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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Sparkymoto on February 16, 2017, 08:24:30 AM
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I have a 2016 FXS which I have been adjusting to my riding needs. In my case this means dual use with combined riding in grass/wood lands and asphalt.
Understand this is not a toy, but it is a working piece of equipment used daily in running a ranch. As such it is a tool used for many task and that meant I had to touch down flat footed any time and any place I stopped. This was my need and the reason for the mods.
Tires have been changed to Conti Escapes.
Forks raised by 2 inches in the triple clamps.
Rear shock is one of two brands. The first is a Ikon "special" made for me and a spring for my weight. https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-low-shock-absorber (https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-low-shock-absorber)
The second shock is the original Showa heavily modified with a new spring sleeve machined and installed after a 2 inch lowering kit.
JB Covington, Vendor Rear OEM Shock Mods. Reports:
"Crude math suggest the stock spring is around 7.5kg/mm
The stock spring / shock design features a large of amount of preload on the spring, even in the "softest" preload setting.
The custom shock spacer features 3mm of preload on the stock spring with the shortened shock.
The 40mm Showa Shock with 14m shock body features a low speed compression adjuster that functions on rod charge, a rebound adjuster that functions off piston bypass bleed, and frictionless nitrogen bladder design."
The seat is thinned down to reduce the ride height by 2 inchs.
As to the original suspension design of the FXS, It could be better. Understand that I have raced GP, MX, Cow Trails, Woods and some of that riding was on an OSSA Pioneer, Cushman, Kawasakis and others.
I do not understand why ZERO did not hire a suspension designer that comprehended the term SUSPENSION. As stock the 8 plus inches of rear travel on a 290 lb Bike that comes with a spring so stiff that a rider of 160 pounds cannot adjust sag is a waste of air.
The ride height/seat height is currently at 30 inches, the rear sag is at 1/2 of an inch and a easy bounce of my rear will move it down a bit more.
After 9 months I am now pleasantly surprised each time I ride this FXS and I would be happy to talk to ZERO on what real bikes should do.
The FXS is a Great Bike and needs some simple intelligent changes to provide a more enjoyable ride.
Pictures, Specs, Parts Providers and other information if any want to take a look at these changes.
Vendors
Seat Mods
jgeraurd@yahoo.com
Josh Geraud
MX Seat Pro
3502 Temescal Ave
NORCO, CA 92860
US
9096450834
Rear OEM Shock Mods
jbi@ridejbi.com
JB Covington
RideJBI.com
@RideJBI
480.269.5585
IKON Aftermarket Shock
Nils Menten
Ikon Shocks USA
nils@ikonshocksusa.com
www.ikonshocksusa.com (http://www.ikonshocksusa.com)
For those who would like to learn more about suspension and real world handling then read these books.
Motorbike Suspensions: Modern Design and Optimisation
Dario Croccolo, Massimiliano de Agostinis
"Book Description: Language: English . Although they may look like simple components, the motorbike fork plays a critical role in the overall dynamic behaviour of motorcycles. It must provide appropriate stiffness characteristics, damping capabilities and the lowest sliding friction values in order to guarantee as much performance, safety and comfort as possible to the rider. Front Motorbike Suspensions addresses the fundamental aspects of the structural design of a motorbike fork. Utilizing the authors many years of experience in this industrial research topic, Motorbike Suspensions provides useful design rules and applied mechanical design theories to optimize the shape of motorbike suspension. Overall structural considerations are explored alongside specific aspects including how bolted and adhesive bonded joints design can be applied to these components. RD designers in the motorcycle industry who would like to improve their knowledge about the structural design of motorbike suspension will find Motorbike Suspension a concise and coherent guide to this specific feature. Whereas, undergraduates and graduates in industrial engineering matters may use this as a case study for an interesting application of the theories learned from machine design courses."
Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible
Thede, Paul; Parks, Lee
Based on Paul Thede’s wildly popular Race Tech Suspension Seminars taught around the world, this step-by-step guide shows anyone how to make their bike, or their kid’s, handle like a pro’s. The three forces of suspension; testing procedures; even the black art of chassis geometry: Thede explains it all. The book provides step-by-step photos of suspension disassembly and assembly as well as detailed troubleshooting guides for dirt, street, and supermoto–promising a solution to virtually any handling problem.
