ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

So where will the additional electricity come from for the transition to carbon free energy come from?
Peter Zion talks about Geothermal technology
https://youtu.be/xwgivqvvYDs?si=qsAu-zn9OnBuHGXP

Google has a pilot thermal energy project in Nevada to test feasibility.
https://youtu.be/lHbtmgprhmA?si=nUH1CI0tjD0LDX82

The front brake on my 2016 DSR seems to have excess drag & I'm thinking a rebuild is in order (72k miles & 4 or 5 pad changes). 
It’s my understanding that replacement parts are hard to impossible to obtain.
Does anyone know where to get rebuild parts?
Anyone upgrade to Brembo?
TIA

A few month ago Zero replaced my 2016 13ZF battery as it had lost substantial capacity. 
The new 14.4 is a HUGE upgrade as my old battery was quite capacity impacted. 

I use the bike to commute about 55 miles/day so in the 4 years of ownership I managed to rack up nearly 60k miles (I purchased the bike @ 1yrs old & 2.8k miles).

My old charge strategy was to plug in at work & unplug at end of shift (100%).
I was able to return to work on that charge & would only supplement significant of additional miles were added to that day’s commute.

I need to maximize the usefulness of this new battery so will limit its charge/discharge levels.
My commute consists of mostly high speed ie fast drain so I’m sure that’s a major factor.

Perhaps it’s best to keep the battery in its mid state as much as possible which means charging at work as well as at home but limit charge to say 70% & discharge at 35%.

What say you?

PS, over in the Parts, Mods And Hacks section I’ve started a discussion on how to limit charge level (input there also appreciated).

52k miles & each winter seems to yield less from the battery but not seeing a drop in range but rather seemingly a reduction in intensity. 
I use the bike to commute to work (about 55 miles round trip) & charge at work.
Not noticing this on my afternoon leg home but that’s due to relative warm temps & high state of charge.
I arrive home in the afternoon with about 72% charge and the next work morning return on the remainder of the charge arriving at work with about 30% & then plug in for a full recharge by shifts end.
I’m finding that with the cool AM commute battery output (amps) increasingly reduces but it seems each winter it’s more noticeable then the last. 

As stated, range has not appeared to be drastically reduced as top speed is reduced & thus energy is saved.
Flat terrain is not too bad but much speed is lost when encountering a grade.

I’m assuming this is a battery issue as apposed to a BMS issue.

The bike will be 5 years old next June so I intend to have the battery condition assessed @ Hollywood Elect. before the warranty is over on the battery.

Any feed back would be appreciated.

Thx.

About 15 months back I was seeing that my charge socket was heat damaged. 
I contacted Hollywood Electric to see about procurement of a replacement (I figured OEM would insure the highest quality as I was/am leery of standard crimp electrical connections when the amps exceed 8 amps. 
I’ve seen plenty of heat damaged connections during my HVAC carrier.

Harlan said that I was (just) under the warranty period & that it would be covered. 
It’s was replaced but that didn’t stop my worries for a reoccurrence.

Gradually I’ve felt the back side of the socket becoming quite warm during charging.
Well, a few weeks ago when I went to plug in the charge cord to the socket, to my dismay I found one of the sockets pin stuck in the socket of the cord!!!!
I plugged in & monitored the temperature.
Turned out it was acceptable so I was able to continue commuting while I sourced a more robust solution & had time to replace. 

I found this plug on Amazon
Viborg AC 250V 10A IEC320 C14 Panel Mount Plug Adapter Power Connector Socket Screw Mount 3 Pins Inlet Male Power Plug Socket Audio Grade (Rhodium Plated, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6M3CHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_Kb-AFb9X67HXG

I like that it has compression screws rather then the usual 1/4” crimped flag connectors. 
I found that this plug is a bit larger in the dimensions that mate to the bikes frame so had to remove material as necessary to fit.
I was able to cut the last 1.5” of the cable leading from the old connector & then cleaned up the individual wire strands with some sand cloth.
I pre positioned several layers of heat stink (note that the OEM used glue lined heat shrink but I didn’t have that type so used sealant injected on the wire end before shrinking to help insure no water migration).
I was able to double up the wire into this sockets junction points.
I inserted a small piece of copper between the setscrew & the wire to protect the wire as well as distribute the pressure from the setscrew. I was careful while tightening the screws as I had read a review stating that the Phillips head strips easily.
Getting this socket to fit into the bikes frame was a challenge due to the fact that the wires go back from the plug, not 90° like the OEM.
I abandoned trying to get the M3 .5x8mm screws to work & instead ordered m3 .5x25mm threaded rod as well as flanged m3 .5 nuts from McMaster Carr (delivered to my door less then 21 hrs later).  NOTE that the nuts require a 5.5mm driver that will have to be hollow if rods aren’t shortened or standoffs used).

[Edit: NOTE 7/32” is close enough to work as a driver or in my case, box wrench]

Space is VERY limited & this work can be frustrating so not a task for the weak at heart. 

I used blue thread locker on the rods & fully screwed then in via dbl nutting.
I found a small tube that I put over the screws so I didn’t have to struggle screwing down all that distance. 

It turned out well & Im hoping this ends my overheating charge cord/socket situation.
 

Part of yesterday’s civil unrest in Los Angeles occurred in the area that Hollywood Electrics is located (& also my 95 yr old Aunt).

Anyone know how the store faired with all the looting?