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[remmie]

Alternatively, just don't connect the onboard charger at low SOC. That would reduce the charge power to 8 kW or 82 amps at 98 volt.
You will have to switch the bike on with the key but at home that won't be a problem

when you do it this way, isnt there a 1 hour timeout or something like that?

Could be, i don't know really.
But at 8000 watt charging an hour means 8kwh back in the batterypack, For my zf11.4 (effective kwhrs 10.4) this is about 80% SOC. For a 2016 zf13.0 plus powertank this is only about 60% though.

Otherwise just charge for 15 minutes without the onboard charger and then just plug it in. The voltage should have risen enough to decrease the amps enough so the total amps stay around 90 instead of 95.

[alexanderfoti]

If the charge fuse blows, does the whole bike die, or does it just kill the charging system?

I will get a large connection put in at home so I can test full charge capacity before potentially blowing a fuse out on the road.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

FYI, per http://diginow.it/super-charger-for-zero-motorcycle.php , the digiNow supercharger limits power through the aux charge port to 7.6kW just to avoid blowing that fuse. It does have a slow (~1hr?) setting that is effectively below 100A but I can't get anyone to put a number on that, or whoever knows the number isn't talking.

If the aux charge port fuse blows, the bike will still work and the onboard charger will charge, but the aux charge port will be disconnected.

[Erasmo]

I've had a different experience with that, after blowing the aux port the bike refused to move anymore but i could still charge with the onboard charger.

[alexanderfoti]

FYI, per http://diginow.it/super-charger-for-zero-motorcycle.php , the digiNow supercharger limits power through the aux charge port to 7.6kW just to avoid blowing that fuse. It does have a slow (~1hr?) setting that is effectively below 100A but I can't get anyone to put a number on that, or whoever knows the number isn't talking.

If the aux charge port fuse blows, the bike will still work and the onboard charger will charge, but the aux charge port will be disconnected.

Hmm just 400 watts difference with mine, close but should be OK.

I will do extensive testing at home so if the fuse pops there its OK.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I've had a different experience with that, after blowing the aux port the bike refused to move anymore but i could still charge with the onboard charger.

Damn. Well, when it happened to me my 2013 was okay. Burton's wiring diagram for 2013 concurs, but I can't say whether the design changed. People playing with chargers should anticipate dealing with this some day.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

FYI, per http://diginow.it/super-charger-for-zero-motorcycle.php , the digiNow supercharger limits power through the aux charge port to 7.6kW just to avoid blowing that fuse. It does have a slow (~1hr?) setting that is effectively below 100A but I can't get anyone to put a number on that, or whoever knows the number isn't talking.

If the aux charge port fuse blows, the bike will still work and the onboard charger will charge, but the aux charge port will be disconnected.

Hmm just 400 watts difference with mine, close but should be OK.

I will do extensive testing at home so if the fuse pops there its OK.

Have a backup plan!

[alexanderfoti]

FYI, per http://diginow.it/super-charger-for-zero-motorcycle.php , the digiNow supercharger limits power through the aux charge port to 7.6kW just to avoid blowing that fuse. It does have a slow (~1hr?) setting that is effectively below 100A but I can't get anyone to put a number on that, or whoever knows the number isn't talking.

If the aux charge port fuse blows, the bike will still work and the onboard charger will charge, but the aux charge port will be disconnected.

Hmm just 400 watts difference with mine, close but should be OK.

I will do extensive testing at home so if the fuse pops there its OK.

Have a backup plan!

I understand that the fuse is not easily accessible by the roadside, is that right?

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I understand that the fuse is not easily accessible by the roadside, is that right?

It's kind of recessed, and Zero doesn't want customers replacing them; I think the whole circuit somehow is a single part number to order and the fuse spec is not listed. This is what I mean by a plan, though: try to find it (10 minutes after the contactor opens before removing) so you have an idea before you have to do it "in anger". If possible, look for identifying ratings or text and document it for us/others.

I will double check on my DSR but the 2013 models had it in a more accessible location than following years.

[alexanderfoti]

Hmm I will take a look at the fuse when I get a chance then.

The Official manual says 100 amp fuse, the unofficial manual says 80 amps. I wonder which Is correct.

I will note down the fuse type as well for other on here.

[remmie]

These guys have seen (and blown) the 100A fuse. No clear picture of the markings though. Just that it has M6 eye connections and that it is shrink wrapped.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=507362&postcount=25#/forumsite/20977/topics/124073?page=3&postid=507362

[alexanderfoti]

These guys have seen (and blown) the 100A fuse. No clear picture of the markings though. Just that it has M6 eye connections and that it is shrink wrapped.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=507362&postcount=25#/forumsite/20977/topics/124073?page=3&postid=507362

Looks like it might be a midi fuse - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-100-amp-MIDI-FUSE-High-Current-100a-Blue-We-stock-all-sizes-and-Fuse-Holder-/121209181323

[MrDude_1]

Hmm I will take a look at the fuse when I get a chance then.

The Official manual says 100 amp fuse, the unofficial manual says 80 amps. I wonder which Is correct.

I will note down the fuse type as well for other on here.

They both show a 100 amp fuse.
The manual just notes that a sustained 80A current will cause the fuse to blow.

It probably needs to be made clearer though.

[alexanderfoti]

Hmm I will take a look at the fuse when I get a chance then.

The Official manual says 100 amp fuse, the unofficial manual says 80 amps. I wonder which Is correct.

I will note down the fuse type as well for other on here.

They both show a 100 amp fuse.
The manual just notes that a sustained 80A current will cause the fuse to blow.

It probably needs to be made clearer though.

Sorry, yes your right, I miss interpreted it.

[Lecram]

These guys have seen (and blown) the 100A fuse. No clear picture of the markings though. Just that it has M6 eye connections and that it is shrink wrapped.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=507362&postcount=25#/forumsite/20977/topics/124073?page=3&postid=507362

Looks like it might be a midi fuse - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-100-amp-MIDI-FUSE-High-Current-100a-Blue-We-stock-all-sizes-and-Fuse-Holder-/121209181323

So, why not replacing it for a 125/150A fuse as the DigiNow chargers charge at higher amps as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-600VAC-300VDC-Class-Acting/dp/B00JV3HSQG/ref=pd_day0_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41qLeStGhvL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR294%2C320_&refRID=G8Z8P9X4MZEXHRPMMSYJ