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Yes, you are right, but maybe there would a chance to get them interested in testing Energica's batteries in their 'Early Access' program.

@Aaron: Thanks a lot for that valuable input!
You are probably right that the wobbly feel comes from pushing too hard when accelerating out of the corner. I will have to learn to handle the throttle more smoothly!

So, for the time being, I will keep to that 2.5-36 front bc it feels pretty good and tinker a bit around with rear tire pressure to find my personal sweet spot.


@Phaedrus: Thx for your comment, I understand that you more or less run the same pressure on track as Aaron. I booked a racetrack training in July and will remember that!

The Sevcon technically doesn't need the CAN link to operate, but the way Zero has it setup, it does. Among other things, the MBB waits until it sees the throttle opened to about a volt as transmitted by the Sevcon over CAN. Only then does the MBB set the Forward input on the Sevcon so it'll move. And even before that, when you first key on, the MBB (or probably actually the BMS since it is the one with the control) waits for the signal from the Sevcon via CAN that it is ready to close the main contactor. The contactor output from the Sevcon is setup as a transmitted PDO that the BMS awaits before it actually closes the contactor. That's how it know the precharge in the controller is done so as not to blow the capacitors in the motor controller when closing the main contactor.

Now, to address your problem, assuming you have checked the obvious, i.e. all the physical connections from the Sevcon to the MBB, get yourself some aluminum foil tape like is often used on AC ductwork and wrap your wiring with it. CAN is very tolerance of noise, but the wires are running alongside cables carrying pulse-width modulated signals at amplitudes of hundreds of amps. I'd try that before I started looking at replacing the motor controller.

I am sorry to hear this experience... again. This problem will show a lot through next years. I am having magic charge and +15% loss in battery range after 4 years of my DSR 2020, and Zero refuses to change the battery under warranty because they say the logs show >=80% in battery capacity yet, which can be true, but I am pretty sure the battery will die sooner or later after the warranty period (that's what they want).

I am predicting a massive cases of users complaining about EV batteries in the next 5 years. I will have to ask the justice to help me in case this happens to my bike after the 5 years warranty period. I did even purchase the extended warranty program for the whole bike (+1k$) and they still refuses to help me.

I am willing to pay 30-50% of the price for a full new battery replacement if it dies after the warranty period, but it does not look like that this will be offerered to me...

With these numbers... no one should be buying an EV with less than 8-10 years of warranty. I will sell mine while it is under warranty and then what... back to petrol? (no please)

Good luck and sorry for your lost

Thanx gt13013 and doctorbrass for your help..,

Completely understand how to try to fix my issue but I’m a fisherman not an enginer…😉
I don’t feel like trying it out even if I already opened my motor to replace the bearings…
I wish I found someone like you doctorbrass out here on the other side of the Atlantic…
I contacted many firms but didn’t find anyone able to try it yet…,
Sent email to zero and to my contact working for zero but they left me down… maybe for them this bike is too old …
Anyway I will keep your process to share it when I find someone with the skills…
Thank you guys
Bike still running but not far and not too fast… frustrating leave with a 500cc for 10km then a 125cc for 20km and come back home on a 50cc for the remaining range about 20km more…

Quote from: Specter on May 22, 2024, 01:51:57 AM

IM running about 29.5 in the back  that goes up to about 33 ish when track hot. I like it there, I dont see any problems with my rear end.
 It was recommended to try a bit lower, like 27 but it grows a bit much like 5 to 6 psi,  and I think is a bit squirrely in hard corners.
So, basically right there 29 to 30 is the sweet spot cold.  I get a nice even wear on the tire, it looks really good actually and they last a decent amount of time too.

Im running 31 to 32 in the front, it'll hit 36 ish in the front when hot.  You have to remember, when it comes time to shed speed, especially if you have to do so quickly, that battery is a LOT of weight transfer forward in a hurry, you want that front loaded up to hold it.  Not to mention if you are running a hard regen mode, you can probably easily transfer half your body weight or more to the handlebars as well, which will be picked up by the front.

Thank you for sharing this!
Looking at the numbers I am guessing these are for your EGO in racetrack setting. Surely, on the street with your Ribelle you choose a higher pressure?