About the Authors:
Paul Thede is widely considered the ultimate motorcycle suspension guru. He is the owner and chief engineer of Race Tech, the largest motorcycle suspension modifier in the world.
Lee Parks is the author of the best-selling riding skills book Total Control. Based on his internationally renowned Total Control Advanced Riding Clinics, Total Control is considered by many to be the riding skills bible. Parks formerly edited Motorcycle Consumer News, Motorcycle Product News, and Motorcyclist magazines. He is also the owner of Lee Parks Design, a motorcycle glove and apparel manufacturer in Apple Valley, CA. leeparksdesign.com
racetech.com
High Performance Riding: Street Techniques for Total Control
Lee Parks
"Note from Sparkymoto: A couple of chapters are about suspension."
Synopsis: Today's super high-performance bikes are the most potent vehicles ever sold to the public and they demand advanced riding skills. This is the perfect book for riders who want to take their street riding skills to a higher level. Total Control explains the ins and outs of high-performance street riding. Lee Parks, one of the most accomplished riders, racers, authors and instructors in the world, helps riders master the awe-inspiring performance potential of modern motorcycles.This book gives riders everything they need to develop the techniques and survival skills necessary to become a proficient, accomplished, and safer street rider. High quality photos, detailed instructions, and professional diagrams highlight the intricacies and proper techniques of street riding. Readers will come away with a better understanding of everything from braking and cornering to proper throttle control, resulting in a more exciting yet safer ride.
About the Author:
Lee Parks has been racing for over 16 years, and he won the 2001 G.M.D. Computrack National Endurance Series Championship in the Lightweight class. He also finished 2nd in the 1994 AMA 125GP national championship in its exhibition year. He spent five years as the editor and chief test rider of Motorcycle Consumer News where he road tested every new street motorcycle available in the U.S. and became one of the top performance-testing journalists in the world. He is based in Victorville, CA.
A $ spent on these books is worth thousands spent by mistake on the wrong parts later.
Remember, only make one change at a time and be able to back track easily.
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There's a page of the unofficial Zero wiki where I've been vaguely collecting bike fit adjustment options:
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Ergonomics (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Ergonomics)
Elaborating on any of these things you did for others would be welcome (either here or on the wiki), but the feedback already makes sense and in any case I'll get around to incorporating it.
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Thanks, I have a slew of pictures so I will thin them out and post later.
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EDIT: We are winding down operations 3/2021. You will need to work with another Ikiin dealer to order these shocks.
Best,
Nils Menten
Greetings,
My name is Nils Menten and I am the head cheese at Ikon Shocks USA. We did work with sparkymoto to design and build a shock for his Zero, for which he provided very valuable information that made that possible. Many thanks to you Sparky, and we're glad it's working well for you.
We can provide that shock in either standard height, or lowered 2 inches as we did for sparkymoto, and custom springs are as always provided at no additional charge if needed. Lead time of roughly 2 weeks should be anticipated. That is our top of the line aluminum-bodied gas charged shock, with screw-thread preload adjusters, and 4-position damping adjustment.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6LzqRbg/0/L/i-6LzqRbg-L.jpg) (https://noblehops.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/RestoCycle/Ikon-Shocks-USA/n-JqVPDg/i-6LzqRbg/A)
Two models are now listed for purchase on our website: The standard length shock:
https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-shock-absorber (https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-shock-absorber)
...and the lowering version:
https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-low-shock-absorber (https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/products/3610-zero-low-shock-absorber)
Please note that this product is so new we have not had a chance to research applicability on other models of Zero motorcycles, but it is quite likely that it will fit a wider range of models and years than we have indicated at the moment. Your expertise in this respect would be most welcome.
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Great to see aftermarket vendors getting involved!
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Lowered and with a Fairing.
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Here is one of the shocks I am testing. It is the IKON and has a lot of adjustment.
The reworked OEM is a good choice but is limited by no adjustment and a too heavy spring, but cost is something to consider so it just depends on what your needs are.
