ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older => Topic started by: WindRider on February 05, 2013, 09:53:02 AM
-
Just took delivery of a leftover 2012 Zero DS last week. Still awfully cold and wintery here in Idaho but it broke up into the high 30s last week and I took the new bike for a spin. I am very happy with the new ride and looking forward to warmer weather and the chance to ride more.
I did roll through a few mud puddles and found that the front wheel happily spits mud right into the AC connector on the charger. Kind of a funny place to put that charge port for a Dual Sport machine that runs in the dirt, sand and mud?
What are you Zero Riders using to keep the AC inlet connection protected from mud, sand, water? I was thinking of just cutting off a power cord and plugging the dead plug in there.
-
I was thinking of just cutting off a power cord and plugging the dead plug in there
Exactly what I did (and it worked well), before I used an IP67 sealed connector located between seat and tank.
-
When I complained about keeping the charger contacts clean last year, a fellow at Zero sent me a cut-off power plug in the mail. It works fine, but for nasty conditions, covering both open ports with some clear plastic package wrapping tape works even better. After I get home, I just peel it off. I don't know if this affects battery cooling in any way, but just in case, I ride without it when the road is dry.
-
I recently cut the end off a power cable for use as a plug. It's worked pretty well for the last few hundred miles including some heavy rain days.
I doubt blocking those openings affects battery heating, but it's probably best to leave them clear for the charger.
BSDThw: can you describe your connector setting or what sealed connector you use? I'd love to get a cleaner setup.
-
The plug is "Hirschmann / Belden"
http://www.e-catalog.beldensolutions.com/link/57078-24228-256281-256284-24359-24360-36074/de/conf/0 (http://www.e-catalog.beldensolutions.com/link/57078-24228-256281-256284-24359-24360-36074/de/conf/0)
The Standard socket is fixed with a clamp which I removed, so the socket is "free".
I plugged in a standard charger cable and taped the hole thing. I use a special tape that is like gummy and "melt together" if you tear/wrap it.
The cable goes between the battery-box bottom and the charger backwards. At the end of the battery-box up next to the motor encoder cables under the seat.
I made a fixing bracket between the gap of the tank and the seat.
I use this configuration because I have 2 charger in my GIVI E21 hard cases and I can connect the AC line to the chargers so it will not stick out to my leg when riding the bike.
-
Thanks everyone for the advice and nice job on the install BSDthw... that looks like it should have come from the factory!
-
At the suggestion by someone else on this board (sorry, I can't remember who) I moved mine to where it is easy to reach and plug in (even in the dark) and I never get any dirt or mud in it. I used the original bracket and put a slightly longer 5mm bolt in the location at the corner of the battery box. To keep it from loosening the bolt and rotating when plugging and unplugging I put a dab of JB Weld between the clamp bracket and the battery box.
See photo.
Trikester
-
I was the one that moved the charge port up to the top of the battery. I purchased the
relocation kit from Harlan. Works great.
-
Add me to the list of "cut off power cord plug". I just use it when there is water and it has worked well so far. Am thinking this may be another reason to give Harlan my money...
-
I purchased the offical plug from ZMC for $4.99, it fits like a glove and is part number 45-04864... Good luck :)
-
I was the one that moved the charge port up to the top of the battery. I purchased the
relocation kit from Harlan. Works great.
Thanks sgmdudley! I apologize for forgetting who posted that idea, it was a good one. I did find that just having a lock washer under the bracket wasn't enough to keep it from eventually moving when I was plugging in or unplugging. A dab of JB Weld under the bracket did the trick. If I ever have to remove it, the JB Weld would be easy to crack once the bolt is removed.
I got the word from Zero that the 2013 FX has it now located on the top corner of the battery but the opposite corner from where we put it. I don't know if that goes for the other 2013 models or not.
Trikester
-
I got the word from Zero that the 2013 FX has it now located on the top corner of the battery but the opposite corner from where we put it. I don't know if that goes for the other 2013 models or not.
Trikester
The S and DS have the outlet located just above where your left ankle will be while riding. I believe the others all have it at the location you specified.
-
I guess this are the charge ports
-
Thanks everyone for the pics. The relocation to the top of the battery box looks like the best route and it looks like Zero addressed this on the 2013 models.
