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 1 
 on: Today at 05:54:25 AM 
Started by Specter - Last post by Specter
WHY?
you have full control of your regen by how much you let off your throttle already.  Turn your regen to max and then use your throttle lever to control how much of it actually kicks in.   Otherwise, imo, it's just reinventing the wheel and another input to have to manage.

Aaron

 2 
 on: Today at 02:01:32 AM 
Started by FlyMig - Last post by toothless
accept that shifting things to lift the seat and adjusting the load after charging is a bit of a nuisance.

I've got a huge bag from rhinowalk on mine, and the shifting is definitely annoying and you just gotta accept it is definitely true. I can unclip the bag though so at least it's pretty easy to do that.


 3 
 on: Today at 01:55:33 AM 
Started by Specter - Last post by toothless
Hello,

I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.

best regards
DerKrawallkeks


Yes it should work use a quadrilateral shift circuit followed by a flip/flop coupled to a Schmidt trigger on the output.

I know everyone finds this funny but seriously though, any way we can get a regen lever? Would energica themselves ever do it for the people?  :'(

 4 
 on: Today at 01:10:16 AM 
Started by MrMogensen - Last post by Stonewolf
Haha, actually one of the things do and don't miss is my VFR trying to roast me alive, it was nice in winter but in summer trying to thread through completely jammed traffic on the way home from a tour ...

 5 
 on: June 01, 2024, 11:24:58 PM 
Started by MrMogensen - Last post by Specter
Ive ridden in numerous rides with groups of individuals.  Mostly Harleys, but anyways.  when we get into heavier traffic, or even a long light, there is always at least one of them, pulling off to the side because their bike is overheating, turning the thing off, they are sweating like pigs, (which I find very amusing because I always ride fully geared up and am not sweating much at all TBH), the hogs on the  back of their hogs are bitching because they are so hot from the air being blown up by the bike, etc etc :D :D

I have a little USB powered fan, I suction cup it to the windshield and plug it in the USB port and leave it running.  I just smile and say, you want to borrow this?  I don't need it, my bike runs cool.  Then there are the ones where the bike is bouncing and jumping and jittering all over the place like a dildo on overdrive, I just don't get that.  WHAT is appealing about that?  I can't think of anyone who enjoys being bounced all over the place.  Now throw radiator heat and exhaust fumes on top of that...along with loud obnoxious pipes and scratchy music being run thru shitty speakers because they got torn up by being bounced around so much.  E bikes practically can sell themselves.

Aaron

 6 
 on: June 01, 2024, 10:55:42 PM 
Started by victor6.7y - Last post by TheRan
I would imagine it's probably the tip over sensor, when the bike is powered on it will run a test to make sure things are as they should be so if the sensor isn't reading what it expects then it would give that error. Any number of things could give the same code.

 7 
 on: June 01, 2024, 10:14:56 PM 
Started by PaulZero - Last post by victor6.7y
I bought a spare belt, and luckaly I did; cuz my belt broke at 16000km  :(
But with the bike at home it was doable to change it myself; even on a gen2 bike

 8 
 on: June 01, 2024, 09:52:36 PM 
Started by victor6.7y - Last post by victor6.7y
So I found a possible definition for Error code 23.
I wanted to submit it to: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Error_Codes#23 but I am not sure how.

I found out that if your MBB is not in its normal position; when the bike is turned on; it will give an error 23; see the picture  :)
You will still be able to drive the bike; but you will see the error 23 and dash error blinking.
This is propably not the only way to get a error 23.


 9 
 on: June 01, 2024, 08:44:06 PM 
Started by PaulZero - Last post by princec
Gen3 Zeros don't require anything complex at all - you just need to unclip the brake light wire and undo the mudguard and undo the adjuster bolts (actually not sure undoing the adjuster bolts will do anything in this situation as you won't be undoing the axle nut). Tools required is a torx t-bar. The belt can then just be looped on without loosening or removing anything else... provided you can spin the wheel freely. It's a bit more of a faff if you're by the side of the road without a centrestand or paddock stand handy - you'll need an assistant to wheel the bike forward.

That gets you home, and then you can faff about undoing the axle and properly adjusting the tension and doing everything up with a torque wrench.

Cas :)

 10 
 on: June 01, 2024, 08:09:20 PM 
Started by PaulZero - Last post by DonTom
Don't all Zeroes require disconnecting the swingarm to replace the belt? And compressing the suspension using a ratchet strap?
By looking, the 3rd gen Zeros have plenty of room for the belt without disconnecting the swing arm.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

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