ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Thanks a lot...
70Nm seems plausible for a M10/10.9 screw. But that torque is very high for an HX6 allan key. Not sure if my PROXXON tool can handle that. So, first I will order a HAZET 986SLG-6. (But always better to damage the tool, as damaging the screw :-))

I think Loctite arround the shaft makes only sense with the "keyed" version of the pulley. It have the pulley with the "teeth" arround the shaft, from 2017 on. Hopefully without Loctite. If so, it would make no sense for me.

Think a "impact screwdriver" is also not a good option cause of the encoder magnet,- rotor magnets, right?

Will see...

The pulley with the teeth (splined shaft) is glued on , it will require fire application along with a gear or bearing pulling tool to remove without damaging the motor.

Are you able to share a photo of the damage to the motor pulley?

-ryan

It really depends on how much power / torque you are talking about, and what kind of traction control system will be implemented.  If you aren't pushing the limits of traction in most conditions issuing equal torque commands to front and rear motors is probably going to work out just fine.  Where you get into trouble is when you are climbing a steep hill (which gives the rear wheel much better traction) and are turning a corner where you need the front wheel to set your course,  if you apply too much torque to the front wheel and it starts slipping just to maintain straight travel, you will have very little control to initiate a turn and could lose balance.  If you are just making a utilitarian vehicle where you want to get the best traction in all cases and maybe the front spins and looses traction sometimes, but isn't that big of deal because you are going slow enough that you just put your feet down to prevent a fall,  like the Ubco 2X2 , you can probably just give equal torque commands to the front and rear and hope for the best.

-ryan

Quote from: Crissa on March 29, 2021, 12:02:38 PM

Because a 14-50 only does 50a.

Only?  What vehicle has an AC charger of more than 12,000 watts (240VAC times 50 amps=12,000 watts)? But perhaps there is a Tesla 14 KW out there as 14KW destination charge stations do exist.

That is what makes J-1772 so stupid, IMO. Unnecessary limitations, IMO. Most of them are probably fed using a 50 amp (or more) source.

Yeah, they need the pilot because of the limitations of it that would NOT be there if the J-1772 didn't exist at all and we could simply get to what is feeding it.

IOW, tell the J-1772 that your 12 KW vehicle AC charger  can only accept  6.6 KW because the J-1772  is only capable of 6.6 KW. But if the J-1772 didn't  exist you could then get the full 12KW. That's what makes J1772 so stupid, IMO.

Notice Tesla Destination did NOT go that stupid route and they have  14KW AC stations all over. The nice thing is that even our Zeros can use them with an adapter. None of that needing two charge stations BS. Doesn't  matter what Telsa or non-Tesla is using it, get up to 14KW, at least with some. And that is fine even with your bike. It will only draw what your bikes AC charger  is capable of. No need to tell a 14-50R (or whatever)  anything.

BTW, I am not sure if any Teslas have a 14KW AC charger. I have not yet heard of such, but I do wonder why some of the Tesla Destination stations  are 14KW of AC capable.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Don, I agree that replacing  J1772 stations with NEMA 14-50 plugs would be good for some people.  The problem is that like Carissa indicated using J1772 makes things more compatible.  A lot of the J1772 stations aren't capable of 50A, I would say most of them aren't, so that basically ends the conversation about replacing J1772 stations with 14-50 plugs.   Requiring that every charging station has 50A capability, and access to reset the breaker if it trips, is cost prohibitive. A lot of places have shared stations, so if only one charger is being used, you get 32A,  if the other station nearby starts getting used, your current will drop to 16A, and the other station will use 16A too.  You can't do that without some sort of communication, and for better or worse, the industry has determined that J1772 is the standard. 

-ryan

As far as traveling and providing your own energy, it is possible to do on a motorcycle, you just need to consider average power consumption, and power production.  Typically an electric motorcycle is about 100Wh/mile, so you go about 10miles per kWh, if you travel around 45-55mph.  or 10kWh will get you about 100miles.  If you have good sun and a 1kW solar array (I think that would be a reasonable size to be able to store and transport in a motorcycle trailer) you might be able to travel 100miles every couple days.  I think a 1kW wind turbine would probably be too awkward to transport, but also I think wind is even less predictable than sun, and in some places you simply wouldn't have wind to charge.

