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[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Zero’s website doesn’t list it but all 2017+ models have a chain kit option. Check with a dealer’s parts lookup.

That's nice to know since both of my ebikes are 2017.

Do these chains have a master link? Are there any disadvantages to the chain?  I need to decide if I should make the change to the chain before I buy spare belts.

-Don-   Auburn, CA

I haven’t used a chain on a Zero, but typically it’s described as being louder.

I’m used to chains on my gas motorbikes, so I assume it has a master link and needs regular lubrication, and is more expensive to replace when it finally goes.

I guess the motor might get dirty oil flung on it over time, so it’s potentially a little more involved to clean.

I’ll let others comment with more direct experience.

[Richard230]

Zero’s website doesn’t list it but all 2017+ models have a chain kit option. Check with a dealer’s parts lookup.

That's nice to know since both of my ebikes are 2017.

Do these chains have a master link? Are there any disadvantages to the chain?  I need to decide if I should make the change to the chain before I buy spare belts.

-Don-   Auburn, CA

I haven’t used a chain on a Zero, but typically it’s described as being louder.

I’m used to chains on my gas motorbikes, so I assume it has a master link and needs regular lubrication, and is more expensive to replace when it finally goes.

I guess the motor might get dirty oil flung on it over time, so it’s potentially a little more involved to clean.

I’ll let others comment with more direct experience.

It has been years since I have seen a old-school master link on an O-ring chain.  Now they all come with a press-on "master link" that requires a special tool to press on the link with its 4 rubber O-rings and to rivet the ends of the chain pins after the link is pressed on to the chain. Not something easily done by the side of the road. 

One the other hand, chains last a lot longer than they used to, almost never break and usually give ample warning when they start to wear out.  However, they certainly are a lot heavier than a belt, require more maintenance, are really messy and are noisy when being rotated with out the sound of an ICE covering up the noise.

And most O-ring chains cost more than a replacement belt for a Zero.  However, that is not the case with BMW drive belts, though.  You really get soaked when buying one of those. 

[DonTom]

Thanks for the info. I think I will stick with the belt and carry a spare.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[SebfromBE]

Hi all,

Slightly off topic, but still a belt question!

I am driving a Zero S 2017. 4400km. My belt snapped although I was (and I am only) driving on standard road, no bumps whatsoever.

Did this happen to anybody? I find it very early...

 Asked my dealer if this could go on warranty but it seems Zero's reply is no. They offered 30% off a new belt. which leads to a 170Eur price tag (including mounting by the mechanic), which is not particularly cheap. I also proposed to do it myself but the guy mentioned you need precise alignment to avoid damage to the motor etc... So I went with their mechanics. Good thing is they have it in stock, so repair the next day it snapped.

But does anybody has a "manual" for putting a belt on my own, with the attention points or alignment procedure?

The point if it can just snap randomly even with low mileage and mild driving, I can only think about getting a few belts at home and be ready to change myself!

Thanks already for any feedback!

[dennis-NL]

Hhmm, you can do it yourself, the alignment isn't that hard.
Turn the wheel a few times with your hand and if it stays about 1-2mm of the edge it's good.
The tension of the belt is also not that hard (common sense or you can use a tool).
See the unofficial Zero manual for it online.

But it's really early, yes. Mine got 34000km on normal road and some minor offroading trough forest sand roads.

[togo]

> Thanks for the info. I think I will stick with the belt and carry a spare.

I broke a belt and changed it yesterday.

In addition to the belt, carry a 10mm allen wrench (gotta detach fork to fit belt through)

And tools for tension adjustment (27mm wrench or socket to loosen axle and 13mm open ends for the actual tension bolt and locknut, and tension measurer)

[Shadow]

...I am driving a Zero S 2017. 4400km. My belt snapped although I was (and I am only) driving on standard road, no bumps whatsoever...

Belt tension increases through initial wear-in. Temperature changes can also affect tension. I think it is not unusual if you never adjusted the tension and alignment that a new belt could see extra stresses.

[Richard230]

...I am driving a Zero S 2017. 4400km. My belt snapped although I was (and I am only) driving on standard road, no bumps whatsoever...

Belt tension increases through initial wear-in. Temperature changes can also affect tension. I think it is not unusual if you never adjusted the tension and alignment that a new belt could see extra stresses.

I have been checking the belt tension since I bought my 2018 S and I haven't noticed any change in the belt tension so far. Even the rubber dust on the rear wheel has just about disappeared now. That is a big improvement over the thinner belt used on my 2014 model, which never stopped shedding rubber dust.

[Shadow]

Was not 2017 S the same belt as 2016? ZeroManual says the 2017 S has same belt as 2016 S(R)/DS(R)

[Richard230]

Was not 2017 S the same belt as 2016? ZeroManual says the 2017 S has same belt as 2016 S(R)/DS(R)

I thought Zero transitioned to the wider belt in 2017.   

[ESokoloff]

Was not 2017 S the same belt as 2016? ZeroManual says the 2017 S has same belt as 2016 S(R)/DS(R)

I thought Zero transitioned to the wider belt in 2017.   

They did.

[ESokoloff]

...I am driving a Zero S 2017. 4400km. My belt snapped although I was (and I am only) driving on standard road, no bumps whatsoever...

Belt tension increases through initial wear-in. Temperature changes can also affect tension. I think it is not unusual if you never adjusted the tension and alignment that a new belt could see extra stresses.

That's counter intuitive but I believe it's true. 
I can't remember the science behind it tho.

[ESokoloff]

Hhmm, you can do it yourself, the alignment isn't that hard.
Turn the wheel a few times with your hand and if it stays about 1-2mm of the edge it's good.
......

Here are my notes on the procedure.
NOTE this on a 2016 (DSR) & setup for my availability of tools.
These notes are helpful to me but know that I'm a rookie on this type of belt & Im not  guaranteeing I've got it a100% right.
However I do have lots of experience with V-belts. 


(20/30kg tension) (8-30-18 Modified tension as was previously incorrect@20-40kg)

Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right.
Best to get the belt in the correct position (left/right) then adjust tension.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side biases as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.     
Must use rolling head prybar to pry the right side towards its jack-screw (or just Smack the tire/rim in the desired direction/towards the jack screw) *
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw appears to cause a 10KG difference to tension.
Use 1-1/16" box wrench (or socket) to tension axle nut to 102NM (75#/')


Also recommend removing the jack bolts & grinding off the top to smooth them out so the embossed markings don't dig into the soft aluminum swing arm.
Wish the bolts were fine thread for finer adjustment. 

*In my opinion, the right jackbolt should draw the right side of the axle towards the front & because it doesn't, it has to be forced via other means.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Relevant wiki links, in order of decreasing frequency:
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Belt_Tension_Check
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Belt_Adjustment
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Belt_Replacement_Procedure

And I made a stub page for the install using Greg Hassler's recently-uploaded video:
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Chain_Kit_Install

[DonTom]

> Thanks for the info. I think I will stick with the belt and carry a spare.

I broke a belt and changed it yesterday.

In addition to the belt, carry a 10mm allen wrench (gotta detach fork to fit belt through)

And tools for tension adjustment (27mm wrench or socket to loosen axle and 13mm open ends for the actual tension bolt and locknut, and tension measurer)

Thanks, I do have all that stuff and I will take it with me from now on. But I still first have to go buy the belts, which I will do next week when I am in Elk Grove.

-Don-  Auburn, CA