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I looked at the crappy $30 10-ton units w/o handles and went the next step up for a 16-ton one with extra dies and decent handles with a grip on them.

I wish I could just keep it in the top box, as it's a nice self-contained unit. It really has a serious effect on the handling of the bike though, and makes me worry about emergency braking[1], in addition to the worries about the rack structural limits.

I'm hoping I can get fancy and run the cables through small grommets in the bags before terminating them. I'd like to just be able to pull up, flip the bags open for cooling, and plug the J-1772 in. We'll see. At worst I'll be eliminating the horrid tight-radius bends in the cables to make everything barely reach.

[1] I live in Florida, which means emergency braking at least once a day.

Edit: and the BMW shop has a Energica Eva on the floor, just begging to go home with me. My SR isn't paid off until this coming Halloween though.

I have a couple Elcon 2500s that I put in an old Givi E45 topbox.

Unfortunately, the Y-connector is now about 6" too short to reach the socket behind the motor.

Is there anywhere I can get an extension with the necessary Andersen plugs and CANBUS wiring?

I considered just using another Y-connector but then I'd have a live empty plug waving around when I'm charging...

Doe anyone sell anything like this?

Thanks...

I'll wait until the next regular service to have it done because there is no indication of any problem or improvement right now.

Actually, there's a couple improvements on my '15 SR.  I've ridden it on some long trips every day since (vacation) and the range & percent-charged indications seem to be far more accurate. Before, it was optimistic, overestimating the range by about 20% (maybe 30%) then really dropping quickly to zero once it was below about 28%  I even had it say I had 144 miles of range once after charging.

Also, the percent-charged would "stick" at 100% for a while. Now I go a mile or so and it actually does drop to 99%-98%

Today, it said 77 miles range, and I had 60 miles to go to get home. I decided to trust it, and when I got home, it said I had 14 miles left. That's much better. Before it would have dropped to zero about 5 miles from home and I would have had to limp in. Done that, and it sucks.

The day before I'd actually chickened out and come home early, only to find I did have enough range left, which is why I decided to wing it and trust it.

I kind of depend on the range because it's my main transportation and I end up running a lot of little errands on it. So it's nice to see it a little more sane.

Well, I took my 2015 SR in for the firmware upgrade, and I am absolutely in SHOCK.

I had a pleasant dealership repair experience, for about the third time in 30 years.

I expected all sorts of hassle and grief and pain, so I was dreading it. The dealership has changed hands about 4 times in the past 8 years, and several people told me "don't take your bike there, they'll mess it up!" but obviously I didn't have much choice.

I got there about 9:30am and they didn't give me any static at all. We filled out the service order, I signed it, the other tech got my bike from the parking lot in the mean time, and I went to sit in the showroom. Half an hour, the tech came and told me I was ready to go home. That's it!

Nobody made teeth sucking noises or heavy sighs, or "oh that doesn't REALLY need to be done"[1] or "we need to set up a time with a Zero tech" or "that will be expensive"[1][2] or "we won't work on it unless you bring it in on a trailer, and our trailer fee is $500"[2] or other crap.

I had brought my official letter in case they tried to charge a fee or told me it wasn't needed or anything.

I was actually expecting to make an appointment for the service. I didn't expect them to be able to do it then and there.

It's very strange to have a Zero ride silently up, especially when it's your bike. It really is completely silent... no whine, tire noise or anything.

It's kind of a strange dealership. They sell every off-brand of bike, including Suzuki, Polaris, Victory, Royal Enfield, RZR, Zero, Indian, and Ural. However they don't stock ANY sort of gear or accessories. No helmets, gloves, jackets, rain suits, bike covers, saddlebags, backrests, exhausts, tank bags, Clymers, magazines, tools, oil, etc. No wall of accessories, farkles, toys, knickknacks, etc behind the parts counter. They have the branded Indian jacket/helmet locked in a frame on the wall. Ditto for the branded Zero jacket.

This is Sky Powersports in Longwood, FL, a little north of Orlando.

I've noticed a lot of little differences. The range reading makes a lot more sense now and isn't all over the place. The battery percentage doesn't stay at 100% for a long time. The bike just clicks off when you unplug it, no minute worth of drama and clicks and flashing lights.