If you are interested in "travel on solar power" check out these adventurers:
https://www.routedelsol.com/
their youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEqGj33c8pwpcjiT093W-5A/featured

Watching through their content you will learn a lot about what it takes to travel on solar power.  I think the number one take away I got is don't plan too far ahead because most likely nothing will go to plan, and just enjoy the journey, because the journey is going to take a long time.
-ryan

motorcycles are light, so the total amount of energy to move the bike up the hill is typically insignificant.  If the destination is 1000m (3300ft) higher than the starting point, that is  300*9.8*1000 = 2.94MJ of energy (about 0.8kWh) assuming total bike+rider weight is 300kg (660lbs)  Assuming 85% efficiency of converting battery energy to potential gravitational energy, that would use about 0.94kWh of battery to lift the bike up that evlevation change, so it takes such a large hill to become significant. 

Assuming going down the hill to the beach you "recover" potential energy at 100% efficiency, the difference of battery usage to get down the hill vs going up the hill would be about 1.75kWh. So if you make it to the bottom of the hill with 1.75kWh left in your battery, and you charge up to full while you are there, you should be able to make it back traveling at the same speed.  If you have less than 1.75kWh when you get to the bottom of the hill, you will want to travel up the hill more slowly than you came down, to spend less energy moving the air around you.

Again, that assumes a 1km (3300 foot elevation change). Also note this calculation assumes the elevation at the start and the end of the trip,  any increase / decrease in elevation between those two points roughly balances out and doesn't influence energy consumed that much (as long as you have enough energy to make it to the top of the highest point between the start and end).

Another thing to consider is prevailing winds and air temperature, which will both affect aerodynamics.  I believe typically, winds blow off the ocean, so you may have a prevailing tail wind going up the hill, since the bottom of the hill is a beach.  A 7-10kph wind can have significant impact on your range, especially if it is against you going one way, and with you going the other.  Also air temperature has a significant impact on range,  a study I read about bicycle racing and the effect of temperature on aerodynamics suggest that for every 10C temperature increase, the aerodynamic drag decreases by 3%.  And depending on your speed, the most significant influence is your riding position.  If you need to extend your range by 10-15% you can simply tuck to reduce your total cross section area,  the faster you go the more tucking will affect your range.

If you want an adventure, go for it, do some math to prepare yourself to adjust your riding style if you find it necessary, and have a backup plan should things not work out the way you hoped. Without adventure life is boring.

-ryan

The range information in the video is different than what they wrote in the article. In the video they indicated they the SR/F went a few miles farther then the Livewire, and the way they spliced the footage together indicates that too. Either way, I would consider a single test with different riders on the same road that ended withing a few miles difference between bikes inconclusive or approximately the same, since riding gear, riding style, body position , or even tire pressure could cause more than a couple miles of difference in range to either bike.

Also I wouldn't read to far into the nervous feel, suspension issues or other rideability opinions. These are riders who nitpick bikes for their living, they are comparing two well refined bikes, and pointing out subtle differences with bikes as they came from the factory, i.e no suspension setting adjustments. If small differences in handling are a really big issue to you, you will need to test ride the bikes yourself, however I suspect the difference in suspension feel and handling feel when riding near the limits of the bikes will have much less impact on people's decision when purchasing one of these bikes, compared to appearance, seating position, charging options, and available accessories, and dealer location.

And I am still waiting for one of these comparisons to include a bike from Energica, it is like they can't find a third person willing to ride an electric bike for a day 😉


-ryan

Not gonna hurt anything to try. Set up a power supply for the nominal pack voltage (or as high as the power supply can go -- even 40VDC or so might be enough to get it off the floor), but set the current limit very low, say no more than 100mA. Unless I miss my guess, you should be able to charge very slowly through the equalization resistor string, until the circuitry comes alive and can start managing things. At that point, the regular charger should be able to take over.

You might want to charge very gently at first, charging slowly and maybe even stopping for a while every time the pack voltage rises 10 volts or so. A monolith that's at 12VDC is obviously very depleted, if it's even functional any more, and very gentle revival might be the best thing for it.

I can think of a number of things that could get hurt by following that advice.  If you are very certain that the battery total voltage is below 70V (actually if you know that any cell went below 2.5V resting voltage which can happen at any total battery voltage in an un-balanced battery) that battery (or cells if you can safely remove just the cells from the battery) should be properly recycled, no question.  If it is used for anything, it will not only not work well, it could suffer a sudden and serious failure.  The usefulness of an  Li-Ion NCM cell that has sat at below 3.0V for any period of time is questionable, to try and use something that sat at below 2.5V is foolish.

-ryan