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[trikester]

Oops! I realized a couple of days ago that I need to add another switch to my "dash". This required making a new mounting plate for the low beam kill sw and the new sw to sit in.

When I was installing Zero's cable harness I checked to see that they had already put a shorting jumper on the kick stand sensor connector so that the motor would run without a kick stand sensor switch (I don't need no stinkin' kick stand!). However, I realized that I would need to have a "kick stand down" indication if I was going to program the ECO mode with my iPod, since it requires that (plus having the key on and the kill sw off).

I added a weather proof rocker sw (similar to what Zero uses for their ECO switch) to my "dash". But, since the kick stand sensor uses three wires I needed a SPDT switch. They use 5v, com (gnd), and signal connections. I didn't need a very noticeable switch since it would be in the "kick stand up" position most of the time. It also could be used as another theft deterrent.

I've attached the photo showing the current locations of all the switches now. The new sw is close to the center of the photo.

Wish i had a better way to label these switches 

Trikester

[hein]

Wish i had a better way to label these switches 

"Program"

[NoiseBoy]

You can get tapes for the dymo label printers that are black text on metallic silver. looks pretty good and a coat of laquer would protect it.

[trikester]

You can get tapes for the dymo label printers that are black text on metallic silver. looks pretty good and a coat of laquer would protect it.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have considered buying a Dymo label maker for a long time but never did. Maybe this is my "excuse" to get one. I'll look for the black on metallic lettering tape at the same time. I always coat my hand lettering with a clear coat but I didn't know if I could do that with Dymo labels. Glad to read that I can do that.

BTW - I was puzzled by Hein's reply until I figured out that he thought I was trying to think of a better word to use for the "stand" switch. I should have been more clear, but you got my meaning NoiseBoy, thanks.

Trikester

[NoiseBoy]

Hein has a point though.  'Program' would be better!

[trikester]

Cancel everything about the kick stand switch!

Zero eng said I can program the ECO in the MBB with the kick stand up. As I had recalled the app instructions said; "Kick Stand down, key on, kill switch off". Maybe they were just cautioning against the bike falling over while the owner is messing with the app. Apparently, the kick stand sensor isn't actually a controlling factor.

I have removed the switch, and cut the panel down narrower to just mounting the "Low Beam Enable" switch.

I now have a Dymo Label maker and will re-label this switch and the ECO switch. I will go with black on clear because Staples was out of black on silver. Since my mounting panels are unpainted metal the clear tape should work well. Silver would probably not have matched enough to disappear.

Trikester

[trikester]

Here's a photo of the Dymo labels for the switches. I used black on clear and then a clear coat on top. I also used the Dymo for some of the fuses (not shown).

Thanks NoiseBoy for the good tip! It looks a lot better than my hand squiggles.

Trikester

[ReverseTrike]

Hi Trikester,

I hope you get your battery pack so we can get a good read on your test drive. I am also working on designing my reversetrike and have tried to do the best to get all the weight and balance in place. As I am not an electrical engineer, I have tried my best to stick with the known Zero configuration for FX   I do not want to hijack your thread but would appreciate it if you can comment on my basic powertrain location and if extending the controls/display on the handle bar to the rear mounted powertrain will work by just adding an extension(74" as shown in the drawing) to the existing harness. The thought process is to keep all the HV stuff as is and also use the FX frame where I can to minimize machining. If you want me to take this offline and PM you please let me know.


Thanks.

[trikester]

I don't think there is a problem with extending the controls and display wires. You seem to have the high current wiring, batteries, and motor controller (Sevcon) clustered together which it should be. If you can maintain the stock length on the encoder cable from the motor to the controller, that is recommended. Zero engineering said they had noise pickup (causing motor dropouts) when they extended that particular wiring in one of their projects. They mentioned that they were able to solve the problem with reprogramming, however (I wouldn't know how to do that).

I'm hoping that I don't have wiring sensitivity problems when I finally get to run mine. I'm going to Utah for two weeks in Sept and with the new battery shipping date now in early September, I probably won't have time to test my trike before I go and have to wait until I get back to run it. 

Trikester

[ReverseTrike]

Thanks Trikester for the reply but I am confused regarding your comment about the encoder cable from motor to the controller. In the setup I have suggested that cable should be exactly where it is by default in the FX or not?

Is there anything else that I should be concerned about in my setup? I am sorry but I am not an electrical engineer and do not understand the complications involved so I am trying to do the minimal amount of changes I can to the FX powertrain. Also, I cant get the powertrain kit from Zero because I am an individual and not a company so I will have to get a FX and then use as much of the standard bike I can to get to where I want.

I do appreciate all your help and comments.

[trikester]

I didn't realize you were starting with an FX, I thought you had managed to get a Powertrain kit (somehow) and were building from scratch. Then I assume everything is stock except for the two cables you asked about (refer to my previous answer about those). So you should be OK in all areas then.

A big advantage to the way you are going is that you will have the full dash display. The Powertrain kit only comes with the MX dash which is very minimal (see my photos showing that). I don't know Zero's reason for that. You will also have the built-in charger. In my case I wouldn't have room for the built-in charger even if I wanted it.

Trikester

[ReverseTrike]

Thanks for the clarification. The reason for going with the FX Vs the MX was,
1. Comes with the DOT tires
2. Turn signal lights and switches in place  because the less I need to do any electrical the better it is for me 
3. High torque
4. Full Dash

The biggest advantage that I see for the MX is the horsepower. My trike will be about 600 lbs when all done but I am also considering a genset at the front in the nose which will make this weight go up 100+ lbs so I am torn between the added 10 hp of the MX. Being an aero engineer, I have a good hold on the aerodynamics and the trike will have at most 1/2 the drag of the current FX.

[trikester]

The trike was powered on for the first time with the new batteries and worked flawlessly, after an initial re-boot with the key switch. I was amazed with the power and acceleration and then I discovered that I had forgotten to plug in one of the batteries, so it was only running on half power! After connecting the other battery I felt like it could lift the front end if I gave it enough throttle.

So far no more re-boots have been necessary. Bluetooth is working also.

1st ride was 14.4 miles total pavement to the monthly VintageBikeOC meet and back (even though it wasn't vintage it got a lot of attention). Back in April I rode the trike there with it's ICE still powering it so people were surprised. It was a blast to ride compared to it's original gas powered state! There are other electric trikes but I wonder if this is the first dual-sport and aimed principally toward dirt riding?

It is now going to Utah with the FX and will see some dirt there for the first time as an electric. After the Utah rides I'll be posting ride data and ride photos of the FX and E-trike under a new thread.

See photo of its first roll-out from my shop and ready for the first ride.

Trikester

[emotofreak]

Love it!

[BSDThw]

Compliments for the go(o)d development,

It's good to know you got the batteries on time. Have a lot of fun riding at Utah!