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Messages - emotofreak

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1
Pics and Vids / Re: Zero SRSuperbike
« on: June 04, 2020, 10:27:42 AM »
Looks freaking great! Any chance you can do some actual Wh/mile testing and freeway speed?

Thanks!

2
Buy Sell Trade / 2015 FX (like new, only 925 miles odo) - $5200
« on: August 15, 2019, 05:11:33 AM »
This is a like new 2015 FX Zero Motorcycle! Everything works, needs nothing. Just registered, clean title, perfect summer transportation!

Listed on craigslist with pics!

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/d/freedom-zero-motorcycles-2015-fx-like/6956824365.html

3
General Discussion / Re: Local dealer won't dyno a Zero
« on: March 25, 2014, 08:38:20 AM »
I've dyno'd Zero's tons of times (I ran R&D for Zero for the last 4 years). There is no good reason they can't dyno it for you. They may not be able to give you engine RPM or torque from the built in functions. But they should be able to give you speed, HP, and torque at-the-wheel, and you can back out the rest from there. One interesting item... "corrected power". All major Dyno's that I am aware of have built in SAE/ECE/DIN/JIS "corrected power" based on temp, humidity and baro pressure at a very low level in the system. It was actually quite a pain to remove it in our test dyno. The good news is you bike will dyno higher than it should :) And the higher and hotter you test the more power the dyno will claim for your bike ;p

This has always resulted in decent, if not optimistic, dyno numbers for electric vehicles.  I have yet to see a dyno test from a reputable organization properly account for (or remove) the "power correction" ingrained in all dynos. And surprisingly, it wouldn't appear any of the manufacturers are chomping at the bit to set them straight ;p

4
I think you pretty much have to go parallel hybrid to keep the efficiency up during cruise. Otherwise you're just tossing something like 20% of your energy away. So you either have to clutch between ice and electric drivetrain on a single prop, or run 2 completely independent drive systems, in a push-pull config for example. Or just live with the loss of efficiency in a serial system :)

For inspiration...



Claims 1800ft/min climb :)

5
General Discussion / Re: Custom battery pack for a 2014 Zero SR
« on: November 28, 2013, 12:37:58 AM »
The bike will not enable with a Zero charger attached. This is for safety so you can't drive off with a charger still plugged in.

6
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Regen Settings
« on: October 30, 2013, 05:39:12 AM »
I was only adding the data point, that even with just minimal braking required, the regen proved itself superior to freewheeling with empirical data. I was not arguing the original statement, in fact, I explicitly agreed "in theory". I guess what I'm getting at is, is there a scenario, that can be performed in the real-world, in realistic conditions, where turning off the bike and freewheeling would actually give you better range? You would have to know, ahead of time, that you will not need the brakes or throttle. It seems that is a small corner case, and one for which I have not seen empirical evidence to support. Again, I agree "in theory" a freewheeling bike should use less energy in a very narrow set of circumstances. I'm just not sure all those criteria will ever be met in the "real world". Basically if we go for a ride, and you turn your regen on/off all you want, and if I am just pacing you in eco mode, I will still probably go further.

Ultimately, I know we are all interested in getting the most efficiency out of our vehicles, and I am just as curious as the rest of you as to what the best possible drive profile and strategy is. My best guess at this point, as supported by all the data I have access to, is no-regen-freewheeling will provide little, if any, perceptible increase in range in any realistic scenario. While effective management of regen can provide up to 6-8% increase in range in an optimum duty cycle. Possibly clutching the motor/drivetrain out of the loop entirely would make such a strategy more effective, but I think we are reaching the point of diminishing returns here.

Just thinking out loud.

7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Regen Settings
« on: October 29, 2013, 05:52:17 AM »

As I have stated before: When slowing is not needed, the most efficient way to go down a slope is free coasting with no regen. When slowing is needed then use regen for that.

Trikester

In theory I agree with this statement. However, a recent empirical test generated an interesting data point. My buddy and I were both on '13 Zero S's, we both started at the top of a long (~3miles), fairly steep hill, that had a 1/2 dozen or so corners that required minimal braking. He turned his bike off and coasted the entire distance, using the brakes when necessary but otherwise staying at or above the speed limit the whole way. I paced him, using as little throttle as I could, as little brake as I could, and allowing the bike to regen as much as possible.

The end result? I gained 1% SOC. He obviously ended the same as he started. The moral to the story? It is at least sometimes better to regen than purely freewheel.

I just love watching the SOC go "UP" while riding. That will never get old...

8
General Discussion / Re: Aero and Marginal Gains
« on: October 24, 2013, 02:34:20 AM »
Which fairings from the airspeed website do you think would fit on a 2012 Zero S? 

