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Gel epoxy is the strongest and easiest to work with in my experience.  The bond ends up stronger than the original:

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Epoxy-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1405603/dp/B001MUM62C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535734583&sr=8-4&keywords=gel+epoxy&dpID=51Lo2A1mABL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks for your input, everyone.

During charging, my light is normally on for about a second and off for about a second.  When it gets near fully charged (or is in cell balancing, I can't tell) it goes to steady green.  I have verified this behavior by videotaping the charge process twice, each time with just one battery installed in the front slot.

I have only seen the erratic charge light behavior with both batteries installed, so I'm wondering if it might be a connector issue on the back battery slot.  I should try charging one battery in the back slot to test that, though it's not the recommended configuration.

I will try charging both together again this weekend and record that to see if the behavior comes back.

I have recently noticed that after the regular, slow-blinking stage of active charging, my 2013 XU goes into a stage where the green charge light is neither steady nor blinking, but is mostly on with occasional, random moments where it flashes off.  Has anyone seen this behavior?  Does it mean anything, or is it possibly a sign of trouble?  The app says that the bike is still charging, albeit at a slower rate.  Eventually, I think the light will shift to a steady green, when the chargers are off and the BMS is doing cell balancing.  Is my bike the only one that acts this way?

Thanks.

Hi Markus,

The main maintenance you'll need is tires and brake pads as they wear out.  If you're not used to motorcycles, you'll be shocked to learn that 6000-8000 miles is doing pretty well for tire wear before you need to replace.  It's not a do-it-yourself operation for me at least, although I could probably handle brake pad replacement if I applied myself.

If you get an FXS with removable battery/batteries, it still weighs over 200 lbs without batteries installed.  You need two buff guys to lift it into a van, based on my experience.  You shouldn't have any leaks with it on its side, because the hydraulic brake fluid is in sealed reservoirs.  There are no other fluids on the bike.

Seat height is about 33 inches according to the specs <http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/zero-fxs/>, and the handlebars are probably another 10 inches above that.  The mirrors stick out pretty far to each side, and ride above the handlebars as well, so a lean-to would need to be pretty wide at the top to work.  You can also get a motorcycle cover, which I would recommend in any case.

Bringing the battery/batteries indoors is a good idea for cold weather.  I bought an outboard charger and connector, which makes it all a little more flexible.

-Greg

What a tragedy.  Seems so unfair to have ridden it only 1000 mi.  You must have gotten a good deal on the bike if the repair costs are so unfavorable... not that it's much consolation.

Is the theory that the chargers went bad and somehow drained the cells?

I don't suppose there's anyone out there selling batteries off a wrecked 2013 FX or XU?  (You may even be able to search years before and after if the cell compliment didn't change by swapping the BMS heads.)

If it's really for scrap, maybe I can help you recoup something from your (shippable) spare parts.

Really sorry to hear in any event.

I'm not sure how similar the 2016 FX is to the 2013 XU, but the following (unofficial) wiring schematic may offer some clues:

https://zeromanual.com/index.php/File:2016_FX_Wiring_1-1-preview.png

I am not sure from your post if your XU has one battery or two.  My 2013 XU has two batteries installed.
I took some measurements, just to get an idea of what "normal" is, but I'm not sure this will be much help.  One battery measures 7.2 volts or so across its main terminals when it's off the bike, and the other measures nearly zero (about 0.007 volts).  I have no idea why the two would be different, or what it means, if anything.  I don't think you should expect to measure a high voltage across the battery terminals unless the relay is engaged -- meaning it's on the bike and switched on.
My guess is that something could be wrong with the controller that operates the relays and the display.  If removing both batteries and letting it sit for a while doesn't reset it, then I'm not sure what would, or if it needs to go to the shop.
I wouldn't think your batteries were the problem.  The LEDs on the BMS don't light unless they are switched on and/or charging.
Are you hearing the battery relays (loud simultaneous clicks from both batteries), or the charger relay (two softer clicks in succession coming from the motorcycle)?

See also the recent attached FB post from Zero Motorcycles group.