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[Electric Cowboy]

I will be coming out with a mod for both 2011 and 2012 with the help of Hollywood Electrics soon that you will be able to plug directly into the bike to get some tweaked performance through the ECU/MBB.

I want to test the device on the track first to ensure it is high performance before I release it. I will be keeping everyone updated. If I were to do a kickstarter on this do you think people would support it?

[Richard230]

Now that is what my bike needs - a kickstarter!   

[protomech]

Sign me up : )

[CliC]

Cool, a Power Commander for Zeros

If it'll give me sport performance with eco regen, I'm down.

[CliC]

Now that is what my bike needs - a kickstarter!   

When I went and picked up my bike from the dealer Saturday, he showed ma a toy throttle assembly that generated an "engine rumble" when you twisted the grip. It was some sort of flywheel-driven noise generator, and if it hadn't been teal and pink, I would have been investigating how to install it on my left grip

[Electric Cowboy]

BTW guys lol, while I think a kick starter is a cool idea,

I was actually referring to :
http://www.kickstarter.com/discover/categories/technology?ref=sidebar

[CliC]

Yeah, kickstarter.com is a pretty cool idea. Only problem is the wait. I'm waiting on a couple of things I donated to, in both cases for months. Not unexpected, though; I understand how it works.

On another topic, I got a compliment on the DS from a young man, long-time dirt biker, even before I told him it was electric. "Thing looks like a BEAST", he said. Guess that means I need to go find a dirt track and see what she'll do

[Electric Terry]

Clic, the sport performance with eco regen is one of the mods I did the second day I got the bike.  Seems common sense it should be this way from Zero.  Unplug the two wires from underneath the eco/sport switch.  doesn't matter what position the switch is in, it will now be in sport mode 100% of the time.  I opened up the left handle bar assembly and connected the wires to the horn button which I removed (ive been riding almost every day for 15 years and the horn is only to piss someone off, I never depend on it and so rely on maneuvering out of the way of an idiot instead of thinking a horn might get his attention and not make him panic.  Just my preference.  And while you're in there, clip the high beam headlight wire to the switch.  Now during the day when you want to save 55 watts or 110 watt hours. If riding for 2 hours at 45 mph on a 7.7kwh usable pack and trying to achieve 90 miles. the headlight will steal 1.5 miles from you.  This way you flip it to high beam and it's off during the day (the little light is still on).  At night you flip it down to low beam and it comes on.  When you want high beam you pull the finger trigger.  That simple.

Oh and when you want to slow down now you have 3 levels of regen.  stage one you let the throttle go, two you press the horn button, and three you barely squeeze the brakes.  I'm convinced this adds more regen.  Now when I stop I press the horn button automatically with my thumb unless i want to coast down slowly.

[protomech]

Hum, interesting.

I strongly suspect as well that the foot brake adds a small amount of regen in the initial travel from neutral. I may be able to definitively say shortly..

[Richard230]

Zero's literature says that applying the brakes doubles the regen drag for each power mode. But, try as I can, I just don't feel it when I lightly apply either the front or rear brake or both brakes at the same time.  My GPR-S would activate its regen strongly when you touched either brake enough to light up the brake light.  Maybe Zero's system uses hydraulic pressure to activate a separate switch, other than the brake light, but if it does it must take a lot of pressure on the brake pedal and I have no idea where that switch might be.

[CliC]

It does take a surprising amount of brake pressure to activate the brake light on my DS, more on the rear than the front. The rear brake does indeed do it with a pressure switch; I don't think it does on the front, but I haven't looked closely. Like you, though, I don't feel additional regen when I activate either brake. May have to do some testing to see.

[CliC]

Clic, the sport performance with eco regen is one of the mods I did the second day I got the bike.  Seems common sense it should be this way from Zero.  Unplug the two wires from underneath the eco/sport switch.  doesn't matter what position the switch is in, it will now be in sport mode 100% of the time.  I opened up the left handle bar assembly and connected the wires to the horn button which I removed (ive been riding almost every day for 15 years and the horn is only to piss someone off, I never depend on it and so rely on maneuvering out of the way of an idiot instead of thinking a horn might get his attention and not make him panic.  Just my preference.  And while you're in there, clip the high beam headlight wire to the switch.  Now during the day when you want to save 55 watts or 110 watt hours. If riding for 2 hours at 45 mph on a 7.7kwh usable pack and trying to achieve 90 miles. the headlight will steal 1.5 miles from you.  This way you flip it to high beam and it's off during the day (the little light is still on).  At night you flip it down to low beam and it comes on.  When you want high beam you pull the finger trigger.  That simple.

Oh and when you want to slow down now you have 3 levels of regen.  stage one you let the throttle go, two you press the horn button, and three you barely squeeze the brakes.  I'm convinced this adds more regen.  Now when I stop I press the horn button automatically with my thumb unless i want to coast down slowly.

Interesting ideas here, though I think the horn must work for the bike to pass inspection here in Texas. It could be switched back easily enough, though.

The other mod I'd make is to have the brake light come on when the (eco mode) regen was activated. It's a significant-enough deceleration that I always look behind me to check for cars before I  get ready to slow down or stop with regen only.

[ColoPaul]

Zero's literature says that applying the brakes doubles the regen drag for each power mode. But, try as I can, I just don't feel it when I lightly apply either the front or rear brake or both brakes at the same time.

Call me crazy, but on my bike I can clearly tell.  With the throttle at 0%, all you have to do is lightly tap the brake and the drag noticeably increases and stays increased until the throttle moves off 0%.

[rotoiti]

Call me crazy, but on my bike I can clearly tell.  With the throttle at 0%, all you have to do is lightly tap the brake and the drag noticeably increases and stays increased until the throttle moves off 0%.

My DS drags way more after just touching the front brake lightly. Not sure about the rear brake but I think it works for it, too although it takes more pressure to activate it than the front brake.

[CliC]

Tried this myself tonight, on the ride home, in the empty street in front of my house. When I pulled the front brake just enough to activate the light, I felt some additional deceleration, maybe 1/3 again what I was getting from eco-mode regen when the throttle was closed. At rest, I pulled the brake in the same amount and pushed the bike to try and gauge how much the front brake was actually grabbing; it didn't seem like much, not enough to explain the deceleration.

So yes, I'd have to concede that you get some more regen when the brakes are applied. But it's not huge. Does give me some future modding ideas, though.