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Has anyone already broken or changed the belt on a DSR/X?

Given that the power delivered from the motor is about the same as for the SR/F, I would have expected that the positive changes (22/90t vs. 20/90t SR/F/S and 25 width vs. 20 mm) would mean more distance between replacements, but no, we still read the same 24K mi (37K km) interval in the user's manual.

I have 47'000 mi on my SR/F, never broke a belt, kept the previous two, and they still look like fresh out the Gates factory. Is this just pure luck? Since I will be riding on gravel and dirt roads only as my last options, I am pretty sure the belt should last me well over 35'000 mi.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the reply. Yes my Eva does have a 315mA glass fuse. In this case they had taped it into the wiring harness close to the main fuse block. The fuse tests OK with a multimeter. I've tested the voltage between the "engine block" and each side of the fuse holder but get 0V.

I've had a feel of the other taped-up wiring around where you pictured and can't find another fuse holder in there.

Thanks for replying, though, as I'd already seen another "won't turn on" thread where that fuse was to blame.

I'm at a loss for what to try now.

Hi there,

Can I ask for advice please...

My Eva Ribelle has been stored in my garage since last ridden 9 months ago. It was plugged in to the charger and (I believe) in LPR mode throughout.

I came to ride it again this week now we have some good weather. It will not turn on. It has keyless start and I've tried with the main key (after replacing the battery) and green key. There is NO red blinking light on dashboard.

I've tested voltage at fuse 7 (keyless ignition) and get 0V. The little glass fuse is intact and I get 0V reading there too.

When I re-plug the charger in, it says it is waiting for the EV. Nothing lights up on the bike,

The bike is within battery warranty. The authorised dealer I purchased from (Not Your Average Bikes) is no longer in business.

What can I try next myself?

Thanks

I wonder if that bike also has the very hidden fuse that is not mentioned anywhere.  See my thread here.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Hi there,

Can I ask for advice please...

My Eva Ribelle has been stored in my garage since last ridden 9 months ago. It was plugged in to the charger and (I believe) in LPR mode throughout.

I came to ride it again this week now we have some good weather. It will not turn on. It has keyless start and I've tried with the main key (after replacing the battery) and green key. There is NO red blinking light on dashboard.

I've tested voltage at fuse 7 (keyless ignition) and get 0V. The little glass fuse is intact and I get 0V reading there too.

When I re-plug the charger in, it says it is waiting for the EV. Nothing lights up on the bike,

The bike is within battery warranty. The authorised dealer I purchased from (Not Your Average Bikes) is no longer in business.

What can I try next myself?

Thanks

This PIN issue only affects Energicas with the keyless feature, correct?

@JJ: Good idea, but:
https://www.energicamotor.com/en/warranty:
>>... Otherwise, It can only be activated within the first 12 months from the date of first registration. ...<<

Im in 36th month from registration... 

That page you are citing is referring to the NORMAL policy regarding warranty extension.

I was referring to a (maybe one-time) PROMO running until May 31st!
https://www.energicamotor.com/en/extend-your-ride/

Quote: Enjoy an additional 2 years of coverage for your Energica bike. This exclusive offer is available to all Energica customers who have purchased a motorcycle from our range less than 3 years ago.

So, if you are really interested in that warranty extension, I suppose to call your dealer. As far as I understood, they have to download data from the vehicle and send it to Energiga (until May 31st), so you would have to pay them a visit within the next days.

That's a lot of miles, and a lot per year. How many other parts have you gone through, like belts, brake rotors? You're regularly only using 40-50% of your battery, have you had many times when you've needed to use more or do you think you could have coped with a 7.2 model all this time (although of course having less power as it wouldn't have been an R model)?

Also if you're going off the number of cycles shown in the app then I don't think it means full charge cycles (0-100%), I don't think anyone knows for sure what it means. At most you'd get what, 140 miles to a full charge? So you'd be looking at over 400 cycles for 60k miles.