I had a (street) one-on-one training last week and the instructor encouraged me to reduce the tire pressure from the 2.9 bar / 42 PSI (Energica spec).
Currently I am trying 2.7/39 rear and 2.5/36 front. Still running on the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III.

Especially the reduction in front tire pressure improved the handling of the bike so much!
The reduction on the rear tire feels a bit wobbly sometimes, especially when accelerating after the apex of the curve. IDK if this is a bad thing.

FWIW, For my Ego RS with the stock Rosso III's on the track, I run 32 psi cold up front and 29 psi cold rear.  That has given me good grip, handling and wear and has worked well in sessions with California Superbike School.  On the street I just run the book-recommended 42/42 - but I don't push it on the street.

They didn't tell me what model it's based on. They're pretty responsive on Email, though. hello@windriderseatcovers.com

The cover fits, but it takes a little more force to get the seat to latch. There hasn't been a heavy rain since I've gotten it. I will say I can definitely feel the air flow under my butt which I'll have to figure out how to mitigate when winter comes around.

Even the Ribelle, it weighs about the same.   The handling WILL be a bit different, because your seating is different, handlebars are different etc. but still overall the weight is there on the tires.

36 is a good number to be in front, (hot), that equates to about 31-32 cold,  though Ive gotten away with 30 cold up front as well.  Ive noticed that too much psi up front and it wants to get jumpy or move around a bit.  You want to find that spot where when you brake, the tire is compressing and fully engaging, yet not being smashed like a pancake, or on the other hand, too hard not compressing enough and you have less of a contact patch, now it may want to slide around a bit.

YES !!! it is amazing on how as little as a pound or two can make a HUGE difference in the handling up front.  Also being your street bike, too hard up there, it picks up ALL the little bumps and dimples in the street and that can give you issues with TC and Braking, and Regen, open up a whole slew of other issues to muddy up the worldview.

The wobbly on the rear, after a corner and accel.  Possibly you are getting a little light in the front end?  Ive done this a few times, come out of a turn and hit the throttle a bit hard and start dancing up front.  Not necessarily a back end issue, but a hot hand issue you are overdriving your front a bit   Abruptness can cause this too, you always want to go easy on / easy off especially when it comes to such a high HP / Torque bike as the Energica,  coming coming coming. ok here it is HAMMER IT!!! around a corner can get you in trouble.  Sometimes I may talk this way in my write ups, or appear to, but in reality, you have to sliiiiiide into the throttle.  Electric does not have power bands, gears and all that inconvenient limiting stuff that ICErs do, you got everything you have, available to you RIGHT NOW! if you so choose, so have to use a little more discipline.

Another thing to keep in mind, , ... street riding, really does NOT warm up tires much, so depending on how long / outside temps bla bla, you may also want to adjust your tire PSI's up a bit before the trip, because if you are just idling along at 50 mph you may never reach the temp to bring the inner psi up to where you want it.

Tire pressures are important,  and yes even a pound or do can make a BIG difference on how the bike handles.  Find what works best for YOU and YOUR bike and go from there.  Do you weigh 150 or 350?  THAT makes a difference too.

Tires don't warm up very much at low speeds, on wet roads, cold days.  Weaving back and forth is NOT going to warm your tires up for you.  Road riding, unless you are doing a LOT of hard accel for the rear tires, and hard braking for the fronts typically is not going to warm your wheels up a ton, so may need to bump the PSI a pound or two from what you considered normal.

The Energica is a HEAVY bike, it needs a LOT of support up front, that battery pack is a huge amount of weight being shoved forward on a stop, especially a harder one. 

In the summer Ill run them a bit lower pressures, in florida YES that tire WILL warm up a bit,  black on black in the baking sun, yah itll warm up alright.

Aaron

Here in Germany a company is trying to establish themself as something like a certifying body for used EV batteries. It's name is Aviloo Battery Diagnostics. They measure the charge performance and deduct from that the SOH.

Interesting. However, they only seem to offer their diagnostics for cars so far.
https://aviloo.com/battery-test.html

Nice, those look pretty decent.  My last bustoff the handle got smashed into the sand as the bike went over and it landed on it.  Being able to fold back is a really good feature but what about being smashed axially?  Might not do so well there.  Still though that'd be good when maneuvering in tight places, like the garage, lining bikes up and getting a wee bit close to a wall or another bike etc.

Thank you for that post.
Aaron