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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: lavectrix on October 18, 2015, 06:41:11 AM
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Just ordered a '15 S after a long demo including some night riding. The stock headlight is okay, but I plan to upgrade that to an LED right away. I'm also planning to add a couple of forkmounted conspicuity/driving lights to help illuminate dark curves at night and increase visibility during the day. Anybody gone through this? Clearwater lights look like good quality and lots of output, but they offer a CANBUS connection or a non-CANBUS connection. Anyone know if the Zero is CANBUS equipped?
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I have added Denali and they are just awesome!
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I've a set of Molten Rhok illuminated wheel trims, and a set of home brew side lights on the battery casing (which no longer work very well at the moment, and I'm making a newer more robust set.)
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I have Rigid Industries D2 (high/lows) on my FX. Love them.
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I've got a set of the Denali D4s that I haven't figured out how to mount yet. Hopefully I'll get that done this week before the days get too short.
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SoundMusic: Did you put them on yourself? If so, was it complicated? Thanks.
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Yes, I installed the Denali's myself.
It is very easy to do so.
They look great and boy what a difference in lighted area on the road. They put the Zero headlamp to shame.
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Later today, I'll send a photo of my bike showing the Denali's.
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Thanks, SoundMusic!
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Uses cigarette lighter adapter for power. Twenty bucks and 20 minutes.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/16/074a93d85ce6904d420d6d678f5c3708.jpg)
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@erimurca - Are those Denalis? If so, what mounting kit did you use?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/16/074a93d85ce6904d420d6d678f5c3708.jpg)
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Yes, Denalli DM with this kit http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/denali-fender-mount-kit-for-dm-driving-lights . Looks very good !
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Does anyone know where I can get a suitable connector for adding lights? I don't want to cut into the harness.
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I suggest to use Zero connector
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/890edde1f85e120b9e7462cfa4e611bd.jpg)
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So then, I'm finally getting around to installing my Denali D2s.
The instructions (http://www.revzilla.com/assets/0000/8724/denali_d2_led_driving_light_kit.pdf) say to connect the 2 wires from the Denali controller box to the 12V battery terminals. The positive wire has an in-line 5amp fuse. Both wires end in ring terminals.
Of course we don't have a 12V battery on our Zeros. Any recommendations on what to connect these 2 wires to?
Should I connect them to the SAE connector I've heard tell of? If so, would it be best to use a SAE battery tender, such as this one (http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM-12-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41VsIIrwInL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1W0P500TFV6XMC3QZ4EB)?
Thanks!
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I installed the Denali D2s today. The mounting and wiring were straightforward. The hard part for me was finding a place for all the harness cable.
I used these L brackets (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/twisted-throttle-l-bracket-2-5-inch-black) to mount the lights to the lower allen screws that mount the headlight assembly to the bike.
I chose the "Standard dual intensity (high and low)" option. Connect blue Denali wire to high beam wire (red/black), white Denali wire to "running light" wire (brown if I recall correctly).
Don't confuse the bike's "low beam" wire with "running light" wire. At first I connected the white wire to the low beam wire (red/yellow). But when I turned on the brights the Denali's turned off. The low beam wire no longer had voltage/current with the high beam on. The white wire needs to go to switched 12V.
I used the SAE connector to connect the Denali "controller" to power. I bought this SAE connector (http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM-12-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00), cut off the ring terminals on it, cut off the ring terminals on the Denali harness, and crimped them together. Used heat gun to shrink the heat shrink tubing of the crimped connectors.
The Denali D2 wiring harness has a lot of cable. It took me a couple hours to route it all so that I could put the tank plastic back on successfully. I chose not to mount the on/off button since I always want the lights on. I just left it in the "on" state tucked in with the harness.
Tomorrow I'll ride 45 minutes to work in the dark and see how they do.
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I tested the Denali D2s this morning. They were a big improvement over the stock headlamp. However... I do regret not getting the D4s instead. I had hoped for better distance viewing than the D2s provide in high beam mode. For speeds under 45 mph the D2s would be enough. The D4s would be better for my commute speed which is about 70 mph.
Rather than replace the D2s with D4s I might wait until I see some DXs used or on sale. Then I can supplement the D2s with the DXs. The D2s provide good spread while the DXs would give good distance. In that case I'll either have to give up the tank bag space to wiring harness or shorten the wiring harnesses by cutting out sections of them.
I installed the Denali D2s today. The mounting and wiring were straightforward. The hard part for me was finding a place for all the harness cable.
I used these L brackets (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/twisted-throttle-l-bracket-2-5-inch-black) to mount the lights to the lower allen screws that mount the headlight assembly to the bike.
I chose the "Standard dual intensity (high and low)" option. Connect blue Denali wire to high beam wire (red/black), white Denali wire to "running light" wire (brown if I recall correctly).
Don't confuse the bike's "low beam" wire with "running light" wire. At first I connected the white wire to the low beam wire (red/yellow). But when I turned on the brights the Denali's turned off. The low beam wire no longer had voltage/current with the high beam on. The white wire needs to go to switched 12V.
I used the SAE connector to connect the Denali "controller" to power. I bought this SAE connector (http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM-12-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00), cut off the ring terminals on it, cut off the ring terminals on the Denali harness, and crimped them together. Used heat gun to shrink the heat shrink tubing of the crimped connectors.
The Denali D2 wiring harness has a lot of cable. It took me a couple hours to route it all so that I could put the tank plastic back on successfully. I chose not to mount the on/off button since I always want the lights on. I just left it in the "on" state tucked in with the harness.
Tomorrow I'll ride 45 minutes to work in the dark and see how they do.