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Topics - ZeroMark

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My 2014 DS 11.4 was working great all of these years.  Because of my previous job, I was only commuting like 3 miles each way/day so I've got 20,000 miles on the bike.  Bike performance flawless, strong, and could easily reach over 85 on highway for sustained amounts of time.  Lately, towards the end of last year, I took it out and was going down a road at 65, when all of a sudden it started slowing down.  Battery around 85% or so.  Couldn't add throttle.  When Itried to by holding it down more for increase in throttle, the display went to -- instead of 85% and started blinking.  I had to pull over because the bike basically stopped powering the motor.  Left it by side of road for an hour and returned.  Came back 1 hour later, turned on key and it went to 35%.  Got on bike drove home and recharged back to 100%.  Last 3 trips on bike, same issue.  Around 85%, If I'm going 50+ mph, bike starts slowing down.  Now I figured out that if I back down to maybe 30-35 mph I can continue driving, but each application of throttle more then about 35 it will cause the motor to slow down/lose power.  Basically allowed me to limp to where I can get to and plug it in.

I have't tried to read the diag codes on the battery brick in the little circular window, but at 6 years, I'm wondering if my cells are misleading me into thinking that 100% is still 100%.

Today's trip 3 miles up one road to the home improvement store, and it was doing in again once I got over 50 mph - and that was starting at 98% on the gauge at the start out of the garage.

Try to ride 14 miles each way to work for my new job is out of the question.  I can't trust the bike for short trips, and I know it can't possible do the long ones.

Anyone else see this behavior?  It's like the more current you apply, the faster this condition arrives and the greater the change I will be stuck somewhere.

Is it practical to think my dealer here in Las Vegas could replace bad cells in the monolith if that's the problem, or is 6 years the practical life of my 2014 DS 11.4?  I want to ride my Zero to work down the 215 freeway for 14 miles, but I can't even get up and maintain freeway speed anymore.

Mark (ZeroMark)
in Henderson, Las Vegas, NV
2014 DS 11.4

2
I was curious of anyone has really found anything or any way to clean the white plastics or "restore the bright white" in the white plastics like the tank and tail plastics.  I have my 2014 DS and the beautiful bright white it came with is now faded and yellowing slightly even though the bike is parked in the shade and in the garage even on work days.  After 4 years, I have found that the owners manual cleaning suggestions don't stop the fade and while it's all still flawless, the suggestions on the unofficial zero web site of mixing up some peroxide and trying to concoct sonm "retr0bright" doesn't sit well with me - that is unless someone else can confirm it actually works without causing more harm then good.

I'm starting to notice that with the color changing going on now with the 2017+ bikes, I'm seeing tanks and plastics for the Zero's show up on EBAY, however, it seems like there is more people turning their existing bikes to the white color (and thus putting their YELLOW and RED tank and tail plastics up for sale) then there is giving up the white ones, so believe me - if and when I find some WHITE DS TANK and TAIL PLASTICS on EBAY, I'm certainly going to consider it at the prices they seem to be asking (I've seen $125 / $150 for new yellow tanks even with the charge tank version up there).

Does anyone here in the USA want to give me an idea what ZERO wants for WHITE TANK and TAIL plastics that would make my bike BRIGHT WHITE again?  I'm not looking to hold anyone's quote or go around my local dealer - but I just want a ballpark cost for comparison of the white tank and tail parts for my 2014 DS.  I don't have a white fender because DS bikes have the black motocross / enduro style fender so I don't care about fender costs.  All of this would help me decide whether it's worth replacing from ZERO, replacing from someone on EBAY, or whether some miracle cleaner out there can restore my dingy and yellowing white back to a brighter and cleaner white!

Thoughts anyone?

Mark

p.s. I like my bike's WHITE color.  I'm not interested in carbon fiber, changing to another color, or repainting it so don't try to discuss any of those 3 options.

3
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Plugless Power (Wireless Charging)
« on: October 14, 2016, 04:47:15 AM »
I was wondering if anyone has looked at anything like plugless recharging like they have for the LEAF, VOLT, Cadillac ELR and Tesla?  The units (www.pluglesspower.com ) sit on the floor and you drive over it and once it lines up with the induction unit on the car (or bike!) then charging can begin.  The units they show on their web site do 3.3Kw Level 2 wireless changing.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has looked into induction charging, and if anyone has anything working like this?

