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After Zero consulted remotely with the shop at Gold Coast, everyone agreed that the battery voltage was so low that it was not recoverable.  Definitely bummed to have lost it and from a preventable error, but we worried about different things in NYC in March.  I was happy to find someone here who has the resources and interest to see what can be made of it. TEV will have to tell the rest of the story. This has been a great community for the length of the 8 years I've been riding Zero!

It might be the BMS. Any decent battery lab should be able to bring back.  2-3 months should not kill a good battery.  Not all batteries are "good".

I would love if this was the solution and would be worth paying for the help. How does one find a "decent battery lab"?  Any tips appreciated

Just wow.  That is really the only thing that kills the battery.

Did you buy the battery or was it swapped from the recall?  I'd ship it to Zero and see what they can do or a competent dealer.  But I guess you have more money than gumption.

For those reading, if you can't charge then don't ride.

The new battery was installed by Zero as part of the recall.  I'm not sure how my gumption would measure up to your standards, but too much money is definitely not my problem. It seems pretty risky to pay to have it shipped cross country to confirm that the battery is a loss. If so, I don't think I'd choose to buy a new one for the 7 year old bike.  Happy to take any helpful advice on being cool enough to charge so that I can keep riding.

In March I had just moved and hadn't figured out how to get my 2013 S plugged in. I commuted for 10 days and had gotten down to about 20% charge. Then COVID came and we left NYC for what I thought was a week but ended up being 2 months. When I came back, and got it plugged in, the bike was unresponsive. I think I killed the battery by letting it sit with low charge and not plugged in for 2+ months. Tragically, I had just gotten a brand new 14.4 battery a few months prior. 

It's currently at the closest open dealership: Gold Coast Motorsports in New Hyde Park, NY. They've had no luck getting it to charge, and have concluded that it's totaled. I don't have much faith in their diagnostic skills and I think Zero has trouble helping remotely when the bike won't turn on at all.

The dealer has given up and suggests they I have it towed to a junk yard. That seems like a shame, but I also don't want to pay to tow it back to Brooklyn since I have no plan on what to do next.  If you can make use of it for parts or want to see if you can resurrect it, it's yours for free. you'd just need to be able to pick it up somehow and probably pretty soon.

I looked out my window this morning and my bike was there in the rain with the headlight on. At first I thought I must have left the keys in it overnight, but the keys were in my pocket.

The headlight, tail light, and dash are stuck in an "on" state even when the ignition is in in the OFF position with keys removed. It got into this state while parked. Nothing abnormal on the last ride, 36 hours earlier.  When I turn it on, the boot up is a little strange, but it gets to a normal state and I've ridden around a bit without any unusual behavior.

Video of the above


I guess I've just got a severe case of "Dash Flicker"?
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Dash_Flicker

Anyone have any ideas on
 - how to keep anything from additional damage
 - how long it will take the headlight to deplete ~5 kWH
 - whether sitting back and hoping it dries out is my best / only option

Just bumping this in case anyone out there knows the MBB login passwords and might share them with me privately.

I have MBB access and want to bypass my broken kickstand sensor and ride to the shop to get a new one instead of paying for a $250 tow to replace a $30 part.

I'm in!  I had at least two problems

1. I bought a 3.3v serial cable by accident. After asking an EE at work for tips, and confirming that the DIY instructions say to use 5V, I bought this 5v cable.

2. CoolTerm for Mac wasn't working. I think it didn't have drivers for the USB serial cable, so I was selecting the most reasonable sounding "device" which was SOC and that is not the correct thing. I had already used up the 7 day free trial of Serial for Mac in an earlier phase of this process, so I ponied up the $30 and it immediately showed "USB UART" as the device.

After that it was easy, I was right in. I was able to confirm that my kickstand switch is bad (indicates 'down' no matter where the kickstand is). Woohoo!

Now all I need to do is bypass the kickstand interlock. It seems like I would do that via the 'set' command but I'm guessing you need a login for that? If anyone would be so kind to email (samswift at gmail) or dm me specifics on that, it would be amazing.

ZERO MBB> login
ogin
Login Level: 0

ZERO MBB> set
set

*************************************************************
*                   System Settings Menu                    *
*************************************************************

  model           - Model Name                                   SS
  vin             - VIN Number                   [redacted]
  serial          - Serial Number             2013_mbb_[redacted]
  runtime         - Total Run Time                   00000:18:24:55


definitely not dumb, thanks. the problem is right in that step.  I definitely have hit "return" ... once, twice, 3 times while jumping up and down. I even tried sending CR and LF in hex.

For some reason that exchange in which I hit enter and it responds with a prompt is what's not happening. I'll fiddle with the CR/LF settings to see if I can get one through.

I wonder if I've got the most recent firmware because it just came back from the factory and maybe something is different about how this works?