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Messages - David_Walsh

Pages: [1] 2
1
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Playing with my XU MBB
« on: February 21, 2018, 04:56:44 AM »
Ah, yeah - you can forget about the Regen lever - my mistake.
Hmm, I know about the sensors used in the motors in our bikes, but clueless really with the MBB  :o

Maybe someone will chime in with some suggestions for you.

Cheers, Dave.

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Playing with my XU MBB
« on: February 19, 2018, 04:00:10 PM »
Hi, that error seems to be:
4884 - Sequence Fault - Any drive switch active at power up.
Check your switches? Temporarily disconnect your regen lever too.

With the MBB, have you physically inspected it? Maybe the connections are corroded.
Good luck.

3
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Zero DS 2011 wiring diagram
« on: October 06, 2017, 01:45:30 PM »
Oh, OK.
Thought Zero changed in 2010 - apologies.
I don't know too much about those models... You can probably get onto the motor terminals with a meter. See if you can measure voltage when you throttle it? If you do, then it is probably brushes that are the problem. How many miles on the bike?
The motor is running fine, if I just power up the Alltrax AXE controller with the motor connected to it. And I also used the original throttle. So the problem occurs, when everything is connected to the rest of the bike (the MBB).
OK, the MBB huh...? But no fault code shown by the led flashes?
My understanding is that the MBB checks MANY electrical components before it allows the throttle signal to influence the controller to spin the motor - but you should see a fault code series of flashes. I guess it may be a faulty MBB itself? This (Spanish) guy Manuel shows how to swap one out:
'course, you need a replacement MBB and Spanish to benefit...

Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk


4
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Zero DS 2011 wiring diagram
« on: September 26, 2017, 10:03:37 PM »
Chris, when I had a similar problem, swapping out the sensor for the updated one fixed it for me: http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7289.msg60715#msg60715

Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk

Hi David,

I've got an Agni motor, the Lynch design. I've been through your thread already   :).
Oh, OK.
Thought Zero changed in 2010 - apologies.
I don't know too much about those models... You can probably get onto the motor terminals with a meter. See if you can measure voltage when you throttle it? If you do, then it is probably brushes that are the problem. How many miles on the bike?

Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk


5
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Zero DS 2011 wiring diagram
« on: September 26, 2017, 07:49:09 PM »
Dear all,

I'm riding a 2011 DS for a couple of month now, and it drove quite well. Some weeks ago, the motor didn't start anymore after stopping at a traffic light for example. Sometimes it started after a couple of times switching on and off the ignition, sometimes I had to wait till the next day. I started checking everything, the motor, the connectors, reading out the MBB and the controller - no errors. I the measured the resistance of the throttle at the connectors to the controller, and realized that it is not connected directly, but through the MBB I guess. So to understand everything now and to find the error, I'm looking for a wiring diagram. My dealer doesn't have on, Zero in Europe tells me, that "we are not allowed sharing any technical details directly with customers regarding safety issues".
Can anybody help?

Thanks, Christoph
Chris, when I had a similar problem, swapping out the sensor for the updated one fixed it for me: http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7289.msg60715#msg60715

Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk


6
Here is a picture of the sensor

I'll attach a PDF I have below this message. It does have a picture of the sensor.

Congrats David!

I was able to do the same by buying the same sensor the motor had, which is from the supplier RLS but I´m wondering if yours is the same sensor or Motenergy has replaced it by a different one. Do you have any pic from the sensor?

I informed Zero about this fix a couple of years ago but it seems that either they didn´t have any interest in keeping the <12 models in the streets or they just wanted to put the new motors in the old bikes...

By the way, as you say it´s crucial to keep the motor timing, otherwise expect to see some magnets flying out ot the motor...

7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Farkles And Tyres
« on: September 19, 2017, 04:41:41 AM »
Sure Brian,

As I reused the original Zero pins, I found these were a couple of mm larger diameter than the pins fitted to the Honda foot-pegs, so I drilled them out. As they are aluminum, this is easy to do.
I then found that while they would still hinge up out of the way, they were a little larger than the Zero pegs, so I filed off a mm or so off of them and.. They fitted, worked fine and are comfortable.
I bought these aftermarket ones [cheap and good  :) ] :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Footrest-Foot-Pegs-For-Honda-CBR-750-600-1300-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki/152050093683

Dave.


8
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Re: Farkles And Tyres contonued...
« on: September 17, 2017, 07:32:33 PM »
Rear tyre and foot-peg pics...

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / Farkles And Tyres
« on: September 17, 2017, 07:30:50 PM »
Hi all, I've added a few farkles to my 2012 DS.
I've fitted a screen and RAM mount
Permanently installed a charging cable (with sealant) to allow easy charging.
Changed the stock semi off-road tyres to road tyres that are very good in the rain.
Change the metal foot-pegs to rubber topped Honda ones (took some drilling/filing).
Pics below.

Tyres details are:
Original fitment:
Front 100 / 80 - 17
Rear 110 / 90 - 16
Changed to:
Front tyre: Michelin Pilot Road 3 58W (168 MPH rating) 120/70-ZR17
Rear: Michelin 120/80-16 60P (93 MPH rating) City Grip
* note 5mm wider each side.

