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Were you still planning to use a key for the steering lock? If the RFID reader is in addition to the key your supply would need to be always on.
Not sure who you directed this question at but my bike didn't come with an ignition key since it was modified for racing so I don't have steering lock on the bike.
The best way with RFID (or NFC) is to embed the chip on your hand. That way you'll never forget your key.
https://0xfred.wordpress.com/2014/05/23/my-nfc-implant/
This guy met the author / owner of dangerousthings and decided to do what he had done many years before. You can pick up the same systems (for both the door, the hand implants etc) at his site as well. ;)
I did not go the implant way as I like external things I can give to people on the spot to use as keys for my devices which have RFID access. Being we ride motorcycles there is a very slim chance it could be damaged during a get-off as well ... imagine that happening and not being able to get into say your house afterwards :/