Ashley Harris at mailto:aharris@evatran.com is tracking interest in EV's and so if anyone wants something lke this, you could always drop her a note about your Zero.

In any case, the idea seems forward thinking even if the efficiency doesn't.  What do you guys think about it?

Mark Hripko (ZeroMark)

4
Anybody got any information about a person with a pacemaker or an in-chest defibrillator (or one of the combo units) as it relates to riding a zero (like a 2014 ds).  Is there any official position on this, or does anyone have any info (informal, official) about the potential interference.  I've never heard anyone discuss how much emf or what kind or energy surrounds an electric bike.  Should someone considering a motorcycle when they have an icd/pacemaker be worried riding a Zero any more then say the cautionary warnings of holding a cell phone up near that side of their chest where an icd might be implanted...

5
Curious to hear anyones take on why in this day and age of alloy wheels, anyone would want spoked wheels on their motorcycle.  I have spoked wheels on my 2014 DS, but i would trade them in a heartbeat if someone wanted to, especially ZERO.  I'm secretly hoping they will trade them for the 2014 alloy wheels the other bikes all came with, or the 2015 alloy wheels on the 2015 DS.  Both my front and back wheel seem out of round with these spoked wheels, and i would bet the alloy ones never do.

Is there any practical or even logical reason why all other zero 2014 bikes had alloy rims and the 2014 had these spoked wheels?

Can I put a tubeless tire on those spoked rims, or is that yet another reason i dislike the spoked wheel.  Other then looking good for the first few days, why in the world would anyone want spoked wheels/rims?

6
My 2014 DS has been a dream and a blast for the past 13 months and 6500 miles all problem free.  Then, last week the 12 volt stuff all was out (in another post-fixed by replacing 4A fuse in back of battery box) and today, I ride home from work and find that I'm riding on a flat rear tire.  First of all, it's amazing how you almost cannot tell it's flat-it seems to roll smooth and everything stays tight. But now I hae the dilemma: with my ZERO dealer 300 miles away, what is the best way to fix it?  I have worked on cars and bikes before and "could" remove the spoked rear wheel and it's tube based tire, but should I?  If it rides 4 miles from work to home on a flat (I'm not sure but may have done that far) should I just ride another 2 miles to a local off-road dealer who knows how to change a tire, or drive or ride it 5 miles over to Carter Powersports - who USED TO BE the Las Vegas dealer a few years back but no longer is a zero dealer.  It the tire removal easy (removal from bike is really the question, getting off brakes, belt, and swingarm...  At 6500 miles, should i be replacing brakes or belt as long as it's apart?  Even more importantly - when it comes to replacing the tire and the tube on the read of the 2014 DS, (besides wishing i had alloy rims instead of spokes) can i go tubeless, or do the spoked rims make that not a good idea.  Would you change tire brands - knowing i want the same size/width/ everything as the original tire on the bike.  Or can I just fill the tire with fix-a-flat and with enough goo and time, it will plug the leak for another couple opf weeks until i can take it to my dealer, 300 miles away?

Curious to hear others thoughts on all of this.  I don't want any discussion of switching tire sizes or stuff like that, I want to fix my existing flat the way that makes the most sense (the tire itself seems in good shape minues the area wherre i removed the razor blade shaped device the size of a small fingernail that sliced into it.)  I don't want  change the ture unless i need to if i only need to change the tube... unless it's matched set kinda thing where i should do them both.

The only good i can see coming of this is that I can finally see if i can figure out why the rear axle/tire seems to squeek/squeal like it could use some bearing grease, even though it seems like it's got that and occasionally rolls extra silently...

MARK (ZeroMark)

7
My 2014 DS has been near perfect for over one year.  Yesterday i go to ride it to rescue my wife who is stranded in her gasoline powered car, and i realize about 1/2 way there, that i have NO LIGHTS, NO TURN SIGNALS, NO HORN.  The dash is ok, the kill switch ok, and the motor and charging all ok.  seems like everything protected by the low power fuses (after reading my manual) is not working like the entire 12v low power subsystem is out/down.  So before i take the seat off and (sadly) have to start troubleshooting this, what is the chance there is some plug or cable that goes to or from the 12 v fuses that is making ALL 12 systems appear to be broken?  Or is it more likely that every 12v fuse is in fact blown while nothing seems wrong with anything else?  Any suggestions on this.  Seems like every system protected by the 12 fuse block is every system that is not functioning right now....