[1] My local Yamaha dealer said that when my FJR had an ECU recall. I had to go to another Yamaha dealer to get it done. Took the other dealer about 5 minutes to remove the old ECU and plug in a new one, since I had left that part of the fairing off. No charge.

[2] My local Yamaha dealer said that when my FJR had an ignition switch recall, which did leave me stranded a week later - fortunately only two blocks from home. I had to order the ignition switch recall kit and install it MYSELF. Oh yeah, and this is the Yamaha dealer where I bought my Zero, only to have them then insist I could install my Power Tank myself (which screwed up my bike) then stop being a Zero dealer (but I think Zero told them they weren't a Zero dealer any more)

Quote from: togo on May 01, 2017, 11:18:22 PM

The diginow dongle powers itself from the OBD-II, so clearly there's power on the port.  But not referenced to the same ground, you are saying?

There is, but not on a regular pin. A common OBD2-Bluetooth connector like CrashCash is using is expecting 12V on pin 16 for power, Zero uses one of the vendor specific pins for 3.3V. I guess DigiNow is using this one.

Thanks... I wondered that myself!

I've linked this from the wiki diagnostics section: http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Diagnostics

Cool, thanks!

Awesome.  Did you see can-utils? 

Actually, it turns out I'm using a variant of can-utils that seems a bit more updated.

I've now managed to add power to the OBD-II port and get that working. I had to move the port from where it was just about inaccessible. I'm not an arthroscopic surgeon and my hands are the size of ham hocks.

I've also written my first cut at the Android app. I've ridden around and it's strange to see it update correctly. (that's why I like embedded stuff, when it finally works, it's a weird feeling)

It's mostly the range circles (full range and half range) plus you can set home/destination markers to help you keep track of things.

The link straight to the GitHub repo is https://github.com/CrashCash/BatteryRange and it has screenshots.

I now have a set of info pages at https://crashcash.github.io/ that discusses how I relocated the port and added power to pin #16. There's some other general-interest bike stuff there too.

There's a "bike weekend" in Leesburg (http://leesburgbikefest.com/) so I'll use that as a test run.

For my '15 SR, I got the stock Zero 2014 mirrors. Instead of the normal style with a stalk that goes up, these have a stalk that goes horizontally.

This places the mirrors a hands-width above the tips of the handlebars. No more "yup, shoulders still there!" problem for me.

Greetings. This is kind of long...

I went to Daytona during Bike Week on my 2015 SR.
I found out that the bike would make it from Orlando to Daytona without charging, which was a surprise.
This was a surprise because I stop to charge the bike far more often than I need to, since I don't really have a mental handle on the range versus distance to the things I'm interested in.
The range *says* I can get to Daytona. Does it mean it? Can I trust it? It would be nice if I had real-time feedback.

I figured I needed to write an Android app to display a map with a range circle continuously updated from the bike.
This meant I needed to buckle down and decode the CANBUS data, if possible.

I managed to decode not only the range, but also the speed, mode selected (sport/eco/custom), motor temp, motor RPM, and the error number(s) on dash.

Here are my notes on that.

CANBUS is available on the OBD-II connector located above and behind the motor next to the accessory charging port, on the right-hand side.
On my 2015, it's buried deep in there. It's like birthing a cow. On the newer models, it's under the seat.

Installation:
* Bolt PiCAN 2 Duo board to Raspberry Pi
$70 from http://copperhilltech.com/pican2-duo-can-bus-board-for-raspberry-pi-2/
I should have actually used a plain PiCan 2 for $47 and had a nice DB-9 connector
http://copperhilltech.com/pican-2-can-interface-for-raspberry-pi/

* I'm not going to go into much detail on the Raspberry Pi stuff because there's tons of tutorials that explain things far better than I can.
Also, since my desktop environment is Debian Linux, I don't how you would do things like ssh or scp in Windows.

* Install Raspbian Jessie Lite on the SD card.
Note that ssh is now disabled by default, as per https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/a-security-update-for-raspbian-pixel/
This kills me because I usually use my Raspberry Pis headless (without a keyboard and monitor) so I can't just run raspi-config and enable ssh.
To enable ssh, loopback-mount the image on your Linux box, and put a file named "ssh" in the /boot directory on the VFAT partition. This enables it for the next boot only, so be sure to immediately enable ssh permanently through raspi-config.