10
I'll attach a PDF I have below this message. It does have a picture of the sensor.

Congrats David!

I was able to do the same by buying the same sensor the motor had, which is from the supplier RLS but I´m wondering if yours is the same sensor or Motenergy has replaced it by a different one. Do you have any pic from the sensor?

I informed Zero about this fix a couple of years ago but it seems that either they didn´t have any interest in keeping the <12 models in the streets or they just wanted to put the new motors in the old bikes...

By the way, as you say it´s crucial to keep the motor timing, otherwise expect to see some magnets flying out ot the motor...

11
Do you have the contact where to buy the sensor. I have the same problem with my 2012 and I was just waiting because I didn't have 2000$ yo spend on a new motor.
Sure, contact John Fiorenza: sales@motenergy.com

Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk


12
Hi all,
I recently acquired a 2012 Zero DS ZF 9. I'm in the UK.
It seemed fine at first, but it began cutting out on me  :(
Then when I occasionally turned it on, it would just stutter a bit or even try to go in reverse.
Cutting out in traffic was very bad news.
I googled the problem and discovered that it was a known problem, requiring a free firmware upgrade.
I booked in at my local dealers - eventually after non returned emails, I called them up.
My problem had been passed to the most junior Mechanic, who could not connect to the bike to do the firmware upgrade.

After a call to the States, the Mechanic told me "bad news I'm afraid: It has a sensor problem - you need a new motor, £2000"
I was not too pleased to hear this, even less pleased to hear the some parts would have to be sent to Holland for reprogramming... But I would gain a 20% power increase. I asked did I have any other options and got told "you can trade your bike in for a new bike" I am still waiting to hear what the discount is.

I went home and decided that maybe Google was my friend after all, as I discovered that the Zeros had used Lynch motors, then Motenergy motors. My bike had a Motenergy motor. I contacted John Fiorenza at Motenergy and he told me that they had replaced the old error-prone sensor with a new sensor that would probably fix my problem. I would cost me $30 plus shipping. I liked the sound of that - it just made sense. I bought one and when it arrived fitted it myself - having lost faith in dealerships etc.

With some help and advice from John (a great guy) I had the confidence to switch out the old sensor for the new one John sent me - more importantly - it has worked - NO MORE PROBLEMS!  ;D

Read on for the step-by-step

Undo the rear brake and pedal
Slacken motor mounts so the belt is loose
Slacken rear wheel.
Jack the bike up so the rear wheel leaves the floor.
Remove the rear wheel.
Remove the rear suspension / shock absorber
Swingarm removal - this is unfortunately necessary...
Locking in place the 24mm nuts on the inside of the swingarm are two 2.5mm allen/hex bolts - remove these both sides.
Using a 24mm wrench/spanner on the inside of the swingarm and a 10mm allen key/wrench, drop the swing arm.
Now the motor has clearance to be moved rearward for access.
Leaving the motor connected, The sensor is mounted under a circular rear cover that is about 3 inches in diameter, held by three phillips head machine screws.  Remove this cover, and you may see some white potting compound on the sensor board (or not on older models)
(DO NOT disturb the motor timing by touching the 4 allen bolts!)
Dig out the sealant from around the old sensor, if present (newer motors)
remove the 4 screws holding the sensor board and unclip the connecting wire.
Prise out the old sensor. Cleanup the old sealant remains, if present.
Replace with the new sensor - same orientation of course.
Congratulations! the new sensor works by virtue of the quantum effect known as the Giant MagnetoResistance (GMR) effect which earned its discoverers the Nobel Prize in Physics in 2007 - yes, your zero is now a quantum vehicle.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_magnetoresistance
I'll attempt to upload some pics...





13
Here is what I would do:
Find the additional charging point (about where your right calf is when sitting on the bike) remove the rubber plug.
Carefully measure the voltage - I'm guessing this will be 30 to 40 volts. Connect a charger and bring this up to 70+ volts. I have a reg-a-volt transformer + rectifier that I  would use, 5 amps will do. DC of course.
Then reset the BMS and see if it will take a charge.
Disclaimer : this what I would do, the additional charger port is connected to the pack voltage as can be dangerous. Try this at your own risk.

That said, the on board charger needs a certain minimum voltage, if you can bring the pack voltage above that - you're in business. Good luck.

14
Look in the manual like I did.
Error 24 is 'startup error' , so not too helpful.
Try a BMS reset? :
2013-2014 BMS Reset
Key the bike off and unplug it from charging. Wait for the contactor to click open.
Uncover the rubber pad on the front of the batter case facing the front wheel, below the window for the BMS indicating lights.
The window covers a string of small LEDs, one red on the left followed by four green. They'll indicate charge level when the bike is keyed off.
The rubber pad covers a white plastic port coated in dielectric grease.
Press to reset
There is only one reset button above the plastic port which performs a hardware reset.
Take a pen (say) and depress the reset button for a few seconds and then release.
Expect the upper pad's LEDs to go dark while the button is depressed and then turn on again when release.
The lights should stabilize after an initial startup sequence for a few seconds.
Check whether the error code is clear by keying on the vehicle or whatever is appropriate.

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