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Topics - manlytom

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Loving the country roads in Australia and have ridden gravel and many water crossings with Livewire with no issue. At the end one caught me out as it had to many warning signs. Going to slowly through a slippery water crossing had me just fall over with the bike. Enough the sreiourslu bend the handlebars, make the front brake mushy and scratch some other bits and pieces.
Aside of having the cosmetics addressed, I want to get back riding ASAP. Seems it it is hard to get either original or potentially better after market bars for the LW.
Will enventually source all the other bits but has anyone a generic product number so I can order either HD or after market replacement?

Harley dealer in Sydney not helpful at all.....

2
Harley LiveWire Forum / Can we charge the LW on opened up Tesla SCs?
« on: February 05, 2023, 01:39:28 PM »
Hi all,
as mentioned in my questions abotu better AC charging options we have now a bunch of great Tesla superchargers opened up to non Teslas in Australia. Has this happened anywhere else, and if so, has anyone charged their LW successfully?
Reason I am asking, the opened Tesla SCs are fairly remote for us and if they do not charge the LW, you r fxxxked.
anyone any experience?
I guess the Tesla tech and settings will be pretty much standard around the world. Just not sure if they like us bikers plugging in....

3
Harley LiveWire Forum / Improved AC charging options - 1.5kW -> 15kW?
« on: January 06, 2023, 08:16:08 AM »
Bringing this topic up again in the hope HD reads soem of this and factors it into their product development, or aftermarket "customising" options are emerging.

Loving the country road rides with my LW1, however, road options are limited to CCS2 fast chargers and slow overnight chargers along the way. Looking for options to upgrade the sloowww onboard charger with an adjustable AC charger allowing for slow overnight and ramping up to faster AC charging. At least 3kW but the more the better. Technically replacing the current onboard charger with a similar sized unit, replacing any fuses and some cables or so, might still fit under the tank. 

Any thoughts? Anyone working on this or is HD just to hard to "customise"?

4
Hi all

looking at a roadtrip of about 450km each way (about 300miles or so). I can spread over one long day or two days with an overnight stop.
I do not have the additional tank on my standard 2014S 11.4 and am considering to utilise two chargers instead. The most common outlets in Oz are 240V / 10A which should allow me to run onboard plus second charger.

Would consider a more DIY approach to the charger (one..) but tight for time hence going with the standard Zero solution. Trip is April 10! Therefore trying to source charger / Y Connector quickly. Anyone having one for sale? Or any alternative, easy to set up ideas?

cheers

5
Zero has some great specials on the S and DS 2014 stock in Oz now. this makes these bikes quite a bit more attractively priced than the SR. would you go for it or pay the big bucks for a SR?

An S 11.4 is A$19,990 vs a SR 11.4 at A424,490. Giving that difference and that the bikes are the same but for the motor and controller seems an interesting option. Range etc. same. just a slightly less nippy bike.

more details:
ZERO MOTORCYCLES 'Early Adoptors Rebate'
ZERO S 8.5
$20,490 RIDE AWAY
$16,990 RIDE AWAY WITH EA REBATE

ZERO S 11.4
$23,490 RIDE AWAY
$19,990 RIDE AWAY WITH EA REBATE

ZERO DS 11.4
$23,490 RIDE AWAY
$19,990 RIDE AWAY WITH EA REBATE

ZERO FX 5.7
$19,490 RIDE AWAY
$15,990 RIDE AWAY WITH EA REBATE

6
All
We have electrics now all over the globe. The forum helped me already to locate nigezero up the road and within range to get us to organise some rides. The map link below is a great way to help us get together even better

http://www.evfr.net

Put yourself on the map!

 ;) Sydney shows currently only two riders. Danny on his super championship winning electric and my humble Zero. There are more!  List yourself.

7
Electric Motorcycle News / Harley considering an Electric !?
« on: September 05, 2013, 03:57:41 PM »
Harley considering an Electric !?

