ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

That's a lot of miles, and a lot per year. How many other parts have you gone through, like belts, brake rotors? You're regularly only using 40-50% of your battery, have you had many times when you've needed to use more or do you think you could have coped with a 7.2 model all this time (although of course having less power as it wouldn't have been an R model)?

Also if you're going off the number of cycles shown in the app then I don't think it means full charge cycles (0-100%), I don't think anyone knows for sure what it means. At most you'd get what, 140 miles to a full charge? So you'd be looking at over 400 cycles for 60k miles.

I only mentioned components that failed as the OP was wondering about reliability, not consumption of expendable consumables.
But to answer your question, yes plenty of tires, belts, pads, & even a rear rotor. 
I should have mentioned that I’ve replaced the swingarm bearings (forgot the miles so guessing at 50k(ish) as they had become notchy.
Oh, I also had the front sprocket replaced as I blew it out attempting to get through a 10” or higher mud flow that I didn’t see (heavy rains in the local mountains heading into work at 0dark:30 one stormy morning)

As far as charge cycle count: it’s my understanding that it’s the amount of times the charger has been able (in my case enabled via timer) to obtain 100% or very near it.
As I limit my typical SOC I’ve only charged this battery to full (or close to it) only 12 times in 3 years/33k(+-)  miles.

In theory a 7.2 battery may have been able to get away with that size but at the time I purchased (used) 6.5 was the smaller battery & that provided wouldn’t work & would wear out much sooner having to use practical all the capacity every day. 
Besides, I justified the elevated cost (compared to ICE) by being able to charge at work for the lions share of my needs (that strategy changed when the original battery wore out).

Why not just swap out the stock flasher for a solid state (electronic) type?
You may have to swap the bikes flasher relay socket wires or source the oddball relay as in my case, Zero used an oddball relay pin arrangement. 


See more here…..
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11961.0

When you say that you only charge to 100% when needed do you mean that every time it needs to be charged you let it charge to 100% or that you only charge to 100% when you need full capacity to get to your destination. 
I suspect the former & would suggest to not charge to 100% unless needed. 
I try to maintain 30/70 battery level after the original battery was replaced (warranty) @ nearly 60k miles. 
The replacement battery has over 30k miles & still in good shape.

why not alcohol?  It's waste gasses are not too bad.  The whole CO2 BS needs to go away.  I can get the not wanting hydrocarbons because of the nox and sox but CO2 is a given for even you being alive.

What if they had a barge, a large ocean going one, it had a lower profile, hauled stuff, it's entire deck top was solar panels.  Morning time, it charged up a little bit at night using wave action, to lift an anchor, then used the panels to push a motor on a propeller to drive it towards whichever destination it was heading.  when night came, it dropped anchor to sit where it ended up at, unless the prevailing winds would ultimately push it towards it's end destination even further, at which time it'd just keep drifting naturally..  While sitting it could use wave generators to make electricity by the up and down on the waves to charge a battery.  come next day, do it all over again,  during bad weather / cloudy days, it'd just charge it's battery, you could put wind generators on it too, not stupid tall ones but smaller ones along the deck to gather any wind that might be going too.  Perhaps every 10 miles or so you could have a small platform it could anchor / moor to, like stopping points, or every 50 miles, whatever works, if needed or for emergency docking.   have enough of these on a planned route to put these barges between countries on planned shipping routes.  You could have enough of them running that if it took a few days more to get somewhere, no big deal.  It'd essentially burn zero fuel except what it made on it's own.

when it gets wherever, unload, put new stuff to go back and send it back.  put a few dozen people on it, or even just a few with some rockets to fight off pirates, a keg of beer, some weed, a box of doritos, and you are good to go !  Throw in a fishing pole and they are loyal to the end!  Catch dinner, and perhaps some extra fish to sell when they get back in port, a bit of a trip bonus!

Hell sign me up, Ill be the first one to test pilot the HMS UnicornPhart. 
Aaron

Since we’ve entered the silly zone I’ll propose good old fashion teleportation as a means of future transportation. 

……………

Hydro storage only works because it does the same thing with a BILLION times more weight, and even then, it's incredibly inefficient and only suitable for conserving small amounts in situations where there is massive overproduction.

Green Hydrogen production (via Electrolysis) could take advantage of such over production periods.  This would yield a necessary commodity.

LADWP is planning on producing Hydrogen via Electrolysis from recycled waste water.

https://clkrep.lacity.org/onlinedocs/2022/22-0255_misc_2_5-5-2022.pdf

More recently I have seen the same fault codes come back (0020 & 0028) after riding in heavier rain, but they seem to go away after a time, presumably after drying out. Has anyone else ended up just deciding to live with intermittent fault codes?

My 2016 DSR experienced fault code 20 & 28 as well as red triangle/green LED flashing during rain events  & I finally traced it down to the enabling circuit (ignition equivalent in ICE vehicles) getting wet & allowing a path to ground.
After insulating the defect, I’ve been trouble free for about a year & 7+k miles.

I went ahead & ordered the Ram mount Quick Grip.
The Quadlock looks interesting but I’m not sure I wanted a proprietary case that is an unknown commodity.
This option would be best assessed in person. 

I wasn’t impressed with the Ram X-Grip but the Quick Grip looks to be what I was looking for.

Thx all

A screwed clamp connection is what I would recommend for high amps. 
Crimped is fine for lower amps (less then 7.5a)