Glad that I found this forum! Lots of great information here.
-
I got the kit from Harlan as well, but decided to mount it up top, facing up. With some careful plastic scalpel work, I didn't need to take any parts off the bike to install it; hence the installation slot. Easy to plug in, I'm even thinking of cutting a hole in my bag and insert the plug end. Then I would never disconnect the cable from the bike, it's weather protected and I just leave the cable in the bag until it's time to plug into the wall.
(Bonus: Also attached is my timer box for showing how much my "fuel" cost today) ;)
-
Could you not have got a panel mount IEC socket? It would have looked much better, don't know how much space there is under the plastic though.
-
Yes, certainly could have been cleaner with an IEC socket. My goal was not taking anything apart on the bike.
-
So you decided to go at it with a jigsaw blade instead of taking out a few allen screws? I don't get it.
-
Guys, I'm approaching the from a different angle. I salvaged a retractable 4m power cable from a vaccum cleaner and am in the process of making it fit. Ill wire it to the charger outlet socket and tape that connection together, although did consider hardwiring into the charger. Decided against that in case I want to revert to std. My aim is to fit a normal fuel tank cap on the side panel, which will flip open and I can simply reel out as much cable as I need and plug directly in to a power point.
-
I salvaged a retractable 4m power cable from a vacuum cleaner ...
It's a cool idea, hope there is enough space.
Please send photos, if it works.
-
Hey that gives me an idea. When I convert my gas powered trike to Zero electric drive (see thread under 2013 forum) I could modify the former gas tank to hold the charging cord. I'll definitely consider that option. Thanks!
Trikester
-
Is there a big problem with leaving it uncovered? Obviously if one is riding in serious mud it might be hard to clean after, but have there been any issues with water getting in? I just leave it, rain or shine, and have blown dust out of it a couple of times (and I drive a lot of gravel roads and occasionally in the rain). But I don't want to mess up my bike!
-
I've had no problems with an uncovered charger inlet after 7000 miles and almost a year of street riding.
I've started using a plug to cover the inlet to make charging after wet riding a little easier. I used to just let the bike drip dry then plug in, but an inlet plug works much better.
-
The '13s have a rubber cover. Maybe you could order the rubber cover from zero and use it on your bikes.
-
I actually find it tricky to get the plug in now due to the build up of crud in the socket and cant seem to get it clean. The plug is probably full of dirt too. Would recommend using the cut off plug thing unless you only ride on sunny summer days in California like the designers obviously did!
-
Thanks for posting that pic amahoser. I will have to see if the local dealer can get those for a reasonable price but I am going to relocate the port from the bottom of the bike here when I have a chance to dig into that. I just ride through too much mud in the Spring months and it is inconvenient to always climb under the bike to plug it in.
-
I use a 2' cord that converts to a standard plug so I can use any extension cord. I leave the 2' adaptor plugged in and have the female end wire tied to the left frame tube behind the fake radiator shrouds. I got the part off ebay for less than 10 bucks here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310248616955?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/310248616955?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
-
I use one of those adapters too at home, because the cord that comes with the bike isn't long enough to reach my preferred outlet. Plus I don't have to take the factory cord out of the frame cylinder all the time :)
And I'll report that my cut-off computer plug hack that I use to seal the charge port worked like a charm the other day when I went trail riding. The whole lower front of the bike behind the front wheel was covered with mud/clay, but I pulled that plug out when I got home and the port was clean. Not as cool as moving the charge port somewhere more sane, but cheap and it worked.
-
I'll have to get either the official plug or Harlan's kit soon. Though the cut-off power cord seems to work fine. :) the hubby added a silicone grip made out of Sugru (pic attached)
-
Hmm...that Sugru looks rather useful :)
-
Guys, I'm approaching the from a different angle. I salvaged a retractable 4m power cable from a vaccum cleaner and am in the process of making it fit.
Any news on the vacuum-cleaner-cord-rollcage conversion? I would love that :)
-
Here is the French solution for a cord reel Zero DS... this is pretty entertaining:
De ParÃs a Marsella en una Zero DS ZF9 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSTnyMGdF0k#ws)