I only mentioned components that failed as the OP was wondering about reliability, not consumption of expendable consumables.
But to answer your question, yes plenty of tires, belts, pads, & even a rear rotor. 
I should have mentioned that I’ve replaced the swingarm bearings (forgot the miles so guessing at 50k(ish) as they had become notchy.
Oh, I also had the front sprocket replaced as I blew it out attempting to get through a 10” or higher mud flow that I didn’t see (heavy rains in the local mountains heading into work at 0dark:30 one stormy morning)

As far as charge cycle count: it’s my understanding that it’s the amount of times the charger has been able (in my case enabled via timer) to obtain 100% or very near it.
As I limit my typical SOC I’ve only charged this battery to full (or close to it) only 12 times in 3 years/33k(+-)  miles.

In theory a 7.2 battery may have been able to get away with that size but at the time I purchased (used) 6.5 was the smaller battery & that provided wouldn’t work & would wear out much sooner having to use practical all the capacity every day. 
Besides, I justified the elevated cost (compared to ICE) by being able to charge at work for the lions share of my needs (that strategy changed when the original battery wore out).

Thank you for your inputs @Demoni.
Yah the foot, I already have it as in as I can, always 'remember' to pull it back in turn 8 when it scrapes  but even plastered to the bike still occasionally drag it.  Now that my speeds are faster, I am approaching that turn a bit different (actually let's be honest, and say more correctly) so unless I miss the setup on 7, should be able to get that one with a lot less lean angle needed and circling the drain on it so badly, Ill be starting my apex touch more centered instead of rimming it.  Ill try adjusting peg position however riding the bike higher is pretty much out of the question, im barely touching the ground at idle as it is now, that is NOT really a good  option at this point unfortunately.  Ideally at stop I like to be flatfooted with the bike, not on the balls of my feet like I currently am.  Just a little uneven ground and things can get challenging keeping the bike up.

Using the arms, with hard regen, it's kind of a given, the regen takes the place of braking.  A few of the experts have made that comment, wow you are shifting your body weight really hard, which my reply is, whether you are using regen or brakes, it's the same thing, ..YES it IS a different way of riding, and you are used to braking, I learned using Regen Braking, but once you DO learn how to use it, you learn how to feather it, JUST like you'd do with your brakes, you don't grab a handfull of brakes, you gently ease in and off it, need to learn the same with the throttle, a little to slow a little or maintain your current speed or a lot to slow faster,  way off to basically apply your full rear brake, almost fully.  Ive discussed this a bit with Stefano and can understand now why he prefers braking over regen, that's the way he learned, and how he rides his other bikes, it's one less thing to have to learn and eventually master.  He's good at it the old fashioned way, so why reinvent that?  Me now, Ive basically taught myself to ride with the regen, so lets see if I can master it.  Don't get me wrong, I do know how to apply the brake properly and am getting a lot better at being gentle with it, especially with those sensitive monsters!, but regen is just one less hand movement / input to have to manage IMO.  Gloves occasionally can get in the way of braking if they are not perfectly on your hands.

Ill re check the rule on selfie sticks. I KNOW your camera has to be hard tethered, will check on the stick, I think a stick in back aiming forward would show you everything you really need to see TBH.  Id really love to see my real lean, to ME it feels like Im way off the seat, leaning way over, but I bet it's not, and it's not like you can just look down and check when you are that leaned over, that'd probably end up a bad day for you heh.

Aaron

I had my 2016 DSR for 3 years and never had a problem, traded it for my 2020 SR/F (purchased in 2019).   The only problem with the SR/F (big one) was a battery replacement last year, but that has turned out well so far (new battery has been great so far).

Steve

I find that when I don't have my key, when you get the first key not in range message upon startup, release the button and then  hold it in again until it recycles and then it should give you the pin entry screen.  Sometimes it'll lock up for a bit and just hold the button in for 20 seconds or so (pain in the ass really is) and it'll recycle and should give you the pin screen.

Hopefully in a later update they fix this so that if key is not in range it pulls up this menu first thing, without having to retry or play button games, because it never fails that all of the sudden it starts pouring and here my nappy ass is, stuck in the downpour trying to get the bike into the garage without the damned key which is inside and up in my bedroom or somewhere NOT easily grabbable 

Aaron