ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Now please offer more of a touring moto. My wallet is open.

+1

What ashnazg said, you can just keep your rear break engaged a little to prevent you from rolling back while you ease the throttle open.
Also I clearly remember reading somewhere (in my Zero's manual or somewhere on this forum??) that a powered stop like you've suggested can be damaging to the electric motor in the long run.

That spacing looks OK to me.  My feeling is that as long as you have some distance between the edge of the belt and the cog wheel flange that does not vary when the wheel is rotated, that should be good enough.  My belt tension was set right at the upper limit of tension when it came from the factory and it made noticeable groaning at low speeds when new.  However, after about 500 miles the groaning slowly disappeared.  Either that or I got  used to the noise. 

There's an edge ... but I don't see any spacing. Certainly not when keeping in mind that the lip is slightly chamfered (see exaggerated picture I've attached).

I'm at around 13000km (~8000miles) and I still hear the groaning at any speed faster than turtle.
Whenever there's any real torque exercised on the rear sprocket I hear the belt groaning and vibrating

It's the last real annoyance I have from my zero ... the fact that, even for an electric motorcycle, it still makes too much noise

The belt of my bike is currently firmly rubbing the shouldered side of the rear sprocket.

I've found this helpful post which touched the exact topic in my question and where Doctorbass gave an excellent response in his last paragraph:

If your belt is too close to the rear sproket shoulder, then you can remove the motor sproket and remove one of the spacer behind it. this is about 1.5mm thick and there is 3 of these . Then your belt should be  1.5mm far from teh rear sproket shoulder.

I have one more question though and rather than necroing a thread from 2014 I thought I'd better start a new post.
--> does this fix still apply for the Zero 2017 SR?

I also have the soft bags I linked in the second post of this thread. I only use them when I need the additional storage (not often) but I have the same experience as brose.
If you don't have a rack, try to tie them as high as possible because they tend to lean inwards when loaded.

On a zero you can get a little more security on the bags (read: against stealing the bags themselves, not talking about the content) since you can place one or both of the Velcro straps (that should go over the saddle) under the saddle. Trust me when I say that it's a bitch to try and remove them when you don't have the tools at hand to remove the saddle also.
... A moot pointy of course if you want the bags to be easily removable.

Kind of makes you wonder what these various Zero software and firmware "updates" are actually supposed to do.   

Although that's hardly ever done in the automobile/motorcycle sector it would be nice if they publicized a release note with the updates.
Perhaps together with a chapter "known issues".

That info can be a real treasure trove for troubleshooting ... especially for early adopters.

Hi,

Maybe this has already been asked/answered (I doubt I’m the first one) but couldn’t find anything relevant, so I’m sorry if this is a redundant post.

At my workplace they’re going to install charge stations, which is great news. Also, at several malls around my neighbourhood I’ve found free charge stations.
However, I don’t have a charge tank and all those stations use the European Type 2 plug aka Mennekes plug aka VDE-AR-E 2623-2-2 .
Zero does offer this or this solution but an SAE J1772 is the wrong type of connector for my region and for those prices I can get A LOT of kilometres just from payed charging at home (not to mention I’d still have to buy a cable too).

Only ready made after market solution I’ve found is this adapter cable … but again, for a little under €230 I can buy a LOT of electricity (and thus kilometers) at my place. So, to get a cheaper electric fix, I’m thinking to put my DIY skills to the test and want to make the same cable myself.


I’ve found a ‘relatively’ cheap Type 2 connector here.
Electrical connections from PE, N and L1 (don’t need L2 or L3) to C13 is straightforward.
Signalling used on the Mennekes plug is exactly the same as for the J1772 plug (see this Wiki and its references).
Proximity Pilot is easy enough to understand and rather irrelevant if I’m only using the onboard charger.


Now ...

The Control Pilot on the other hand is not yet completely clear to me.
It would seem I can build the whole thing out of only a few passive components.
Since I'm not using the latch for PP I can re-purpose it to tell the EVSE to switch from connected (State B) to charging (State C) and vice versa.
And I can ignore the whole duty cycle thing because I'm using the lowest rating anyway.
This all seems a bit too easy and I feel I'm missing something which could throw a spanner in the works … anyone else has any experience with this?

For the end result I’d like to integrate the entire circuit in the handle (with a few additional indicators and safety mechanisms).

To me, lack of vibration is a major strength of electrics. My Zero may be the first motorcycle I've ever owned that doesn't make my hands numb.

Yeah, that's also one of my observations.

I've read somewhere that the no vibration thing is also one of the upsides of riding a Boss Hoss.
(A quick google search gave this from Wikipedia: "Boss Hoss bikes and trikes are noted not only for their enormous power and size but also for their low vibration")

But with comparing a Zero with a Boss Hoss, I doubt you can get any further on the opposite sides of the spectrum ... unless you leave the motorcycle category.