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Here is a box stock FXS, note the seat contour and the tail piece height.
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Vendors
Seat Mods
jgeraurd@yahoo.com
Josh Geraud
MX Seat Pro
3502 Temescal Ave
NORCO, CA 92860
US
9096450834
Rear OEM Shock Mods
jbi@ridejbi.com
JB Covington
RideJBI.com
@RideJBI
480.269.5585
IKON Aftermarket Shock
Nils Menten
Ikon Shocks USA
nils@ikonshocksusa.com
www.ikonshocksusa.com (http://www.ikonshocksusa.com)
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[quote author=BrianTRice link=topic=6640.msg52966#msg52966 date=1487212221]
There's a page of the unofficial Zero wiki where I've been vaguely collecting bike fit adjustment options:
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Ergonomics (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Ergonomics)
Elaborating on any of these things you did for others would be welcome (either here or on the wiki), but the feedback already makes sense and in any case I'll get around to incorporating it.
[/quote]
Thanks, I'll take you up on the offer, I have more to test and review. Stay Tuned.
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Below is the before and after of the seat transformation. IMHO there is still plenty pf padding because the seat pan is flat and very stable. While pushing down with my thumb for all I'm worth I was not able to bottom out my thumb. I now like this seat better because it is flat and allows more contact with the sides of the seat and the frame rails.
A very nice job by:
jgeraurd@yahoo.com
Josh Geraud
MX Seat Pro
3502 Temescal Ave
NORCO, CA 92860
US
9096450834
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Hello,
Nice work. I would be glad to make the same transformations to my bike (lowering the seat, dual tires, windshield).
Conti Escape does not seem to be available for 17" front wheels.
Have you changed the front rim?
Which size of tires do you use?
Thanks.
Gerard (from France)
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Hello,
Nice work. I would be glad to make the same transformations to my bike (lowering the seat, dual tires, windshield).
Conti Escape does not seem to be available for 17" front wheels.
Have you changed the front rim?
Which size of tires do you use?
Thanks.
Gerard (from France)
Thank you.
A little background on this purchase is that I had been watching the breed of Electro Bikes and when the 2016 FXS came out I had a few changes in mind. So right off the bat I knew the tires would need to be changed.
I went by the dealer http://www.eurosportcycle.com/ (http://www.eurosportcycle.com/) and spoke with Tony. After moving to the tire rack we came to the decision on the Conti. Since the main concerns would be tire clearance and aspect ratio we narrowed the choices. No need to change rims when you figure out to do so would change the stance of the FXS. So a similar if different aspect ratio was purchased. We knew the ride height would increase but changing one thing at a time was my plan any way.
A deal was struck and upon delivery of the FXS the Contis were in place. Ride height was now at 34 inches until we lowered the front by an inch by upping the forks in the triple clamps. Ride height was a bit high but safe for Road use.
As they say, back at the Ranch was a different matter. Our land is rough and tumbled, small ravines, cow trials and rocks are the main obstacles. First in order was to install the Crash Bars, designed for the COP BIKES. Knowing I would drop the FXS sooner than later I practiced such an event and the Crash bars proved their worth.
The next step was the lowering, I did a number of things, one at a time, talked to a lot of locals as well as Vendors on the web. The rest is history and what I have now is pretty much what I need.
Back to the tires, Front is a 120/90-17 64S, Rear is a 140/80-17 69H. I have Tony at http://www.eurosportcycle.com/ (http://www.eurosportcycle.com/) to thank for picking the tires and the size. I too scrubbed the w.w.w. to see what was around and I must say what is on the bike work very well in the 3 surfaces I ride.
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Here are a few pics of jbi@ridejbi.com's work.
The shock was rebuilt with a 2 inch reduction in ride height. A machinist then whittled out a perfect replacement for the OEM adjustable spring perch. This reduced tension even though the OEM shock now had a preload from the reduction in height rebuild of the shock.
Great people out there to help us, you just gotta look.
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And another shock pic.
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If you go in the rough then you and the Bike will like these.
Hand Guards
Drop Bars/Brush Guards/Crash Bars
Conti Escape Tires
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_18&products_id=220 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_18&products_id=220)
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This was installed to allow the use of a SLIME Tire inflation kit.