As a Harley rider (ex) I met with some senior people of HD showing them my Zero. I got interesting feedback. The young product development guy was very interested, the old one did not want to go near my "monster". The MD simple asked: "would you sell your Harley?" "Is it more than a utility to you ?" Obviously he was relating to the community spirit that HD lives from.
Anyway, the rest is history for me.... ;) A rebel without the noise...

http://pursuitist.com/harley-davidson-building-entry-level-motorcycle-considering-electric-model/

8
After swapping pretty much all other parts around (motor, MBB, controller) I am now aiming to replace the contactor to fix the issues I am having.
As the contactor is in the back of the battery it seems one has to take out motor, controller, charger and the whole battery. Then disassemble the battery to finally get to the contactor.

I know some of you have done this and would like to know how you went about it. Any tricks/learnings ?
Zero has sent the replacement contactor as well. So I am ready to for it. Might need some bike tools or lifts or something.

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2012 and older / 2011 contactor problem?
« on: August 03, 2013, 02:27:36 PM »
Hi all

After all I got my 2011 S running again! That is for a week only. Back to same error that controller goes right into red LED and motor turns only a little. Now and then I get the contactor error message on the dash as well. Motor turns a bit and some sort of arcing sound can be heard. It came up again as I was tidying up the speed sensor. Have a 2010 motor in 2011 so it is a difficult fit.

For the riders inhere with contactor error was this the case?  Or a reset of MBB to recognise all sensor properly?


10
Hi all,

being just shy of 7000km I run into problems with my 2011S again. The first time around it was diagnosed with Zero support that the motor was not good. brushes somewhat strongly worn and in fact a replacement of the motor seemed to fix it. Within that we tried the controller and throttle.
Now about 3000km riding bike stopped again. Looked at the brushes and they had uneven wear and did not look to great. Zero sent me a new brush holder and brushes (matched for same resistance).
Replaced it and still no good !
So what happens is:

switch on bike, contactor switches on with a "clack" and no warning => good
controller (alltrax) LED blinks once => 0-5k throttle => OK then turns green
twist throttle with bike rear wheel raised => wheel turns slowly not gathering any real speed
controller LED goes yellow
check pack voltage on alltrax btw B+ and B- => 57.5V => OK
check voltage range btw B- and alltrax Pin2 (should be 0 to 5V closed to open) => is 0 to 3.14V
check throttle => 0 to 5K resistance, relatively linear (first 60% or so) , compare to another throttle same resistance and voltage range ==> believe throttles are OK (pls comment)
next check:
check voltage btw B+ and M- (should be throttle closed 0V and open pack voltage):
throttle closed; controller light green; voltage 0 => Ok
throttle open; controller light yellow; voltage 0.3V or so. no real change !!?? WTF?,  motor spins slowly   

further check with motor leads disconnected:
throttle closed; controller light green; voltage 26.2V => ???? definitely not 0
throttle open; controller light yellow; voltage 57.5V => pack voltage => as it should be.

used another controller with SAME results. Used another throttle with same results. Used another brush holder/brushes with same results. Note that replacement parts had been used before - so all could even be bad i any combination.  :(

seems to point to the MBB and guide shows "MBB continuity test". However do not have these docs.   

- so a long story - still no working bike. any ideas left ? welcome them. thx



11
now, next week I am again in Hong Kong. always meant to see the BRammo bikes that they had sitting with a distributor for a couple of years now.
and today, Zero Germany (all in German) shares that they landed a big fleet deal. in fact the biggest Zero fleet deal in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong went through a selection/tendering process. Would love to know how participated. Considering the strong chinese EV market - but then the selection really shows that not many are up to quality and performance.

Congrats Zero.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151612246854932.1073741826.125511504931&type=1
(in German)

now u don't hear them coming in Hong Kong. guess need to be careful or get one as well while over. For anyone that knows Hong Kong - it had has amazing hills - these I want to see a Zero take - and the remaining charge ....

edit - moved to "news" as is more appropriate place.