* Hook the Raspberry Pi up to USB power and your ethernet, boot it up and enable ssh through raspi-config.

* Edit /boot/config.txt and add:
dtparam=spi=on
dtoverlay=mcp2515-can0,oscillator=16000000,interrupt=25
dtoverlay=mcp2515-can1,oscillator=16000000,interrupt=24
dtoverlay=spi-bcm2835-overlay

* Bring the interfaces up in /etc/rc.local
ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 500000
ip link set can1 up type can bitrate 500000

* Edit /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf and add the wi-fi info for your network.
See https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/wireless-cli.md
This is so you can ssh into it when it's in your saddlebag and not physically connected to your ethernet.
I also added an entry for the portable hotspot on my Android phone, so I could communicate with it when I was away from my home network.
I use the ConnectBot app to ssh to the Raspberry Pi from the phone.
Note that when you're using the Android portable hotspot, you can use the "arp" command on the phone (or look at /proc/net/arp) to see the IP addresses of attached devices like the Pi, so you know where to ssh.

* Fetch test software
wget http://www.skpang.co.uk/dl/can-test_pi2.zip
Unzip it, set the executable bits, and copy to /usr/local/bin
You probably want to just delete "cansend" for safety's sake.
Actually to say it stronger: DON'T EVER TRANSMIT DATA USING CANSEND

* Install Python 3.x CANBUS module
apt-get install python3-pip
pip3 install python-can

* Connect the PiCAN2 to the CANBUS via screw terminal and an OBD-II cable.
You can get the SparkFun OBD-II to DB-9 Cable p/n CAB-10087 for $10
I just cut the DB-9 off the cable and toned the wires with the DMM continuity function to find pins 6 (red wire) & 14 (yellow wire)

* Throw the Raspberry Pi in a saddlebag, and connect the USB power either to a portable battery, or to a USB converter in the "cigarette lighter" jack.
If you use the bike power jack, then you must ssh to the Raspberry Pi and shut it down gracefully using "poweroff" before turning the bike off, or you can corrupt the SD card.

* Store traffic for analysis by using:
candump -e can0 >dump.txt
You get output like:
  can0  1C0   [8]  20 00 10 07 17 48 72 00
  can0  408   [8]  00 1A 19 01 00 61 00 FF
  can0  080   [0]
  can0  701   [1]  05
  can0  181   [8]  00 00 00 00 FD FF 06 00
  can0  481   [8]  00 00 29 02 00 00 00 00
  can0  501   [8]  00 00 B2 02 93 02 00 74
  can0  381   [8]  18 07 20 00 00 23 07 00
  can0  281   [8]  00 00 00 00 77 00 2F 00
  can0  506   [8]  08 68 42 02 0F 00 FF FF
  can0  506   [8]  09 68 40 02 0F 00 FF FF
  can0  240   [7]  91 0F 00 00 00 00 61
  can0  340   [8]  24 04 00 00 00 00 00 00
  can0  440   [8]  BC E2 01 00 CC 2B 5C 12
  can0  540   [8]  00 00 00 00 67 16 CA 1B
  can0  3C0   [6]  85 55 02 00 00 00
  can0  189   [8]  61 00 42 56 00 02 00 01
Note that everything is in hexidecimal (base 16)
Each line is a "message"
1st column is the interface name.
2nd column is the PID (Parameter ID)
3rd column is the number of data bytes
4th column is data byte #0
5th column is data byte #1
 ...
11th column is data byte #7
I've not seen more than 8 data bytes.

* candump tricks:
Only show messages with PID 0x123:
candump can0,0x123:0x7FF

Only show messages with PID 0x123 or PID 0x456:
candump can0,0x123:0x7FF,0x456:0x7FF

* You can also visually monitor data in real time with cansniffer.

* The command "awk '{ print $2 }' dump.txt | sort | uniq" shows the following PIDs repeat continously:
0x080, 0x181, 0x188, 0x189, 0x1C0, 0x240, 0x281, 0x288, 0x289, 0x2C0, 0x308, 0x309, 0x340, 0x381, 0x388, 0x389, 0x3C0, 0x408, 0x409, 0x440, 0x481, 0x488, 0x489, 0x501, 0x506, 0x508, 0x509, 0x540, 0x701

* The brake switches do not appear to be connected to the CANBUS. Nothing seems to change in candump/cansniffer.