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_5&products_id=143 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_5&products_id=143)
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@Sparkymoto : Thanks for the details
I also have installed the hand guards (they have been useful!), the 12V Accessory Socket Kit, and also the Top Box Rack Kit.
Concerning the front wheel :
- The original tire is Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 110/70 17 54 H. That gives a diameter of 58.6 cm.
- The Continental TKC 70 exists in front tire 120/70 17 58 W. That gives a diameter of 60.0 cm.
- Your Conti Escape exists in rear tire only, and 120/90 17 64 S. That gives a diameter of 64.8 cm.
I attach a file with some links and the diameter calculation.
I think that I would preferably use the Continental TKC 70, since it is a "front tire", and has a diameter much closer to the original tires.
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@Sparkymoto : Thanks for the details
I also have installed the hand guards (they have been useful!), the 12V Accessory Socket Kit, and also the Top Box Rack Kit.
Concerning the front wheel :
- The original tire is Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 110/70 17 54 H. That gives a diameter of 58.6 cm.
- The Continental TKC 70 exists in front tire 120/70 17 58 W. That gives a diameter of 60.0 cm.
- Your Conti Escape exists in rear tire only, and 120/90 17 64 S. That gives a diameter of 64.8 cm.
I attach a file with some links and the diameter calculation.
I think that I would preferably use the Continental TKC 70, since it is a "front tire", and has a diameter much closer to the original tires.
I read your text and assume you have a preference for Continental TKC 70. Other than the similar circumference to the OEM tire the use of the TKC with the Escape is asking for unusual handling. I prefer the Escapes and matched them to the OEM rim size and my planned percentage of ride time on different surfaces.
Mixing tread design and tire types could be more damaging than a concern about circumferential difference by a small percentage. The TKC is rated for a a larger percentage of Dirt time.
The different aspect ratio was selected because it delivers a taller side wall and important to me since the rims are cast and not spokes. Volume with the taller side wall allows me a bit of room to lower the air pressure and have a softer ride in the dirt without compromising the cast rims ability to take abuse. The SLIME kit rides with, it is a simple exercise to air up when I leave the dirt.
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Mixing tread design and tire types could be more damaging than a concern about circumferential difference by a small percentage. The TKC is rated for a a larger percentage of Dirt time.
Do not worry, I will not mix the tire types. The Continental TKC 70 exists in rear tire also. I will probably use size 130/80-17
http://www.continental-tires.com/motorcycle/tires/motorcycle-tires/off-road-enduro/tkc-70 (http://www.continental-tires.com/motorcycle/tires/motorcycle-tires/off-road-enduro/tkc-70)
I do not think that the TKC70 is rated for a larger percentage of dirt time than the Escape. Continental says: "TKC 70 is positioned for light to medium off-road use with extraordinary street performance".
The different aspect ratio was selected because it delivers a taller side wall and important to me since the rims are cast and not spokes. Volume with the taller side wall allows me a bit of room to lower the air pressure and have a softer ride in the dirt without compromising the cast rims ability to take abuse. The SLIME kit rides with, it is a simple exercise to air up when I leave the dirt.
OK, I understand. We do not have the same use of our FXS in mind. I just would like to occasionally ride in the dirt (with minimal changes to my bike). And you want to be able to ride with bigger tires and low pressure.
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Mixing tread design and tire types could be more damaging than a concern about circumferential difference by a small percentage. The TKC is rated for a a larger percentage of Dirt time.
Do not worry, I will not mix the tire types. The Continental TKC 70 exists in rear tire also. I will probably use size 130/80-17
http://www.continental-tires.com/motorcycle/tires/motorcycle-tires/off-road-enduro/tkc-70 (http://www.continental-tires.com/motorcycle/tires/motorcycle-tires/off-road-enduro/tkc-70)
I do not think that the TKC70 is rated for a larger percentage of dirt time than the Escape. Continental says: "TKC 70 is positioned for light to medium off-road use with extraordinary street performance".