PS: are these pics 2012 or 2013 models ?

12
now, next week I am again in Hong Kong. always meant to see the BRammo bikes that they had sitting with a distributor for a couple of years now.
and today, Zero Germany (all in German) shares that they landed a big fleet deal. in fact the biggest Zero fleet deal in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong went through a selection/tendering process. Would love to know how participated. Considering the strong chinese EV market - but then the selection really shows that not many are up to quality and performance.

Congrats Zero.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151612246854932.1073741826.125511504931&type=1
(in German)

now u don't hear them coming in Hong Kong. guess need to be careful or get one as well while over. For anyone that knows Hong Kong - it had has amazing hills - these I want to see a Zero take - and the remaining charge ....

edit - moved to "news" as is more appropriate place.

13
hi all and Harlan

so what would be the specs of a supped up with the sevcon6 controller 2012 bike? In terms of performance and range. does it reduce the range a lot or is still reasonable ?

Obviously wondering if this mod is within mods allowed to ride it on the public roads ?

14
guess this one could get a major boost to install the Zero drive trains ! impressive to print a car/bike !

http://www.wired.com/autopia/2013/02/3d-printed-car/

15
Hi all,
me again, still seem to be running into problems with the Agni motor after every couple of k miles. Replaced the motor about 6 months ago with similar originating symptoms. In the hope that other rides have experienced similar and know more of the root cause I posting this again. here it goes:

1. recently the bike started again to have the motor growl and not turn properly when I am trying to start my ride. At this stage turning the key on/off seems to reset the bike enough at this stage to get the motor to turn better.
2. while riding the motor seems to turn a bit heavier at occasions and seems to get as well warmer as after every ride, even slower ones the fan kicks in and runs for a couple minutes when I stop the bike.
3. while accelerating at mid speed the motor cuts out. Previously replaced throttle for this or suspecting controller having a software hickup with a current spike.

Conditions as these problems develop:
- replaced motor with new one and all seemed fine (Zero service provided good overseas support)
- bike seems to run suberb, fast, nippy, fun before this starts to happen again
- It is summer down under and average temps are up compared to winter
- motor has done about 1500miles

I heard of occasions that the Agni motor blocked altogether on MX bikes as described below. Maybe I am need of a motor overhaul ??

here the info:
Situation:
First motor was blocked after a some hours of racing.
The second motor was already blocked within the first half hour of run time.

Analysis and repair:
On both motors the air gap between rotor and the magnets on the brush side was closed. Thus the rotors touched the magnets and were blocked

After demounting of the rotor it was visually and electrically checked. All solder joints were visually in good condition and also the measured resistance values were those of a new rotor. The rotor did not show any indications of being overheated.
Demounting of the rotor showed that the central screw was not properly tight. Due to a very tight fitting of shaft and rotor the required torque to unscrew the rotor remained high.
All parts were cleaned and remainders of the previously used bolt adhesive were removed. The rotor was mounted again and the screw was fixed by bolt adhesive.

Assumed reason for the fault:

Each acceleration activity will put force on the rotor and the central screw. Due to the mounting position of the motor in the ZERO chassis and as a consequence the rotation direction of the rotor in combination with the right handed thread of the joint and shaft this force will be able to loosen the screw if it is not fixed strongly enough.

With a left handed thread the force would help to keep the rotor in place.

Proposed corrective actions:

Solution 1:  „quick and cheap“
Tighten the central screw of the blocked rotor until the rotor is firmly pressed against the edge guide of the shaft again an the rotor is aligned in the center between the magnets.
Check frequently to ensure that the rotor is still correctly fixed.


Solution 2:  „moderate effort“
Dismount the rotor and carefully clean all parts and central screw
Mount the rotor again
Tighten the screw firmly and fix it with bolt adhesive


Solution 3:  „maximum effort“
Dismount the rotor and shaft and carefully clean all parts.
Change shaft and central screw to left handed thread.
Tighten the screw firmly and fix it by bolt adhesive.


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