* Note that when you spin the rear wheel, the speed & motor RPM both update on the dashboard.
Speed is probably calculated from RPM using a formula based on the sprocket sizes (belt reduction) and nominal tire circumference.

* I wrote "print_range" to run on the Raspberry Pi from the phone, so I could display the range from CANBUS while I rode, and confirm it matched the dashboard.
That is, I enabled the Android portable wi-fi hotspot, ssh-ed into the Raspberry Pi from the phone, and ran print_range. This continuously prints output, and I could then mount the phone on the bike with the RAM mount and ride down the road.
This is also an example of how to fetch and decode CANBUS data in a Python script.

Known info for each PID:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x080
No data bytes. Some sort of timing/sync?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x240
Current mode == byte 0
0x85 (133) (binary 1000 0101) Sport
0x89 (137) (binary 1000 1001) Eco
0x91 (145) (binary 1001 0001) Custom
I noticed this with cansniffer.

Speed (km/hr) == (byte 2+256*byte 3)/100
Used same procedure as range.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x281
Motor temp (degrees C) == byte 6
Used same procedure as range.
Good thing I realized it's metric, because the C=(F-32)x5/9 crap would have killed me.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x340
Motor revolutions (RPM) == byte 4+256*byte 5
Used same procedure as range.

Error readout on dash == byte 6
0x00 (0)  No faults
0x2C (44) Kill switch on
0x2D (45) Kickstand down
(See manual for complete list)
One transmission for every error, so if there's 2 errors, there will be 2 0x340 frames.
I noticed this with cansniffer.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x440
This is a two-byte "word" value least-significant-byte first, in units of "10 meters"
This tells me the architecture is metric and little-endian, which is valuable information.

range (km) == (byte 4+256*byte 5)/100
range (miles) == (byte 4+256*byte 5)/160.9

The procedure I used to decode it:
1. I filmed the dashboard range display with my phone on several rides. I also ran candump.
2. I pulled an image every second from the videos: ffmpeg -i input.mp4 -vf fps=1 out%05d.png
3. I reduced this by hand to a text file with the range and the frame it changed using geeqie and emacs. As you can imagine, this was a lot of work, dealing with over 1200 frames on one ride.
   78.2,1
   78.3,46
   78.2,56
   78.1,61
   78.2,66
   78.4,71
   78.5,81
   78.7,86
    ...
4. I imported this into a spreadsheet and charted it.
5. I wrote a Python script (gen_graphs) to graph all the single and both double-byte representations of every possible slice of the data for each PID from the candump output.
6. I compared the chart with all of the generated graphs until I found one where the shape matched.
7. I experimented until I realized the unit was metric to make the numbers match. This took a while because my original data was in miles. When I divided it by 161 and it matched, I was wondering why the weird constant, then I remembered that there's 1,609 meters in a mile and figured out it was metric.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x508
bytes 0-2, LSB first.
Some sort of up-counter incremented every second.
Total time running? (Hobbs meter?)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x509
bytes 0-2, LSB first.
Some sort of up-counter incremented every second.
Total time running? (Hobbs meter?)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0x701
Always one data byte of 0x05. Some sort of timing/sync?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There is different traffic when the bike is charging, but I didn't look at that much.

I have the Android range app written and working, except it needs me to type in the range number. Next up is getting that data via Bluetooth from the Raspberry Pi, so I have to figure out the Python Bluetooth libraries and the Android Bluetooth environment. That is not going to be fun.

I also want to mount the Raspberry Pi filesystems read-only to avoid SD card corruption at power-off. Other people have done this.

I considered switching to an Arduino, as an Arduino is a heck of a lot smaller than a Raspberry Pi, and it can live on straight +12VDC.

However, I'd need to code in C, which would suck, and there's confusion about what Bluetooth and CANBUS "shields" are compatible with which flavor of Arduino. Maybe some day when I get bored again.

Well, I hope this is interesting and/or useful to somebody out there. Enjoy.