The different aspect ratio was selected because it delivers a taller side wall and important to me since the rims are cast and not spokes. Volume with the taller side wall allows me a bit of room to lower the air pressure and have a softer ride in the dirt without compromising the cast rims ability to take abuse. The SLIME kit rides with, it is a simple exercise to air up when I leave the dirt.
OK, I understand. We do not have the same use of our FXS in mind. I just would like to occasionally ride in the dirt (with minimal changes to my bike). And you want to be able to ride with bigger tires and low pressure.
From Cycle World http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/08/18/continental-tkc-70-adventure-bike-motorcycle-tire-review (http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/08/18/continental-tkc-70-adventure-bike-motorcycle-tire-review)
"For the vast majority of off-highway travel, the TKC 70s are a perfect compromise for heavy ADV bikes that will spend more time on road than off. They offer far superior dirt grip than the TrailAttack2 while offering very similar traction on the road. Unless your route includes sand, mud, or very soft and/or rocky terrain, the TKC 70 is a wise choice because it’s designed to last a lot longer than a knobby."
Different strokes.
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Thanks. This is an interesting review about the Continental TKC 70. It seems to perfectly match the use I plan to do with the bike.
I would like to lower the bike a little bit, just by changing the suspension settings, and perhaps raising the fork a little bit. But if I do that, it seems that I will have to shorten the side stand, and I do not want to damage my bike. Did you get this problem?
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Thanks. This is an interesting review about the Continental TKC 70. It seems to perfectly match the use I plan to do with the bike.
I would like to lower the bike a little bit, just by changing the suspension settings, and perhaps raising the fork a little bit. But if I do that, it seems that I will have to shorten the side stand, and I do not want to damage my bike. Did you get this problem?
So far I have left the side stand alone, it would be nice if it was maybe 1 inch shorter when parked on asphalt for it doesn't have the lean I would like. But then again in the dirt it is easy to find a depression. I left the side stand alone for now but plan on checking the ZERO line for a shorter stand on one of the other bikes. If needed I will cut off the stand and re-weld the base.
I'll post another picture of my side stand landing pad on a string. The FXS also serves as a "look out" when I need a rest break or some time to stop and observe my stock, "picture a horse and rider". So I have the landing pad in the tank bag with a Kevlar string attached to a tie point inside the tank bag. It is simple and quick to retrieve the landing pad and be gone. It takes longer to type it than it does to do it and you do not even have to get off the bike.
Here is another short review:
Continental Rear TKC 70 130/80-17 Blackwall Tire - 2402470000
https://www.denniskirk.com/continental/rear-tkc-70-130-80-17-blackwall-tire-2402470000.p643738.prd/643738.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/continental/rear-tkc-70-130-80-17-blackwall-tire-2402470000.p643738.prd/643738.sku)
TKC 70 combines the best of the TKC 80 off-road tire and ContiTrailAttack 2 on-road Adventure tire
Brand new Conti-tire with rugged off-road capability and a balanced street performance
TKC 70 is positioned for 60 percent on-road and 40 percent off-road use
Unique tread block pattern makes the TKC 70 quiet and stable on the road while still providing good off-road capability
Agile on streets and safe on gravel roads
MultiGrip: Continentals own semi-dual compound technology allows different levels of hardness on the central tread and shoulder area (more mileage and improved grip)
RainGrip: New compounding with outstanding grip in wet weather conditions and very short warm-up phase"
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OK. Thank you.
I do not know how to ask ZERO if they have a shorter side stand.
If you get this information in the future, I am greatly interested !
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OK. Thank you.
I do not know how to ask ZERO if they have a shorter side stand.
If you get this information in the future, I am greatly interested !
Will Do.
Sparkymoto
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ZERO Contact information.
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/contact.php (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/contact.php)
Call us
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The FX side stand (Zero p/n 20-05662 03) is 15.0" / 380mm long from pivot-pin center to tip of foot.
The DS side stand (Zero p/n 20-05661 03) is 10.8" / 275mm (pivot ctr - foot tip).
Both kickstands are identical from the spring screw up to the pivot, and should interchange.
There's also a short kickstand for the S and SR (20-05660 03). It uses the same pivot pin & spring as the other two, and is surely shorter than 10.8".
