ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Here in Germany a company is trying to establish themself as something like a certifying body for used EV batteries. It's name is Aviloo Battery Diagnostics. They measure the charge performance and deduct from that the SOH.

Interesting. However, they only seem to offer their diagnostics for cars so far.
https://aviloo.com/battery-test.html

Nice, those look pretty decent.  My last bustoff the handle got smashed into the sand as the bike went over and it landed on it.  Being able to fold back is a really good feature but what about being smashed axially?  Might not do so well there.  Still though that'd be good when maneuvering in tight places, like the garage, lining bikes up and getting a wee bit close to a wall or another bike etc.

Thank you for that post.
Aaron

There are aftermarket brake levers available which have a joint. If the bike crashes, they flip up (no damage besides scratches).
They are adjustable in length as well - maybe something for you, @Aaron.

https://www.probrake.de/Brake-lever-TEC2-for-Energica-Motor-Ego-10

IM running about 29.5 in the back  that goes up to about 33 ish when track hot. I like it there, I dont see any problems with my rear end.
 It was recommended to try a bit lower, like 27 but it grows a bit much like 5 to 6 psi,  and I think is a bit squirrely in hard corners.
So, basically right there 29 to 30 is the sweet spot cold.  I get a nice even wear on the tire, it looks really good actually and they last a decent amount of time too.

Im running 31 to 32 in the front, it'll hit 36 ish in the front when hot.  You have to remember, when it comes time to shed speed, especially if you have to do so quickly, that battery is a LOT of weight transfer forward in a hurry, you want that front loaded up to hold it.  Not to mention if you are running a hard regen mode, you can probably easily transfer half your body weight or more to the handlebars as well, which will be picked up by the front.

Thank you for sharing this!
Looking at the numbers I am guessing these are for your EGO in racetrack setting. Surely, on the street with your Ribelle you choose a higher pressure?

I had a (street) one-on-one training last week and the instructor encouraged me to reduce the tire pressure from the 2.9 bar / 42 PSI (Energica spec).
Currently I am trying 2.7/39 rear and 2.5/36 front. Still running on the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III.

Especially the reduction in front tire pressure improved the handling of the bike so much!
The reduction on the rear tire feels a bit wobbly sometimes, especially when accelerating after the apex of the curve. IDK if this is a bad thing.

I DO need to add a disclaimer.  I still am not entirely happy with my front end handling.  I have shock / suspension work to do still.

The Ohlins have separate damping modules, compression on one fork and rebound on the other wondering (when worked hard) if steering head is at issue like triple-tree flex or head bearing preload.

Unlike BMW that used tapered roller bearing on steering head, I think Energica uses ball bearings?  If so, that's something to look at.

@Specter outstanding posts.  Wish I could track my Rebelle.  Amazing how much you learn from other riders on the track.  So much expertise concentrated in one spot!

Was out at my local track riding my 400 yesterday. 

Go pro footage:

The first update with the new app version takes a dealer, then we can do our own.

Just as I assumed. But did the update do anything useful?


-Don-  Reno, NV

IM running about 29.5 in the back  that goes up to about 33 ish when track hot. I like it there, I dont see any problems with my rear end.
 It was recommended to try a bit lower, like 27 but it grows a bit much like 5 to 6 psi,  and I think is a bit squirrely in hard corners.
So, basically right there 29 to 30 is the sweet spot cold.  I get a nice even wear on the tire, it looks really good actually and they last a decent amount of time too.

Im running 31 to 32 in the front, it'll hit 36 ish in the front when hot.  You have to remember, when it comes time to shed speed, especially if you have to do so quickly, that battery is a LOT of weight transfer forward in a hurry, you want that front loaded up to hold it.  Not to mention if you are running a hard regen mode, you can probably easily transfer half your body weight or more to the handlebars as well, which will be picked up by the front.

I typically am right around 170 to 175 Lbs, and throw on 24 lbs of leathers, armor, boots, helmet and there you are.  So you may need to adjust yours a bit if your numbers are off by say more than 10 to 15 lbs.

I DO need to add a disclaimer.  I still am not entirely happy with my front end handling.  I have shock / suspension work to do still.  Ive had a few pro's ride the bike (one of them the suspension expert) and we are in agreement, something is not right and we need to figure and fix it.  With that being said, eventually if we end up changing a spring, and shock loadings etc,  the pressures may change a bit.  But for now, this lets me run a respectable lap and do so safely.  Currently Im running Continental  Attack 2's  190/55 and 120?? whatever the front is.

Aaron

I actually JB Welded my levers back together when some thieves broke them off, was good enough for the couple of days it took to get them in.

@Stonewolf,  or just idling,  maintenance throttle or gliding down it's making noise, yah it's time to tighten.
BUT on the other hand, if you are at idle and you are walking the bike or going real slow and can feel the bump bump of the motor poles, then it's too tight, you over tightened it,  back it off a flat or 2.

Aaron