8
I've got 5000 miles (today) and 11.5 months on my 2014 Zero DS and love this bike.  But lately I've started to notice that the front spoke wheel rim seems to vibrate up and down slightly almost as if the circle is more like an egg shape.  The front fender up top vibrates a lot due to this, and at certain speeds and cruising, i am starting to wish it wasn't vibrating.  Since there are no Zero dealers in the Las Vegas area, I am wondering what I should do...  I'm going to Calif next week, near some Zero dealers, but with limited time in California, I'm wondering what best action would be?  Can a tightening of the spokes correct this and can a competent motorcycle shop of any brand do this?  Or would that be considered some sort of warranty defect and could be possibly replaced?  What does a non-spoke version of that 17 inch rim cost and is it worth considering?  Can I swap the front spoke wheel with DS from another year, like 2015?  Is this normal when you have a spoke rim and to be expected? it has no had any adverse impact, or over-stress on it like hitting something.  i drive 4 miles to work each way and cruise in the Vegas sun effortlessly.  I just hate that egg-shape up and down feeling when i know cast alloy rims wouldn't do things like this right?

I'm loving this ride and taking it my high school class reunion and picnic to show it off.... i just don't want the comment from drivers (and myself) to be the feeling of the out-of-round...


-Mark 

9
So far, for the last 51 charging cycles, everything has worked perfectly with the 2014 Zero 11.4 DS.  Last night, after the usual day of riding, I plugged in my charging cord to the wall socket and everything was fine - charging from 72%.  When I went out there today to prepare to ride the bike to work, the ENTIRE LCD cluster was flashing the entire LCD items, all on, all off, all on, all off.  I couldn't get it to stop until I put the key in it (it was charging in the straight up and down position, which I called "off, but the wheel is steerable".  When I turned the key over to LOCKED front wheel, it still was flashing everything on the display on, off, on off on off.  Then turned the key to ON/run position, and it still was flashing.  Then I turned back to Locked, and waiting 10 seconds, and then back to on/run, and then the display went thru the normal self test blinking, and then everything was fine.

Anyone ever seen this.  The battery stopped at 95% apparently, but the plug had power all night.  Normally it charges to 97, 98 or 100 depending on hours.

But the flashing sure was scary and wierd.  I attached my phone app and it shows no errors.  I tried to see if any errors blinked on the red symbol on the bottom of the lcd display like the manual mentions, but everything is acting fine now.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Mark Hripko

10
Hey, I've played a little with the Zero motorcycle app and my 2014 DS 11.4 bike, but honestly, I've never really managed to set anything that really "felt" any different.  If Eco is setup for economy and Sport is for quick and sporty, can "custom" settings go "below" what Eco does in terms of maximum range, minimum power and torgue and greatest ride-distance.  Can the custom settings exceed the Sport settings?  If so, then what items can i set to feel these differences?

What I would like to hear from someone would be 2 sets of custom settings that exploit the 2 "ends" of the spectrum-> one set of settings that are purely for max distance and minimal consumption.  The other settings would be max power/and/or/speed to get from here to there and consumption of power the least of my worries.

In other words, I want to "feel" the two extremes....

Can someone give me some numbers to plug into my phone app so I can feel the difference?

-MARK

11
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Maximum Efficiency at what Speed?
« on: September 11, 2014, 08:45:17 AM »
Just put 1300 miles on my new 2014 DS 11.4 riding a nice 4 mile commute down one long street to get to work and back each day.  Flat, lights all timed pretty nicely, weather is Las Vegas heat.  My question is: at what speed in MPH is the motor on my Zero operating most efficiently?  40MPH?  50MPH? 30MPH?  I have the stock/standard everything with the belt drive and wanted to hear someone chime in on the specifics of the motor.  Is it designed for a certain RPM to be most efficient?

I've read other posts regarding efficiency, and overall, my app says i run approx 88 watts/hr over the life of the bike so far.

-Mark

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