Are there specific fittings or sizes I can look for?  Or can someone look at the fairings and list the ones that would fit on a Zero?  I'm legitimately interested in putting an aerodynamic fairing on my bike, but only if it will help my road trip efforts.

Lots of good ones in the "vintage bikes fairings" section on the aerotech website. You know, 'cause back in the day fairings actually had to be functional, not just for show. I love how we're seeing a renaissance to "old aero tech" with modern EV's. All those old swoopy cars and dustbin fairings weren't styled to be "retro", they were actually quite effective.

I picked the TR4 fairing because it's fairly flat sided and wide at the bottom. It fits any of the Zero's just fine. Though maybe you could request they don't cut out the big exhaust clearance hole in the bottom. Unfortunately I don't have any real power data with this fairing, yet, but I'd guess the reduction in power to maintain 70mph is in the 10-20% range. Maybe even better.

9
General Discussion / Re: Aero and Marginal Gains
« on: October 24, 2013, 02:29:12 AM »
It's probably below the noise floor of different throttle positions, changes in elevation, varying wind and crosswinds.

Here's my old guess at punching parameters for the 2012 bike into ecomodder's calculator.

At 70 mph the estimate is 10.8% power used to overcome rolling resistance (based upon weight and drivetrain losses), the rest is used to fight the wind.

Total power estimate is 13.5 kW from the motor controller to maintain speed.

Adding 100 pounds increases power requirements by about 2% to 13.8 kW.

As usual, your analysis sounds spot-on.

10
General Discussion / Re: Aero and Marginal Gains
« on: October 24, 2013, 01:03:01 AM »
With approx 100lb weight difference on the same bike, I could perceive no difference in power to sustain 70mph as reported via the Zero App. I agree there must be some small change, but I think it's less than 1-2%.

I have a TRI4 fairing just begging to go on a Zero.



Actually, I already had it on a zero. Now it needs to go on a "new" zero.


11
General Discussion / Re: Aero and Marginal Gains
« on: October 23, 2013, 06:29:05 AM »
Couple facts for you to munch on...

1. Body position is the #1 factor in determining aero drag on most bikes. On a stock 2013 Zero S, I use about 15kw at 70mph in "standard" riding position. In a full-tuck in my synthetic (bulky) jacket and pants I can get it down to about 11kw. Biff can get under 10kw in his leather jacket. Oh yeah, he's skinnier, by a lot, than me :) It's not comfy, but it can be done, and directly translates into about 1/3 more range at highway speeds. This can all be verified by anyone with a 13 bike and the app on a handlebar mount. It's kind of fun to play around with body position and such and watch your power change real-time. Don't crash while watching your app though :)

2. As above, leathers have better aero.

3. Weight makes almost no perceivable difference in straight/level power consumption. Sorry but it's true. Now being "wider" does make a difference :)

4. You can buy/install after-market windshields and fairings. Lots of cool stuff on http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/

5. In general, filling in all cracks/crevices and trying to make one smooth monolithic surface will translate to better aero.

6. Disc wheels. Might gain a few percent by covering the wheel spokes with solid disks. Might also make the bike "spooky" in cross-winds.

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Chain or Belt for the FX
« on: September 20, 2013, 02:54:20 PM »
Oh, right, and a full tool kit.  :P

13
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Chain or Belt for the FX
« on: September 19, 2013, 11:46:22 PM »
I have ridden both. Here's my 2 cents.

If you are going to ride aggressively, perform any significant jumping, or go far from civilization, you want the chain. But it is definitely noisy.

If you are going to just cruise, the belt is fine. But even during a mellow ride you can suck in a branch or debris and derail or break your belt. Take a spare, especially if you are going to be far from civilization.

Personally, I'm not that aggressive a rider, and the experience offered by a silent bike with the belt drive is just surreal. But if I was going out solo, far from anyone/anything else, I might consider a chain.

14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Gas trike becoming 2013 Zero electric!
« on: September 12, 2013, 12:50:54 AM »
Love it!

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Zero 2014 Model Speculations
« on: August 14, 2013, 12:45:08 AM »
The amount of current you pull out of the battery (battery amps), is almost never the same as the amount of current being delivered to the motor (motor amps), this only occurs at true max power. Think of it this way. If you want 1kw of power, and you have a 100v battery, this means you only pull 10amps out of the battery. To supply this 1kw to the motor you must apply some amount of voltage, which is a ratio of RPM to voltage. For example, to spin the motor at 1/10th it's max RPM, you apply 1/10th max voltage, actually you need a bit more but this is close enough for approximation. This means to spin the motor at 1/10 max rpm, you apply approx 10 volts at 100amps, to get your 1kw of output. It also means, if your motor and controller are up to it, you could push 1000amps into your motor at 1v, while only pulling 10amps out of you 100v battery.

Hope this makes sense.

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