ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Aikirob on May 23, 2017, 12:29:39 PM
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I got a SAE to USB accessory from eBay and need to install it, can someone please provide the details as to where the SAE connector is located and what I need to take off to get to it? Pictures would help out a lot if you have them.
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I got a SAE to USB accessory from eBay and need to install it, can someone please provide the details as to where the SAE connector is located and what I need to take off to get to it? Pictures would help out a lot if you have them.
Try the unOfficial manual: http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Common_Modifications#Accessory_Power
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Yes and, just to say it is kind of tucked away maybe zip-tied in with the Sumitomo connector if you have one for your model year. It helps to have a mirror and a flashlight to see this if you've never seen what's in there before.
For removing the cowl I suggest a midget wrench, for which I really like my Chapman Mfg #1916 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6346.msg49094#msg49094) set. Go easy on the plastics fasteners into their mating surfaces, it's just a plastic rod with a hole down the center and will strip out easily. As best I was able to discern the top most fastener is slightly larger and has a washer compared to the slightly smaller two fasteners middle and bottom with no washer.
For the SAE connection I definitely recommend being prepared have some dielectric grease and heat shrink tubing to seal that well.
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worked it out, had to take the seat off to get the tank plastics off and found the SAE cable under there, link to the final product on this youtube video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRN2ZtbXeNw&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRN2ZtbXeNw&feature=youtu.be)
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Haha! The air filter mod on the helmet is pretty wicked! Very nice!
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Thanks matey, going to do some more mods to the helmet. But might buy a better shaped helmet first
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I got a SAE to USB accessory from eBay and need to install it, can someone please provide the details as to where the SAE connector is located and what I need to take off to get to it? Pictures would help out a lot if you have them.
Installed one on my DSR two weeks ago ('16). Followed the instructions in the manual and the connector was not tied down, just stuffed in with the other 12v connector. Now I have Waze on the bike... Took an hour or so to figure out the tank plastic's screws.
Steve
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Has anyone tried this with a power tank? I fear its removal is more cumbersome, but not sure tbh
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Has anyone tried this with a power tank? I fear its removal is more cumbersome, but not sure tbh
For this, you'll want to focus on accessing the plug from under the front of the frame. It will still help to remove the tank plastics and you'll want the best possible lighting to see under there. I don't know how well the Power Tank is strapped in but at ~40lbs weight it's not easy to lift out. NB I don't have a Power Tank but do have the Supercharger V1 which at half that weight is still a bulky piece of equipment in the way.
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Thanks for the guidance. I've got the day off so got the nerve up to remove the tank plastics, but still have no idea where this illusive connector is lol
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A few photos of what I'm seeing. Not sure they help though do they? The last couple were my attempt at looking at what was under the front of the frame. Thanks again for the assistance.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/cf60da5e0cf58570c1fc454bdc34e378.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/be74c33f577190b1d687902f63ba69b7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/00042291b7cada26beabb287641ca015.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/6e59b49d3e00cd938b03b0aa20217b61.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/9e4ee7da319fadc172cc40720f2e62a6.jpg)
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*moderator edit* add width= bbcode tags to images for display on mobile devices
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Remove that nut/washer from the threaded tie-down rod in the first two pictures either side, and that unit should lift up and out. Then take more pictures :-)
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Removed the tie-downs, but there isn't enough slack on the one orange cable coming up from underneath to remove the unit. Is the brown connection area a connector that can be removed or are the connections hardwired through the brown connection point? Headed down a serious rabbit hole lol
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I defer at this point to Terry or anyone else who has hands-on with the PowerTank module.
Logically though that brown connector is safe to connect/disconnect some minutes after the bike is off and the contactors (switch inside battery turns on/off battery to outside of its case) have disabled from the bike no longer telling them to be active. But you would want to avoid any kind of large different voltage between the main battery and the PowerTank, so do not allow bike to be turned on nor plugged in to charge until everything is back together. - Resist temptation to test your 12Vdc connections you are uncovering until *after* the PowerTank is reattached.
The brown connector should be only as hazardous to handle as the bike's Aux charging port would be, which is to say they are designed to prevent finger contact but still be mindful don't stick that threaded rod into the contacts, and possibly is the same connector as the aux charging port. Those brown aux charging port connectors can be bolted or secured with additional hardware (or zap straps) but are likely just a plug with a few pounds of force to connect and disconnect.
Glad if you document with more and higher-resolution photos. There's people who have done this before but not receently with such a clean stock bike and taking good photos :-)
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Ok, so I mustered up a bit more courage and it's just a connector that can be pulled out with a little force. Took a few additoonal pics, and I believe I found the SAE connector. Let me know if you concur. My shop light went Tango Uniform, so these pics are a bit darker.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/d9b37e4a6a9f053a310f20595727878b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/a14bab59c1503973e208658b8d15875e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/58549d230ba15cec4ab435ec1e6900e9.jpg)
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Whoa! Thanks for the photos.
I recommend only (re)connecting a Power Tank connection while the bike is off and the main contactors are open, by the way. Even wait 10 minutes after just for a full discharge just in case.
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I guess I should ask what is considered to be the main connectors? I had the bike off and hasn't been charging for a few days before I started work on it earlier today.
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I guess I should ask what is considered to be the main connectors? I had the bike off and hasn't been charging for a few days before I started work on it earlier today.
Contactors, not connectors. The contactor is a remotely operated switch in-circuit you hear go "click" after some delay when you key on or off the bike. There are some sources of power from the monolith battery that go directly, but they are limited compared to the huge capability of power available when the contactor is closed (connected), versus when it is open (not connected).
Besides reducing risk of death or injury, the contactor (that has been allowed to click open and so deactivate the power) is a good separation between a battery system and some accident causing a welded short and subsequent fire danger. When you key off the bike, after a delay, you hear an additional "click" from somewhere in the ZF13.0 monolith and that is the contactor opening. When it is open there are still some electronics in the system that store energy as they were recently being connected before the contactor opened, so you would wait 2 minutes (the recommendation is 10 minutes to be absolutely sure about it) for things to self-discharge down towards zero voltage. Over thirty volts is where power systems are considered dangerous, and less than thirty volts can still be dangerous but surely over thirty is something to avoid.
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Roger that. Helps if I could read. Thanks for the claification. Very helpful.
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Don't mind the snickering FX owners...
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Is the SAE plug that blue black wire connector in the last photo?
Edit: I was wondering if this one would fit in the existing cutout:
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Yep, that one would work. The picture you posted that is.
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Now you get to do the sumitomo. Got crimper?
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Now you get to do the sumitomo. Got crimper?
You don't have to do the sumitomo. An SAE "Y" connection works nearly as well with a little added bulk. Wiring a sumitomo is some geek factor I think.