ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Does anyone have the specs for the rear brake disc for a '22 Ribelle besides the diameter of 240 mm?

It should be an OEM Brembo disc, but in the Brembo catalogue I cannot find anything. Is there the possibility to order somewhere else bsides via my Energica dealer?

Thanks for your input!

This post is about how I changed the front sprocket of my Ribelle. Most of this information was already posted somewhere, but it's hard to find, so I wanted to get all the relevant infos summarized in one go.

Looking at the number of teeth in front and the back, the front sprocket turn nearly three times more often than the back, so it is logically that it wears down much quicker.
In my case the sprocket was changed at 22,000 km and I did it now at 37,000 km because it already was visibly worn. It propably would have been good for another few thousand km, but then the chain would have been toast as well.

Sprocket Types
The originally mounted sprocket was a PBR 2078. For a Ribelle RS it needs to come with 15 teeth, for non-RS it's 16 teeth.
Alternatives are AFAM 61801 and JT Sprockets JTF704.
This time I chose a rubber cushioned one made by Esjot, a German manufacturer, but a similar one is apparently offered by JT as well.
Those sprockets are the same for a Aprilia 1100 Tuono, in case you want to look for yourself. Cost are about 20 - 40 €.

What To Buy
I decided to renew everything and bought the stuff via ebay.
The sprocket is fixed with a special shaft nut made by Swedish company SKM. The type is a KM5. Cost were 9 €.
A star-shaped locking washer is fixing the nut. The manufacturer recommends to change this every time together with the sprocket. Cost were around 1 €.
For installation, you need a special nut. I got mine for 17 €.

What Else You Should Know
I will spare you the gruesome details. All in all it took me 2 hours including cleaning (good opportunity to remove all the greasy dirt from that place) and re-aligning the chain after the job is done. The latter was necessary because the old sprocket was already worn.
I did not took out the back wheel, just drew out the axle after getting the brake caliper to the side. When the chain adjustor blocks are removed, the wheel can be pushed forward enough to allow the chain to be loose enough that the sprocket can be got out.
For removing and reinstalling the shaft nut I blocked the wheel with a 50 mm diameter steel pipe which I had cladded with duct tape to protect the paint on the wheel from being scratched.
Note that the shaft nut is asymmetrical. The chamfered side must point to the gear side.

Tightening torque for the shaft nut is a whopping 190 Nm. As far as I know, the same as for a Panigale V4.

So better be prepared! Take care that the bike is well fixed. If you are a 60 kg person you might better look for an additional lever for the torque wrench. You maybe are better off if an additional person holds the bike while you apply that torque.
Energica recommends to use green Locktite (high strength) for installation. Interestingly I found no traces of it when I removed the old screw. Nevertheless I used it now.
After tightening the nut, look which one of the 'wings' of the star-shaped locking washer is suited to be bend into one of the four grooves of the KM5 nut and bend it down into it using a small screwdriver and some light tapping with a hammer.

The Result
Now I have a brand new rubber cushioned front sprocket. Is there any difference to a normal sprocket? No.
The noise from the chain on the sprocket even got a tiny bit louder. That might be due to the fact that the chain is already 5,000 km 'old'. I will give it some time to 'settle', otherwise I will change the chain as well.
In the future I will probably renew the sprocket each time together with the chain.

For some time now I am looking for rear view mirrors to substitute the original ones which do not work well for me. In spite 18 months of tinkering I could not find a satisfying setting. The stems appear to me to be not long enough, so the rear view is very much limited. Besides that I would prefer mirrors which are spheric on the outer side to reduce the blind angle.

During my search I found the manufacturer who produces the Energica original mirrors. It's Italian company FAR. The price of the mirror there is quite lower (38 €) than if you purchase it at Energica (45 €). So in case you need a new one, here's the link to FAR website.
https://www.far-ecommerce.com/en/universal-handlebar/330-universal-handlebar-code-7449-sx.html

Currently I think I better go with bar end mirrors. What keeps me from buying is the fact that it makes the handlebar even wider and I already struggle to wiggle the bike out of the carport between car and doorpost.

Probably this will be an issue where opinions clash but maybe we can discuss this nevertheless and guys like me without much experience can learn something from that.

My question is, how to corner best with an EV bike with regen activated. In my view that should be (at least somewhat) different from handling an ICE bike.

In riding school I learned the basic (ICE) way is finish all speed reduction before entrance of the turn. While cornering hold the speed or slightly increase throttle and when you can see the end of the turn (if it was a blind turn) you can accelerate again.

As far as I understood, the more advanced technique is trail braking when you enter the turn with higher speed but with engaged front brake which is then released gradually. But that is not the same as entering the turn with working regen - that would be like trail braking with the rear brake.

I would like to hear how you people using the brake(s) and regen during cornering.

Last week I had the chance to buy a original Energica Tank Bag for small money because the guy who sold it had no use for it anymore. Knowing the RSP (over 300 €) I took immediately the opportunity (to have it not needing it is better than the other way round )

First impression: the bag is big. REALLY BIG!

