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Topics - dc5dd

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1
Does anyone know if the 2017 locking tank is compatible with the previous model years?  This will probably be a better question for the Zero reps that cruise this forum.  And also if the lock and start key are the same. 

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / All Stock to LED bulb conversion
« on: January 21, 2015, 07:35:47 AM »
So I did an conversion from stock bulbs to all LED including the headlight except for the license plate which I forgot.  But all the bulbs I brought from ebay and listed below.  I can feel a little better energy consumption on the battery but nothing objective just subjective.  I believe that all the usage counts and LED's are brighter so that is why I converted.

Also I used the brightest bulbs I could find that will fit.  Fit being the key there is a huge amount of configurations on Ebay and not all are the same as far as brightest and quality.  My running light has developed a flicker that is probably a manufacturing defect but still brighter.

Another requirement was to use all stock sizes so that I can convert back to stock bulbs if I wanted to, don't know why I would but just so I can.

Some notes and questions.  I de-soldered the CANBus resistors on the running lights so they don't drain battery power (this was the only way they come).  The LED light is "whiter" and brighter but not as "fill-in", if you can describe it that way.  If you look at the bulb directly you will have a burn in spot for a couple of seconds.  Also in installing the headlight I might have broken or dislodged something but I don't have anything as a comparison. 

The LED headlight requires a heatsink in the rear of the bulb to dissipate heat and what I did was wedged the dust cover of the headlight assembly between the LED bulb and heatsink (they are two parts but attached together).  In doing this I had to use a lot of force to reassemble the two parts after installing onto the headlight assembly and I believed I damaged the headlight assembly because it pivots freely now.  What I mean is that the aiming of the headlight is loose (able to aim up and down freely) I tried turning the adjustment screw on the assembly but that didn't help.  So I'm wondering if this is normal.  I think that the rubber dust cover keeps it stable but there has got to be more to it then that so I'm not sure. 

Below is all the links to the bulbs I used, the headlight for the LED needed a small modification to fit in the assembly.  As mentioned I de-soldered the resistor for the CANBUS, the turn signal needed an LED flasher installed (I believe it is sealed but can't be sure), and the turn signal will fit with a little force to close the lens cover.  If you want the license plate bulb you will have to order a CREE LED with the shortest length to fit in the small space, probably a short T10 bulb.

H4 headlight
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-H4-HB2-9003-6000-K-Lumen-White-CREE-LED-BULBS-HI-LO-Beam-Fit-Head-Light-Kit-/121395980851?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c43c3aa33

Running lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-T10-W5W-8-5050SMD-CANBUS-1-5W-Q5-CREE-LED-White-Wedge-Light-Lamp-Bulb-12V-/351048379414?hash=item51bc1d2c16

Turning lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Light-Bulb-Lamp-1156-BAU15S-12V-13-5050-SMD-LED-Amber-/350971282437?hash=item51b784c405

LED flasher
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-12V-Turn-Signal-Blinker-Indicator-Flasher-Relay-Fix-LED-Hyper-Flash-Black-/361039243420?hash=item540f9da89c

3
Just out of curiosity is it a straight swap from the 2015 12.5kWh battery to the 2014 11.4kWh battery?  Is there programing and firmware updates involved.  Is it possible?  Is the hardware different?  Thanks

4
In addition to the SR motor recall I also brought up the sounds I was hearing when the bike did a hard acceleration.  For me it seems like the bike did this under hard acceleration like hitting the throttle hard going up a hill or on a straight all way.  And I mention that to John.  He told me that the engineers are aware of this and they are looking into it they have observe the sound and believe that it is a mix of the motor and the belt or something else but it does not cause any "problems".  I hope it stays this way just a little annoying but does not cause a physical problem except for the noise I guess :-\

5
When I first rode the SR it didn't have this problem but now the noise is loud and constant and annoying.  I try using a can of compressed air to blow the dust off of the rear brakes and I see a cloud of dust but it comes back.  Also I tried using water to wash the rear brake but it just keep on coming back.  Any advise besides changing the rear brake pads? 