Ray
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The FX side stand (Zero p/n 20-05662 03) is 15.0" / 380mm long from pivot-pin center to tip of foot.
The DS side stand (Zero p/n 20-05661 03) is 10.8" / 275mm (pivot ctr - foot tip).
Both kickstands are identical from the spring screw up to the pivot, and should interchange.
There's also a short kickstand for the S and SR (20-05660 03). It uses the same pivot pin & spring as the other two, and is surely shorter than 10.8".
Ray
Thanks Ray.
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I've made a kickstand section for the wiki manual based on Ray's comments and my own experience replacing a kickstand once.
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Kickstand (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Kickstand)
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I have measured the side stand of my FXS 2016. It is about 300mm from the ground to the rotation axis, see the joined pictures.
From previous message from rayivers, the DS side stand should be about 1 inch shorter :
"the DS side stand (Zero p/n 20-05661 03) is 10.8" / 275mm (pivot ctr - foot tip)"
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It looks like the FXS uses a shorter kickstand than the FX. Measured from the pivot center to the rear of the foot as in the previous post, the FX kickstand is 13.5" / 343mm long.
Ray
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Those 21 inch front tires will do that for you.
I made contact with Zero HQ, PARTS, looking at a like ZERO, lower, fat tires, different side stand, etc and may be able provide some information.
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The FX and the FXS have the same frame and apparently the same seat.
FX 2016 seat height : 881 mm
FXS 2016 seat height : 836 mm
Difference in seat height: 881 - 836 = 45 mm
Difference in side stands: 343 - 300 = 43 mm : that is coherent !
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The FX and the FXS have the same frame and apparently the same seat.
FX 2016 seat height : 881 mm
FXS 2016 seat height : 836 mm
Difference in seat height: 881 - 836 = 45 mm
Difference in side stands: 343 - 300 = 43 mm : that is coherent !
We can use this information of seat height v kick stand length to extrapolate a given kick stand to be used to fit a changed seat height if you can add in the cause of the change. Meaning cutting down just the seat has no effect on a need for a reduced kick stand but shock and seat height is the key to using this information. Limited for the moment to two models above but more input from forum members may provide us with a formula for all the Zero Models.
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So then, the FXS shock is shorter than the FX shock ? Would this be a good way to lower the FX ?
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So then, the FXS shock is shorter than the FX shock ? Would this be a good way to lower the FX ?
The FX has taller tires, my experience is that the OEM shock needs a different spring but yes lowering the shock or using an aftermarket shock is the first step. Part of the process is having a system where you can adjust SAG to your body weight. If you cannot adjust SAG then you need to find out why.
http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm (http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm)
Suspension and Springs - Sag
What's all this ruckus about suspension these days? It seems everyone is clued in that suspension setup can be a key to riding fast and safely, but how do you do it? No matter what shock or fork you have, they all require proper adjustment to work to their maximum potential. Suspension tuning isn't rocket science, and if you follow step-by-step procedures you can make remarkable improvements in your bike's handling characteristics.
The first step to setting up any bike is to set the spring sag and determine if you have the correct-rate springs. Spring sag is the amount the springs compress between fully topped out and fully loaded with the rider on board in riding position. It is also referred to as static ride height or static sag. My company, Race Tech, 951.279.6655 has an advanced method of checking spring sag that I'll describe.
If you've ever measured sag before, you may have noticed that if you check it three or four times, you can get three or four times, you can get three or four different numbers without changed anything. We'll tell you why this occurs and how to handle it.
REAR END
Step 1: Extend the suspension completely by getting the wheel off the ground. It helps to have a few friends around. On bikes with sidestands the bike can usually be carefully rocked up on the stand to unload the suspension. Most race stands will not work because the suspension will still be loaded by resting on the swingarm rather than the wheel. Measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis (metric figures are easiest and more precise; Figure 1). Mark this reference point because you'll need to refer to it again. This measurement is L1. If the measurement is not exactly vertical the sag numbers will be inaccurate (too low).
Step 2: Take the bike off the stand and put the rider on board in riding position. Have a third person balance the bike from the front. If accuracy is important to you, you must take friction of the linkage into account. This is where our procedure is different: We take two additional measurements. First, push down on the rear end about 25mm (1") and let it extend very slowly.
