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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Crilly on November 07, 2019, 03:07:30 AM
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:). It finally got below freezing in the Milwaukee Area. I had my jacket hooked to the front accessory plug.
When I tried to also power heated pants and gloves, the bike cut the power to the accessory plug. With the jacket and pants it was ok except the voltage at the 12 volt battery would drop from 13.2 to 12.8.
Today while watching it snow, I found a different power source. Just in front of the storage area, and just behind the front accessory plug, are a pair of heavy gage wires. They are on a plug that plugs into the box in front of the storage area. Blue is positive, black negative.
I hooked my heated gear up to them. Works great. Battery voltage does not drop.
The new power source switches on with the click when the ignition switch is turned on. And off 10 to 15 seconds after turned off.
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Ps. Fuse accordingly.
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Ah you found the DCDC converter :)
It gets the 116 volt input from the battery and converts it into 12-13 Volts. So you could use these if you fuse them properly.
The DCDC converter is around 300 to 500 W so should be more than enough to keep you warm :)
There is also a secondary accessory 12V plug (SAE style) at the rear left bottom of the "tank". It is located inside the black wire covering sleeve going down to the bottom left subframe to frame bolt and very easy to pull out.
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I would be careful doing what you did. It sounds like your gear pulled more than the limit for the accessory system. You've bypassed it, but that may mean you don't have enough 12V power to power ABS or other 12V systems during a ride event or other high current 12V event. The SR/F DCDC is only 300W, there isn't a ton of extra wattage
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Oops, yeah I forgot about the ABS/stability system also using the 12V system :o 8)
Like Auriga said, it is best not to exceed the accessory fuse rating by bypassing it and possibly overloading the DCDC converter. I would suggest trying the SAE plug i mentioned above because this has far thicker wires than the sumotomi connector in the front. PErhaps it was "just" the voltage dropping because of the thinner wires.
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The voltage drop was at the 12 volt battery terminals.
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That DC-DC converter has a limit of 300W for the entire 12V system, so definitely be careful tapping it.
I would like to see photos of what you’ve arranged if possible.
For what it’s worth, that Sevcon DC-DC converter is one of the less reliable parts in Zero’s components. It can be sensitive to electrical fluctuations and circuit glitches.
On the other hand, it is a generic third party component that can be reasonably replaced if the bike is fully deenergized. And there is a 500W variant.
Just keep in mind how much is running off of it, and what’s at risk if it fails.