ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

It is indeed Energica fault and bad communication with the customer. The ex-dealer was able to show me documentation proving that. Sorry, I can't say more details. But more thumbs down to the main Energica office.

To me it is pretty obvious what has happened there and I have strong doubts it's actually Energicas fault. The CoC is the essential document for a bike, because it effectively proves the ownership and is needed to actually use and register the bike. The CoC will be issued/sent to the dealer as soon as the bike is fully paid. So if the dealer hasn't received the CoC within 7 months, he hasn't paid the bike - it's as simple as that. This is what most likely happened:

-Dealer got approved by Energica and ordered a Demo Bike. He made a small down payment and chose 180 days payment for the rest
-Dealer decided not to pay the bike when the 180 days were due (for whatever reason)
-Dealer decided to sell the bike to you without actually having the necessary documents and knowing it will be useless for you
-Dealer is trying to hide his fraud by telling you stories and trying to make Energica look as the bad guys

What you should do immediately, is to return the bike to your dealer and get your money back. Otherwise ask your dealer if he's able to prove the full payment of the bike - if he's not willing or able to do that, things are obvious.

That sounds like the onboard was charging alone in case you are using it. Might be a defective controller, happens sometimes.

The only option to get real data is to monitor the amount of energy going into your bike while charging (assuming you always start to charge with the same pack voltage for a good comparison). Max. Voltage will not change and SOC will always go to 100%. What you're looking for is the so called SOH - state of health. Some manufacturers do estimate it in their BMS as well as it also monitors the energy flowing into and out of the battery(I think Nissan and Renault do it in their cars). Zeros BMS is also trying to estimate the real pack capacity, but as many of us have experienced already they have their issues with it.

So if you want to track it, get an energy meter, note down the battery voltage and which you start charging, note down the final voltage after charging and note down the amount of energy which has flown into you battery. Do that a lot of times and some day you might see a trend.

About the riding fast on highway.
In my experience it's not battery temp but the motor temp wich is cause of power cutt-off.

At 100°C warning, at 117°C power reduction.

The motor power reduction is because the motor becomes too hot (which would fry the magnets), this is the result of the fact that an electric motor has a continuous and a peak power. Only continuous power can be sustained without the motor starting to overheat. So the Zero reduces the motor current in order to not destroy the motor.

The battery temperature is something entirely different. For maximum power, you want it to be as hot as possible and for maximum lifetime you want it somewhere around 20°C. With powerful riding or charging with a lot of power the battery starts to heat up because of the internal resistance of the cells. At 50°C the BMS will open the contactor in case of charging, at 60°C it will also open to prevent you from driving.

Low SOCs do also cause a power reduction in order to prevent the pack voltage from sagging too low.

Do the math yourself

A MY18 FX battery has a net capacity of around 6,3 kWh. If you divide that by the charging power of around 4 kW, that's 1,575h. Multiplied by 60 min/h, that's 94,5 minutes for a full charge. Usually probably way less, because you never deplete the battery completely.

Just use the onboard charger for charging as well and you're done. That is the most simple and safest way. Alternativly you can connect a dummy plug to the Anderson port with either a 100k resistor or a powerbank. Those methods are described here in the forum already.

Everything else would involve taking wiring harnesses apart, which is something you don't really want to do.

Actually arcing is more a thing of a high current flow in the moment of connection rather then voltage. But the capacitors of the charger will probably fill up faster with higher voltage, so that does result in higher current.

However you can decide where it will arc and chose the component which is easier to replace. That will be the wall connector. So connect to the bike first and then plug the cable into the wall. That way you prevent the arcing from happening in the motorcycle connector.

I have to agree with most of the things said. I have also ridden both Ego and Eva, technically and performance wise they are definitely superior. But they are really lacking a good handling and are way too heavy., that’s why currently I wouldn’t want to swap it with my Zero. But if that’s solved there’s not much to worry about anymore.

DC fast charging is a game changer and there’s no doubt that it’s the future. Currently the availability of DC stations in Germany is still limited compared to AC of up to 22kW, but that’s changing very quickly. Taking a look at the Netherlands, it’s already solved with networks like Fastned.

I’m pretty sure that not too far from now we will see bikes with batteries around 25 kWh and charging capacities of up to 50 kW (at least on low SOC), the Energica already does up to 20 kW. Even with rectifier technologies improving there will be no way to archive such charge rates by carrying a big amount of AC chargers on the bike. It will waste too much space and weight and will produce tons of heat you need to get rid of.

Additionally it doesn’t make any sense from an economic perspective. “Shared” chargers in a charging station will distribute the cost way better than a single person buying all that charging power for using it just 20 times a year. The first Fastned charging stations have actually passed the operational break even.

If you ask me, every day Zero is waiting to switch to a high voltage system is a lost day. There’s no way around it. I hope we don’t have to wait too long.