Where it stops, measure the distance between the axle and the mark on chassis again. If there were no drag in the linkage the bike would come up a little further. It's important that you do not bounce! This measurement is L2.
Step 3: Have your assistant lift up on the rear of the bike about 25mm and let it down very slowly. Where it stops, measure it. If there were no drag it would drop a little further. Remember, don't bounce! This measurement it L3.
Step 4: The spring sag is in the middle of these two measurements. In fact, if there were no drag in the linkage, L2 and L3 would be the same. To get the actual sag figure you find the midpoint by averaging the two numbers and subtracting them from the fully extended measurement L1: static spring sag = L1 -[(L2 + L3) / 2].
Step 5: Adjust the preload with whatever method applies to your bike. Spring collars are common, and some benefit from the use of special tools. In a pinch you can use a blunt chisel to unlock the collars and turn the main adjusting collar. If you have too much sag you need more preload; if you have too little sag you need less preload. For road race bikes, rear sag is typically 25 to 30mm. Street riders usually use 30 to 35mm. Bikes set up for the track are compromise when ridden on the street. The firmer settings commonly used on the tract are generally not recommended (or desirable) for road work.
You might notice the Sag Master measuring tool (available from Race Tech) in the pictures. It's a special tool made to assist you in measuring sag by allowing you to read sag directly without subtracting. It can also be used as a standard tape measure.
Measuring front-end sag is very similar to the rear. However, it' much more critical to take seal drag into account on the front end because it is more pronounced.
FRONT END
Step 1: Extend the fork completely and measure from the wiper (the dust seal atop the slider) to the bottom of the triple clamp (or lower fork casting on inverted forks; Figure 2). This measurement is L1.
Step 2: Take the bike off the sidestand, and put the rider on board in riding position. Get and assistant to balance the bike from the rear, then push down on the front end and let it extend very slowly.
Picture
Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp again. Do not bounce. This measurement is L2.
Step 3: Lift up on the front end and let it drop very slowly. Where it stops, measure again. Don't bounce. This measurement is L3. Once again, L2 and L3 are different due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings, which is particularly high for telescopic front ends.
Step 4: Just as with the front, halfway between L2 and L3 is where the sag would be with no drag or stiction. Therefore L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true spring sag: static spring sag = L1 - [l2 + l3) / 2].
Step 5: To adjust sag use the preload adjusters, if available, or vary the length of the preload spaces inside the fork.
Street bikes run between 25 and 33 percent of their total travel, which equates to 30 to 35mm. Roadrace bikes usually run between 25 and 30mm.
This method of checking sag and taking stiction into account also allows you to check the drag of the linkage and seals. It follows that the greater the difference between the measurements (pushing down and pulling up), the worse the stiction. A good linkage (rear sag) has less than 3mm (0.12") difference, and a bad one has more than 10mm (0.39"). Good forks have less than 15mm difference, and we've seen forks with more than 50mm. (Gee, I wonder why they're harsh?)
It's important to stress that there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with less or more sag than these guidelines, great. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection and rider weight and riding preference.
Using different sag front and rear will have huge effect on steering characteristics. More sag on the front or less sag on the rear will make the bike turn more slowly. Increasing sag will also decrease bottoming resistance, though spring rate has a bigger effect than sag. Racers often use less sag to keep the bike clearance, and since roadraces work greater than we see on the street, they require a stiffer setup. Of course, setting spring sag is only first step of dialing in your suspension, so stay tuned for future articles on spring rates and damping.
-Paul Thede
Magazine: Sport Rider
Issue : August 1995
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Ordered a Kick Stand from my Dealer to be drop shipped. Just received an e mail from FedEx to expect to see it soon.
I ordered the short one as used on the model S.
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Kick Stand Pad on a string.
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A handy front brake parking answer.
And yes I have one and it stays on the right.
http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=205 (http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=205)
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My 2013 FX is set up as an FXs. S Front end. S wheels, S brakes and Fox Shock
The bike always stood almost upright. When the factory FXs came out, I got an
FXs side stand from Harlan at Hollywood Electrics. Worked perfectly.