It has an extension fold and according to Energica can hold 16 liters. Without the extension out I guess it carries about 12 liters. Probably this does not include the two small side bags (good for glasses, handkerchiefs, snacks...) and the flat top compartment with a transparent window (good for gloves, scarf, bible...).
Carried effortlessly my charging brick, rainjacket, extra set of gloves and some small stuff (all in the main compartment without the extension).
It has a carrying grip, comes with shoulder strap and a rain cover.

The bag is fixed by clamps (front) and a 'click'-fix (back) on a 'carpet' which in turn is helt by straps (front left & right) and a screwed down strap (tank backside under the seat). To a certain extend, the position of the bag can be adjusted back and forth. The 'carpet' is soft underneath and the straps are also designed to minimise chafing on the tank.
The fixings do not look much, but they hold at least to 180 km/h (testing to that speed that was enough for me ).

PRO's
-   Large bag.
-   High quality manufacturing (at least looks and feels that way). No cheapo stuff as far as I can tell. Should not damage the paint as everything looks properly covered with soft stuff.
-   Flat compartment on top with integrated velcroed compartment with transparent window maybe for GPS or phone.
-   Extension fold with zipper.
-   Easy to de-chlip from the holder/carpet. Can be carried by handgrip or with included shoulder straps.
-   Included high quality rain cover.
-   Installed and dismounted in two minutes with a 3 mm hex.
-   Will most probably not interfere with aerodynamics, i.e. no increased energy consumption.

CON'S
-   Large bag When all compartments are really filled to the max the view to the speedometer can be restricted, especially if you are smaller and the bag is positioned more to the front. I had some problems looking at my phone which is positioned in the vicinity of the bar holder. See pictures.
-   Even if not filled, the top compartment with transparent window is what feels like directly under your nose. For me in a position useless e.g. for a GPS or a phone with route finder. The velcroed compartment is too small for my phone (admittedly which is an iphone Plus).
-   The 'carpet' fixing straps flap around. See pic of the backside strap. For that money I would expect something like Kriega puts on their bags to keep the from flapping.
-   Destroys the sleek look of the bike (at least to my taste). See pictures.


SUMMARY
If you like tank bags, want large capacity, have money to spend and do not mind the looks, that bag is something for you. Be prepared to adjust your phone/GPS-holder for a better view. If you are a small person, that bag might sit too high (Ribelle).

For anymone interested in a racetrack rookie training, here's an overview about my experiences which might be insightful. Hopefully it helps to better understand what you are up to and to align expectations and real life.
I always was curious about racetrack driving, be it with my car or now with the Ribelle, but never managed to go for it until early this year when I booked a rookie training with an organizer which I thought had a good reputation (affiliated with a major German motorcycle news magazine). Cost was 450 Euros for one day with an instructor and 6 stints of 20 minutes in a group of five drivers. Location was the Bilster Berg racetrack, sometimes referred to as the 'small Nordschleife'.
Arriving at the racetrack I got the impression that nearly everyone except me had travelled there the evening before, bringing caravans, tents, bikes and equipment. So, while they had no problem orienting themselves, I had to ask for directions in what felt like total chaos. Naturally I was the only one with an electric bike there, and the technical guy who checked it, promptly told me his opinion (which wasn't positive).

•   Even if it was named rookie-training, there weren't too many actual rookies around. So I ended up as the only real one in a group of more experienced drivers.
•   Expecting the instructor to know how to induce a rookie to a track was wrong. First stint was like hell and I broke off after four rounds. It was totally overwhelming and looking back on this, I can be happy that nothing happened.
•   My fault was, trying to match the speed of the group at any cost. Should have slowed down until I had the feeling to be in control again, even it that would have meant to impose my speed on the rest of the group.
•   Another fault was to choose a racetrack with such serious topography. In hindsight I would say that the organiser wasn't right to offer a rookie training on this particular track.
•   Keeping close to each other regardless the speed was encouraged by the inctructor, which alone stressed me totally out in the beginning. I should have taped my mirrors. You better do not see how close the person behind you really is.
•   Having had some basic safety inductions in special training centers before, I did not expect so many other riders to be on the track simultaneously. It looked to me that organiser had put as much drivers on the track as possible to maximise profit. So I did not expect there were overtakings during the stints.
•   Naively not thinking of accidents, I did not expect that stints are interrupted or even cancelled because of crashes and was surprised that cancelled stints are not added later.
•   I expected quite high consumption of energy but that was wrong. A 20-minute stint with approx. 6 rounds was consuming maximum 11 % SOC.

Summarizing, it was not a positive experience which was at least partly my fault.

R&G offers an alternative to the OEM licence plate holder, but for the EGO.

AF1-Racing write on their website that the holder nevertheless might also fit an EsseEsse or Ribelle.
https://www.af1racing.com/rglp0333bk-energica-tail-tidy-license-plate-re-locator-for-energica-rglp0333bk

Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!

Hi guys,

As indicated in some of my posts, I am considering substituting some of the original fixings for something better protected against corrosion.

Looking at my bike's rear, the nuts fixing the sprocket to the wheel are an obvious point. Those are 5 flanged nuts size M10 with a 1.25 thread (NOT! 1.5).

Anyone here knowing, what tightening torque Energica recommends for these? The manual isn't helping here.

Tables in European standards tell me up to 57 Nm.