6
The concept is to take a Zero Motorcycle preferably the Zero S 2013 model and add a Hydrogen Fuel Cell from Horizon Fuel Cell and extend the range of the motorcycle. How much is anybody’s guess but I’m thinking that it depends on the fuel cell wattage as well as how much hydrogen you can store on the motorcycle.  Since a fuel cell is not limit like a battery to its charge but by the supply of hydrogen it can theoretically supply the necessary power indefinitely.  But the fuel cell cannot output the high currents needed (unless it is a very large fuel cell) for the motor thus a hybrid of battery/fuel cell is an ideal solution.  I don’t have the motorcycle or the fuel cell yet I just would like an idea of how to proceed so I’m confident that I have the right parts.  Also since the fuel cell and the motorcycle cost a lot I will have to get the setup in pieces.

The initial approach was to add the fuel cell on the motorcycle and charge while it was parked but thinking about it a little I came to the conclusion that that is no different than charging at a wall outlet, so charging on the go should be used, more on that later.

Horizon offers a 1000W and a 3000W that would go well with the motorcycle being light weight fuel cells (11lbs and 45lbs w/o the hydrogen storage, valves and tubing).  The 1000W is a model H1000XP http://www.horizonfuelcell.com/usermanual/h-series/h-1000.pdf#!h-series-10w-5kw/c1cb8 used in SHELL Eco-marathon competition for lightweight and high efficiently, it should output about 100VDC@10A about the same as the on-board charger of the Zero S 2013 model.  The 3000W is a model H3000 “Autopak"http://www.horizonfuelcell.com/usermanual/h-series/h-1000.pdf#!autopak-/cpor used in trial runs on small two door vehicles in UK with the added benefit of nitrogen purging that should extend the lifetime of the fuel cell by 2 to 3 times according to Horizon/Arcola.  Similarly the H3000 should output about 100VDC@30A which would give a higher charge rate but also increase the weight about 35lbs.  Both of these fuel cells come with a DC/DC converter that will output 100VDC regardless of the output of the fuel cells and also about 90% efficient converter. 

Here comes the tinkering/assumptions and suggestions are more than welcome.  As far as I can see the integration of the fuel cells on the on the motorcycle will require mounting of the fuel cell stack and its components on the motorcycle and the electrical interface to the battery pack.  There is also the required 12VDC power supply for the fuel cell controls but I’m assuming that is an easy fix by tapping into the 12VDC source of the motorcycle.

There should be enough room to mount the fuel cell stack in the “gas tank” or maybe further modification is required to fit the fuel cell there.  The hydrogen tank can sit behind the rider on a rack.  I’m planning on using a metal hydride storage tank http://www.hydrogencomponents.com/BL-740.htm that measures about 5 inches in diameter and 8 inches in length about 12lb.  That leaves the two other main components which are the DC/DC converter and the stack controller/command module, hopefully there is enough area around the gas tank to the seat to the battery pack, and this should also be the area to mount the hydrogen tubing and valves.  The fuel cell needs to breath to convert the hydrogen to electricity so a mesh might have to be used in the gas tank area.  These are the places I’m thinking of but suggestions are welcomed. 

The big unknown for me is how to work the output of the fuel cell to battery interface.  According to Horizon/Arcola I can customize the output voltage of the DC/DC converter I think close to 100VDC is what they can do maybe more if you order custom.  What is the charging voltage for the 2013 Zero S?  If the motorcycle is in operation (moving) and the fuel cell is connected will it charge or is there a way to fool the BMS into charging even if it is being used?  I know from the manual and reading on the forum that the motorcycle has safety features and interlocks I need to know and understand these so that maybe there is a way to “keep” them but also charge the battery with the fuel cell while the motorcycle is in operation.  According to the 2013 owner's manual page 6.11 the BMS communicates with the charger to stop charging is this true?  I always thought the BMS just disconnects its main contacts?? 

I believe the beauty of the system (fuel cell and battery) is that it is almost plug and play if you can call it that.  The fuel cell to battery interface is where it gets interesting.

Once again any suggestions/comments are more than welcome.

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