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Okay that is one way to keep a kickstand pad around I had not considered! I throw mine in a tank bag with my tools.
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My 2013 FX is set up as an FXs. S Front end. S wheels, S brakes and Fox Shock
The bike always stood almost upright. When the factory FXs came out, I got an
FXs side stand from Harlan at Hollywood Electrics. Worked perfectly.
As my FXS sets now, with the lowered shock, it too is too upright and I have to pull it over a bit to have some lean. The S side stand may be too short but I'll know soon.
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Here is some more suspension information/riding information that is in the form of FAQ from RACE TECH.
http://racetech.com/page/id/30 (http://racetech.com/page/id/30)
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Wouldn't you know?
FedEx has misplaced my reduced length Kick Stand Shipment!
Delivery was set for Saturday.
Zero shipped promptly, tracking shows it left Ca. No more information except "Delivery Pending".
Color that to "Package location unknown at this time".
Maybe it will be found and delivered today.
But that is the good thing about a "Drop Shipment" and tracking a shipment.
Dealer did their part.
Zero did their part.
FedEx dropped the ball.
Update> Monday @ 1715, shipment will be delivered tomorrow. Hoorah!
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Short Kick Stand delivered.
Your package has been delivered
Ship date:
Wed, 3/8/2017
Zero Motorcycles Inc.
Scotts Valley, CA
US
Delivered
Delivery date:
Tue, 3/14/2017 9:29 am
6 days, almost as fast as the Pony Express!
This is a beaut! It has a different foot and will look good tucked in, after I paint it black.
When it warms up some I'll take pictures, before, during and after the install.
Sparky
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OK, that didn't fly!
I will need to use the kick stand (Zero p/n 20-05661 03) is 10.8" / 275mm (pivot ctr - foot tip).
Easy job if you have the tools.
Brass bushings from the old kick stand to the new are a push fit. Kick stand heavy spring (there are two springs, a heavy and a light spring) must be attached to the kick stand and then with the stand retracted use the proper tool to slip the heavy spring on it's perch.
As shown below, a standard drum break tool works just fine. Be sure and purchase the one with the dog leg and the slot to hook over the spring perch.
Time to reorder!
Pictures tomorrow, other work to do now, but pictures tell the tale of too short.
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Old trick. With the spring extended, put washers or nickels between the coils. Then when the stand is retracted, it just comes right off as the coils are kept expanded by the washers or nickels.
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Old trick. With the spring extended, put washers or nickels between the coils. Then when the stand is retracted, it just comes right off as the coils are kept expanded by the washers or nickels.
I've updated the kickstand replacement procedure with the drum brake spring pliers tool recommendation. The trick you've mentioned is already there, roughly.
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Kickstand (http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Kickstand)
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As seems to be usual, FedEx has again missed a shipment delivery date. Yes I know the problem is with the map directions but all the poor driver has to do is read the address on the mailbox. He passed twice but so believed his voice from the web that he never looked!
I will be out of pocket for a while so I will return to this post when I receive the "Late" delivery, say about 10 days.
With the spare kickstands I will now be able to use the OEM tires should I see the need. Nothing lost just time.
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The S/SR is shorter than the DS/DSR, the 20-05660 03 is 8.75 inches from the center line of the pin to the heel of the foot. The foot is rotated 90 degrees CCW.
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Parts in and 'll post pictures later.
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Update on my status: I've completed the purchase of a 2017 DS from my local dealer. Simultaneously, I purchased the lowered spring from Hollywood Electric. Apparently, they have a suspension expert that takes an OEM DS shock/spring and reworks it such that its 1.5" lower. Thats underway now. Then it will be shipped to my dealer, who will install it for me (negotiated as part of my purchase). I live beyond range of the bike, so they will then meet me halfway for delivery. I'm hopeful it will be by the end of next week, but no details yet. In the meantime, I've written the check, had it cashed, and am now sitting quasi-patiently on my hands....
My question pertinent to this thread is, will the OEM DS kickstand still work appropriately on the bike after the lowered shock has been installed? Should I have the dealer do something to adjust it? Do I need to buy an S/SR OEM kickstand? Something else?
Thx